good work, although a silver dry brush is the wost thing you can do to a tank model, you should be shipping with lighter base, then black/brown, if you want the edges to look more metallic, add a little gloss to you black/brown deep chips.
@millitarychap I do, especially if you using an air brush. Tamiya has it's own brand of thinner, but I myself use rubbing alcohol. I have airbrushed with it, and there doesn't seem to be any adverse effect to the paint.
@millitarychap It depends, you have to see for yourself if the paint is good or thick. Try this, get a toothpick and put it in the paint vial. Put it out, see how the paint drips, if it drips in perfect droplets you no longer need to add thinner. If it does not drip at all or it drips in a straight line then add thinner.
I would. I used to use Tamiya paint with no thinning and it would be quite thick and dry out pretty fast. With thinning it is easier to work with and just plain goes on a lot easier. I do mostly brush painting so thinning it out is key. I do use an airbrush from time to time and thinning it out is a must. Makes the paint flow better and keeps it from clogging up the airbrush.
@millitarychap usually yes, it depends on the consistency of the colours. sometimes they are very fluid (no thinner needed) and sometimes they are viscous (thinner needed).
If a part needs to be painted in rust, why not use real rust? Simply take a steel wool sponge, soak it in hot water, put it in a paper cup and wait...... A week (or two) later you will have enough rust for two or three tanks. Mix the rust powder with matt varnish and paint it on. Doesn't get more realistic than real rust ! ;-)
@telescopereplicator i heard about that technique several times, i still found no opportunity to try it. i bought the rust pigments because they are very good to depict brick dust on ruins, in addition to real brick dust. its good to vary the colour of the rubble a bit.
@telescopereplicator because a rusty sponge only one color and rust does not lay on a surface in one bland color ... that's why most people don't bother
Hamilkar: Indeed, the rubber is darker, in most pictures. Mostly on tanks which have been used for a few weeks, already.
And speaking of rubber.... Rarely do I see modelers who age the rubber. An old, used tank has worn rubber, I guarantee it! Depending on where the tank has been in use, the damage should be a little or a lot. Dents, scratches and small pieces missing really add to the realism. Be careful NOT to overdo it ! Use pictures of the real thing for optimal accuracy.
@telescopereplicator weathering on the rubber parts of a tank makes absolutely sense, especially if we talk about early german tanks with a average service length of several months or even years. for later tanks i would be very careful doing this, because they had only a low average service lenght in the field until they got destroyed.
it is a good way to individualize a model, to create a light mine damage or something like that, but overall on every wheel - no, i wouldn´t do that.
Tracks, boxes, steel ropes, all was painted the same color. Often, camouflage was changed when necessary. So in winter, a green tank was painted white using a cloth, large bristles, oil cans, whatever would work. Carefully painted camouflage is -wrongly- only found on models, not on the real thing. They did use airbrushes, in the factory, but once they had to speed up the process, they used literally ANYTHING that could speed up the process. Paint on the "rubber" is historically correct.
Some tips for more historic accuracy: these tanks were built fast, in large numbers. They were built completely, then painted. Everything the same color. Including the rubber on the wheels. It is historically correct to paint the rubber the same color as the tank. Only when used would the paint on the rubber slowly wear off, since paint does not stick to rubber very well. So, carefully painting those rims is not correct.
I am not kidding you. Tanks were not built as well as most modelers do !
@telescopereplicator i heard about that, the reason why i prefer to paint the rubber parts of the wheels with black paint is that on almost every picture these parts are slightly darker than the rest of the wheel. anyway, it is not important at all, because usually there is dust or mud, so it is hard to see it afterwards.
Gut, dieser Panzer III gefällt mir wirklich sehr und ich werde mir diesen als Vorlage für meinen Emil nehmen.. da dieser ja auch Grau werden soll!ich habe dafür Tamiya XF 63 gekauft was i allerdings als sehr dunkel empfinde, welches Grau hast du denn genommen?Für rost nehme ich echten Rost den ich draussen von einer eisenstange abgekratzt u zermahlen habe.Ich hab mir das Revell airbrush Set mit Kompressor bestellt bei voelkner für knapp 70 euronen, kannst du das empfehlen?
@Falke40lg ich verwende für das grau immer revell matt 79, das mag ich am liebsten. der grauton deutscher panzer ist immer wieder anlass für diskussionen, geschmäcker sind eben verschieden :) ich verwende selbst ein airbrush system von rowi, das hab ich für 50 euro gekauft, ist also mit sicherheit nicht besser als das was du dir bestellt hast. zum anfangen und üben reicht ja ein billig gerät, man will ja nicht gleich ein paar hundert euro raushauen.
@Falke40lg ja tu ich :) ich weiß nicht wieviele modelle ich schon gebaut habe, wahrscheinlich zu viele! ich baue modelle seit ich 8 jahre alt bin, da kommt einiges zusammen über die jahre.
Ok I am a novice model builder and I would like to ask why do you assemble the model before painting, what I usually do is paint the unassembled parts once they are off the tree an then assemble, i usually correct any missed spots once i have it put it together, should I be using a different technique?
