Added: 2 years ago
From: myfordboy
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  • I'd recomend you using a thicker crucible, so it cools slower w¡hen you take it out of the furnace

  • 1:01

    "Gee honey, I have no idea why the cake smells like concrete."

  • What temperature can you reach?  Would you be able to reach melting point of Iron or steel if you would pump air.

  • @BOROZ28 The refactory in this furnace is only suitable for aluminium.

  • @myfordboy OK, I see. I am thinking on building something that will be able to melt up to cast Iron passing by aluminum as metal of preference. I still don't know about the design but will buy the books that you suggest.Very clean and well explained videos. Thanks for answering.

  • Just wonder if you think a upwind burner would work well for this set up and what you think of the upwind burner in general also great job on you video seires thank you for all the great info

  • @TheElladan76 It would be fine. Mine is basicaly the same with the gas inlet comming from the back rather than the side.

  • Great videos! Looking into getting the components to make my own foundry. Looks like the KOS fire cement is shipped from the UK? Can you tell me what size container I'd need to order to make your furnace. Good Stuff! Thanks!

  • @Ronclayist I used 2 x 12.5KG tubs. You would not need to import the fire cement. Equivalent in US is Black Worcester Brush brand or Meeco. More details at myfordboy .blogspot. com

  • Thanks for taking the time to make this very helpful video! The additional info on your blogspot is also excellent and greatly appreciated!

  • nice, but in vietnam, i like to used a beecave coal with the snail fan, cheap and powerful too, but you know it's very harm to your health t_t

  • Fantastic videos.

    I was wondering, is there anything special about your neck tube, or is it just a pipe with a thread at one end?

  • @thequeenofspades Its a pipe with a nozzle and slots for the air inlet. I can send you a drawing if you give me your email address.

  • @thequeenofspades Steel is not realy a metal you would cast. My furnace is only good for aluminium or brass as the refactory cannot withstand the higher temeratures.

  • One question, if I can.

    What would happen if I only use perlite without fire cement?

    I put a container inside another, and between the two I'll put only perlite

    It would be so much easier to move and store. But perlite alone, works as refractory?

  • @FlyToSardinia You need the cement to make a hot face for the furnace. Some people use polysyrene beads in place of perlite. The beads burn away when the furnace is first fired. So the cement is necessary.

  • could you also send me the designs for your furnace

    mario200849@yahoo.com

    this would really help me get started

  • fantastic job bud!!

  • you sir, i say this with the utmost respect, are a freak! love your work.

  • How do you mix the firecement and the perlite? Would it achieve the same result mixing fireclay (dry) and perlite and adding water to that mix? 

  • @fleximill Add a little water to the fire cement then add the perlite . Wear plastic gloves and mix with your hands.

    Make it as dry as you can so it will dry out quicker. Not sure if fireclay will dry the same as firecement.

  • @myfordboy Great, thanks for that. I'm so impressed by what you do that I have to have a go myself. I'm gathering up what's needed so that I can start around Easter hopefully. Your patterns are works of art in themselves. Did you buy any books on patternmaking?

  • @fleximill I learnt most of what I know from the 2 books by B Terry Aspin.The backyard Foundry & Foundrywork for the amateur. Recommended reading. I was an aeromodeller before a model engineer so I guess the pattern making skill came from that.

  • Also, I'm curious could someone cast a cylinder head from home and take it to a shop to get machined, or would that be too intricate to cast at home?

  • @jamesandrewjohnson Not impossible but a lot of work

  • What do you use for a crucible if you're melting steel or iron? I think it's safe to assume you wouldn't use steel as the crucible itself would melt. And how do you control the temperature so the crucible doesn't melt?

  • @jamesandrewjohnson Crucibles for iron would be of Silicon Carbide or other non metalic material.

  • @myfordboy I see, thanks for the reply.

  • Crucibles last about 8 or 10 melts.

  • @myfordboy what kind of temperatures can this furnace design handle? i am interested in making steel and small knives. i dont really know much about this subject though.

  • @hello12345kk you will probebly need to use like stonecoal or koks to melt steel ^^ if u want to make knives and stuff you should try blacksmithing :)

  • Your videos are exceptional, thank you for uploading them. How long are your crucibles lasting before they burn through? Thank you

  • what do your wooden formers look like before you put them in the rolled up sheet steel and what is the depth of the bottom, and the sides of the foundry? could you do a short video on this stage?

