I'm brewing my fourth batch of beer and this is the first time I will do a starter. Have a wyeast american ale liquid yeast pack for the IPA I'm brewing. Should I use this same method for the liquid yeast ?
I am going to make my first beer soon. I don´t have any yeast the way you do. I´ll pitch with a dry yeast pack. But I didn´t understand what you meant at minute 2:50 about it.
You mean I should have opened the pack and poured it into the liquid?.
Hey Joe.....I'm just starting to get into homebrewing. In fact, I haven't yet brewed my first batch but I'm doing a lot of research and I becoming for fascinated with everything I read or see. So far I think All-Grain is the way I want to go. I have a couple of questions.
1) I understand that you like to use just a primary fermentation. But what is the point of a secondary for those who do that?
2) Is it possible to use a glass container for fermentation?
@MrJkubinski Doing a primary-only method is simple and effective for most beers. Secondary fermentation is really only necessary when you need to ferment for longer times, like when you have a big beer or lager, and you don't want the beer sitting on the yeast too long (and ruin the flavor from autolysis). Some people do secondaries all the time, and there is nothing wrong with that, but there is a small risk of infection. Simpler is betterer.
And yes, a lot of people ferment in glass carboys.
I'm new to homebrewing and have a question: if I am making a starter for a WhiteLabs yeast, should it be at room temperature when I add it to the chilled wort? I'm assuming so to reduce the temperature shock to the yeast, but wanted to make sure. Thanks!
How many times can you re-use a Wyeast liqud yeast, and what is the best way to do this? Can you make up several starters at the same time from one Wyeast pack and then keep them in plastic bottles and restart them when you need them?
Good video! Can you use any type of LME? I'd like to take the yeast pack I have and make a few extra yeast starters is that a good idea? I know you can use the slurry from a previous batch, I was just wondering if I could do the same thing with a new yeast pack or if it is even worth the work. Thanks in advance!
@stltk65 You could use LME, but I'm not sure the amount you'd use. Most suggest an OG around 1.040 after boiling and cooling. You could always use 90% of the starter slurry for beer #1, and then add some cooled starter wort to the remainder to make more yeast for beer #2.
hello joe! maybe it's a silly question from a beginner but don't all yeast cells go dead when we just boil the mixture? i always thought that 212 degrees F is more than hot for these types of microorganisms to live.
@thomjoad Hi! The mixture being boiled is the dry malt extract and water. After it is chilled, the yeast from the yeast pack is added to the bottle along with the chilled wort. And when brewing, the boiling wort needs to be chilled before this starter yeast is added.
Hi Joe I have really enjoyed watching your videos, you have great all-grain information. Question: how do you make your iodine solution? And, do you make it and use it until gone over time, or make it 'fresh' on brew day each and every time?
@dekesdad I make iodine so it has the color of weak tea. Not very scientific, I know, but it is approximately the proper strength. I'll keep it mixed in the spray bottle for about a month, then replace it with fresh water and iodophor shortly before I need to use it.
@dekesdad I use iodophor, and mix it with water until it is about the color of iced tea. Not very scientific, but that concentration works well and I've never had an infection. I like to make a fresh spray bottle each brew session so that I know it has the strength needed to sanitize. It's very cheap, so it's really a no-brainer.
Hey Joe, Do you think Wyeast's Belgian strong yeast is ok for my Belgian dark strong ale? Or should I have went with the Trappist? Also Im adding a pound of brown sugar, swapping the 1lb light candi with 1lb dark candi sugar, 2lbs xtra dark LME, 3 xtra lbs amber DME, and possibly a cup of molasses. The original kit Im using to make this is Brewers Best Tripel. Any insight would be a major help. Thx Joe!
@AtlantaBeerBrewing I really don't know, since I haven't made a Belgian in a while. You can try a few of the free brewing forums out there and get opinions from people who have had success with Belgians and that yeast.
Nice clear presentation, I usually check my starter wort with a thermometer to make sure I get to a pitching temperature. Do you wash and keep your slurry in distilled water and maintain in the refrigerator (maybe you have another video about recovering yeast I have not seen yet)? Do you let your left over yeast slurry reach room temperature before adding to your cooled starter wort? Also, looks like you only use part of your slurry from the mason jar too, is this to do multple from one?
