The first thing you should do after making your facecut and then bore the tree is to check that your hinge is equal thickness on both sides, assuming that you aren't trying to spin the tree by making the hinge thinner on one side, and level to the facecut. You can leave the saw in the kerf for this step. Once it has been established as satisfactory, push the saw right out through the back of the tree to make the felling cut. It's faster and safer than doing it the way it was done here.
@GEO900RGE Ha - you're right! I wasn't very confident, as this was nearly 4 years ago and probably only the third time I'd tried a boring cut - and the first time on camera too. I'd do it a lot quicker these days, and more accurately as well.
@mikepepler Hey Mike you got the right idea i just come across the video and the only thing i can say is when you go to make your final cut across the back, go from the bottom up that way if the tree decides to lean back your saw will not get stuck, and also you want your bore to be even with the bottom of your wedge so that you get a nice smooth hinge. Been felling trees for 25 years now and the bore cut is by far the safest.
@momatried1952 Thanks for the feedback. I've done a lot more bore cuts now, as I've just done the CS32 course on felling larger trees - check out my recent videos from it...
@momatried1952 Sorry, but both of you are mistaken about the back cut. You never make an angled back cut, either up or down. First, by making an angled back cut you are cutting more material and thus taking longer to release the tree, risking a barberchair. Second an angled backcut prevents proper wedging if needed because the angular holding wood is weak(thinner and unsupported, exposing the longest fibers to forces which may cause them to seperate if if wedged against). To be cont'd.....
@momatried1952 ....and finally.....an angled backcut, either from the bottom up or top down does nothing to prevent a bar from being pinched.
One more thing, making your backcut level with the bottom of the facecut wedge does not leave any shoulder to prevent a kickback of the tree once the hinge is broken.
@sionweb1 Yep. I'd only done my training a couple of months earlier, and bought the saw just after that. It's looking a bit more battered now, nearly 4 years on!
people have commented about leaving a bigger hinge. Just wanted to point out that you left no hinge at all. It finished as a step cut but probably went over the right way due to the forwards lean on it. This leaves you with alot less control and very little time to get out of the danger zone, also alot more likely to jump back off the stump and do you some damage :S
@MrTreeJuice I agree. It's interesting for me looking back with a few years more experience! I was probably thinking too much about the video and not enough about the tree being felled!
@schulzy5 you are absolutely incorrect. a good rule of thumb is to establish a hinge 10% of the diameter of the tree with your box being approximately 1/3 the diameter. go back to the books rookie. or even better, have someone that knows wtf they're doing show you.
@Hardened84 Erm, if you read the other comments you'd see that I uploaded this video nearly 4 years ago, it was also it was the first tree I ever felled with a boring cut, and I'd not been using a chainsaw very long. As you can see from the comments, I accept all valid criticism of the stuff I did in this video, but also acknowledge that I was indeed a 'rookie' then, but am not now. Cheers, Mike
@TheMONTREYJACK1993 Thanks :-) Yes, I should have left a bigger hinge - it's always interesting looking back after a few years - I was a beginner then!
@TheMONTREYJACK1993 Well thankfully I had a really good instructor. It was worth me paying for the training as I didn't have anyone else to show me how to do it. As a result I've had no injuries so far...
Oh and one more thing about the hinge or holding wood thickness, the instructors will tell you that on more stringy types of wood like white oak, hickory and pine, a less thick hinge is better so not to split the tree. The proper thickness it %10 of the diameter of the tree at breast height which is considered 52 inches. So on a 20 inch tree leave 2 inches for a hinge, thats what they teach but I've learned the hard way that, that is too much. Education is great but expierence is best.
For the person suggesting to call a tree service company here in Missouri the normal rate is $1,000 U.S. dollars per tree. This cut can save you alot of money if done correctly. I think this video was really intended more for people going to work or already working in the logging industry to use on leaning trees, or otherwise for the tree service company like you suggested to learn from.
before you get it cut all the way out of the back and it can ( and has to me a few times) pinch your saw as it pulls a root out of the ground and throw your saw 20 feet in the air which is never good. It cost me a saw once. Always cut the trigger from the back just like you did just make it flat to avoid flats on skidder tires. This is the safest method to cut every tree even though I hardly use it because ( time consuming) the tree cannot fall until your ready for it unlike other hinge cuts
I have read every comment on this video and I would like to put in some of what I've learned from years of doing this. #1 a good reason to cut the back cut (trigger) horizontally is that it can save you from having to cut off the sharp corner sticking up that your skidder (if using one like we do here) will run over and cut the tire or so you don't slip and fall on it. #2 the reason that you never cut all the way out the back in one cut is because a large diameter tree can fall continued...
so you state in your description, " I trained to learn how to do this " , so just curious, this training also trained you not to have any holding wood? just curious man, holding wood is very important in tree felling. so good luck here, and hopefully you have had more training to obtain this information, and props on all proper ppe. enjoy and safe cutting.
Good technique, although it's handy to skin the bark off the back side level with your boring cut first so you know precisely how much solid wood you have left. I've gone through before on a pine with unusually thick bark on one side.