@FanboysSuck343 your technique is totally okay, it is the way you do a model. i showed in this video my own way to build a model and it works good for me, not necessarily for others. do it the way you like :)
@FanboysSuck343 because armor modeling does not require a high skill level,, they only require painting and weathering skills..tanks are great to start with for beginners, so they have their place.. many modelers started off with tanks than progressed from there
@HackerGuitarist .....?? WHAT..??!!..."does not require a high skill level.."?!
Man... someone needs to show you some models built by amateurs and by experienced modelers !
The difference is huge. The only advantage of tanks is that mistakes can be easily hidden by mud, camouflage, etc...
I dare you to build a tank that looks like a real one, once photographed. I have been modeling for over 35 years but building a realistic tank model is still a challenge to me.
@Falke40lg i´m sure you mean the sturer emil from trumpeter? i built that model several years ago, excellent kit for less than 15€, what else do you want :)
Would not know why 5 people had put dislike on this video, the work done was excellent, and the instructions while brief was informative and to the point, not overly boring. I really like the end result, a truly realistic looking model.
@RedTyrian maybe these people think they are genius and win every competition with their models...i don´t know. instead of appreciating my work and the time i put into the model and video to provide information about model building FOR FREE they hit the dislike button.
thank you for your kind words! i hope you enjoy my other videos aswell.
@888HamilkarBarkas888 Again me.Can you please recommend me airbrush and compressor to buy?You look like you know a lot about these,so I would greatly appreciate your advice!
@lodhol i´m using a compressor and airbrush system from rowi, its affordable and works good for the things i´m doing. i bought it on ebay for about 50€ or something like that. it was very hard to paint camo pattern with it in the beginning, but with a bit of exercise it is easy. i highly recommend the products from rowi for airbrush beginners.
@Erwin0859 i made 2 tutorials about painting figures, and for painting the wheels, well, just paint them with a brush like i did. painting a model completely with a brush works good, i did that for 10 years before i had an airbrush system.
Hello, Very interesting tutorial, I still would have a question, how do you bend the plastic to have that "bended sheet of metal" effect on the fenders??
@aitkensE04xXxRecon thanks :) i have not made a weathering video about aircrafts yet, but thanks for your suggestion :) i will make one if there is an opportunity!
I have a couple of questions if you don't mind.. Does the prime before painting the model has to ba black? or can it be some other color of prime?.. What shade of rust pigments do you use for the exhaust? and for the mud mixing by earth do you mean dirt? Thanks for your help! awesome tutorial..
the priming colour don´t have to be black, i just prefer black because it creates some depth effect later. there are also special priming colours available, but i never tried them.
Rust pigments: Vallejo Pigments 73106 Burnt sienna and 73108 Brown iron oxide.
@888HamilkarBarkas888 Awesome! Thanks for the reply friend :) I love the work you do, is just incredible.. I bought a tank model and I want to give it that realistic look you gave yours and Im following the steps from your tutorial. Thanks for making it and keep making more videos man I really enjoy watching them.
@ELINDOOR510 thank you very much :) i made a playlist with some tutorials and building reviews on my channel, these videos might be helpful aswell. if you want you can show me your finished model.
@888HamilkarBarkas888 Great I'll check out the playlist right now. And once I finish building and painting this bad boy I'll send you the video friend. Thanks for your help again! :)
@subron6er I was just trying it out, seemed to work ok for a short time, then it stopped coming out of the gun. I dropped the propel in a bucket of warm water and had propel shooting out the air brush tip. Got some propellant oil on the tank,,,,,, started looking good until I did that, but the paint stopped flowing and i had the paint watered down. This is a 1/16 rc heng long Jagdpanther. thanks all the same, might try a diff. way of painting minus the air brush... Your tank is awesome!
Thanks for these vids. I've been building 1:35 WW2 tanks for over decade and seeing these makes me step up my game. My 503rd Heavy Battalion King Tiger looks great thanks to some of these techniques.
For the mud effect, you mention mixing in "earth". Is that the name of the paint color you would use, or is it a powder along the lines of the rust pigments you used? I'm going back over a Stryker model I built last winter, I just added some dirt/dust to the tires and lower hull, but I think the mud would be a great touch along with the slat armor I'm gonna throw on. Thanks ahead of time for any help.
i am 13 just turned 13 and i follew your steps on my 1:35 tamiya JS-2 and it looked amazing my dad said u built that or did a expert do that one of my best models u are the man at models
Very nice video helped A LOT with an upcoming tank I'm going to build. I just got Tamiya's 1/35 M41 Walker bull dog and I was wondering do you know were I might be able to get some Vietnam Jungle vegetation? Thanks and you have just earned yourself a subscriber!
@888HamilkarBarkas888 ummm not to burst his bubble but i built that same kit and ... its from the korean war not the vietnam war i thought the same thing wen i got it
Oh, I pressed "sent" accidentally! What I meant is the white glue solution got in-between the turret and the hull.( hence the following comments......
@millitarychap well, there is dust in between the turrent and the hull. it´s not my earth and white glue mixture, the dirt comes from the MIG pigments. i mixed them with pigment fixer and applied it with a brush like a wash overall.
