I need a littyle help from the people on this comment page. I have a home with plaster board and its cracked all over the walls and I want to just put fresh sheet rock over the existing walls to cover it up. Now..do i install 1"x4" boards onto the plaster board and screw them into the lathes behind the plaster...then I'll have a 1" gap for adding some insulation and then install a vapor barrier and just screw the new sheetrock over that? I know it may sound crazy..but im trying save space
Just sheet right over the old plaster and lath with new drywall. There's no need to add any 1X4's or vapor barrier unless you're deliberately trying to add insulation by creating a "space" between the old plaster and new drywall. In that case, I would just rip all the plaster and lath out and insulate it the correct way (between the existing studs) and use a 6 mil vapor barrier then new drywall.
Gees, everyone knows that the moisture barrier goes on the warm side of the insulation. Stops moisture from settleing on it. If the plastic is cold, fog settles on it just like it settles on a window. If the plastic is warm there won't be any fog on it.
The water outside is kept outside by an external sealer.
This way is just asking for mold in the wall and a musty smell
by putting plastic that does not breath you took away the air space.. if your going to do this why not just put your studs right against the plastic? . one warm side is hard enough to control why create another.
why do you think that you put poly down on your inside basement walls because of moisture.... there is no ways to eliminate it all but you have to find a way to let it dry... Now this is why you don't put studs right against the block walls or poured foundation that 2 in air space is needed its the buffer so when it does get moist in when you get alot of rain or snow or you just happen to live in a spot where the ground has high moisture content this will let the moisture be controled.
you have created 2 warm sides here with this application ... you might get away with this in arizona or the sahara dessert but this will not work in B.C . your not only trapping moisture which yes i agree the moisture will stay on the back side of the plastic for a little bit but once it accumulates mold mold mold... but you are also creating a condensation problem moisture controls temprature in a situation like this. All i can say is i hope you live somewhere where it is warm and dry allways
there is know way to control the moisture that happens between the back side of your cross walls and your basement walls cement will let moisture through... do you know how much it is going to rain this year this week this decade do you know how much moisture will be in the ground around the outside of your house for its duration? no you don't !!! so how can you put something like this up. moisture always forms on the warm side.... so ... look down
Wow after 15 years of insulating and many hours getting r200 zero cost certified I now know that engineers and the teachers that taught me were wrong! Putting poly on the back side of the wall doesn't trap the moisture from the cement and cause it to deteriorate.. Hell no! Oh and encapsulating the insulation makes it work better even though the insulation is designed to have a 20% pressure air movement to make it work at its maximum. Seal it up and drop the R Value! Fuck everyone your the king!
Plastic is a vapor retarder. It's not a barrier. It doesn't stop all vapor transfer. The method in this video will cause moisture to develop and never dry. Mold will flourish.
You idiots dont realize hes putting up two barriers, one for moisture, paper backed insulation with staples egdes, then final 6 mil plastic again to totally encapsulate the studs and insulation. Very Very Efficient...
plus if your basement is exposed at least 1-2ft from the outside then the moisture will be evaporated by the heat in the summer, and dry cold weather in the winter.
This IS NOT WRONG, and dependent on the situation, this might be the best way for this application. Although this would work anywhere provided you have another vapor barrier/polyethlene over the stud sandwiching the insulation and studs from both sides. In other words two vapor barriers. One on the concrete, and one under the drywall, you will never get moisture in between. People dont understand that the moisture problem, happens on the inside of the plastic and not btween the plastic and cemen
i have seen plastic on the the studs then drywall over that. venting the moisture from the wall and perimeter of the slab where it meets up with wall. but i have not seen a vid on it yet please let me know if anyone comes across one.