I always thought the idea was to keep cutting out from the bore away from the gob/scarf until you were the whole way through, then the tree will start to fall. I've used this method for when you've got two stems close by each other and you want to reduce the risk of damaging the other stem by keeping the wood to be cut between it and the saw.
@chrisbwah Yes, I've seen it done that way since. Not sure why that isn't the way you're taught on the NPTC courses. I've done it myself with two stems close together, as you mention.
@2ubtrue It's intended to reduce the risk of the tree splitting up the trunk while you're putting in the felling cut. This is most likely on a heavily leaning tree. The one I chose for a demo was just a small tree and didn't actually *need* it.
@shoopwhoopX I'd love to! I have actually bought a felling axe, and hope to start using it soon, as I'm nearly done with the coppicing for this winter (which has been done with the chainsaw...). I've heard that felling with an axe can be quite fast, but I guess it'll take me a while to get good with it, so the chainsaw's going to be in use for some time yet...
I use a boring cut all the time.Some trees rot in the center and have unstable hearth wood , some lean to far in one direction and other have to be felled on hillsides.It is also useful for lining up your back cut.always cut with a sharp chain and the kick back danger will be reduced in folds.
@ImmortalGodSkiLL Actually, they're not being killed, just given a severe "hair cut", as they grow back rapidly, using the existing mature root network. This is known as coppicing, and has been practised for thousands of years. It's very sustainable as no or little replanting is needed, and it's good for the wildlife too, as the extra light reaching the ground encourages a diversity of plant life.
Very interesting comments. I did not even know that doing that with trees was even possible! If only it was done more then the planet would be better.
@fangjangler Not in deciduous woodland in the UK - we don't get wildfires here, and the extra light is beneficial for biodiversity. I can see it could be a problem in other countries.
@MrSamHell Hi Sam, I was taught it for use on heavily leaning trees (i.e. leaning more than the one in this video), but it is good for any tree that has a high risk of splitting and kicking back (i.e. doing a "barber chair"). There's a comment below that says it's good for frozen trees, but I doubt I'll see that in Southern England! Mike
@xwing26 I assume you mean the trunk splitting and the back half kicking out? That's the whole point of this cut - by doing the middle of the felling cut through boring, you can then complete it very quickly from the back, leaving no time for the tree to split and kick before it starts falling normally.
@picklefork21 Ah yes, he meant kickback on the saw, didn't he! As you say, it's the top half of the rounded nose on the bar you must avoid touching the wood on its own. The way it works with a boring cut is that you start with the underside of the bar, cutting a slot. Once it's deep enough you can rotate the saw and go straight in. Although the "kickback zone" is now in contact with wood, it's OK as the slot contains the saw and holds it still. Best to get an expert to teach you this though!!!
@mikepepler That is a reverse wedge.Meaning the angle is down ward towards ground level cut is at the top.Back cut is slightly higher but also level. So when the tree falls the wedge starts to close. Acting like a the hammer on a revolver pistol.When stump releases all the energy the tree is then pushed away from stump about 2 to 6 ft thus no slide back.Always gravity to your advantage.
@alieng89 It doesn't prevent stem kick back any more than a typically angled face cut, the angle of the stem relative to the ground when the face closes and the hinge breaks is determined by the angle of the face cut, up OR down. An Open Face cut halves the angle of the stem to the ground. A Humboldt is used so as to not waste valuable board feet of timber on large diameter logs in areas where high stumps are ok or ground angle is very steep.
Anyone who fells frozen trees knows about the bore cut, when felling straight grain hardwood trees that are frozen you NEED to use a bore cut or the fuckers will split out on you every time
I didn't *need* to use it on this tree, it just happened to be one big enough to demonstrate on. The cut is needed on trees that are heavily leaning, and may therefore split up the trunk while you're part way through a normal back cut. This obviously wrecks the timber, and is also dangerous, so the boring cut gets round the problem.
As mentioned below, it's not one to try without proper training from an experienced forester - I learned it on an NPTC course.
I know this guy looks like he knows what he's doing, but Please people! If you feel that you need to use a bore cut to fell a tree. Then Please! Please! Please do not even attempt to cut down a tree. This shit can Kill you (No Joke). It's not worth your life! Simply call a tree removal service, and don't kill yourself....
There is no "how to fell a tree video". If you want to know how to cut trees, then ask somebody who knows, and can teach you....
This isn't meant to be a "how to fell a tree" video, just a video of someone felling a tree using a boring cut.
As I've said in comments below, this technique should only be used if you've had training on how to do it safely, as making a boring cut can indeed be dangerous.
@BigHeadFarm i agree, that is good to see. most professionals do wear the proper PPE. strangely enough, the guys being televised are the guys wearing no safety glasses, tank tops and gauntlet style gloves. it's all about ratings sir/ma'am.
