Thanks for the comments people. I am somewhat new to climbing. I have only done 1-pitch sport , but I am teaching myself how to set up toprope. The video seemed shady, but it's good to know for sure that this video is NOT to be trusted at all.
I have found "Climbing Anchors" by Craig Luebben to be an excellent source for learning redundant and equalized setups.
@gmartshopper The content isn't THAT bad. However you can't learn it in or teach it in under 2 minutes. No way. So you won't get any idea. The no knot thing certainly isn't to be trusted though.
The wrap 3 pull 2 should have the water knot facing the front....taking the knot out of the equation....because it is the weakest part of the webbing.
I would like to redact my comment. After having actually tried the bowline on a bight, I LOVE IT. It is fantastic! The bowline is a terribly dangerous knot and should never be used for climbing, however the bowline on a bight, WHEN TIED PROPERLY, is awesome. It ties just as quick as a figure 8 but it never cinches tight like the figure 8. In other words, you will never have to work to get a bowline on a bight out. Just make sure it is tied correctly and you are good to go!
THIS is why accident happen in climbing, there are so many safer and faster ways to anchor your self and dont make a vid if you have to refer to another vid to fill in the gaps
.
PLZ...... FLAG AS INAPPROPRIATE before someone DECKS!!!
First the bowline is a knot that no-one has advised you tie in climbing for 20 years. You can google why or contact a climbing assoc. Handy to know it. I can tie them one handed and remotely, but as your primary anchor knot? No, just NO!! Then a friction wrap? Seriously in a novice knot vid? Then some obscure wrap with no way of showing how to do it correctly.
@WorldClimb just to be the devils advocate, he is talking about a top rope situation. A bowline is more than strong enough and safe to use. The reason its not a preferred method anymore is because you can easily make an accidental slip knot while tying it. And the 3 wrap pull 2 is one of the strongest anchor systems you can devise. In fact it is one of the only accepted methods of tying around a tree for a rescue situation, because of the increased weight of an attendee during a rescue.
Should have emphasized the need for at least 2, preferably 3 anchor points, bowline is a good knot for some things but for climbing there are better options. Be kind to nature, pad any trees you are using as an anchor point. I know the trees on the cliff near where I live are slow growing 200-1000 year old trees that need protected. Expert Village sucks at getting things checked before posting.
They didn't include THE MOST IMPORTANT PART: When you set up a top rope you should use either 2 static ropes that go over the lip, or two pieces of webbing that go over the lip for redundancy. You should also use a rope pad(a pad made out of canvas or you can use the bottom side of a rug) if there is a sharp lip. The best way to cut a rope is from side to side movement. Stretching(up and down) movement is also bad of course, hence why you should use a static rope.
Concearning the wrap 3 pull 2: the water knot should be on the same side as where you are pulling, not on the back. (I personally back up water knots with a double fishermans on both sides.) Instead of using a water knot, a figure eight can hold 25% more and is way less likely to accidentally untie. Concearning the bowline and the tree wrapped around webbing: screw that just wrap the rope around the tree twice and tie a figure eight on a bite, clip a biner on that and connect it to the main line
I don't much like Expert Village. I've seen a lot of videos from them on different topics where it was clear that the person narrating the video had no experience at all in the field he was speaking about. This video here seemed okay, but then I've never tied a knot to a tree to descend from a clifftopf, so what do I know?
as said previously by others a bowline is fine to use so long as a stopper knot is tied and butted up snug to the knot of the bowline. and i know lots of people that can tie them correctly (me included) in theire sleep so incorrect tying is poppy cock, any knot can be tied wrong.
@Lvduggo69 a meion (french name) is the ony binner that can take a multi directional load. It's a proper 'D' shape and is done up with a spanner lol. check them out. stay safe guys
@bobs101 There are dozens of horror stories of bowlines coming apart when under a load. Why even risk it when the figure 8 is just as easy, and 50 times as safe?