Well,no. But,maybe after the weathering is done, u can still stick the turret back to the hull.(avoiding the white glu solution from settling at the contact point) juz a comment :)
@millitarychap why? is dust on a real tank different on the turret? in fact, i just glued the turret on the hull because there was no mechanism to hold the turret in place. it would fall off every time. i usually keep the turret movable, but this time i had to glue it in place.
Hamilkar barkas, I saw that u put the turrets on ur tank before weathering. So, on this particular model(on line:8.50)u can clearly see the turret is kindda "joint" to the hull. Does it make the model looks a bit off or is the defect is too small to be noticed?
A+ model! I have been building model tanks for years but have never weathered them so they all look like they just rolled off the assembly line. I have a PzKpfw II that I am going to try to use some of your techniques.
@millitarychap no, but is a very interesting topic. i would like to get a amortek 1/6 scale rc tank but it is very expensive as you can imagine. maybe in a few years :)
@dragonfire970 i used white glue, it is usually used for wood. it is a very effective glue for model building in my opinion, especially for mud effects.
Hai,it's me again.I've started working on my diorama.I still have one question,wouldn't using varnish to coat the greens make it glare,which makes it seems unnatural?
@Aaron1883 i think a video with shitty quality wouldn´t be helpful aswell. my cam has a movie-mode, but it is only okay if you want to film an elephant. the cam has a horrible video quality with regard to small things.
Hai,I've seen much of the short films about building tank models and making dioramas that u posted on YouTube. And I liked them,just like my previous comment.oh,and is there any material to replace the"clay"that u used to depict the diorama terrains?pls reply.....
@millitarychap thank you for your approval. you could use plaster, cement or material from your garden to built a terrain. i think plaster is one of the best ways.
@happycowmonkeylord thank you for your comment :) i usually paint the model after the assembly. it depends on the model itself, you should paint an aircraft model while assembling it, because it is difficult to paint the interior on a later stage. a tank can easily painted afterwards, because usually only the exterior is visible.
very good. i collect the Warhammer 40,000 modells, and this shall help me making my tanks look more realistic. (btw warhammer 40,000 is a tabletop wargame where you buy and make and paint models and play huge games with tanks, infantry, comanders and all sortsa things. its set in the 41st milenium.)
@MrKoiking1 thank you very much :) i heard of warhammer, i play the pc game from time to time but i never got round to deal with the tabletop game, which seems to be very interesting.
I loved the tutorial! The shit grammar made my eyes hurt, but damn, you can paint. Thanks for the tips, I'm starting my first tank after finishing my first 1:35 miniature infantry battle diorama.
@888HamilkarBarkas888 haha! No worries, man, I was in no way meaning any disrespect to you, as someone who presently makes a living copy-editing applications and resumes for poor kids who smoked their way through high school and college, I kind of welcome it. As for the German tutorial, I doubt studying German for a couple of months on Rosetta Stone hardly qualifies me, so I get you. You have some great skills no doubt, I picked up a Tamiya Sherman today just to follow suit with you a little.
You are the modeling MASTER!!!! But I have one question, why dont you use a R.U.S.T.A.L.L. kit for weathering effects? It could be bought on scalehobbyist(.)com
good work, although a silver dry brush is the wost thing you can do to a tank model, you should be shipping with lighter base, then black/brown, if you want the edges to look more metallic, add a little gloss to you black/brown deep chips.
MrZimmyjimmy 2 days ago
a very well done subbed!
lilww2kid 4 days ago
DAWN OF WAR MUSIC FOR THE WIN YEHAAAAAAA
BananaMender 5 days ago
What is the basic colour of the tank? Which number of humbrol colour are you using to paint the tiger?
Glosokopanaki 1 week ago
@Glosokopanaki i don´t use humbrol paints, so i can´t tell you, sorry.
888HamilkarBarkas888 5 days ago
Also how do you glue the track links together without gluing them on the wheels etc.
A4Express 1 week ago
wow! i thought it looked great near the start, but at the end it was fantastic - top marks :)
A4Express 2 weeks ago
DoW Music :D!!!!!
Nanovirus5995 2 weeks ago
Könner !!!!!!!!!!
sidewinder0811 2 weeks ago
I must say, this is talent.
asdfghjkl34101 1 month ago
5 people thought it's "download" button :-D
petrwarry1972 1 month ago 2
@petrwarry1972 apparently :)
888HamilkarBarkas888 1 month ago
Comment removed
TERMINATORNIKO 2 months ago
Comment removed
TERMINATORNIKO 2 months ago
nice work
ABWorsham4 2 months ago
So, do you think tamiya acrylic paints need to add thinner?
millitarychap 2 months ago
@millitarychap i don´t know, never used these.