@ rigge1988. I can't find anything about the hinge-method on youtube. Is there an video available? I always use the method shown on the video shown here, but I believe man can never learn enough to make his live easier and saver ;-)
Sure, I normally would. I just wanted to make a video of a "boring" cut, that was all. A lot of faffing around for a tree that doesn't really need it otherwise! :-)
Yes, I'd say 90% of trees I fell are with a standard hinge. Most of the rest are using a split-level hinge, and then there's the very occasional boring cut - but probably only one a year on average!
You should really go on a course to learn this bit, that's what I did. or learn with an expert you know. The trick is that you don't just go straight in, you start with the the underside of the tip of the bar, where there's no kickback. Once you've created a groove in the tree you can then carefully pivot the saw round until it's pointing straight through the tree. Because the tip of the bar is sitting in the groove it can't kick back, it's held in place. Like I said though, get some training...
when ur working with heavy head leaners aways stand beside the tree when ur doing the back cut so just in case its does barberchair it won't smack you in the face
Yes, definitely. Last thing you should do is lean round the back of it, or it can take your head off. One of the most common causes of fatalities felling trees I believe...
This type of cut works best when the tree is decayed and you have a tag line to a loader, as in a california pepper. Theres times where you place a back cut and only one side has hingewood and the other side is decayed out, causing the tree to fall to one side. I have been usuing this cut for a several years on decayed trees, never knew what it was called.
That makes sense - I learned it in the context of heavily leaning trees, which may split suddenly with a normal felling cut, but I guess a decayed tree is even more unstable, so benefits from it as well. I've never felled anything really decayed though - sweet chestnut is durable, so the dead ones I've felled have still been in one solid piece.
I agree with the release or trigger analysis; "The cut you used for the back cut, the "trigger," should have been horizontal and slightly lower than the plunge.
The purpose of the trigger cut being slightly lower is that there would be almost no risk of the tree grabbing the saw out of your hands.
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A point missed so far is how little hinge you left.
More control with a larger hinge and you were probably very close to pinching your bar.
It's kind of embarrassing looking back at videos of me cutting trees as a beginner - I've had more practice now. I probably should have picked a bigger tree for the video...
The reason it worked despite the small hinge is probably that the sweet chestnut fibres are remarkably strong - even small hinges hold on pretty well. I've cut sycamore since, and it's completely different - even a large hinge will easily break while the tree is coming down.
The cut you used for the back cut, the "trigger," should have been horizontal and slightly lower from the plunge cut.
The purpose of the trigger cut being slightly lower is that there would be no possibility of getting the saw stuck in the wood.--It is called "cutting into the step."
If you continue to make your back cut like (when boring a leaning tree) that you increase the risk of the tree grabbing the saw out of your hands.
My trainer showed me the way I did it, with the choice of a flat or sloping cut - the idea for the sloping one is it's guaranteed to intersect the plunge cut. Idon't think he mentioned the idea of cutting slightly below, but I'll see him in a few weeks so will try to remember to ask.
I'll try your method next time I get a chance, although it might be a while as the work we've planned for this winter doesn't include many large trees.
Having fell timber most of life the one thing I always stress is safety and as your vids are viewed by many who may of just picked up saw for first time I was wondering if you could mention that cutting or boring streight in with tip one must be carefull of kickback. I patched and packed too many good men out, not all alive, and yes even cut myself a time or two, both hurt like hell to go through.
I agree entirely - I did the NPTC training and passed the exam for this kind of work - safety is paramount. I'll amend the main description to recommend people don't try this without training. My videos are on here for interest only, not instruction...
This is playing at falling a tree. Making a simple job complicated. Noticed tree also had heavy side lean and was quite small. Why not fall it sideways.Damn ground as flat as a pancake to begin with and playing is fine if you do not have to produce.
Of course it was playing - I wouldn't have my wife filming up close if it was a dangerous tree to fell. We are producing though - last weekend I help customers load 6 tonnes of logs to take away.
For us though, owning and managing a woodland is meant to be fun, as well as hard work, so we make sure to take some time to "play" :-) Check our blog out for more (see link on my profile page).
It's a billhook, used for cutting off branches after felling a tree, and other things too. Can cut through a 1-inch branch in one go with the right technique.
we did this in college it was called a dog thooth cut its to be used when felling a small tree in the direction its leaning helps prevent the top snapping out & prevent the butt end to come back & kick up which could hit you :)
i was studying in Merrist Woods im hoping to go back there soon & get my CS 38 & CS 39would also like to do my medium & large felling tickets. where abouts you studying? :)
Hi Mike, no worries. Like I said , great video. We all just had a big old disucssion on the sloping backcut at arboristsite dot c and it was pretty much decried. But that was mostly and anlysis in bigger PNW trees. The main concern was breakingout the back of the cut if wedging was needed. Since this is a leaner I reckon the concern wont apply. Nice to see different stuff like the felling lever. Thanks.
There's some more stuff about our wood on our blog (peplers dot blogspot dot com).
Surprised you'd not seen a felling lever though? I guess on a larger tree you have to use wedges (I have these too), but for our coppicing, the lever is quick and easy to use. It also has a cant hook, for turning hung up trees to loosen them, or rolling logs.
