Added: 3 years ago
From: hastolloy
Views: 65,130
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  • sorry to say but thats not mdf thats beaver puke

  • It's all gloood, not scrooood... Hehehe

  • jeesus christ its called poli fill

  • The way you talk pissed me off imensly!

  • YOU NEED BRACING---DAMPENING OF CABINETS--DE COUPLING THE SPEAKERS---X OVER WELL SEPARATED FROM VIBRATIONS--TWEETER IS BETTER, MUCH BETTER OUTSIDE OF THE CABINET---IT WILL BE A MUCH CLEARER SOUND---NOT A GREAT PROJECT!!! CHECK MY NEW DIY BLACK MOMSTERS---

  • @hitachi654 Old school Wharfedale speakers were filled with sand.

  • Hum...Looks like a Troels Gravensen design.Really good if you ask me.

  • That is not MDF board for your info

  • nice

  • how do they sound

  • Hello I was wondering if u coul help me design a speaker box for a 2 way spreaker system im useing a 5.25 inch woofer and a dome tweeter i want them to be small enough to fit on my desktop but large enogh to reproduce good sound quality thats i hope u can help

  • Not bad at all. I have to agree though, that does look more like particle board than MDF. You know, there is software out there to test and optimize a speaker's perfomance, like "True RTA". I build some bookshelf speakers that are 10

    ' wide x 20" high x 8" deep. I build in a "rat maze" and put 3 ports in. One on each side and one in the back. You can walk passed it, behind it, hold your hand in front of it, around anywhere and the sound level never changes. 2 yrs of messing about. Great video.

  • maybe some nice tolex? or a veneer?

  • did u use 1 channel for the sub, mid, and tweeter?

  • 1.7 cubes on a 10?

    wow, thats a tad big.

  • with the fill its gonna act even bigger lol

  • nah black is boring. wood color is the best for spakers

  • wow nice work. you realy put the time into this, like a pro. Again nice..

  • Hope you can answer this question..

    I've bought an Active PA-loudspeaker 600 Watt.. That i will also power up a Passive speaker. But for the moment i do not have that passive speaker.. I want to build one..

    What components Must i have for it to work. THe Active speaker have the Speakon connection.. Why is speakon connectors special??? And am i right i'll need : HighFreq Driver and Horn, Mid/Bass element, Filter, what more?

  • im a speaker junkie too just look at my house, not a room without several speakers. except the bathrooms of course

  • Nice work, good craftmanship. For asthetics what would you think about skinning the box with a modern countertop material. maybe a shinny grey marble look or something. I was also thinking about skinning with plexiglass, possibly painted on the innerside , shinny on the out. It's nice to see there are other speaker junkies like me. It can be a lonesome passion right up till the neighbors call the cops. VOLUME !!

  • have you build any thing big that what you have on you tube and when was your last video?

  • This is my first and latest speaker video...Its spring time hear in Wisconsin so its out doors I go...wont have any new speaker videos till late fall....

  • vistaton cabinet project? or something else?

  • This speaker is a G3 from ACI. About 20 years ago.

  • ur right that seem not like MDF board,

    it seem like cheap board.

    but it a great DIY loudspeaker...

  • FYI, that's particle board not MDF. The speaker is really a ACI G3 from years back. I actually have those drivers and just got the Xover drawing from Mike D the owner of ACI. How did it sound? I'd really like to know.

  • I think they sound great...Friends say they sound great...Wife says there to big and too loud

  • That's girlspeak for perfectly shaped and sounding! And also, the money could've been used for shoes, home repair, and makeup!

  • @docrw

    You are right- it is not MDF, or HDF, but old fashioned particle board

  • Good luck finding High Density Fiberboard(HDF)...a local lumber yard was trying to pass of Medium Density Fiberboard as HDF...The thing I did was to glue to 3/4" MDF to make a 1 1/2 boards...What v8malibu is talking about...is to take two boards, keeping them seperated, say an inch, and filling the gap between the two with concrete...it can be done but very time consuming...What I think helped for the speakers in this video was that I glued accustical ceiling tiles on the inside of the cabinets.

  • MDF due to its extremely low porosity and medium density. The best enclosure would probably be two MDF enclosures built inside eachother with a space in between filled with concrete to create an enclosure with a really low resonating frequency..lower then audible. You need to coat the outside of the inside box with resin and the inside of the outside box as well so they don't absorb moisture from the concrete.

  • I agree with you on all points...What I read some time ago that some one used sand instead of concrete...however I need to finish these speakers in my life time not my grandchildrens.

  • Whats up partner...Audiophile..

    Do you know of a decent source to get HDF

    High Density Fiberboard..

    I never thought of filling the inner box sidings with concrete....I think I will try that and let you know what i think...

    Keep in touch fellow audiophile...

  • The material you choose is not a good choice. Low density Particle board is known to leak air and have an inconsistent density which causes some of the chamber to resonant at a different frequency then other parts of the enclosure resulting in distortion. You could improve the sound of your 10" "sub" by installing a board dividing the space into a triangle tapering down from the driver end to the opposite end and exiting through a port in the front of the box below the 5" midrange 2" tall.

  • what type of material should I have used?

  • well its good for 10 " woofer most of towers are made of it cause it gives good sound from tweeter and midbass

  • I would fill that enclosure with some solids. You low mids will disappear and cause higher excursion levels I would imagine. Along with that prolly lose some SPL as well. Im planning on building my first set soon. So I ordered a few books and so on.

  • I was thinking the same....I just need to secure them good enough so that the solid is not jumping and rattling around...Thanks

  • Thanks...but it looks like I made a mistake in my calulations

  • This midrange your using doesnt seem like it would need .5 cubic feet or even .2 for that matter. Is this mid a open or closed back?

  • It's a open back....and yes I messed up big time..my newest and latest measurements show that the mid/bass chamber should be .137 cubic feet...tooo late now though...guess we'll have to wait to see how this will affect the mid/bass

  • Since your mid chamber is WAY bigger than you planned, you may have enough airspace to port that chamber, and get better results

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