888HamilkarBarkas888 2 months ago
@millitarychap I do, especially if you using an air brush. Tamiya has it's own brand of thinner, but I myself use rubbing alcohol. I have airbrushed with it, and there doesn't seem to be any adverse effect to the paint.
xairman565 2 months ago
@millitarychap It depends, you have to see for yourself if the paint is good or thick. Try this, get a toothpick and put it in the paint vial. Put it out, see how the paint drips, if it drips in perfect droplets you no longer need to add thinner. If it does not drip at all or it drips in a straight line then add thinner.
rollydodie 2 months ago
@millitarychap
I would. I used to use Tamiya paint with no thinning and it would be quite thick and dry out pretty fast. With thinning it is easier to work with and just plain goes on a lot easier. I do mostly brush painting so thinning it out is key. I do use an airbrush from time to time and thinning it out is a must. Makes the paint flow better and keeps it from clogging up the airbrush.
ComradeMP187 1 month ago
@millitarychap I have 20 year old Tamiya that i mixed with rubbing alcohol and a drop of windex as an airbrush lube,still fine paint.
MrBuddydan 1 week ago
888hamilkarbarkas888, do you need to thin the paint when painting with a brush??
millitarychap 2 months ago
@millitarychap usually yes, it depends on the consistency of the colours. sometimes they are very fluid (no thinner needed) and sometimes they are viscous (thinner needed).
888HamilkarBarkas888 2 months ago
I built my first ever model today, so close it was the kampfwagen II
renno103 2 months ago
Great Job!
pinealrapture 2 months ago
it is perfect made
Kamarovech 2 months ago
888hamilkarbarkas888, what tools did you use to "damage" the fenders?
millitarychap 2 months ago
@millitarychap i used a gripper and twisted the fenders with it.
888HamilkarBarkas888 2 months ago
If a part needs to be painted in rust, why not use real rust? Simply take a steel wool sponge, soak it in hot water, put it in a paper cup and wait...... A week (or two) later you will have enough rust for two or three tanks. Mix the rust powder with matt varnish and paint it on. Doesn't get more realistic than real rust ! ;-)
telescopereplicator 2 months ago
@telescopereplicator i heard about that technique several times, i still found no opportunity to try it. i bought the rust pigments because they are very good to depict brick dust on ruins, in addition to real brick dust. its good to vary the colour of the rubble a bit.
888HamilkarBarkas888 2 months ago
@telescopereplicator because a rusty sponge only one color and rust does not lay on a surface in one bland color ... that's why most people don't bother
HackerGuitarist 2 months ago
Hamilkar: Indeed, the rubber is darker, in most pictures. Mostly on tanks which have been used for a few weeks, already.
And speaking of rubber.... Rarely do I see modelers who age the rubber. An old, used tank has worn rubber, I guarantee it! Depending on where the tank has been in use, the damage should be a little or a lot. Dents, scratches and small pieces missing really add to the realism. Be careful NOT to overdo it ! Use pictures of the real thing for optimal accuracy.
telescopereplicator 2 months ago
@telescopereplicator weathering on the rubber parts of a tank makes absolutely sense, especially if we talk about early german tanks with a average service length of several months or even years. for later tanks i would be very careful doing this, because they had only a low average service lenght in the field until they got destroyed.
it is a good way to individualize a model, to create a light mine damage or something like that, but overall on every wheel - no, i wouldn´t do that.
888HamilkarBarkas888 2 months ago
@888HamilkarBarkas888
;-)
Great ! You have done your homework !
telescopereplicator 2 months ago
Tracks, boxes, steel ropes, all was painted the same color. Often, camouflage was changed when necessary. So in winter, a green tank was painted white using a cloth, large bristles, oil cans, whatever would work. Carefully painted camouflage is -wrongly- only found on models, not on the real thing. They did use airbrushes, in the factory, but once they had to speed up the process, they used literally ANYTHING that could speed up the process. Paint on the "rubber" is historically correct.
telescopereplicator 2 months ago
Some tips for more historic accuracy: these tanks were built fast, in large numbers. They were built completely, then painted. Everything the same color. Including the rubber on the wheels. It is historically correct to paint the rubber the same color as the tank. Only when used would the paint on the rubber slowly wear off, since paint does not stick to rubber very well. So, carefully painting those rims is not correct.
I am not kidding you. Tanks were not built as well as most modelers do !
telescopereplicator 2 months ago
@telescopereplicator i heard about that, the reason why i prefer to paint the rubber parts of the wheels with black paint is that on almost every picture these parts are slightly darker than the rest of the wheel. anyway, it is not important at all, because usually there is dust or mud, so it is hard to see it afterwards.
888HamilkarBarkas888 2 months ago
Gut, dieser Panzer III gefällt mir wirklich sehr und ich werde mir diesen als Vorlage für meinen Emil nehmen.. da dieser ja auch Grau werden soll!ich habe dafür Tamiya XF 63 gekauft was i allerdings als sehr dunkel empfinde, welches Grau hast du denn genommen?Für rost nehme ich echten Rost den ich draussen von einer eisenstange abgekratzt u zermahlen habe.Ich hab mir das Revell airbrush Set mit Kompressor bestellt bei voelkner für knapp 70 euronen, kannst du das empfehlen?