When I did my training we were told we could do the back cut flat or sloping. I think the sloping cut was a Scandinavian tradition. Not sure it has any particular advantage, though perhaps it's easier to get it to meet the slot?
wasnt so boring
ohgr8thatguy 2 months ago
The first thing you should do after making your facecut and then bore the tree is to check that your hinge is equal thickness on both sides, assuming that you aren't trying to spin the tree by making the hinge thinner on one side, and level to the facecut. You can leave the saw in the kerf for this step. Once it has been established as satisfactory, push the saw right out through the back of the tree to make the felling cut. It's faster and safer than doing it the way it was done here.
pheloniousmunk 2 months ago
Nice work!
TheCombineify 3 months ago
what brand of saw if that?
ubetubin 4 months ago
@ubetubin It's a Husqvarna, a 346XP.
mikepepler 4 months ago
@GEO900RGE Ha - you're right! I wasn't very confident, as this was nearly 4 years ago and probably only the third time I'd tried a boring cut - and the first time on camera too. I'd do it a lot quicker these days, and more accurately as well.
mikepepler 5 months ago
@mikepepler Hey Mike you got the right idea i just come across the video and the only thing i can say is when you go to make your final cut across the back, go from the bottom up that way if the tree decides to lean back your saw will not get stuck, and also you want your bore to be even with the bottom of your wedge so that you get a nice smooth hinge. Been felling trees for 25 years now and the bore cut is by far the safest.
momatried1952 3 months ago
@momatried1952 Thanks for the feedback. I've done a lot more bore cuts now, as I've just done the CS32 course on felling larger trees - check out my recent videos from it...
mikepepler 3 months ago
@momatried1952 Sorry, but both of you are mistaken about the back cut. You never make an angled back cut, either up or down. First, by making an angled back cut you are cutting more material and thus taking longer to release the tree, risking a barberchair. Second an angled backcut prevents proper wedging if needed because the angular holding wood is weak(thinner and unsupported, exposing the longest fibers to forces which may cause them to seperate if if wedged against). To be cont'd.....
pheloniousmunk 2 months ago 5
@momatried1952 ....and finally.....an angled backcut, either from the bottom up or top down does nothing to prevent a bar from being pinched.
One more thing, making your backcut level with the bottom of the facecut wedge does not leave any shoulder to prevent a kickback of the tree once the hinge is broken.
pheloniousmunk 2 months ago
is it a new saw
sionweb1 6 months ago
@sionweb1 Yep. I'd only done my training a couple of months earlier, and bought the saw just after that. It's looking a bit more battered now, nearly 4 years on!
mikepepler 6 months ago
people have commented about leaving a bigger hinge. Just wanted to point out that you left no hinge at all. It finished as a step cut but probably went over the right way due to the forwards lean on it. This leaves you with alot less control and very little time to get out of the danger zone, also alot more likely to jump back off the stump and do you some damage :S
nice video though :)
MrTreeJuice 6 months ago
@MrTreeJuice I agree. It's interesting for me looking back with a few years more experience! I was probably thinking too much about the video and not enough about the tree being felled!
mikepepler 6 months ago
your hinge is to be 80% of the diameter of the tree.
schulzy5 7 months ago
@schulzy5 Yes, that's right. Not sure if I had 80% on this one, due to leaving room to do bore the slot through the tree.
mikepepler 7 months ago
@schulzy5 you are absolutely incorrect. a good rule of thumb is to establish a hinge 10% of the diameter of the tree with your box being approximately 1/3 the diameter. go back to the books rookie. or even better, have someone that knows wtf they're doing show you.
Hardened84 5 months ago
@Hardened84 Erm, if you read the other comments you'd see that I uploaded this video nearly 4 years ago, it was also it was the first tree I ever felled with a boring cut, and I'd not been using a chainsaw very long. As you can see from the comments, I accept all valid criticism of the stuff I did in this video, but also acknowledge that I was indeed a 'rookie' then, but am not now. Cheers, Mike
mikepepler 5 months ago
all i would say is leave a bigger hinge controls tree as it falls apart from that nice job mate =]
TheMONTREYJACK1993 7 months ago
@TheMONTREYJACK1993 Thanks :-) Yes, I should have left a bigger hinge - it's always interesting looking back after a few years - I was a beginner then!
mikepepler 7 months ago
@mikepepler and your so true everybody has to learn some how =]
TheMONTREYJACK1993 7 months ago
@TheMONTREYJACK1993 Well thankfully I had a really good instructor. It was worth me paying for the training as I didn't have anyone else to show me how to do it. As a result I've had no injuries so far...
mikepepler 7 months ago
I call this a 'Dog toothed cut'.
sludgehammerhellfest 7 months ago
@sludgehammerhellfest Yeah, I think our course instructor said that was another name for it ...
mikepepler 7 months ago
Oh and one more thing about the hinge or holding wood thickness, the instructors will tell you that on more stringy types of wood like white oak, hickory and pine, a less thick hinge is better so not to split the tree. The proper thickness it %10 of the diameter of the tree at breast height which is considered 52 inches. So on a 20 inch tree leave 2 inches for a hinge, thats what they teach but I've learned the hard way that, that is too much. Education is great but expierence is best.
