You take care in using a dark room to assemble the PCB, but when it comes to etching you leave it in a bright lit environment. Wont the photoresist get affected by light even while etching?
Doubling up transparencies is a brilliant idea! I'm going to try that next time I do a board - always have problems with low toner density in large groundplane areas, hopefully that should fix it.
You can use toner transfer (print on some silicone paper then iron on) to apply a component layout to the top side of the board.
Great video! I've also found that OHP transparency film is actually quite bad at giving a good black fill. Thanks to Mike's Electric Stuff (see link on making PCBs), the best I've found is actually tracing paper - Viking Direct code Q29-RG1059, if you're in the UK. Plenty light gets through the tracing paper itself, and the rough surface holds plenty ink. Also, I've found that "compatible" toner carts are not nearly as good as the original manufacturer's, even if they're cheaper!
Nice tutorial on PCB etching! I use almost the same method except the photoresist type - I use "POSITIV" spray. Covering patterns with some oily liquid (e. g., glycerine) is another way to stick them together and to the board so no any frame or glass piece is needed. Also, 'drill-aid.ulp' Eagle script (included in distribution) is very handy when you use manual drilling. The script reduces hole diameters to a selected (small) value more suitable for drill centering.
I don't use PCBs, but they aren't always practical; the circuits that I make are mostly so large and complex that I design them by section and wire them together on a perfboard (no copper, just holes, using leads and wires for connections). Of course, if the circuit is already designed, then it works (designing your own circuits is a big part of the fun, such as the CRT monitor I recently made to use as a display, complete with a internal scan generator - no little LCD/LED displays for me).
there is only one question left to me: everytime I'm watching this video, I'm wondering about the track playing in the first half of it.
I don't know if anybody else allready asked, but is it handmade by yourself? whatever your answer to this might be, I would be very glad to be pointed at a download-location for it...as long as it's legal of course ;D
excuse my bad english, learned it back then in school...long time ago ;D
I remember doing this in Highschool. It's really amazing when you can take something as complicated (Or seemingly so) as a circuit board and make it yourself with relative ease.
thanks agent smith.I spent the entire day trying to iron the toner onto the board and it was failtastic. I'm going to pony up the dough and get some light sensitive boards
yes they rock it back and forth fucker"stop trying to be cool and make fun of people doing it and saying it the normal way".....What and your better and cooler....Nop bitch!!
I would add a sanity check step of making sure a few components fit the printout to make sure that it the right size before etching. Using a dip socket or checking pad centers with a vernier gauge could save some disappointment.
Also keep Ferric Chloride away from aluminum, bad mojo.
@deliusism1 ferric chloride is used in yours nearby coal operated power plant for cleaning tubes from deposits. wouldn't believe how much of the stuff gets into water. This is not nearly concerning as chemical industries. The pipes for wastewater are mainly ceramic or plastic, so You will clean the deposits (calcium based) from pipes. For all of these chemicals there are ways to recycle, depends greatly on country You are in. At my place, we just run a lot of water with it :)
@DannickFox actually, transparent foil must be for laser printer if You are printing on laser. There are transparent foils that can not keep up with the ironing heat from laser printer and wrinkle, or stick, in printer ruining it.
While printed with a laser it looks visually ok, as of Laserjet 4 ( I think) printers use dithering to fill black areas. Can be coped by experimenting with the time of exposure, touchy. Best is to retouch as in video, maybe a reheat before, or a few hours over nitro.
Hi Colin, very nice explanation.. Just a question, i didn't understand which kind of lamp are you using ? Is it a normal light or something more specific ? Thanks a lot, great job !
I made my card today using your technique. The first try was a failure, I hadn't let it enough in the perchlorure so when I washed it with acetone... Everything got pink and horrible. Second try was a lot better and I soaked it with a solution (I don't remember the name) that made it look like silver. It's much more easier for the drills !
DONT READ THIS CAUSE IT ACTUALLY WORKS.YOU WILL BE KISSED ON THE NEAREST FRIDAY POSSILBE FRIDAY BY THE LOVE OF YOUR LIFE.TOMORROW WILL BE THE BEST DAY OF YOUR LIFE.HOWEVER IF YOU DONT POST THIS COMMENT ON 2 VIDEOS YOU WILL DIE WITHIN 2 DAYS.NOW UV STARTED READIND THIS SO DONT STOP.THIS IS SO SCARY.PUT THIS ON AT LEAST 5 VIDEOS IN 143 MINUTES.WHEN YOUR DONE PREES F6 AND YOUR LOVERS NAME WILL APPEAR ON THE SCREEN IN BIG LETTERS.THIS IS SCARY CAUSE IT ACTUALLY .work
I did this once. Massive pain to drill all the holes + expensive corrosive chemicals.