Falke40lg 3 months ago
@Falke40lg ich verwende für das grau immer revell matt 79, das mag ich am liebsten. der grauton deutscher panzer ist immer wieder anlass für diskussionen, geschmäcker sind eben verschieden :) ich verwende selbst ein airbrush system von rowi, das hab ich für 50 euro gekauft, ist also mit sicherheit nicht besser als das was du dir bestellt hast. zum anfangen und üben reicht ja ein billig gerät, man will ja nicht gleich ein paar hundert euro raushauen.
888HamilkarBarkas888 3 months ago
Du kommst aus Deutschland?
Falke40lg 3 months ago
@Falke40lg ja tu ich :) ich weiß nicht wieviele modelle ich schon gebaut habe, wahrscheinlich zu viele! ich baue modelle seit ich 8 jahre alt bin, da kommt einiges zusammen über die jahre.
888HamilkarBarkas888 3 months ago
Ok I am a novice model builder and I would like to ask why do you assemble the model before painting, what I usually do is paint the unassembled parts once they are off the tree an then assemble, i usually correct any missed spots once i have it put it together, should I be using a different technique?
FanboysSuck343 3 months ago
@FanboysSuck343 your technique is totally okay, it is the way you do a model. i showed in this video my own way to build a model and it works good for me, not necessarily for others. do it the way you like :)
888HamilkarBarkas888 3 months ago
@FanboysSuck343 because armor modeling does not require a high skill level,, they only require painting and weathering skills..tanks are great to start with for beginners, so they have their place.. many modelers started off with tanks than progressed from there
HackerGuitarist 3 months ago
@HackerGuitarist .....?? WHAT..??!!..."does not require a high skill level.."?!
Man... someone needs to show you some models built by amateurs and by experienced modelers !
The difference is huge. The only advantage of tanks is that mistakes can be easily hidden by mud, camouflage, etc...
I dare you to build a tank that looks like a real one, once photographed. I have been modeling for over 35 years but building a realistic tank model is still a challenge to me.
telescopereplicator 2 months ago
@telescopereplicator exactly my opinion.
888HamilkarBarkas888 2 months ago
@HackerGuitarist tank models need as much skill as any other model, painting and weathering is needed in other genres, too.
888HamilkarBarkas888 2 months ago
hahaha some Red Orchestra Music....but its very nice modell, in moment i build my "Sturer Emil" from Tamiya its a great modell for only some €
Falke40lg 3 months ago
@Falke40lg i´m sure you mean the sturer emil from trumpeter? i built that model several years ago, excellent kit for less than 15€, what else do you want :)
888HamilkarBarkas888 3 months ago
Comment removed
Falke40lg 3 months ago
Would not know why 5 people had put dislike on this video, the work done was excellent, and the instructions while brief was informative and to the point, not overly boring. I really like the end result, a truly realistic looking model.
RedTyrian 3 months ago
@RedTyrian maybe these people think they are genius and win every competition with their models...i don´t know. instead of appreciating my work and the time i put into the model and video to provide information about model building FOR FREE they hit the dislike button.
thank you for your kind words! i hope you enjoy my other videos aswell.
888HamilkarBarkas888 3 months ago
Hey dude how much would it cost if i paid you to paint about 15 1/35 scale figures? Just wanna know :) .
sgtnick09 3 months ago
@sgtnick09 i think about 60€ or something like that? painting figures is a hard work :)
888HamilkarBarkas888 3 months ago
@888HamilkarBarkas888 Again me.Can you please recommend me airbrush and compressor to buy?You look like you know a lot about these,so I would greatly appreciate your advice!
lodhol 3 months ago
@lodhol i´m using a compressor and airbrush system from rowi, its affordable and works good for the things i´m doing. i bought it on ebay for about 50€ or something like that. it was very hard to paint camo pattern with it in the beginning, but with a bit of exercise it is easy. i highly recommend the products from rowi for airbrush beginners.
888HamilkarBarkas888 3 months ago
@888HamilkarBarkas888 Do you know anything about Werther compressors??What do you think about them?
lodhol 3 months ago
@lodhol never heard of them, sorry.
888HamilkarBarkas888 3 months ago
How paint the crew and wheels ? I have start some models (Befehlspanzer I and Panzer IV Ausf. D). I have got only basic paint tool (brush)
Erwin0859 4 months ago
@Erwin0859 i made 2 tutorials about painting figures, and for painting the wheels, well, just paint them with a brush like i did. painting a model completely with a brush works good, i did that for 10 years before i had an airbrush system.
888HamilkarBarkas888 4 months ago
Hello, Very interesting tutorial, I still would have a question, how do you bend the plastic to have that "bended sheet of metal" effect on the fenders??
BigPitter 4 months ago
@BigPitter thank you :) i use a gripper to bend the plastic parts of the fenders.
888HamilkarBarkas888 4 months ago
Amazing :) do you have a tutorial for weathering of modern helicopters/aircraft?
aitkensE04xXxRecon 4 months ago
@aitkensE04xXxRecon thanks :) i have not made a weathering video about aircrafts yet, but thanks for your suggestion :) i will make one if there is an opportunity!