@otto5000 Yeah, you are right, me personally I also always prefer figure of eight, but I never heard about anyone using bowline and having troubles with it either :).
i use webbing wrapped around once with a water knot
but always double it up so use 2 dif pieces of webbing at the same place and hook caraabiner to it and run rope through both one breaks, you fall maybe an inch and your fine.
agreed, he is correct. Bowlines are easier to tie incorrectly however when you are tired and so forth. I've climbed on bowlines for years. Those half hitches though, I personally wouldn't ever rock those...
A bowline will work (and is preferred by a lot of people I know) if tied correctly, and has the added benefit of being able to untie easily after being loaded (either the rope or the climber). Always back it up with a fishermans/safety as it is very easy to screw up a bowline. Just saying to cut the guy some slack, what he's saying is fine.
Check out the j-arms frictionless descender. Search for j-arms on You Tube. This device is unreal. There is nothing like on the market today. There is always an easier solution.
jesus, they need to do away with expert village before they kill someone
JRNY1605 3 weeks ago
Is there any videos that are reliable on youtue?
Forumdude09 5 months ago
Thanks for the comments people. I am somewhat new to climbing. I have only done 1-pitch sport , but I am teaching myself how to set up toprope. The video seemed shady, but it's good to know for sure that this video is NOT to be trusted at all.
I have found "Climbing Anchors" by Craig Luebben to be an excellent source for learning redundant and equalized setups.
gmartshopper 9 months ago
@gmartshopper The content isn't THAT bad. However you can't learn it in or teach it in under 2 minutes. No way. So you won't get any idea. The no knot thing certainly isn't to be trusted though.
F1X0R121 9 months ago
@F1X0R121 doesn't seem like it would be.
gmartshopper 9 months ago
Only the last one is safe , but only when you use at least two carabiners reversed i prefer to use three all opposite to each other.
Demagoc 9 months ago
Idiot village.
khroe 9 months ago
The wrap 3 pull 2 should have the water knot facing the front....taking the knot out of the equation....because it is the weakest part of the webbing.
LozanoSurvival 1 year ago 2
I would like to redact my comment. After having actually tried the bowline on a bight, I LOVE IT. It is fantastic! The bowline is a terribly dangerous knot and should never be used for climbing, however the bowline on a bight, WHEN TIED PROPERLY, is awesome. It ties just as quick as a figure 8 but it never cinches tight like the figure 8. In other words, you will never have to work to get a bowline on a bight out. Just make sure it is tied correctly and you are good to go!
otto5000 1 year ago
all i can say is "irresponsible"... hope nobody dies.
millertalbot 1 year ago
THIS is why accident happen in climbing, there are so many safer and faster ways to anchor your self and dont make a vid if you have to refer to another vid to fill in the gaps
.
PLZ...... FLAG AS INAPPROPRIATE before someone DECKS!!!
Mannie
ACMG graduate
therockclimber 1 year ago
Wow, take this video down. This is awful advice.
First the bowline is a knot that no-one has advised you tie in climbing for 20 years. You can google why or contact a climbing assoc. Handy to know it. I can tie them one handed and remotely, but as your primary anchor knot? No, just NO!! Then a friction wrap? Seriously in a novice knot vid? Then some obscure wrap with no way of showing how to do it correctly.
Dangerous vid. This guy is no expert teacher.