Then I worked out that it's cheaper just to get the boards done at one of the cheap Chinese or Bulgarian manufacturers. You even get plated holes, soldermask and printed labels. The downside is the two weeks of waiting for your board to arrive.
On Make's site you posted in materials that you used : Desk or clip lamp + ~30W CFL bulb. But you in the tutorial you mention 13 W CFL bulb. So which power of CFL bulb is correct? BTW: For CFL bulb, do it must have specific light radiation spectrum or not?
Great job on this process. I did this in High School Electronics forever ago, only we used fingernail polish for resist, with no photosensitive coating. Real caveman, but it works. Again, Excellent video.
is it safe to just dump the etching solution down the drain, or do you have to take it in for proper disposal somewhere?I'd be very concerned about the ecological effects of that stuff contaminating the groundwater, and eating away at the pipes in my house.
@deliusism1 The developer is generally sodium hydroxide based (drain cleaner) and can be dumped safely down the drain as long as you flush with water while doing it. If you want to be extra paranoid you can do what I do - bring it back up to a neutral pH with some hydrochloric acid (testing with pH paper) and then dump the result (salt water plus a little dissolved photoresist) down the sink.
On the other hand, the used etchant has copper chloride in it, which is somewhat less healthy than salt water for the things (and creatures) on the other end of the drain. I generally store it until I have a decent amount of waste (a liter or so) and then bring it to the household hazardous-waste collection day my town has a few times a year.
@deliusism1 I think you can neutralize the solution, but I don't know what to use to do that. Google it or ask in some forum where everyone can see the answer easily.
@deliusism1 contact your local water district to find out how to dispose of FeCl, CuCl, HCl, or any other etching solutions. Every year I have my students create their own circuit boards and then they have to come up with a safe way to dispose of the toxic waste. This stuff biomagnifies like crazy and can cause major brain damage, personality disorders, liver and kidney damage to animals and humans...It's not anything to mess around with.
@deliusism1 Ferric chloride seems to be pretty safe. I've been dumping that down the drain for a while with plenty of water. I don't have municipal sewer and rely on a septic tank and I've had no problems with the tank or dead grass. I've spread FC around on the ground with the same results. Right now I'm using cupric chloride. Used CC can be used for a long time. You just need to re-oxygenate it. CC does do funny stuff to the environment, but it's normally in small quantities.
@deliusism1 that shit ant gona eat ur pipes or fuck up your ground water back in the 70s steel mills dumpted thousands of gallons of nucules wast rit n da river its cause of people like u we got all theas bull shit rulls now turning america into a buntch of comunest basterds tryin to fine and sew me for nothin to support thear pice of shit economey ul b fine ial eat that shit i dont give a FUCK
@deliusism1 Ignore that other guy. T_T Just recycle the etching solution until you cannot use it anymore. Then have it sent to your local chemical disposing facility.
@deliusism1 NO! Plus, you can reuse the etching solution just make sure to filter it through coffee filters every 15-20 etches to make sure the dissolved metals dont limit the solution's acidicy.
The etching info is just something of interest as this sort of etching is not all that critical but it is a good idea not to slosh ferric chloride. It can cause you severe health problems if not handled carefully and anyone who is going to use it should read up on that first. Having said that, much safer than using any of the various acids that can be used. Ferric chloride is used for gravure because it etches much more delicately and cleaner than the acids which is good for traces.
When etching copper with ferric chloride, the usual practice is to etch with the plate upside down. The plate is held off the bottom by attaching a few wax beads (craft shop--press on). Otherwise constant agitation is necessary because ferric chloride expends itself and settles on the surface blocking further action. Upside down--it just falls to the bottom out of the way. (This is the technique used in etching photogravure although the process is far more complicated as it is tonal.)
That is the way I feel about all my home-etched boards. However I have gotten rid of the Ferric Chloride etchant and gone with a Muriatic Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide echant instead. The etchant allows for regeneration through aeration or additional H2O2 which means I can recycle the etchant for years before needing to toss it.
Holy cow, if the CFL puts out enough UV to expose the board. it can cause caterracts with prolonged exposure. LCD monitors also use florescent bulbs. This could be a problem.
Processing electronic materials is really cool, I took a lab where we processed a microchip that had a bunch of devices on it. A major part was using photomasks just like in this video. The only problem is that for the precision of a microchip (our devices had dimensions down to 10 microns) you can't just use a printer for making the masks, it requires photomasks made using an electron beam. I never realized PCBs were so easy, when I get a chance I would like to try this out.
@rginter123 The board is electrically insulating where there is no copper. In the end, this is really no different than just laying down individual wires that are insulated (the actual process is really the opposite since we are removing material rather than adding it). It is just more compact, and more elegant IMO because the entire pattern is creating simultaneously during the etch.