  • @m3952ike Wooden formers are just discs of MDF for the inside and a square with a round hole for the external one. Bottom is 2 3/4" thick, sides are 2 1/8"

  • @myfordboy Do you know what the one thing I notice about your videos are? Well besides all the great casting info, are the cars that pass by and the birds; but more so the birds I hear! What kind of birds are they? :) -Thanks for the 4:1 ratio tip!

  • @dreamtoneamps ha!

    The camera mike seems to pick up those cars like they are driving straight past me.

    I like the bird songs. You can hear blackbird , chaffinch, sparrow and wood pigeons.

  • Hello

    I am just about to replace my old burnt out coak melting furnace and knead a bit of help, if you would be so good.

    1. What gauge steal did you use for the case.

    2. How much fire cement will I need?

    3. Where did you find your crucible.

    4. Any dimensions would be welcomed especially the burner neck tube

    Many thanks.

  • Bravo! Your series of videos are fantastic. Model engineering at its very best.

  • Very cool, thank you for putting this out I have learned allot and I am in the process of building my own

  • I cant wait to make one. :)

  • Thank you very much for these videos! These are very informative and helpful.

    I'm planning my own furnace and I'm having little trouble in figuring out the burner. I have a similar burner than what you show in this video. Is your necktube just a straight pipe apart from the connection part and the air holes close to the handle or are there some inner shapes and/or nozzles inside the necktube that do not show on the video?

  • There is nothing inside the tube. There are air holes at the bottom as you sugest and a nozzel to control gas flow. The burner will not light outside the furnace unless a cone is added to the tip. Gas pressure is 2 bar. I can let you have a drawing of my design if you PM me your email.

  • @myfordboy Hi could you send me the drawing of your design. Temp email address normanw@webmail.co.za

  • All the videos in this set are very interesting and infomative. Best on youtube. All without speaking, as well! Great camera work and presentation.Thanks for posting and sharing your considerable expertise.

  • Awsome! but I plan to use kerosine, I was told that a babington with a oil feed wil smelt iron. but I do like the foundery case you show. it is nice clean and simple.Thanks. from Rick.

  • Hi, excellent videos and casting finish. a great help for the home foundry.

    It looks as though you have used a paint tin for the internal former. Did you cut the bottom off in order to get it out and did you put any form of release on it? Thanks.

  • The former is a plastic paint "tin". It was a 5 ltr size with 10 or 20 % free. So its a bit taller than the regular size. I don't remember using a release agent, the refractor y shinks a little when it dries so it came out without any problems.

  • Thanks for the info on the paint tin. Sorry, another question. I am making up a burner to screw on the end of my Bullfinch torch. Is your burner just a piece of steel tube with air holes at the cold end, or is there a jet in it somewhere? Thanks

  • How long do you bake the furnace and at what temp? How did you make the lid and why? Thanks!

  • You need to build up the temperature slowly to prevent cracking. I put a light bulb inside for a few days, Then put it in the kitchen oven on full and finaly used the furnace burner on gentle heat for a while. You can see by the colour when its dry.

    Lid made same way as furnace. not essential but keeps the heat in a bit.

  • @myfordboy Do you start heating it after the cement has set or while it is still setting? How long should it stay in the oven?

  • Great I found it after I posted my last comment. Questions though,Was the filler tube hard to remove where the neck tube for the propane burner is located? What was the T shape PVC fitting for on the underside before you added the mix?

  • I don't remember that there was any problem removing the tube. Just twist and pull.

    The idea of the T shape was to make an outlet for the metal to escape if the crucible breaks. If I made another I would incease the size of the hole from 3/4 to 1 1/2 as when my crucible broke the metal solidified in the hole!!

  • Thanks from Canada, for your series of videos. Very informative and I can't wait to get my furnace up and running to cast some parts.

  • yes this is great, love how the casts are made

  • great work

  • A Smashing video, Very neat workmanship.

    Are you now divorced ?

    ( using the wifes cooker) :)

  • well made!! great video!!!

  • Yet another great video! Thanks! Could you please show us the details of the neck tube for the propane burner?

  • Exelent video, very interesting.

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