WorldClimb 1 year ago
@WorldClimb just to be the devils advocate, he is talking about a top rope situation. A bowline is more than strong enough and safe to use. The reason its not a preferred method anymore is because you can easily make an accidental slip knot while tying it. And the 3 wrap pull 2 is one of the strongest anchor systems you can devise. In fact it is one of the only accepted methods of tying around a tree for a rescue situation, because of the increased weight of an attendee during a rescue.
lupus1203 1 year ago
Should have emphasized the need for at least 2, preferably 3 anchor points, bowline is a good knot for some things but for climbing there are better options. Be kind to nature, pad any trees you are using as an anchor point. I know the trees on the cliff near where I live are slow growing 200-1000 year old trees that need protected. Expert Village sucks at getting things checked before posting.
norvoort 1 year ago
They didn't include THE MOST IMPORTANT PART: When you set up a top rope you should use either 2 static ropes that go over the lip, or two pieces of webbing that go over the lip for redundancy. You should also use a rope pad(a pad made out of canvas or you can use the bottom side of a rug) if there is a sharp lip. The best way to cut a rope is from side to side movement. Stretching(up and down) movement is also bad of course, hence why you should use a static rope.
bootlegbobby 2 years ago
Concearning the wrap 3 pull 2: the water knot should be on the same side as where you are pulling, not on the back. (I personally back up water knots with a double fishermans on both sides.) Instead of using a water knot, a figure eight can hold 25% more and is way less likely to accidentally untie. Concearning the bowline and the tree wrapped around webbing: screw that just wrap the rope around the tree twice and tie a figure eight on a bite, clip a biner on that and connect it to the main line
bootlegbobby 2 years ago
I don't much like Expert Village. I've seen a lot of videos from them on different topics where it was clear that the person narrating the video had no experience at all in the field he was speaking about. This video here seemed okay, but then I've never tied a knot to a tree to descend from a clifftopf, so what do I know?
CarlLewenski 2 years ago
as said previously by others a bowline is fine to use so long as a stopper knot is tied and butted up snug to the knot of the bowline. and i know lots of people that can tie them correctly (me included) in theire sleep so incorrect tying is poppy cock, any knot can be tied wrong.
@Lvduggo69 a meion (french name) is the ony binner that can take a multi directional load. It's a proper 'D' shape and is done up with a spanner lol. check them out. stay safe guys
davidcross30 2 years ago
Huh, what's the big deal here about the bowline?
It is safe enough if you know how to tie it correctly! Have you ever heard about bowline failed?? Heh, I haven't...
bobs101 2 years ago
@bobs101 There are dozens of horror stories of bowlines coming apart when under a load. Why even risk it when the figure 8 is just as easy, and 50 times as safe?
otto5000 1 year ago 10
@otto5000 Yeah, you are right, me personally I also always prefer figure of eight, but I never heard about anyone using bowline and having troubles with it either :).
bobs101 1 year ago
@otto5000 agreed, the bowline also reduces the breaking strength of a rope to 65% of max while i believe the figure-8 is 75%
mooseman0818 1 year ago
I never seen a multi directional beaner.
Is that a oxymoron. Jajajajajajajajajajaj !!!!
Lvduggo69 2 years ago
i use webbing wrapped around once with a water knot
but always double it up so use 2 dif pieces of webbing at the same place and hook caraabiner to it and run rope through both one breaks, you fall maybe an inch and your fine.
laxfreak2828 2 years ago
agreed, he is correct. Bowlines are easier to tie incorrectly however when you are tired and so forth. I've climbed on bowlines for years. Those half hitches though, I personally wouldn't ever rock those...
GaiaMind 2 years ago
A bowline will work (and is preferred by a lot of people I know) if tied correctly, and has the added benefit of being able to untie easily after being loaded (either the rope or the climber). Always back it up with a fishermans/safety as it is very easy to screw up a bowline. Just saying to cut the guy some slack, what he's saying is fine.
fresnosmooth2000 2 years ago
climbing rope and bowlins kill asshole
strandclimber 2 years ago
no way would i let you anchor me off with a farkin' bowline, shouldnt you be using a figure 8?
simon2133 3 years ago
Anything with redundancy there bro? Sigh.
slickrock5065 3 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Check out the j-arms frictionless descender. Search for j-arms on You Tube. This device is unreal. There is nothing like on the market today. There is always an easier solution.
frictionless1 3 years ago