@JoshuaEdumcation it looks like the drill press that he used came from Jameco Electronics, part #26702 for the drill and #26711 for the stand, or it was something similar to the one that they carry. I have found that a dremel tool with a stand and an adjustable chuck works just as well, and a dremel allows you to adjust the speed if needed.
To make your duplicate projector sheet, mirror the image, print it, and flip it over before laying it down on the original. That way, any consistent printing problems that aren't exactly in the middle will be counteracted.
Two notes: if the picture frame uses plastic instead of glass it could be polycarbonate, which blocks UV light. Also, nail polish remover's primary ingredient is acetone, for those concerned with purity.
another alternative to printing a transparency would be to purchase a film positive. Some layouts require higher quality then a desktop printer can offer. Accent Publishing
where did you get those led's for the red light source, what kind of led's are they and how could you afford them and did you make the stand to hold the board.
lol- i too use EAGLE and have the exact same printer...
i use my printer on 8.5mil "soft gloss" photopaper and do toner transfer with a cheapo clothes iron. ive made several surface-mount and a bunch of through-hole designs this way.
all my works have been two-sided boards; totally possible with toner transfer.. the key is to sandwhich your two sheets together, line up ALL drill-holes with the help of VERY bright light, secure w/ masking tape.. slip in your blank board and iron away..
I etched my first board this weekend for my electronics project. Thanks for introducing me to this method and the CadSoft Eagle software. Both worked like a charm.
This is a really fancy way to do it if you ask me. We use to do this at school with normal plain copper boards, permanent markers, rulers and ferric chloride. Yeah, markers, that'll do the job.
You have a 2 layer board design but have only etched 1 layer of it, so the PCB won't work. I wonder if double sided photoresist PCBs are available so you could just align it and expose and develop both sides separately then etch together... that would be cool.
There are double sided exposure pcbs, they're just alittle harder to find. Since there are only 5 top traces on his design, a lot of effort can be saved by simply jumping them with hookup wire.
if the ink will stick to transperency sheet then u can. if doesnt then use 21 UV TRANSPARENT SPRAY and sprey regular paper it will pass the UV light. it will 100% work on inkjet.
colin, i need help with an idea of mine, i need to make a IR Beam Break Switch but cant find any easy to follow instructions on the web and i can't/don't know how to read schematics.
wow, you're awesome, the video also finally explained that the copper actually gets burned away, no one ever told me that, so i had always wondered how it would short circuit, but since the excess copper is chemically removed... finally makes sense.
Could you use that developing solution more than once?
Listn2CKY 2 days ago
he looks like that guy in scary movie, the part in the hounted mansion.
( guy in wheelchair)
superepicfailable 4 days ago
You take care in using a dark room to assemble the PCB, but when it comes to etching you leave it in a bright lit environment. Wont the photoresist get affected by light even while etching?
Hedphelym 5 days ago
Comment removed
NamesROverated 55 minutes ago
Doubling up transparencies is a brilliant idea! I'm going to try that next time I do a board - always have problems with low toner density in large groundplane areas, hopefully that should fix it.
You can use toner transfer (print on some silicone paper then iron on) to apply a component layout to the top side of the board.
imajeenyus42 5 days ago
Great video! I've also found that OHP transparency film is actually quite bad at giving a good black fill. Thanks to Mike's Electric Stuff (see link on making PCBs), the best I've found is actually tracing paper - Viking Direct code Q29-RG1059, if you're in the UK. Plenty light gets through the tracing paper itself, and the rough surface holds plenty ink. Also, I've found that "compatible" toner carts are not nearly as good as the original manufacturer's, even if they're cheaper!
imajeenyus42 5 days ago
This is interesting..
vash2033 1 week ago
omg im 11 and i try it and it was badass it works to
AlarmingRacer15 1 week ago 2
I like your Videos. You got a new subscriber!
G0nny 1 week ago
Really helpful video! Thanks for the effort...
MGARestoration 1 week ago
thanks for the great videos ! keep em coming
Wrench86north 1 week ago
Nice tutorial on PCB etching! I use almost the same method except the photoresist type - I use "POSITIV" spray. Covering patterns with some oily liquid (e. g., glycerine) is another way to stick them together and to the board so no any frame or glass piece is needed. Also, 'drill-aid.ulp' Eagle script (included in distribution) is very handy when you use manual drilling. The script reduces hole diameters to a selected (small) value more suitable for drill centering.
mdofxds 1 week ago
at least you will not have your new invention stolen
MrYendor1968 1 week ago
I don't use PCBs, but they aren't always practical; the circuits that I make are mostly so large and complex that I design them by section and wire them together on a perfboard (no copper, just holes, using leads and wires for connections). Of course, if the circuit is already designed, then it works (designing your own circuits is a big part of the fun, such as the CRT monitor I recently made to use as a display, complete with a internal scan generator - no little LCD/LED displays for me).
ms63129 1 week ago
Awesome tutorial!
there is only one question left to me: everytime I'm watching this video, I'm wondering about the track playing in the first half of it.