tufferenhell 8 months ago
@tufferenhell Thanks for all the useful info and advice! :-)
mikepepler 8 months ago
For the person suggesting to call a tree service company here in Missouri the normal rate is $1,000 U.S. dollars per tree. This cut can save you alot of money if done correctly. I think this video was really intended more for people going to work or already working in the logging industry to use on leaning trees, or otherwise for the tree service company like you suggested to learn from.
tufferenhell 8 months ago
before you get it cut all the way out of the back and it can ( and has to me a few times) pinch your saw as it pulls a root out of the ground and throw your saw 20 feet in the air which is never good. It cost me a saw once. Always cut the trigger from the back just like you did just make it flat to avoid flats on skidder tires. This is the safest method to cut every tree even though I hardly use it because ( time consuming) the tree cannot fall until your ready for it unlike other hinge cuts
tufferenhell 8 months ago
I have read every comment on this video and I would like to put in some of what I've learned from years of doing this. #1 a good reason to cut the back cut (trigger) horizontally is that it can save you from having to cut off the sharp corner sticking up that your skidder (if using one like we do here) will run over and cut the tire or so you don't slip and fall on it. #2 the reason that you never cut all the way out the back in one cut is because a large diameter tree can fall continued...
tufferenhell 8 months ago
Nice!
soefinwhat56 9 months ago
is there a big chance of kickback with this technique?
uberonn 9 months ago
@uberonn Yes, when you make the boring cut. That's why it's important to have someone teach you how to start that cut safely.
mikepepler 9 months ago
so you state in your description, " I trained to learn how to do this " , so just curious, this training also trained you not to have any holding wood? just curious man, holding wood is very important in tree felling. so good luck here, and hopefully you have had more training to obtain this information, and props on all proper ppe. enjoy and safe cutting.
frizzybob 10 months ago
@frizzybob Do you mean holding wood at the back of the tree after boring a slot? Or the hinge? Not sure which you mean. Cheers, Mike
mikepepler 10 months ago
Good technique, although it's handy to skin the bark off the back side level with your boring cut first so you know precisely how much solid wood you have left. I've gone through before on a pine with unusually thick bark on one side.
casparbush 11 months ago
@casparbush Good point, that's important on a tree with thick bark.
mikepepler 11 months ago
i see you know how to do it! great video!!!
mlm74799 1 year ago
I always thought the idea was to keep cutting out from the bore away from the gob/scarf until you were the whole way through, then the tree will start to fall. I've used this method for when you've got two stems close by each other and you want to reduce the risk of damaging the other stem by keeping the wood to be cut between it and the saw.
chrisbwah 1 year ago
@chrisbwah Yes, I've seen it done that way since. Not sure why that isn't the way you're taught on the NPTC courses. I've done it myself with two stems close together, as you mention.
Mike
mikepepler 1 year ago
Why use this cut? It seems too tedious and not really applicable on larger trees eh? Your response is appreciated.
2ubtrue 1 year ago
@2ubtrue It's intended to reduce the risk of the tree splitting up the trunk while you're putting in the felling cut. This is most likely on a heavily leaning tree. The one I chose for a demo was just a small tree and didn't actually *need* it.
Cheers, Mike
mikepepler 1 year ago
@mikepepler isent that why you make a larger face cut?
norcallogger 1 year ago
@norcallogger I guess that would help too.
mikepepler 1 year ago
@mikepepler Thnx
2ubtrue 11 months ago
@2ubtrue large or small this is way to much work for something so simple to do
norcallogger 1 year ago
@norcallogger I've rarely seen a tree that *needed* this cut. The one in this video didn't, it just happened to be big enough to demo it on.
mikepepler 1 year ago
@mikepepler You've never seen a heavily leaning tree?
arbcare 11 months ago
@arbcare Sure I have, just not many large leaning ones in our woodland. At least not big enough to *need* a boring cut to fell them.
mikepepler 11 months ago
use an axe boy
shoopwhoopX 1 year ago
@shoopwhoopX I'd love to! I have actually bought a felling axe, and hope to start using it soon, as I'm nearly done with the coppicing for this winter (which has been done with the chainsaw...). I've heard that felling with an axe can be quite fast, but I guess it'll take me a while to get good with it, so the chainsaw's going to be in use for some time yet...
mikepepler 1 year ago
@mikepepler make sure you pad up about a foot of the shaft under the axehead, in-case of over swing,
shoopwhoopX 1 year ago
@shoopwhoopX Good point - I've broken a sledgehammer handle before this way, while over-reaching while hitting a steel wedge.
mikepepler 1 year ago
Nice cutting man!
oldbuckshot 1 year ago
thats a neat way of cutting it , usually i just cut a inch below the boar cut to drop it
alexzanderhill 1 year ago
Nice, good example of this. Thanks for the informative video.