888HamilkarBarkas888 4 months ago
Awesome Work 5*****
icaruss88 4 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
i thought at first it was going to look errible but you know what you are doing great job
DocterDrx 5 months ago
The final result is really impressive !
blackwinter2 5 months ago
I have a couple of questions if you don't mind.. Does the prime before painting the model has to ba black? or can it be some other color of prime?.. What shade of rust pigments do you use for the exhaust? and for the mud mixing by earth do you mean dirt? Thanks for your help! awesome tutorial..
ELINDOOR510 5 months ago
@ELINDOOR510 no problem my friend :)
the priming colour don´t have to be black, i just prefer black because it creates some depth effect later. there are also special priming colours available, but i never tried them.
Rust pigments: Vallejo Pigments 73106 Burnt sienna and 73108 Brown iron oxide.
for the mud, i use dirt from the garden :)
888HamilkarBarkas888 5 months ago
@888HamilkarBarkas888 Awesome! Thanks for the reply friend :) I love the work you do, is just incredible.. I bought a tank model and I want to give it that realistic look you gave yours and Im following the steps from your tutorial. Thanks for making it and keep making more videos man I really enjoy watching them.
ELINDOOR510 5 months ago
@ELINDOOR510 thank you very much :) i made a playlist with some tutorials and building reviews on my channel, these videos might be helpful aswell. if you want you can show me your finished model.
happy modelling my friend :)
888HamilkarBarkas888 5 months ago
@888HamilkarBarkas888 Great I'll check out the playlist right now. And once I finish building and painting this bad boy I'll send you the video friend. Thanks for your help again! :)
ELINDOOR510 5 months ago
Thanks for all the great info!!
johnnybull100 5 months ago
Comment removed
TheCrazyrogue666 5 months ago
can you airbrush acyrilic paints ? watered down ??
subron6er 5 months ago
@subron6er exactly. i mix acrylic paints with water so i can airbrush them.
888HamilkarBarkas888 5 months ago
@subron6er I was just trying it out, seemed to work ok for a short time, then it stopped coming out of the gun. I dropped the propel in a bucket of warm water and had propel shooting out the air brush tip. Got some propellant oil on the tank,,,,,, started looking good until I did that, but the paint stopped flowing and i had the paint watered down. This is a 1/16 rc heng long Jagdpanther. thanks all the same, might try a diff. way of painting minus the air brush... Your tank is awesome!
subron6er 5 months ago
Great instructions and great work!!!
qdc748a 5 months ago
the exausts, tracklinks and airfilters had a rusty color
but in real it is an anti rust paint
wich had an brownish red color
so no rust^^
TheLordZhufor 5 months ago
@TheLordZhufor but aside from that
nice paintjob
the color is too bright for panzergrau but thats ok
but at the end of 43 the tanks were delivered by the manufacturer in dunkelgelb and got then their 3 color camo by the frontline troops
TheLordZhufor 5 months ago
@TheLordZhufor good points there, but i will give you some clearifications:
- exhausts were rusty, because the heat destroys even the anti rust paint. you can see that on photographs and professional models.
- i used the rust brown colours to depict the anti rust paint on the tracks, it is not supposed to be rust.
- panzer III k´s were built between 1942 and 1943 so there were grey ones of course. later there were dark yellow ones as you said.
- the panzer grey colour is just a matter of taste
888HamilkarBarkas888 5 months ago
Should I use a matt black or shiny black for the primer?
Danny77uk 5 months ago
@Danny77uk i would recommend you matt black.
888HamilkarBarkas888 5 months ago
Wow that looks amazing!
awsem1o1 5 months ago
@awsem1o1 thanks :)
888HamilkarBarkas888 5 months ago
u want pics of panzer 3's every detail? get world of tanks game...
Rassoul44 5 months ago
@Rassoul44 might be not a bad idea at all.
888HamilkarBarkas888 5 months ago
Damn inspiring stuff sir! Do you sand the model before you paint it?
Bobfett1982 5 months ago
@Bobfett1982 thank you :)
there is no sanding necessary.
888HamilkarBarkas888 5 months ago
Thanks for these vids. I've been building 1:35 WW2 tanks for over decade and seeing these makes me step up my game. My 503rd Heavy Battalion King Tiger looks great thanks to some of these techniques.
NorthPark619 5 months ago
For the mud effect, you mention mixing in "earth". Is that the name of the paint color you would use, or is it a powder along the lines of the rust pigments you used? I'm going back over a Stryker model I built last winter, I just added some dirt/dust to the tires and lower hull, but I think the mud would be a great touch along with the slat armor I'm gonna throw on. Thanks ahead of time for any help.
rkb811 6 months ago
@rkb811 it´s "earth" from my garden actually. you can use earth pigments aswell, but dirt from the garden is quite beneficial, isn´t it? :)
888HamilkarBarkas888 5 months ago
That was fantastic
Danny77uk 6 months ago
Nice video learnt alot, search for rnehk for rc tanks
Rnehk 6 months ago
Great vid! What is the backround music it's recognizable but I can't put my finger on it.
Ydouneed2nomyname 6 months ago
one of THE best tank jobs i've seen.damn good job!
willsworthy 6 months ago
But the question is, how do u get the parts?
WOTclips 6 months ago in playlist Kit model ww1 ww2.