I don't know if anybody else allready asked, but is it handmade by yourself? whatever your answer to this might be, I would be very glad to be pointed at a download-location for it...as long as it's legal of course ;D
excuse my bad english, learned it back then in school...long time ago ;D
best regards,
Nalith
TheNalith 2 weeks ago
@TheNalith I am pretty sure he made that song himself. He has a synthezizer or some ridiculous shit like that.
derekwhite26 5 days ago
GOOD
antena1x 2 weeks ago
Very educational! Thanks!!!!
seandavis77 2 weeks ago
I remember doing this in Highschool. It's really amazing when you can take something as complicated (Or seemingly so) as a circuit board and make it yourself with relative ease.
TheDrunkenMantis 2 weeks ago
That was a fantastic video. Makes me want to start etching :p
deathstrike00 2 weeks ago
Well done. Thanks for posting this. Cheers
bluegreen1138 2 weeks ago
Thanks for great vid! :)
shtolcers 2 weeks ago
I wouldn't worry about the stuff in the drain too much. Its probably just FC.
DJMC5ive 2 weeks ago
they're very..purple.
mo12mon 3 weeks ago in playlist More videos from makemagazine
thanks agent smith.I spent the entire day trying to iron the toner onto the board and it was failtastic. I'm going to pony up the dough and get some light sensitive boards
1787dude 3 weeks ago
yes they rock it back and forth fucker"stop trying to be cool and make fun of people doing it and saying it the normal way".....What and your better and cooler....Nop bitch!!
vangk0 3 weeks ago
Subbed.
15tgore 3 weeks ago
Hey, instead of etching, can I use a CNC router to remove the copper layer where I want? It's much faster than etching.
Dark0Lord7 3 weeks ago
I would add a sanity check step of making sure a few components fit the printout to make sure that it the right size before etching. Using a dip socket or checking pad centers with a vernier gauge could save some disappointment.
Also keep Ferric Chloride away from aluminum, bad mojo.
Wombbatts 1 month ago
Very cool video
margoumix 1 month ago
"wow"I didn't know this was possible at home. Thanks for the nice video.
shartne 1 month ago
how long you exposed the pcb in light?
thanks for the wonderful video.
jhunbell08 1 month ago
@deliusism1 ferric chloride is used in yours nearby coal operated power plant for cleaning tubes from deposits. wouldn't believe how much of the stuff gets into water. This is not nearly concerning as chemical industries. The pipes for wastewater are mainly ceramic or plastic, so You will clean the deposits (calcium based) from pipes. For all of these chemicals there are ways to recycle, depends greatly on country You are in. At my place, we just run a lot of water with it :)
antadefector 1 month ago
@DannickFox actually, transparent foil must be for laser printer if You are printing on laser. There are transparent foils that can not keep up with the ironing heat from laser printer and wrinkle, or stick, in printer ruining it.
While printed with a laser it looks visually ok, as of Laserjet 4 ( I think) printers use dithering to fill black areas. Can be coped by experimenting with the time of exposure, touchy. Best is to retouch as in video, maybe a reheat before, or a few hours over nitro.
antadefector 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
nice finished board
gustavoindustry 1 month ago
Hi Colin, very nice explanation.. Just a question, i didn't understand which kind of lamp are you using ? Is it a normal light or something more specific ? Thanks a lot, great job !
demym 1 month ago
I made my card today using your technique. The first try was a failure, I hadn't let it enough in the perchlorure so when I washed it with acetone... Everything got pink and horrible. Second try was a lot better and I soaked it with a solution (I don't remember the name) that made it look like silver. It's much more easier for the drills !
Eagle CAD is a very powerfull tool
darkgilson 1 month ago
is this possible with a inkjet printer
secretst0ld 1 month ago
@secretst0ld yes. As long as you have transparencies designed for inkjets.