@bjcpc0337 I keep yeast slurry (sludge) in a sanitized mason jar for about a month. It separates over time, so I just pour off the top and keep the bottom stuff. When it comes time to pitch, my lager yeast stays cold while my ale yeast is allowed to warm. In both cases, I try to make they yeast be within 5 degrees of the wort it is going into. I know some people are very technical with their yeast handling, but I've been using this method for years without issue.
The 12.5 ppm does work for sanitizing everything it touches in 90 seconds.
I find it strange that you use a stronger concentration because you are worried that 12.5 ppm isn't good enough, but then you go ahead and rinse with water, which is worse than simply using 12.5 ppm and not rinsing with water (sanitation wise).
I guess you can call it strange! I have a vast supply of iodine, and figure there is no harm in making it strong. A single rinse with cold water removes any flavor, and I haven't had a single infection. I'm sure there are lots of reasons to do it differently, but this way works for me, so I'm passing along the knowledge.
@zodiak3000: I make the starter about 3 days before brewing (4-5 for lagers). I like to ferment at the temperature the wort will ferment at. However, if a starter gets off to an explosive start and starts winding down a couple days before brewing, I'll stick it in the fridge to slow it down.
Good video but I think you have gone over the top with the sanitizing. I use Isopropyl Alcohol and just give the necessarry items a quick wipe. Also you seem to use a lot more equipment than I do. I use a saucepan, a milk bottle with an airlock and that's it.
I like to boil the water first, remove from heat, and then add the DME. In that way I can cover it (faster to boil) and dont have to sit there watching the kettle for 5min for the hot-break foam to boil-over.
Just so newbs dont get misled; you have waaay too much Iodophor in your spray bottle. You only need 12.5ppm (20 drops per gal.) More is not better, and rinsing with tap water after defeats the purpose of the product.
I've actually heard that the couple drops you indicate take care of the water itself, but doesn't make that water a sanitizing solution. I prefer a stronger solution (it's free), and then a quick rinse with cold water. Never had a problem doing it this way.
"never had a problem with" doesn't mean its correct, safe, or good advice.
Sullyhause is correct, by rinsing with tap water, or any un-sanitized water for that matter, you are simply adding the chance of contaminant right back into your nice clean iodine-purged item. Does that mean you will get an infection? No, does it mean that you havn't ever even tho you feel you've had good results? No.
Items that are sanitized with iodine need to be completely air-dried, not rinsed.
@JoePolvino I have always used PWR and then Starsan. I wash everything first to be sure nothing has dried on a surface then I sanitize right before I use it. If something has dried on the surface of any piece of your equipment then you must eighter scrub wash it or let it soak in the Starsan to clean and sanitize it. A good soak for a piece of equipment that has dried material on it can be 12-24 hours. Of course this can be speeded up when warm water is used.
The 12.5 ppm does work for sanitizing everything it touches in 90 seconds.
I find it strange that you use a stronger concentration because you are worried that 12.5 ppm isn't good enough, but then you go ahead and rinse with water, which is worse than simply using 12.5 ppm and not rinsing with water (sanitation wise).
@chazballz: Since I have an unlimited supply of iodine, I tend to mix it a little strong, and then figure a quick rinse won't hurt anything. I suppose I could go lighter with no rinse, but I recall a study where water did pick up the iodine taste, even at small concentrations. No infections yet (50 batches).
yeah the packet of yeast I got didnt say anything and the instructions I got with the beer kit I bought didnt mention temp just said add to wort after boiling and in the carboy but noticed evereyone else puts the yeast in around 65 degree or so and raised a concern lol... cause I put mine in too hot ,, oh well I added more when I got it cooled and hopefully back on the right track, thanks for your help. .
I have a question, will the yeast still ferment the beer if it is added when the wort is still hot ? or should I add some more yeast when the beer cools ? thanks for the help ..
Are there any books you'd recommend for an absolute beginner brewer? A lot was clarified for me by your videos, but I'd like to have something on paper to work from. Great work btw
I'll recommend two books for you: John Palmer's "How to Brew" which is available in paperback and free online, and Charlie Papazian's "Complete Joy of Homebrewing 3rd Edition". Palmer's book is newer and a little more "up to date" but both are excelent resources. Good Luck and Happy Brewing!