A retarded clam knows that vapor barrier on a basement wall traps moisture (1) waterproof the basement (2) build a stud wall (3) vapor barrier the bottom foot of the stud wall (4) erect the stud wall two inches away from the basement wall (5) add plumbing, electrical, etc to the stud wall (6) spray foam insulate between the concrete wall and the front edge of the stud wall. (7) vapor barrier the stud wall (8) tape. Make a Doctor's appointment Phil. Your meds are no longer working.
please at least research other sources......this guy is ass backwards and all you will get is a wall full of moisture ...the moisture travels from the house ..through the wall into the insulation and condenses on the plastic on the cold wall
please at least research other sources......this guy is ass backwards and all you will get is a wall full of moisture ...the moisture travels from the house ..through the wall into the insulation and condenses on the plastic on the cold wall
Installing a vapor barrier backwards can do more harm than good, trapping water where you should not have water. When they are necessary, vapor barriers should always go on the side of the insulation that is warm in the winter. In other words:
* In a cool or cold climate, the vapor barrier should be installed closest to the living space, against the warm wall, ceiling, or floor.
You should never install a vapor barrier on the exterior side of exterior walls, between the studs and the sheathing. This will trap moisture in the wall. Instead, using building wrap, which cuts drafts but allows moisture to escape.
Your video is popular on East Timor (Timor
rafaelsalinas58 1 month ago
I need a littyle help from the people on this comment page. I have a home with plaster board and its cracked all over the walls and I want to just put fresh sheet rock over the existing walls to cover it up. Now..do i install 1"x4" boards onto the plaster board and screw them into the lathes behind the plaster...then I'll have a 1" gap for adding some insulation and then install a vapor barrier and just screw the new sheetrock over that? I know it may sound crazy..but im trying save space
ElitePokerPlayer 1 month ago
@ElitePokerPlayer
Just sheet right over the old plaster and lath with new drywall. There's no need to add any 1X4's or vapor barrier unless you're deliberately trying to add insulation by creating a "space" between the old plaster and new drywall. In that case, I would just rip all the plaster and lath out and insulate it the correct way (between the existing studs) and use a 6 mil vapor barrier then new drywall.
boochieboy814 3 weeks ago
take this video of youtube your not an insulator you dont know enough to be giving information video's
greenthumb858 1 month ago
This video is a favorite on Indonesia
eddykoch1129 2 months ago
Gees, everyone knows that the moisture barrier goes on the warm side of the insulation. Stops moisture from settleing on it. If the plastic is cold, fog settles on it just like it settles on a window. If the plastic is warm there won't be any fog on it.
The water outside is kept outside by an external sealer.
This way is just asking for mold in the wall and a musty smell
ZijiXiji 3 months ago
by putting plastic that does not breath you took away the air space.. if your going to do this why not just put your studs right against the plastic? . one warm side is hard enough to control why create another.
gunnersplace 8 months ago
why do you think that you put poly down on your inside basement walls because of moisture.... there is no ways to eliminate it all but you have to find a way to let it dry... Now this is why you don't put studs right against the block walls or poured foundation that 2 in air space is needed its the buffer so when it does get moist in when you get alot of rain or snow or you just happen to live in a spot where the ground has high moisture content this will let the moisture be controled.
gunnersplace 8 months ago
you have created 2 warm sides here with this application ... you might get away with this in arizona or the sahara dessert but this will not work in B.C . your not only trapping moisture which yes i agree the moisture will stay on the back side of the plastic for a little bit but once it accumulates mold mold mold... but you are also creating a condensation problem moisture controls temprature in a situation like this. All i can say is i hope you live somewhere where it is warm and dry allways
gunnersplace 8 months ago
there is know way to control the moisture that happens between the back side of your cross walls and your basement walls cement will let moisture through... do you know how much it is going to rain this year this week this decade do you know how much moisture will be in the ground around the outside of your house for its duration? no you don't !!! so how can you put something like this up. moisture always forms on the warm side.... so ... look down
gunnersplace 8 months ago
Wow after 15 years of insulating and many hours getting r200 zero cost certified I now know that engineers and the teachers that taught me were wrong! Putting poly on the back side of the wall doesn't trap the moisture from the cement and cause it to deteriorate.. Hell no! Oh and encapsulating the insulation makes it work better even though the insulation is designed to have a 20% pressure air movement to make it work at its maximum. Seal it up and drop the R Value! Fuck everyone your the king!