DannickFox 1 month ago
@DannickFox THANKS A MILLION =D
secretst0ld 1 month ago
@didisaythankyou On the top layer I think you may have to go around components but it can still be used
will34uk 1 month ago
you remind me of that movie rent shop guy in men in black 2
billynightmare 1 month ago 22
@billynightmare I was thinking more like the Dr. Jekyll from the Bugs Bunny Hide Nor Hare cartoon
maintguy69 1 week ago
not this guy again
neveragaineverever 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
DONT READ THIS CAUSE IT ACTUALLY WORKS.YOU WILL BE KISSED ON THE NEAREST FRIDAY POSSILBE FRIDAY BY THE LOVE OF YOUR LIFE.TOMORROW WILL BE THE BEST DAY OF YOUR LIFE.HOWEVER IF YOU DONT POST THIS COMMENT ON 2 VIDEOS YOU WILL DIE WITHIN 2 DAYS.NOW UV STARTED READIND THIS SO DONT STOP.THIS IS SO SCARY.PUT THIS ON AT LEAST 5 VIDEOS IN 143 MINUTES.WHEN YOUR DONE PREES F6 AND YOUR LOVERS NAME WILL APPEAR ON THE SCREEN IN BIG LETTERS.THIS IS SCARY CAUSE IT ACTUALLY .work
Benfro89 1 month ago
can you make two sided boards? what about surface mount components?
didisaythankyou 2 months ago
I did this once. Massive pain to drill all the holes + expensive corrosive chemicals.
Then I worked out that it's cheaper just to get the boards done at one of the cheap Chinese or Bulgarian manufacturers. You even get plated holes, soldermask and printed labels. The downside is the two weeks of waiting for your board to arrive.
ChumpusRex 2 months ago
Can i do it with my laser engraver?
Dragonmk188 2 months ago
Can i do it with ma laser engraver?
Dragonmk188 2 months ago
Its complicated... and same results can be achieved trough transfer toner method. Much cheap and less time to do.
dumyyyyyy 2 months ago
Nice Tektronix 465 back there at 0:33.
ivaneduardo747 2 months ago
Hi!
On Make's site you posted in materials that you used : Desk or clip lamp + ~30W CFL bulb. But you in the tutorial you mention 13 W CFL bulb. So which power of CFL bulb is correct? BTW: For CFL bulb, do it must have specific light radiation spectrum or not?
orefat 2 months ago
@orefat I think you need a lamp that emits a lot of ultraviolet light, CFL do. Maybe one of those "black lights" will do better.
ivaneduardo747 2 months ago
Great job on this process. I did this in High School Electronics forever ago, only we used fingernail polish for resist, with no photosensitive coating. Real caveman, but it works. Again, Excellent video.
sabledriver 2 months ago
Good job.. very interesting.
ptrakk 2 months ago
Where can the copper plates be bought, in Ireland would be great cheers
noxvill 2 months ago
why did he leave so much copper on the board?
wouldn't it be better if he remove any unused areas
hyper080 3 months ago in playlist Collin's Lab
@hyper080 You can but the less copper that is etched the longer your used etching solution lasts.
GoneBadKiwi 2 months ago
This man needs to seriously shave his head; other then that, bad ass.
Hardwyre 3 months ago
Do a tutorial on cadsoft eagle that would help a ton
risingbanana 3 months ago 29
@risingbanana I'd recommend Fritzing (fritzing . org), it is really easy to use and automatically finds the best traces.
RedArmorLabs 2 months ago
@risingbanana search in youtube there are some tutorials for beginners.Not from colin but they are good.
hallugi 2 weeks ago
cool!
Rubikorigami 3 months ago
This is so super helpful!!! Great video!!
tocool2text 3 months ago
WOW!
kalijasin 3 months ago
Thanks for making electronics more accessible, but you may want to consider getting some UV light exposure yourself sometime...
FarewellMonuments 3 months ago in playlist Collin Cunningham
ssssswwwweeeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!
mrv3rb 3 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
cool NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD
Drbranza 3 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD
Drbranza 3 months ago
I like you man!
TheMzwake 3 months ago
this is great, but i'm new to the circut building could you givemore detail this is great :)
dacreepahh 3 months ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD
Zn1pe 4 months ago
@Zn1pe if you dont like the video, why bother watching it and leaving hate comments. fuck you
MultiJohn12321 4 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@Zn1pe NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD NERD
Drbranza 3 months ago
i use 15 minutes method. Much quicker and easier to make on - with hydrogen and hydrochloric acid.
crackmaster88 4 months ago
Why is some people dislikes this video? This video is very helpful.
asherdavion 4 months ago
@asherdavion yes it is.
kalijasin 3 months ago
is it safe to just dump the etching solution down the drain, or do you have to take it in for proper disposal somewhere?I'd be very concerned about the ecological effects of that stuff contaminating the groundwater, and eating away at the pipes in my house.
deliusism1 4 months ago 34
@deliusism1 dont dump it down the drain, use it for next time!