THRUTHESMOKENMIRRORS 1 year ago
Wheres your Stihl?
bozepiemeltje 1 year ago
@bozepiemeltje I prefer Husky, but Stihl are good too.
mikepepler 1 year ago
I use a boring cut all the time.Some trees rot in the center and have unstable hearth wood , some lean to far in one direction and other have to be felled on hillsides.It is also useful for lining up your back cut.always cut with a sharp chain and the kick back danger will be reduced in folds.
seang6464 1 year ago
Trees have live too :(
ImmortalGodSkiLL 1 year ago
@ImmortalGodSkiLL Actually, they're not being killed, just given a severe "hair cut", as they grow back rapidly, using the existing mature root network. This is known as coppicing, and has been practised for thousands of years. It's very sustainable as no or little replanting is needed, and it's good for the wildlife too, as the extra light reaching the ground encourages a diversity of plant life.
mikepepler 1 year ago 13
@mikepepler
Very interesting comments. I did not even know that doing that with trees was even possible! If only it was done more then the planet would be better.
hearts76100 1 year ago
@mikepepler That extra sunlight leads to more undergrowth, which leads to worse wildfires.
fangjangler 6 months ago
@fangjangler Not in deciduous woodland in the UK - we don't get wildfires here, and the extra light is beneficial for biodiversity. I can see it could be a problem in other countries.
mikepepler 6 months ago
@mikepepler I am speaking of the forests of the United States, definitely going to be different in other parts of the world.
fangjangler 6 months ago
@ImmortalGodSkiLL Do they have a soul? I guess I need to explain that tree life is different from human life.
pheloniousmunk 2 months ago
:57....you almost entirely cut through your holding wood.
Altayayo 1 year ago
@Altayayo Yeah, it would have been better if I'd had a bigger tree to demo on.
mikepepler 1 year ago
Hi Mike, thanks for the video. Is there a situation where a boring cut would be favorable over other techniques?
MrSamHell 1 year ago
@MrSamHell Hi Sam, I was taught it for use on heavily leaning trees (i.e. leaning more than the one in this video), but it is good for any tree that has a high risk of splitting and kicking back (i.e. doing a "barber chair"). There's a comment below that says it's good for frozen trees, but I doubt I'll see that in Southern England! Mike
mikepepler 1 year ago
@MrSamHell It's mainly for heavily leaning trees - this tree was just a simple one for filming.
mikepepler 1 year ago
when u bore it like that, how do you avoid kickbacks
xwing26 1 year ago
@xwing26 I assume you mean the trunk splitting and the back half kicking out? That's the whole point of this cut - by doing the middle of the felling cut through boring, you can then complete it very quickly from the back, leaving no time for the tree to split and kick before it starts falling normally.
mikepepler 1 year ago
@xwing26 Don't hit the danger zone on the top corner of the bar to avoid the dreaded kickback.
picklefork21 1 year ago
@picklefork21 Ah yes, he meant kickback on the saw, didn't he! As you say, it's the top half of the rounded nose on the bar you must avoid touching the wood on its own. The way it works with a boring cut is that you start with the underside of the bar, cutting a slot. Once it's deep enough you can rotate the saw and go straight in. Although the "kickback zone" is now in contact with wood, it's OK as the slot contains the saw and holds it still. Best to get an expert to teach you this though!!!
mikepepler 1 year ago
I take it you have never used a humbolt cut?
Truklodyte 1 year ago
@Truklodyte No, what is it?
mikepepler 1 year ago
@mikepepler That is a reverse wedge.Meaning the angle is down ward towards ground level cut is at the top.Back cut is slightly higher but also level. So when the tree falls the wedge starts to close. Acting like a the hammer on a revolver pistol.When stump releases all the energy the tree is then pushed away from stump about 2 to 6 ft thus no slide back.Always gravity to your advantage.
Truklodyte 1 year ago
@mikepepler reverse wedge.The angle is down not up like traditional cutting a tree down. Prevents tree slide back.
alieng89 1 year ago
@alieng89 It doesn't prevent stem kick back any more than a typically angled face cut, the angle of the stem relative to the ground when the face closes and the hinge breaks is determined by the angle of the face cut, up OR down. An Open Face cut halves the angle of the stem to the ground. A Humboldt is used so as to not waste valuable board feet of timber on large diameter logs in areas where high stumps are ok or ground angle is very steep.
pheloniousmunk 2 months ago
his technique is ok but he should have came out of the cut in reverse (backstrap) instead of a second backcut
jessejames689 1 year ago
@jessejames689 That's an interesting point. I cut it the way I was taught to, but it would work just the same the way you describe I guess.
mikepepler 1 year ago
Anyone who fells frozen trees knows about the bore cut, when felling straight grain hardwood trees that are frozen you NEED to use a bore cut or the fuckers will split out on you every time
redneck45436 1 year ago
Why is this technique used? What would have happened if at 0:17 you had just placed a normal back cut instead of the boring cut?
HomoGnosticus 2 years ago
I didn't *need* to use it on this tree, it just happened to be one big enough to demonstrate on. The cut is needed on trees that are heavily leaning, and may therefore split up the trunk while you're part way through a normal back cut. This obviously wrecks the timber, and is also dangerous, so the boring cut gets round the problem.