B-Brite is a cleanser that also sanitizes, but it takes up to 15 minutes to sanitize, and is far more expensive than the iodine spray I use. My cleaning process involves a soak in homemade PBW (oxy clean free + TSP substitute) to clean off bio contamination, a thorough rinse, a spray with iodine+water, and then a quick rinse. I've never had an infection, and this is far cheaper and just as effective as other methods.
If you are going to dilute iodine, (which I'm guessing is then like Iodophor?) why not just use StarSan? near instant, re-useable, and no need for a rinse. Iodine seems a little 90's to me...
I use iodophor because I get it for free, it is easy to use, and has never let me down. I have some StarSan and have used it without issue. Besides cost, I haven't discovered any difference with respect to how well they sanitize.
Well, if you get it for free I can see why you use it. Cost was a major reason I went with StarSan, since it is re-useable over long periods of time.
But the no-rinse attribute was the big seller, I can just dump it out of a bucket or carboy into another and immediately rack beer into the vessel, that was a huge help...
@OPE08 StarSan is a good sanitizer, but it's high foaming. Some brewers prefer the foam, but I found it to be a pain since it's a no-rinse sanitizer. Iodophor is an iodine concentrate, it's cheap, no foam, and does every bit as well as StarSan for sanitizing. Plus, you can reuse Iodophor solutions over and over again just like StarSan. This, coming from a long time brewer, and former StarSan user (current Iodophor user). If it works for you, keep it up, but I'll pass on StarSan.
Starsan in my opinion is far better than a "good" sanitizer, and exactly for the one reason that you mention, it is a "no-rinse".
You can apply starsan, the object is sanitized within seconds to minutes, and you can IMMEDIATELY use it. No rinse, no dry time, and foam makes no difference.
Iodophors only benefit is that it is cheap, so you can add more as it goes bad, that being true it isn't really reuseable like Starsan, as iodophor goes bad over TIME not USES.
@OPE08 StarSan and Iodophor are both capable of sanitizing. Both are no-rinse sanitizers, and both can be used over and over. StarSan, however, has high foaming action, which does not drain well. Iodophor does not foam, and drains easily. You do not need to let Iodophor "completely air-dry" as you say, just drain as normal. I've been brewing for a long time, and have used a variety of sanitizers, including StarSan, and trust me, it's not the best. PM me for details. Cheers!
@ethans83 the foam left from StarSan will NOT affect your brewing. Do not fear the foam. You can have a carboy full of StarSan foam and it won't affect the flavor, head retention, yeast activity - nothing.
@jones3420012001 Not from my experience. I got pretty consistent "chemical" aroma/flavor when using StarSan. Several qualified testers detected it. That went away 100% after switching to Iodophor. The same people haven't noticed anything of the such after the sanitizer switch. Try the "water experiment" with StarSan and Iodophor. YMMV
Sue you can! One option is to pour most of the starter into the wort, and then use the remaining yeast to make another starter. Or you can harvest some of the yeast from the bottom of the fermenter and make a starter from that. In any case, you don't have to buy a fresh yeast pack every time you make beer.
Well, I'm pretty much already partaking in the yeast behavior when I comment on your tube, but I suspect that bread yeast and beer yeast is different... Sorry I made an ass of myself. (using the yeast from potato hops right now). (grin)
I'll usually make 2 generations. The first will be made from the smack pack, and the second will use this process on some of the dregs from the primary fermenter. The second generation starter should be kept refrigerated and used within a month or two.
Good job. But it drives me nuts when people try to introduce people to 'sourdough', buy using all this crazy equipment. This is the basics. Water your flour till it's 'pancake batter'. Then a day later, loose 90 percent, then add new water/flour tills its again 'pancake batter. Do this for a week. after a week, then you have 'young' starter.
The most common problem is that people tend to think that have to keep much more of the 'old' batch. Too much is counter productive.
Thank you for this video.I'm doing a science project on how does sugar affect fermentation,so I'm making yeast and putting different inputs of sugar inside to see how it works out.