GasolineWaltz 2 months ago
@deliusism1 The developer is generally sodium hydroxide based (drain cleaner) and can be dumped safely down the drain as long as you flush with water while doing it. If you want to be extra paranoid you can do what I do - bring it back up to a neutral pH with some hydrochloric acid (testing with pH paper) and then dump the result (salt water plus a little dissolved photoresist) down the sink.
nemesisgeek 2 months ago
On the other hand, the used etchant has copper chloride in it, which is somewhat less healthy than salt water for the things (and creatures) on the other end of the drain. I generally store it until I have a decent amount of waste (a liter or so) and then bring it to the household hazardous-waste collection day my town has a few times a year.
nemesisgeek 2 months ago
@nemesisgeek That's what I do too. But I have to wonder, where exactly do they take it? :)
matthewcjenkins 3 weeks ago
@deliusism1 I think you can neutralize the solution, but I don't know what to use to do that. Google it or ask in some forum where everyone can see the answer easily.
ivaneduardo747 2 months ago
@deliusism1 You can neutralize ferric chloride with baking soda.
xiaoyangkao2 2 months ago
@deliusism1 contact your local water district to find out how to dispose of FeCl, CuCl, HCl, or any other etching solutions. Every year I have my students create their own circuit boards and then they have to come up with a safe way to dispose of the toxic waste. This stuff biomagnifies like crazy and can cause major brain damage, personality disorders, liver and kidney damage to animals and humans...It's not anything to mess around with.
dbernhar 2 months ago
@deliusism1 Thats a rather stupid question, it says on the bottle contain the substance whether it needs to be dumped in a special area or not.
goodnamepending 1 month ago
@deliusism1 Ferric Chloride it's not according to the label
cikkupoplu4 1 month ago
@deliusism1 Ferric chloride seems to be pretty safe. I've been dumping that down the drain for a while with plenty of water. I don't have municipal sewer and rely on a septic tank and I've had no problems with the tank or dead grass. I've spread FC around on the ground with the same results. Right now I'm using cupric chloride. Used CC can be used for a long time. You just need to re-oxygenate it. CC does do funny stuff to the environment, but it's normally in small quantities.
therealjammit 3 weeks ago
@deliusism1 that shit ant gona eat ur pipes or fuck up your ground water back in the 70s steel mills dumpted thousands of gallons of nucules wast rit n da river its cause of people like u we got all theas bull shit rulls now turning america into a buntch of comunest basterds tryin to fine and sew me for nothin to support thear pice of shit economey ul b fine ial eat that shit i dont give a FUCK
alinealows 3 weeks ago
@alinealows hahaha wow born and raised in rednecksville aren't we?
grimtango5280 2 weeks ago
@alinealows You seem to have a hard time typing T_T
htfkid2000 2 weeks ago
@deliusism1 Ignore that other guy. T_T Just recycle the etching solution until you cannot use it anymore. Then have it sent to your local chemical disposing facility.
htfkid2000 2 weeks ago
@deliusism1 NO! Plus, you can reuse the etching solution just make sure to filter it through coffee filters every 15-20 etches to make sure the dissolved metals dont limit the solution's acidicy.
chickenpoper 2 weeks ago
savage video mate thanks. aplus computers mountrath ireland
piranhajacks 4 months ago
Part II
The etching info is just something of interest as this sort of etching is not all that critical but it is a good idea not to slosh ferric chloride. It can cause you severe health problems if not handled carefully and anyone who is going to use it should read up on that first. Having said that, much safer than using any of the various acids that can be used. Ferric chloride is used for gravure because it etches much more delicately and cleaner than the acids which is good for traces.
eMarkova000 4 months ago
When etching copper with ferric chloride, the usual practice is to etch with the plate upside down. The plate is held off the bottom by attaching a few wax beads (craft shop--press on). Otherwise constant agitation is necessary because ferric chloride expends itself and settles on the surface blocking further action. Upside down--it just falls to the bottom out of the way. (This is the technique used in etching photogravure although the process is far more complicated as it is tonal.)
eMarkova000 4 months ago
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Perfect howto! Thank you.
prestigen19 4 months ago
Perfect howto! Thank you!
prestigen19 4 months ago
this is excellent - thanks.
VisioninScience 4 months ago
do you recommend any links, books for a beginner ... (intro to circuit boards)
EvolutionXEngine 4 months ago
I wish it was so easy as it seems to be :(
death666label 4 months ago
Do you have a link to the program used ?
Tekkid1981 4 months ago
Do you have a link to the program used ?
Tekkid1981 4 months ago
That is the way I feel about all my home-etched boards. However I have gotten rid of the Ferric Chloride etchant and gone with a Muriatic Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide echant instead. The etchant allows for regeneration through aeration or additional H2O2 which means I can recycle the etchant for years before needing to toss it.