As mentioned below, it's not one to try without proper training from an experienced forester - I learned it on an NPTC course.
mikepepler 2 years ago
I know this guy looks like he knows what he's doing, but Please people! If you feel that you need to use a bore cut to fell a tree. Then Please! Please! Please do not even attempt to cut down a tree. This shit can Kill you (No Joke). It's not worth your life! Simply call a tree removal service, and don't kill yourself....
There is no "how to fell a tree video". If you want to know how to cut trees, then ask somebody who knows, and can teach you....
Theweirdchainsawguy 2 years ago
This isn't meant to be a "how to fell a tree" video, just a video of someone felling a tree using a boring cut.
As I've said in comments below, this technique should only be used if you've had training on how to do it safely, as making a boring cut can indeed be dangerous.
Cheers, Mike
mikepepler 2 years ago
where you bored into the wood it was a little high and the cut is called a dog's tooth
92calwood 2 years ago
Yes, I need to do it lower next time.
mikepepler 2 years ago
lol at the crow at the end :D
paronfisk 2 years ago
There's always a lot of birds there, though the crows are just flying overhead, they don't tend to land in the wood.
mikepepler 2 years ago
it's good to see somebody wearing proper safety equipment
BigHeadFarm 2 years ago 7
Yeah, there's so many that don't...
mikepepler 2 years ago
@BigHeadFarm i agree, that is good to see. most professionals do wear the proper PPE. strangely enough, the guys being televised are the guys wearing no safety glasses, tank tops and gauntlet style gloves. it's all about ratings sir/ma'am.
wakefilioso 1 year ago
In Sweden we call that "a safe corner".
Almost identical as this.
findingusernamesux11 2 years ago
@ rigge1988. I can't find anything about the hinge-method on youtube. Is there an video available? I always use the method shown on the video shown here, but I believe man can never learn enough to make his live easier and saver ;-)
fred06509 2 years ago
you should use the hinge-method which is far safer than that :)
Rigge1988 2 years ago
Sure, I normally would. I just wanted to make a video of a "boring" cut, that was all. A lot of faffing around for a tree that doesn't really need it otherwise! :-)
mikepepler 2 years ago
@mikepepler
Don't you ALWAYS use the hinge-method???
I use that for every tree I take down, no mather what the cut I use.
findingusernamesux11 2 years ago
Yes, I'd say 90% of trees I fell are with a standard hinge. Most of the rest are using a split-level hinge, and then there's the very occasional boring cut - but probably only one a year on average!
mikepepler 2 years ago
not so sure about your back cut - but the rest looked good.
archerofloaf 2 years ago
Yes, I agree. I used to do them that way, but I've been convinced that flat back cut is better. Mike
mikepepler 2 years ago
that is good to hear! learning is good
archerofloaf 2 years ago
how do you avoid kickback when making the slot in the middle
ArmyBoy015 2 years ago
You should really go on a course to learn this bit, that's what I did. or learn with an expert you know. The trick is that you don't just go straight in, you start with the the underside of the tip of the bar, where there's no kickback. Once you've created a groove in the tree you can then carefully pivot the saw round until it's pointing straight through the tree. Because the tip of the bar is sitting in the groove it can't kick back, it's held in place. Like I said though, get some training...
mikepepler 2 years ago
Just taught somebody that trick a few weeks ago. Just in the nick of time, too!
madhatte73 2 years ago
either start cutting at 10 or 2 o'clock on the bar end, then pull it round to 12 o clock and bore through.
al9rupture 2 years ago
when ur working with heavy head leaners aways stand beside the tree when ur doing the back cut so just in case its does barberchair it won't smack you in the face
dcook395 2 years ago
Yes, definitely. Last thing you should do is lean round the back of it, or it can take your head off. One of the most common causes of fatalities felling trees I believe...
mikepepler 2 years ago
Dude, that's why we bore cut; so it can't happen. Once you bore in and cut back properly, there's zero potential of barber-chair.
n1ztb 2 years ago
This type of cut works best when the tree is decayed and you have a tag line to a loader, as in a california pepper. Theres times where you place a back cut and only one side has hingewood and the other side is decayed out, causing the tree to fall to one side. I have been usuing this cut for a several years on decayed trees, never knew what it was called.
beenerkillz 3 years ago
That makes sense - I learned it in the context of heavily leaning trees, which may split suddenly with a normal felling cut, but I guess a decayed tree is even more unstable, so benefits from it as well. I've never felled anything really decayed though - sweet chestnut is durable, so the dead ones I've felled have still been in one solid piece.
Mike
mikepepler 3 years ago
I agree with the release or trigger analysis; "The cut you used for the back cut, the "trigger," should have been horizontal and slightly lower than the plunge.
The purpose of the trigger cut being slightly lower is that there would be almost no risk of the tree grabbing the saw out of your hands.
===========
A point missed so far is how little hinge you left.
More control with a larger hinge and you were probably very close to pinching your bar.
billoutwest 3 years ago
You're right, the hinge was way too small.
It's kind of embarrassing looking back at videos of me cutting trees as a beginner - I've had more practice now. I probably should have picked a bigger tree for the video...