I use a strong solution of iodine plus water in a spray bottle. The iodine is technically "povidone-iodine, USP 10%, topical solution." I add enough to water so that it looks like dark iced tea, spray it and let it sit for 3-5 minutes, and then rinse once. Some people have said that a weaker solution doesn't need to be rinsed, but I am happy with my current method and see no reason to change it.
Great production Joe. I appreciate the lav mic and tripod, something that took me a long time to appreciate in my vids. Hope to see more stuff. Subscribed.
Good job, great video. Now how about a video of how to salvage and clean a yeast slurry from your carboy into your Mason jar. That's where I need help.
Is there noticable action in the yeast starter? I cover mine with some aluminum foil and cant really tell if there is a blow off of co2? Is there a way I can tell. Thanks for the demo, its very well laid out.
Man there is no reason to use iodine when you could use 5star.
mauser98k98 5 days ago
@mauser98k98 The iodine I use is free. I also use star san in a spray bottle, which doesn't have to be rinsed. I actually prefer the star san!
JoePolvino 1 day ago
I'm brewing my fourth batch of beer and this is the first time I will do a starter. Have a wyeast american ale liquid yeast pack for the IPA I'm brewing. Should I use this same method for the liquid yeast ?
Hogo69 2 weeks ago
@Hogo69 Same method for smack packs, vials, and dry yeast.
JoePolvino 1 day ago
ummm... im just making bread..
kaybabe2000 2 months ago
Hi Joe:
I am going to make my first beer soon. I don´t have any yeast the way you do. I´ll pitch with a dry yeast pack. But I didn´t understand what you meant at minute 2:50 about it.
You mean I should have opened the pack and poured it into the liquid?.
Regards
Progfan2010 2 months ago
@Progfan2010 the activator pack is not the dry pack it is a wyeast brand he is talking about
bull61175 2 months ago
Hey Joe.....I'm just starting to get into homebrewing. In fact, I haven't yet brewed my first batch but I'm doing a lot of research and I becoming for fascinated with everything I read or see. So far I think All-Grain is the way I want to go. I have a couple of questions.
1) I understand that you like to use just a primary fermentation. But what is the point of a secondary for those who do that?
2) Is it possible to use a glass container for fermentation?
MrJkubinski 5 months ago
@MrJkubinski Doing a primary-only method is simple and effective for most beers. Secondary fermentation is really only necessary when you need to ferment for longer times, like when you have a big beer or lager, and you don't want the beer sitting on the yeast too long (and ruin the flavor from autolysis). Some people do secondaries all the time, and there is nothing wrong with that, but there is a small risk of infection. Simpler is betterer.
And yes, a lot of people ferment in glass carboys.
JoePolvino 4 months ago
dry mold ? mold as in bread mold.... black mold.... what?
emmettebrown 5 months ago
Hi there,
I'm new to homebrewing and have a question: if I am making a starter for a WhiteLabs yeast, should it be at room temperature when I add it to the chilled wort? I'm assuming so to reduce the temperature shock to the yeast, but wanted to make sure. Thanks!
ryantickle 5 months ago
@ryantickle I normally get the yeast "near" the temperature that the wort gets cooled to.
JoePolvino 4 months ago
awsome!! thanks for the info!!!
1960cad 7 months ago
How many times can you re-use a Wyeast liqud yeast, and what is the best way to do this? Can you make up several starters at the same time from one Wyeast pack and then keep them in plastic bottles and restart them when you need them?
bellerive7018 8 months ago
Good video! Can you use any type of LME? I'd like to take the yeast pack I have and make a few extra yeast starters is that a good idea? I know you can use the slurry from a previous batch, I was just wondering if I could do the same thing with a new yeast pack or if it is even worth the work. Thanks in advance!
stltk65 9 months ago
@stltk65 You could use LME, but I'm not sure the amount you'd use. Most suggest an OG around 1.040 after boiling and cooling. You could always use 90% of the starter slurry for beer #1, and then add some cooled starter wort to the remainder to make more yeast for beer #2.
JoePolvino 6 months ago
hello joe! maybe it's a silly question from a beginner but don't all yeast cells go dead when we just boil the mixture? i always thought that 212 degrees F is more than hot for these types of microorganisms to live.
thomjoad 10 months ago
@thomjoad Hi! The mixture being boiled is the dry malt extract and water. After it is chilled, the yeast from the yeast pack is added to the bottle along with the chilled wort. And when brewing, the boiling wort needs to be chilled before this starter yeast is added.
