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  • Looks good buddy, that little old run will block out in seconds with some 800 grit.. and as for 'adhesion promotor' ..! thats posh, i have always used a couple of light coats of neat thinners through the gun to melt the existing paint, then while its still tacky, hit it with a coat of primer...but i guess there is always a 'product' to do the same.. good going guys.. Take care.. Del.

  • @Moonfleet41 I figured that adhesion promoter was snake oil! Good suggestion on using thinner to melt the plastic and prime it while it is still tacky, will try that some time.

  • looks good Gary and Matt. Hopin to get caught up on all my videos to watch tonite.

  • Epoxy primer doesn`t stop rust so it sound`s like something else is the cause.

  • looks good gary,thats a hard place to paint and not bump anything,i remember,lol,nice job guys,take care

  • @TheRickfix Thanks Rick!

  • yup you'll be able to block that run out. Looks good to me. Spraying primer is a great time to get some gun time in and practice before paint. Try keeping the air going on the gun instead of letting off on the trigger all the way at the end of each pass.. Nice pour spout on the primer can!

  • @slowsrt Thanks Matt. I have noticed you and other painters keeping the air going but letting off enough to stop the fluid, but I haven't quite mastered that yet, but will work on it. What is the advantage of keeping the air going?

  • @turbocobra I don't know, probably something about keeping a steady airflow or something. Someone smarter and better with explaining things like Jeff would probably be able to answer this better for you lol..

  • Back in the early 90`s we took a piece of steel blasted it and applied a couple of coat`s of epoxy primer and brought it to were by boat was moored and hung it off the pier so that it would be in the water[Salt] at high tide and out at low tide for the season and it never rusted or came off...

  • @homotorsports Interesting test. I have always hear that epoxy creates this air tight bond that nothing can penetrate, but maybe all epoxies are not the same? That car in Darrin's shop with the rust coming up under the epoxy is alarming.

  • Hey Gary vary nice job, but I couldn't let you be the only one priming, got the car all taped up and I got my firewall and door jams done tonight, just uploading the video now, might take a bit lol I think you might be ok after sanding that spot. One of the nice things with the RM primer is you can sand it the next day, does not shrink!

    Oh and nice tool set you got :)

    Great job buddy!

  • @Rasd4Metta Cool Rob, just watched your video and commented on your channel. I am not sure about the Upol primer, I am allowing 2 days @ 75 degrees for some shrinkage. when we paint the car I will allow longer whether the tech sheet says its required or not :)

  • what size compressor is that?

  • @MrGurudude5 Its a cheapo CH 80 gallon

  • Can't beat a small cordless impact! Best tool ever our hobby!

  • @zz3astro Yes, will be great for reassembling all the suspension. It's got enough torque to snug the bolts/nuts down, but not twist the bolts off like the air one, and just tighten on down by hand from there

  • the run will sand, no problem. you did the right thing filling it.

  • @gregmporter Cool, thanks for the confirmation greg!

  • Comment removed

  • Nice a devilbiss finishline 3 and nice work on the primer

  • epoxy usualy calls for an 80 gritt scratch on bare metal so is a mechanical adhesion the etch is a chemical adhesion that actually etches into the steel its a for sure bond as vwdarrin would say and if you ever etch primer something and tried to sand it off its next to impossible its even hard to sandblast off so you know for sure your getting a good bond.

  • @killerpontiacta Thanks, yes Darrin just explained in his video from this morning. BTW, the tech sheet on the Omni epoxy called for 180 grit scratches on metail.

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