anotherfatbastard 10 months ago 3
Plastic is a vapor retarder. It's not a barrier. It doesn't stop all vapor transfer. The method in this video will cause moisture to develop and never dry. Mold will flourish.
pheatoon 10 months ago
Comment removed
pheatoon 10 months ago
what a loser!
psycroll 11 months ago
You idiots dont realize hes putting up two barriers, one for moisture, paper backed insulation with staples egdes, then final 6 mil plastic again to totally encapsulate the studs and insulation. Very Very Efficient...
airforcedman 1 year ago
plus if your basement is exposed at least 1-2ft from the outside then the moisture will be evaporated by the heat in the summer, and dry cold weather in the winter.
airforcedman 1 year ago
This IS NOT WRONG, and dependent on the situation, this might be the best way for this application. Although this would work anywhere provided you have another vapor barrier/polyethlene over the stud sandwiching the insulation and studs from both sides. In other words two vapor barriers. One on the concrete, and one under the drywall, you will never get moisture in between. People dont understand that the moisture problem, happens on the inside of the plastic and not btween the plastic and cemen
airforcedman 1 year ago
Just finished the basement four weeks ago, now it's all coming down due to moisture traveling up the drywall.
DO NOT PUT THE BARRIER AGAINST THE CONCRETE!
Wish I had checked into this before.
Live and learn?
Rickstrains 1 year ago
DUMBO.....
1marceltony 1 year ago
Phill ..... bad job dude tare it all down ...wow
Cocher24 1 year ago
i have seen plastic on the the studs then drywall over that. venting the moisture from the wall and perimeter of the slab where it meets up with wall. but i have not seen a vid on it yet please let me know if anyone comes across one.
farstarfilms 1 year ago
A retarded clam knows that vapor barrier on a basement wall traps moisture (1) waterproof the basement (2) build a stud wall (3) vapor barrier the bottom foot of the stud wall (4) erect the stud wall two inches away from the basement wall (5) add plumbing, electrical, etc to the stud wall (6) spray foam insulate between the concrete wall and the front edge of the stud wall. (7) vapor barrier the stud wall (8) tape. Make a Doctor's appointment Phil. Your meds are no longer working.
acrausch0713 1 year ago
Is this a joke?
crystallineH20 1 year ago
Phil, how's the mold in your walls dumbass.
bryonwilliston 1 year ago
Philip I hope you learn how to do it right. You are making a mold trap. THIS IS WRONG
mpresti8 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Folks do not do what this guy has done.
This guy is totally incompetent
please at least research other sources......this guy is ass backwards and all you will get is a wall full of moisture ...the moisture travels from the house ..through the wall into the insulation and condenses on the plastic on the cold wall
MrCleanandWhite 1 year ago 2
Folks do not do what this guy has done.
This guy is totally incompetent
please at least research other sources......this guy is ass backwards and all you will get is a wall full of moisture ...the moisture travels from the house ..through the wall into the insulation and condenses on the plastic on the cold wall
MrCleanandWhite 1 year ago 2
Installing a vapor barrier backwards can do more harm than good, trapping water where you should not have water. When they are necessary, vapor barriers should always go on the side of the insulation that is warm in the winter. In other words:
* In a cool or cold climate, the vapor barrier should be installed closest to the living space, against the warm wall, ceiling, or floor.
MrCleanandWhite 1 year ago
You should never install a vapor barrier on the exterior side of exterior walls, between the studs and the sheathing. This will trap moisture in the wall. Instead, using building wrap, which cuts drafts but allows moisture to escape.
MrCleanandWhite 1 year ago
What are you gonna do with the moisture from behind the plastic?
Darin1967Spray 1 year ago