Added: 1 year ago
From: jaydorner
Views: 1,287
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  • Great advise, how many lock picking sets are they, I work for the n.h.s and am forever breaking into offices, but to do so I always break the lock, any advice or kit I can get ?

  • Jay, got the multi lock padlock off it was hardest job I've ever done it was for one of are big contracts so was important to not let them down, it was about 3 foot off the floor on a gate in a field incased in a metal welded box all round the lock had to do it laid on my back looking up at it thanks alot for the advice, top man!

  • not alot left of the lock left i'm afraid,after much unsuccessful picking attempts using a 2 in 1 as its curtained,i tried drilling through the hardplate to give me a looksie and play hole,like as shown in the drilling tutorials you have,drills were carbide tipped and they burned out and snapped,i suspect iwas getting too wet and tired and frustrated at this point so i attacked it big style, not very professional i now,got the job done though,can understand what your saying about the era tool

  • cheers pal, any more vids coming up ?do you have a vid of one lock that i struggled like hell with to open it was a euro star easi t 5 lever,complete sod to do, and secondly have you heard/used a method of opening the era bs lock,using a shaped piece of wire to go in through the gaps of the lever pack and lift them from the inside,in fact itd work with most lever packs which have open /cutaway sides,closed h's wouldnt though,did that make sense,have you had any success with it,

  • @gandelff999 Not had that lock before, but if you have it still and want to send it I can do a vid for you, then return the lock (and any tools that I make for it as a freebie?)

    I know the picking tool you mean for the ERA Fortress but in all honesty don't waste you time, money or effort with it. Very, very hit and miss and ask yourself why you don't see a demo of the lock being opened right mounted..Mmmm?

  • brilliantly done again fella, a true refresher for the brain cells,when your on a lock job with this type of lock,do you remove the front door handle and housing or just got through the key way,reason i ask is that training on a bench vice is differant,and the tension used or i should say the position of your hands in relation to the tension wrench changes ,similar to opening a euro lock in your hand,try it in a door and the two differances in body position and feeling on thewrench chane

  • @gandelff999 It's all much the same in a door or in a vice, with both the opening and the tension etc. If it was a sash lock and the handles were getting in the way then I would remove them. The same with any escutcheon that may be in place on a standard dead bolt, remove it if it gets in the way?

  • Is 16 guage wire ok for this ........or a bike spoke that is slightly thicker but stronger?

    Great vid.

  • @bouncer965 16 gauge is ideal. Anything thicker could mean missing the first or last lever, depending on handing, due to the bends in the wire to form the lifters.

  • Jay, top vid again got a couple of questions for you, where do u get all this sprung steel and what gauge is it? Also I need to open a big black multi lock padlock for a customer think it's a c series it has a metal box welded round it with multi lock logos stamped in so can't get in to cut it off and don't have the dedicated picks for it, is it best to drill the pins in the plug or next to the plug and pop out the pins like on a euro when you drill under the plug???

  • @northenpicker86 You can get spring steel (piano wire) from most good model making shops or online model shops. The guge used for the overlift wires, and most wire pick is 16swg. Thetension tools are normaly 13 or 14swg, but sometimes smaller dependent on the size of the keyway.

  • @northenpicker86 The Mul-t-Lock you need to open, and as you don't have the picks, can indeed be drilled but I would recommend using a Carbide drill bit, or a good Hardplate bit. Drill it in the same way you would any cylinder going for the Sheer line, half plug and half lock body on the pin side. Count through the pins as you drill and use the rule of drill, stop, check, drill, stop, check ect, removing pins and springs as you progress.

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