@WOTclips the parts are in the kit box, i don´t cast these models on my own.
888HamilkarBarkas888 6 months ago
ur realy good! ;)
MrParamedic94 6 months ago
i am 13 just turned 13 and i follew your steps on my 1:35 tamiya JS-2 and it looked amazing my dad said u built that or did a expert do that one of my best models u are the man at models
blueatchley 6 months ago
@blueatchley great my friend :) i´m very happy to hear that :)
888HamilkarBarkas888 6 months ago
Is the song around 3:50 from a game called Red Orchestra...i somehow recall it in that context.
KnorpelDelux 7 months ago
@KnorpelDelux yep, its from RO.
888HamilkarBarkas888 7 months ago
awesum music choice ;)
carbon0HUN 7 months ago
That looks great, you have a skill.
ChefEarthenware 7 months ago
great build,great tutorial !
primativemodelling 7 months ago
I would not have the patience for this.
Lolwut2o9 7 months ago
Wow. Awesome awewome awsome outcome!!!
StephanusTacitus 7 months ago
Very nice video helped A LOT with an upcoming tank I'm going to build. I just got Tamiya's 1/35 M41 Walker bull dog and I was wondering do you know were I might be able to get some Vietnam Jungle vegetation? Thanks and you have just earned yourself a subscriber!
flightdeckreviews 7 months ago
@flightdeckreviews hey thank you very much :)
i made a vietnam diorama and i used paper vegetation from fredericus rex. they offer various "jungle packs" and it looks pretty cool in my opinion.
888HamilkarBarkas888 7 months ago
@888HamilkarBarkas888 ummm not to burst his bubble but i built that same kit and ... its from the korean war not the vietnam war i thought the same thing wen i got it
sgtnick09 6 months ago
can u make a vid on how to paint a german PzIV with a camo scheme with a regular brush and NOT a airbrush for us without airbrushes
sgtnick09 6 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Hey guy please go to my channel and check out my reviews on 1/72 armor! I made an 88mm Flak gun that got first place in it's category!
SwissCheese707 7 months ago
Oh, I pressed "sent" accidentally! What I meant is the white glue solution got in-between the turret and the hull.( hence the following comments......
millitarychap 7 months ago
@millitarychap well, there is dust in between the turrent and the hull. it´s not my earth and white glue mixture, the dirt comes from the MIG pigments. i mixed them with pigment fixer and applied it with a brush like a wash overall.
888HamilkarBarkas888 7 months ago
Hamilkar barkas, I might had asked wrongly on the first comment. So, sorry.... What I meant is th
millitarychap 7 months ago
Well,no. But,maybe after the weathering is done, u can still stick the turret back to the hull.(avoiding the white glu solution from settling at the contact point) juz a comment :)
millitarychap 8 months ago
Yes,I know. But maybe u should weather the hull and the turret separately?
millitarychap 8 months ago
@millitarychap why? is dust on a real tank different on the turret? in fact, i just glued the turret on the hull because there was no mechanism to hold the turret in place. it would fall off every time. i usually keep the turret movable, but this time i had to glue it in place.
888HamilkarBarkas888 8 months ago
Hamilkar barkas, I saw that u put the turrets on ur tank before weathering. So, on this particular model(on line:8.50)u can clearly see the turret is kindda "joint" to the hull. Does it make the model looks a bit off or is the defect is too small to be noticed?
millitarychap 8 months ago
@millitarychap i made this not deliberately, the turret and the hull just have this form.
888HamilkarBarkas888 8 months ago
A+ model! I have been building model tanks for years but have never weathered them so they all look like they just rolled off the assembly line. I have a PzKpfw II that I am going to try to use some of your techniques.
TheDoomSquid 8 months ago
So for the mud you just picked up some dirt from outside and mixed it with white wood glue and water?
avaxell 8 months ago
@avaxell exactly
888HamilkarBarkas888 8 months ago
@888HamilkarBarkas888 Awesome thx now I learned something new on how to make my models better looking.
avaxell 8 months ago
Is 1/72 the best size if you want to add little people on the models
bravojag 9 months ago
This will really help me when i make my next model
LeoprdGckosHaveSpots 9 months ago
Oh,sorry then but I still would see u weather ur future rc tank.but I think it should need lots of washing and pigments!!!!!!
millitarychap 9 months ago
hamilkar barkas,do u build rc tanks as well?I saw your mekava,it looks great!!!!
millitarychap 9 months ago
@millitarychap no, but is a very interesting topic. i would like to get a amortek 1/6 scale rc tank but it is very expensive as you can imagine. maybe in a few years :)
888HamilkarBarkas888 9 months ago
@888HamilkarBarkas888 armorteks are awsome they shoot real live rounds and its interesting when they have a battle parts are everywhere.
mw2masterful 8 months ago
Ahh that's sucks. I know some camcorders can take photo's as well just curious.
Aaron1883 9 months ago
awesome job! you made it perfect!
Schism19 9 months ago
great tips... subscribed
goretoya 9 months ago
ehm for the mud is it glue for wood you use or like another sort of glue??
dragonfire970 9 months ago
@dragonfire970 i used white glue, it is usually used for wood. it is a very effective glue for model building in my opinion, especially for mud effects.
