@infrabasse Spot meter your sky and then spot meter your grass. If you have more than 6 stops between (which is usual), something's got to give! I shoot an image for the sky and an image for the ground and blend in photoshop, but I'm mostly talking dawn/sunset/magic hour here. For high noon, you're probably OK. - Edward
Wow, thqt make so much sense! Can you do it the other way around to? Always when i shoot at night the dark parts gey, well, grey. Can i just stop down 3 steps to make the black, black?
You were Bang On!! Even before this video, I tried to expose my Computer monitor (LED) and took a shot of plane MS word document (which is white) and got a grey image. I change my meter, +1 stop the +2 and then +3... I got a white on +3 :). This was a great info to have.
My question is how to assess what thing (or object ) produces 18% grey while shooting. I know that the grass produces 18% grey, even the sky produces close to 18% grey.
@DWScorp Get a "grey card" they sell them at photo stores and you can spot meter that and then whatever matches that reading in your scene is 18% grey reflective. - Edward
Hi Edward, clear and concise as always mate! But, could you please give us a few brief examples to which metering mode would best benefit us in the real world? I'm guessing, Evaluative metering for general L/scapes and group shots? Centre, for close-ups/macro and portraiture and Spot for tricky low contrast subjects like snow scenes/water or storm skys/clouds etc? Hope I'm thinking in the ball park anyways? Much appreciated, Darreyl.
@MrDazza64 Thanks! Yes, you are absolutely right. Though truth be told, I find it more expedient to shoot in evaluative 99.9% of the time and use exposure compensation. I sometimes switch to spot if I'm curious, I can't remember the last time I used center weighted... - Edward
I see you're trying to focus on the white board to get the metering but then you aren't when pointing at the window. Does the focus make a big difference in spot metering and the other modes ?
@infrabasse Pretty much wherever you put the "spot" is what get's metered. (Don't pay too much attention to the out the window/white board example! :) ) What you do need to know is what your camera is choosing for the spot. Some cameras link the Active Af point to the spot meter. You should be able to choose that method or "spot in the center always" in your menu system. - Edward
Gr8 explanation, thx!
stargirl1207 2 days ago
The K-5 has 77, 11 columns across 7 rows.
pabl0hassan 3 months ago
So in practice, if I meter on grass, will that make sure I don't burn out my skies?
I have a hard time understanding how grass is constantly 18% grey in different light/brightness conditions.
What if I AE-L on the brightest part of the picture like a cloud for ex? That'll make sure my sky isn't burnt out.
It'd save time not taking preview shots.
If I want to maximise the use of the sensor's dynamic range I should probably compensate by 2 (3?) stops to make my cloud white without burning it?
infrabasse 3 months ago
Comment removed
infrabasse 3 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@infrabasse Then I can correct my exposure in post, being confident I haven't lost any detail when I took the shot.
What do you think of that ?
infrabasse 3 months ago
@infrabasse Spot meter your sky and then spot meter your grass. If you have more than 6 stops between (which is usual), something's got to give! I shoot an image for the sky and an image for the ground and blend in photoshop, but I'm mostly talking dawn/sunset/magic hour here. For high noon, you're probably OK. - Edward
photouniverse 3 months ago
Wow, thqt make so much sense! Can you do it the other way around to? Always when i shoot at night the dark parts gey, well, grey. Can i just stop down 3 steps to make the black, black?
jojjebros 3 months ago
You were Bang On!! Even before this video, I tried to expose my Computer monitor (LED) and took a shot of plane MS word document (which is white) and got a grey image. I change my meter, +1 stop the +2 and then +3... I got a white on +3 :). This was a great info to have.
My question is how to assess what thing (or object ) produces 18% grey while shooting. I know that the grass produces 18% grey, even the sky produces close to 18% grey.
DWScorp 3 months ago
@DWScorp Get a "grey card" they sell them at photo stores and you can spot meter that and then whatever matches that reading in your scene is 18% grey reflective. - Edward
photouniverse 3 months ago
Hi Edward, clear and concise as always mate! But, could you please give us a few brief examples to which metering mode would best benefit us in the real world? I'm guessing, Evaluative metering for general L/scapes and group shots? Centre, for close-ups/macro and portraiture and Spot for tricky low contrast subjects like snow scenes/water or storm skys/clouds etc? Hope I'm thinking in the ball park anyways? Much appreciated, Darreyl.
MrDazza64 3 months ago
@MrDazza64 Thanks! Yes, you are absolutely right. Though truth be told, I find it more expedient to shoot in evaluative 99.9% of the time and use exposure compensation. I sometimes switch to spot if I'm curious, I can't remember the last time I used center weighted... - Edward
photouniverse 3 months ago
Thanks for the great videos.
jarhead262 3 months ago
@jarhead262 I am very appreciative of the people who enjoy them! Glad I could be helpful! - Edward
photouniverse 3 months ago
Thanks Ed that does clear things up a bit.
I see you're trying to focus on the white board to get the metering but then you aren't when pointing at the window. Does the focus make a big difference in spot metering and the other modes ?
infrabasse 3 months ago
@infrabasse Pretty much wherever you put the "spot" is what get's metered. (Don't pay too much attention to the out the window/white board example! :) ) What you do need to know is what your camera is choosing for the spot. Some cameras link the Active Af point to the spot meter. You should be able to choose that method or "spot in the center always" in your menu system. - Edward
photouniverse 3 months ago