JoePolvino 10 months ago
Iodophor
jonathanmisner 11 months ago
That's the first time I've seen iodine used for brewing sanitation. Thanks for the tip.
r3bol 1 year ago
@r3bol It's cheap and it works well. You *could* spend more on other sanitizers, but why would you?
JoePolvino 6 months ago
Hi Joe I have really enjoyed watching your videos, you have great all-grain information. Question: how do you make your iodine solution? And, do you make it and use it until gone over time, or make it 'fresh' on brew day each and every time?
Thanks again!
dekesdad 1 year ago
@dekesdad I make iodine so it has the color of weak tea. Not very scientific, I know, but it is approximately the proper strength. I'll keep it mixed in the spray bottle for about a month, then replace it with fresh water and iodophor shortly before I need to use it.
JoePolvino 1 year ago
@dekesdad I use iodophor, and mix it with water until it is about the color of iced tea. Not very scientific, but that concentration works well and I've never had an infection. I like to make a fresh spray bottle each brew session so that I know it has the strength needed to sanitize. It's very cheap, so it's really a no-brainer.
JoePolvino 6 months ago
Hey Joe, Do you think Wyeast's Belgian strong yeast is ok for my Belgian dark strong ale? Or should I have went with the Trappist? Also Im adding a pound of brown sugar, swapping the 1lb light candi with 1lb dark candi sugar, 2lbs xtra dark LME, 3 xtra lbs amber DME, and possibly a cup of molasses. The original kit Im using to make this is Brewers Best Tripel. Any insight would be a major help. Thx Joe!
AtlantaBeerBrewing 1 year ago
@AtlantaBeerBrewing I really don't know, since I haven't made a Belgian in a while. You can try a few of the free brewing forums out there and get opinions from people who have had success with Belgians and that yeast.
JoePolvino 1 year ago
All hail Joe Polvino, Master Home Brewer!
AtlantaBeerBrewing 1 year ago
@AtlantaBeerBrewing LOL, thanks!
JoePolvino 1 year ago
very nice thank you
deadsaid 1 year ago
Nice clear presentation, I usually check my starter wort with a thermometer to make sure I get to a pitching temperature. Do you wash and keep your slurry in distilled water and maintain in the refrigerator (maybe you have another video about recovering yeast I have not seen yet)? Do you let your left over yeast slurry reach room temperature before adding to your cooled starter wort? Also, looks like you only use part of your slurry from the mason jar too, is this to do multple from one?
bjcpc0337 1 year ago
@bjcpc0337 I keep yeast slurry (sludge) in a sanitized mason jar for about a month. It separates over time, so I just pour off the top and keep the bottom stuff. When it comes time to pitch, my lager yeast stays cold while my ale yeast is allowed to warm. In both cases, I try to make they yeast be within 5 degrees of the wort it is going into. I know some people are very technical with their yeast handling, but I've been using this method for years without issue.
JoePolvino 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@JoePolvino
The 12.5 ppm does work for sanitizing everything it touches in 90 seconds.
I find it strange that you use a stronger concentration because you are worried that 12.5 ppm isn't good enough, but then you go ahead and rinse with water, which is worse than simply using 12.5 ppm and not rinsing with water (sanitation wise).
chazballz 1 year ago
@chazballz
I guess you can call it strange! I have a vast supply of iodine, and figure there is no harm in making it strong. A single rinse with cold water removes any flavor, and I haven't had a single infection. I'm sure there are lots of reasons to do it differently, but this way works for me, so I'm passing along the knowledge.
JoePolvino 1 year ago
how many days can you or should you let a starter sit? also, do you keep the starter in the fridge or at room temp? thanks...
zodiak3000 1 year ago
@zodiak3000: I make the starter about 3 days before brewing (4-5 for lagers). I like to ferment at the temperature the wort will ferment at. However, if a starter gets off to an explosive start and starts winding down a couple days before brewing, I'll stick it in the fridge to slow it down.