Nabelnoir 5 months ago
Holy cow, if the CFL puts out enough UV to expose the board. it can cause caterracts with prolonged exposure. LCD monitors also use florescent bulbs. This could be a problem.
Nomoreidsleft 5 months ago
That was cool dude,
signedadam 5 months ago
nice impressing. mayaman to dre
MrYu2316 5 months ago
Processing electronic materials is really cool, I took a lab where we processed a microchip that had a bunch of devices on it. A major part was using photomasks just like in this video. The only problem is that for the precision of a microchip (our devices had dimensions down to 10 microns) you can't just use a printer for making the masks, it requires photomasks made using an electron beam. I never realized PCBs were so easy, when I get a chance I would like to try this out.
chimawizzle 5 months ago
when you build something it always feel good
dealio82 5 months ago
you have a shortcircuit there :)
pufarinu 5 months ago
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Man this dude is smart! :)
StarWoors 6 months ago
what do you do with the etchent after your done?
jedimastert0810 6 months ago
@jedimastert0810 drink it
Soundgarden8497 6 months ago
@Soundgarden8497 hahahaha
MrYu2316 5 months ago
what keeps the electricity from traveling in between the surfaces, like on the inside of the copper
rginter123 6 months ago
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chimawizzle 5 months ago
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@rginter123 The board is electrically insulating where there is no copper. In the end, this is really no different than just laying down individual wires that are insulated (the actual process is really the opposite since we are removing material rather than adding it). It is just more compact, and more elegant IMO because the entire pattern is creating simultaneously during the etch.
chimawizzle 5 months ago
SERIOUSLY DUDE YOU ROCK!!!!
B4IRUTUARU16 6 months ago in playlist [=0=] circuits / advanced electronics / mods / homebrew
@B4IRUTUARU16 this guys a foreskiinnnn haha
thetank971 6 months ago
where do you store the left over developer?
SuperSpacePunk 6 months ago
@JoshuaEdumcation it looks like the drill press that he used came from Jameco Electronics, part #26702 for the drill and #26711 for the stand, or it was something similar to the one that they carry. I have found that a dremel tool with a stand and an adjustable chuck works just as well, and a dremel allows you to adjust the speed if needed.
coloradofshr 6 months ago
Very nice vid, didn't seem as complex as I thought it would be. Good job
Maxsle99 6 months ago
what about fingerprints
matthewtchernev123 6 months ago
Where did the mini-drill press come from?
JoshuaEdumcation 7 months ago
Why does it not get more exposed when he moves it from exposing to the developer? Or does it?
crackspider101 7 months ago
@crackspider101 because exposure takes more time than it does to pick up the board and drown it into the developer.
so no big deal.
xasdrubalex 6 months ago
@xasdrubalex Ahh, cheers, so it does a tiny tiny tiny bit?
crackspider101 6 months ago
you can show us what you have made in another video
matthewtchernev123 7 months ago
To make your duplicate projector sheet, mirror the image, print it, and flip it over before laying it down on the original. That way, any consistent printing problems that aren't exactly in the middle will be counteracted.
sobeita 7 months ago
Soldering! Not Sardering! Great vid though.
mike060187 8 months ago 2
now where's the tutorial on home soldering?
Skaldi3 8 months ago
@Skaldi3 is there really a need, it's really easy
grame141 7 months ago
Two notes: if the picture frame uses plastic instead of glass it could be polycarbonate, which blocks UV light. Also, nail polish remover's primary ingredient is acetone, for those concerned with purity.
soulshinobi 8 months ago
Cool. Is there a website I can go to to find different electronics to build other then audio hardware? Maybe a multi project website.
cgrobe21 8 months ago
another alternative to printing a transparency would be to purchase a film positive. Some layouts require higher quality then a desktop printer can offer. Accent Publishing
in San Antonio does a great job. 210-654-9555
accentsa 8 months ago
Ultra-violent light is the worst kind of light!
LamaPaj 8 months ago
where did you get those led's for the red light source, what kind of led's are they and how could you afford them and did you make the stand to hold the board.
matthewtchernev123 8 months ago
I made plenty of etched circuit boards.. all of them were made in a brightly lit room, and all of them work perfectly fine.