888HamilkarBarkas888 9 months ago
very nice, you should enter it into competitions!!!
MrKillaRabbit 9 months ago
@MrKillaRabbit thank you. i entered a competition with it but i wasn´t succesful.
888HamilkarBarkas888 9 months ago
Wow! Great vid!! Thanks for sharing
ScotmanUK2000 10 months ago
It's a shame you couldn't afford a HD cam as your painting skills are awesome.
mkingy1 10 months ago
Hai,it's me again.I've started working on my diorama.I still have one question,wouldn't using varnish to coat the greens make it glare,which makes it seems unnatural?
millitarychap 10 months ago
@millitarychap i use a matt varnish so the greens don´t glare at all.
888HamilkarBarkas888 10 months ago
Thanks
millitarychap 10 months ago
Is there any replacement for the "clay"which depicts diorama terrain?
millitarychap 10 months ago
These would be more helpful if you showed how to do it rather than take pictures after the fact and typed it up
Aaron1883 10 months ago
@Aaron1883 i think a video with shitty quality wouldn´t be helpful aswell. my cam has a movie-mode, but it is only okay if you want to film an elephant. the cam has a horrible video quality with regard to small things.
888HamilkarBarkas888 10 months ago
Hai,I've seen much of the short films about building tank models and making dioramas that u posted on YouTube. And I liked them,just like my previous comment.oh,and is there any material to replace the"clay"that u used to depict the diorama terrains?pls reply.....
millitarychap 10 months ago
@millitarychap thank you for your approval. you could use plaster, cement or material from your garden to built a terrain. i think plaster is one of the best ways.
888HamilkarBarkas888 10 months ago
I like it
millitarychap 10 months ago
Fantastic model and great technique, how long does it take to build from start to finish?
MesserschmittMan85 10 months ago
@MesserschmittMan85 about one week, not very long at all :)
888HamilkarBarkas888 10 months ago
I love your music choices!
Ihave3Modes 10 months ago
im fairly new at this, but a big question i have is do u paint before or after the model is built
the models recommand painting before, but it looks like you painted after...
plz respond
happycowmonkeylord 10 months ago
@happycowmonkeylord thank you for your comment :) i usually paint the model after the assembly. it depends on the model itself, you should paint an aircraft model while assembling it, because it is difficult to paint the interior on a later stage. a tank can easily painted afterwards, because usually only the exterior is visible.
888HamilkarBarkas888 10 months ago
I did not see any decals on your tank? Thank you for a great tutorial and some very good ideas .
TheSeasonman1 10 months ago
@TheSeasonman1 there are decals. are you sure you don´t see them?
888HamilkarBarkas888 10 months ago
amazing!!! Great skill.
czechcitizen 10 months ago
very nice! you are a very good modeller, cheers man!!
gettershin1 10 months ago
You know your stuff
ExtremeOrigamiMaster 11 months ago
Absolutely fantastic! Wow, I'm inspired!
bongolongo89 11 months ago
mate you r a pro at this, fuck man ur awsome bro 100 out of 100
trey1653 11 months ago
very good. i collect the Warhammer 40,000 modells, and this shall help me making my tanks look more realistic. (btw warhammer 40,000 is a tabletop wargame where you buy and make and paint models and play huge games with tanks, infantry, comanders and all sortsa things. its set in the 41st milenium.)
MrKoiking1 11 months ago
@MrKoiking1 thank you very much :) i heard of warhammer, i play the pc game from time to time but i never got round to deal with the tabletop game, which seems to be very interesting.
888HamilkarBarkas888 11 months ago
@MrKoiking1 i always hear about warhammer thanks for the info.
n8tivguitar 11 months ago
great vid...thanks for putting it on youtube.
Chris
stanforall 1 year ago
Fantastic build - the rust is some of, or maybe the best I've ever seen!!
MrJebus24 1 year ago
I loved the tutorial! The shit grammar made my eyes hurt, but damn, you can paint. Thanks for the tips, I'm starting my first tank after finishing my first 1:35 miniature infantry battle diorama.
SefMags 1 year ago
@SefMags sorry for the fact that i´m not a native speaker. we could try it the other way round and you post a tutorial in german ;-)
anyway, thank you for your approval, i always try to do my best on models and videos.
888HamilkarBarkas888 1 year ago 8
@888HamilkarBarkas888 haha! No worries, man, I was in no way meaning any disrespect to you, as someone who presently makes a living copy-editing applications and resumes for poor kids who smoked their way through high school and college, I kind of welcome it. As for the German tutorial, I doubt studying German for a couple of months on Rosetta Stone hardly qualifies me, so I get you. You have some great skills no doubt, I picked up a Tamiya Sherman today just to follow suit with you a little.
SefMags 1 year ago
@888HamilkarBarkas888 touche!
PJ3love 11 months ago
You are the modeling MASTER!!!! But I have one question, why dont you use a R.U.S.T.A.L.L. kit for weathering effects? It could be bought on scalehobbyist(.)com
FaRcRyKiNg1 1 year ago