The reason it worked despite the small hinge is probably that the sweet chestnut fibres are remarkably strong - even small hinges hold on pretty well. I've cut sycamore since, and it's completely different - even a large hinge will easily break while the tree is coming down.
Mike
mikepepler 3 years ago
called a dog tooth man
jessicarabbit1980 3 years ago
There is a lot here that i dont understand but i enjoyed the vidio and the comments
Aprenticewoodspoiler 3 years ago
Nice cutting mate , Im a trainee tree surgeon and it makes me feel safe when i work with guys like yourself who clearly know what their doing! Matt
FunkernickelRemedy 3 years ago
Thanks :-) Where are you training/working? Anywhere near me? (I'm in Rye, East Sussex)
mikepepler 3 years ago
The cut you used for the back cut, the "trigger," should have been horizontal and slightly lower from the plunge cut.
The purpose of the trigger cut being slightly lower is that there would be no possibility of getting the saw stuck in the wood.--It is called "cutting into the step."
If you continue to make your back cut like (when boring a leaning tree) that you increase the risk of the tree grabbing the saw out of your hands.
You know what I mean brother?
jampmayer 3 years ago
That's a good point, I see exactly what you mean.
My trainer showed me the way I did it, with the choice of a flat or sloping cut - the idea for the sloping one is it's guaranteed to intersect the plunge cut. Idon't think he mentioned the idea of cutting slightly below, but I'll see him in a few weeks so will try to remember to ask.
I'll try your method next time I get a chance, although it might be a while as the work we've planned for this winter doesn't include many large trees.
Mike
mikepepler 3 years ago
Yep, I've been advised that although the sloping cut works, a flat cut slightly lower is better, as you said. That's what I'll be doing from now on.
Mike
mikepepler 3 years ago
Having fell timber most of life the one thing I always stress is safety and as your vids are viewed by many who may of just picked up saw for first time I was wondering if you could mention that cutting or boring streight in with tip one must be carefull of kickback. I patched and packed too many good men out, not all alive, and yes even cut myself a time or two, both hurt like hell to go through.
Presstitute 3 years ago 2
I agree entirely - I did the NPTC training and passed the exam for this kind of work - safety is paramount. I'll amend the main description to recommend people don't try this without training. My videos are on here for interest only, not instruction...
Cheers, Mike
mikepepler 3 years ago
Thank you for your response.
With respect towards you, Cheers Always.
Presstitute 3 years ago
This is playing at falling a tree. Making a simple job complicated. Noticed tree also had heavy side lean and was quite small. Why not fall it sideways.Damn ground as flat as a pancake to begin with and playing is fine if you do not have to produce.
Presstitute 3 years ago
Of course it was playing - I wouldn't have my wife filming up close if it was a dangerous tree to fell. We are producing though - last weekend I help customers load 6 tonnes of logs to take away.
For us though, owning and managing a woodland is meant to be fun, as well as hard work, so we make sure to take some time to "play" :-) Check our blog out for more (see link on my profile page).
Mike
mikepepler 3 years ago
what is the knife looking thing you carry on your belt?
mccormickchainsaw 3 years ago
It's a billhook, used for cutting off branches after felling a tree, and other things too. Can cut through a 1-inch branch in one go with the right technique.
mikepepler 3 years ago
doesn't every logger carry one? lol
seizetheweakened 3 years ago
we did this in college it was called a dog thooth cut its to be used when felling a small tree in the direction its leaning helps prevent the top snapping out & prevent the butt end to come back & kick up which could hit you :)
kiza2468 3 years ago
Spot on! That's exactly what it's for. Where are you studying?
mikepepler 3 years ago
i was studying in Merrist Woods im hoping to go back there soon & get my CS 38 & CS 39would also like to do my medium & large felling tickets. where abouts you studying? :)
kiza2468 3 years ago
Nice job. Great PPE hard hat,chaps and the whole nine yards
stihlthebest 3 years ago
Hi Mike, no worries. Like I said , great video. We all just had a big old disucssion on the sloping backcut at arboristsite dot c and it was pretty much decried. But that was mostly and anlysis in bigger PNW trees. The main concern was breakingout the back of the cut if wedging was needed. Since this is a leaner I reckon the concern wont apply. Nice to see different stuff like the felling lever. Thanks.
oldbearswitch 4 years ago
Cheers oldbearswitch :-)
There's some more stuff about our wood on our blog (peplers dot blogspot dot com).
Surprised you'd not seen a felling lever though? I guess on a larger tree you have to use wedges (I have these too), but for our coppicing, the lever is quick and easy to use. It also has a cant hook, for turning hung up trees to loosen them, or rolling logs.
Cheers, Mike
mikepepler 4 years ago
Its all good except for that hokey sloping backcut. goo ddemo!
oldbearswitch 4 years ago
When I did my training we were told we could do the back cut flat or sloping. I think the sloping cut was a Scandinavian tradition. Not sure it has any particular advantage, though perhaps it's easier to get it to meet the slot?
mikepepler 4 years ago