Slench101 8 months ago
Why are you using Sodermask to etch the board off instead of a resist coat?
klaz48 8 months ago
lol- i too use EAGLE and have the exact same printer...
i use my printer on 8.5mil "soft gloss" photopaper and do toner transfer with a cheapo clothes iron. ive made several surface-mount and a bunch of through-hole designs this way.
all my works have been two-sided boards; totally possible with toner transfer.. the key is to sandwhich your two sheets together, line up ALL drill-holes with the help of VERY bright light, secure w/ masking tape.. slip in your blank board and iron away..
bahstrike 8 months ago
Collin please do a show on NI Ultiboard or some other PCB layout software
Nadrealis 9 months ago
What design rule set are you using? I have tried the "hobby" rule set that is floating around the Internet but vias etc. still seem a little small.
stsowen683 9 months ago
Hey Collin, I hope you'll reply, but which one is EASIEST, toner transfer methode or photoresist methode?
hannobisschoff1 9 months ago
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Spoodily 9 months ago
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@hannobisschoff1 Photoresist. I made my first board the other day. Super easy. Check out my results.
youtu.be/N6RlTHCeGtM?hd=1
Spoodily 9 months ago
@hannobisschoff1 I tried photresist before and it was easier for me than using and iron.
ahmedadelhosni 8 months ago
@hannobisschoff1 I tried photresist before and it was easier for me than using an iron.
ahmedadelhosni 8 months ago
Whats the best way to dispose of the chemicals when you are done? Surely they can't be safe to just pour down the sink
richardtodwyer 9 months ago
@richardtodwyer
good question ! I am about to make my own board and wish to find an answer before I do so.
z55z 9 months ago
I etched my first board this weekend for my electronics project. Thanks for introducing me to this method and the CadSoft Eagle software. Both worked like a charm.
Spoodily 9 months ago
cool
puffdaddy4151 9 months ago
1. How do I tell if the board has been exposed for long enough?
2. What are those weird red Ns with lowercase O's next to them on boards after they're etched?
Thanks.
KindomOfHappiness 9 months ago
i'll stick to.....not knowing anything about anything in this video
SIurm 9 months ago
great video!!
rleon1991 9 months ago
"(...) it's got heart! Something that those boards don't!"
Ahahahahah
You're the best!
: D
edgar5241 10 months ago 61
I love Eagle it's easy to learn :)
renekenshin6573 10 months ago
20 minutes for etching is far too long. You had a nice result there after developing. Also, I spotted at least one short circuit on that board ;)
linuxgeek81 10 months ago
@linuxgeek81 He should've warmed the solution beforehand, it wouldn't have taken nearly as long, lol
WindowsDevPro 8 months ago
This printer is really quite crappy ;)
linuxgeek81 10 months ago
This is a really fancy way to do it if you ask me. We use to do this at school with normal plain copper boards, permanent markers, rulers and ferric chloride. Yeah, markers, that'll do the job.
alejosky 10 months ago
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malikadiana 11 months ago
You have a 2 layer board design but have only etched 1 layer of it, so the PCB won't work. I wonder if double sided photoresist PCBs are available so you could just align it and expose and develop both sides separately then etch together... that would be cool.
KX36 11 months ago
@KX36
There are double sided exposure pcbs, they're just alittle harder to find. Since there are only 5 top traces on his design, a lot of effort can be saved by simply jumping them with hookup wire.
xiaoyangkao2 11 months ago
Colin Cunningham, you are my hero!
DjuraKeretina 11 months ago
Does this require a laser printer or will an inkjet work?
TheMrgeekmania 11 months ago
@TheMrgeekmania
if the ink will stick to transperency sheet then u can. if doesnt then use 21 UV TRANSPARENT SPRAY and sprey regular paper it will pass the UV light. it will 100% work on inkjet.
webkar 11 months ago
i prefer useing bread boards
robloxdude306 1 year ago
@robloxdude306 cuz u are too cheap to buy the stuff
MultiJohn12321 1 year ago
and then what? ;)
DulceJaja 1 year ago
some pads there were in short, the ones that passes between 2 IC pads,
This is the most proffesional way to do a board, but it is quite expensive, and you need a 2 differnt liquids.
but the result is very good.
Im going to build a CNC mill to do this stuff.
CxC2007 1 year ago
colin, i need help with an idea of mine, i need to make a IR Beam Break Switch but cant find any easy to follow instructions on the web and i can't/don't know how to read schematics.
Thanks,
Zac
zacharney1 1 year ago
He sounds like a younger version of Obama.
ericmathison1 1 year ago
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Does jameco give you free stuff?
vusiliyK 1 year ago
i can tell u how to reduce the 20 min into 5 min max!!!!
1atera3 1 year ago
This stuff scares me... i guess ill stick to perfboards
nikonfseries 1 year ago
thats tight...
JustBeachyGuy 1 year ago
No liquid tin as a finishing touch?
jcb1972 1 year ago
Hi Collin, So cool . I really enjoy your how to do videos . I would like to see a video on doing a two sided circuit board etch.
vvette57 1 year ago
wow, you're awesome, the video also finally explained that the copper actually gets burned away, no one ever told me that, so i had always wondered how it would short circuit, but since the excess copper is chemically removed... finally makes sense.
HeadShot360IN 1 year ago 40