JoePolvino 1 year ago
you have one of the best voices for instructional videos. Don't know if you had to rehearse it alot of its natural but props
meadmiester 1 year ago
Thanks Joe, this is my goto guide for every time I forget how to do my starter, which is every time. Seen this vid like 15 times...
fbi365 1 year ago
american kitchens all look the same
bluelagoon10023 1 year ago
Good video but I think you have gone over the top with the sanitizing. I use Isopropyl Alcohol and just give the necessarry items a quick wipe. Also you seem to use a lot more equipment than I do. I use a saucepan, a milk bottle with an airlock and that's it.
airscrew1 1 year ago
can i use this yeast starter to make wine? plz help
johnhyater 1 year ago
Great video Joe. Outstanding! Best Ive seen.
I like to boil the water first, remove from heat, and then add the DME. In that way I can cover it (faster to boil) and dont have to sit there watching the kettle for 5min for the hot-break foam to boil-over.
Just so newbs dont get misled; you have waaay too much Iodophor in your spray bottle. You only need 12.5ppm (20 drops per gal.) More is not better, and rinsing with tap water after defeats the purpose of the product.
Sullyhause 1 year ago
I've actually heard that the couple drops you indicate take care of the water itself, but doesn't make that water a sanitizing solution. I prefer a stronger solution (it's free), and then a quick rinse with cold water. Never had a problem doing it this way.
Thanks for the helpful comments!
JoePolvino 1 year ago
"never had a problem with" doesn't mean its correct, safe, or good advice.
Sullyhause is correct, by rinsing with tap water, or any un-sanitized water for that matter, you are simply adding the chance of contaminant right back into your nice clean iodine-purged item. Does that mean you will get an infection? No, does it mean that you havn't ever even tho you feel you've had good results? No.
Items that are sanitized with iodine need to be completely air-dried, not rinsed.
OPE08 1 year ago
@JoePolvino I have always used PWR and then Starsan. I wash everything first to be sure nothing has dried on a surface then I sanitize right before I use it. If something has dried on the surface of any piece of your equipment then you must eighter scrub wash it or let it soak in the Starsan to clean and sanitize it. A good soak for a piece of equipment that has dried material on it can be 12-24 hours. Of course this can be speeded up when warm water is used.
REGreenTeam 1 year ago
@JoePolvino
The 12.5 ppm does work for sanitizing everything it touches in 90 seconds.
I find it strange that you use a stronger concentration because you are worried that 12.5 ppm isn't good enough, but then you go ahead and rinse with water, which is worse than simply using 12.5 ppm and not rinsing with water (sanitation wise).
chazballz 1 year ago
@chazballz: Since I have an unlimited supply of iodine, I tend to mix it a little strong, and then figure a quick rinse won't hurt anything. I suppose I could go lighter with no rinse, but I recall a study where water did pick up the iodine taste, even at small concentrations. No infections yet (50 batches).
JoePolvino 1 year ago
Comment removed
chazballz 1 year ago
yeah the packet of yeast I got didnt say anything and the instructions I got with the beer kit I bought didnt mention temp just said add to wort after boiling and in the carboy but noticed evereyone else puts the yeast in around 65 degree or so and raised a concern lol... cause I put mine in too hot ,, oh well I added more when I got it cooled and hopefully back on the right track, thanks for your help. .
bluton78 1 year ago
I have a question, will the yeast still ferment the beer if it is added when the wort is still hot ? or should I add some more yeast when the beer cools ? thanks for the help ..
bluton78 1 year ago
Yeast should only be added to cool wort, otherwise it will die. Your yeast should come with instructions as well as optimal temperatures.
JoePolvino 1 year ago
iodine? i just stumbled on here . but wouldn't a autocleve/pressure cooker be better?
i'm just asking because i'm always wanting to learn cross trade things.
dekonfrost7 1 year ago
maxsmouha, Get the Joy of Homebrewing by Charlie Papazian its a great starter guide.
busta981 2 years ago
Are there any books you'd recommend for an absolute beginner brewer? A lot was clarified for me by your videos, but I'd like to have something on paper to work from. Great work btw
maxsmouha 2 years ago
I'll recommend two books for you: John Palmer's "How to Brew" which is available in paperback and free online, and Charlie Papazian's "Complete Joy of Homebrewing 3rd Edition". Palmer's book is newer and a little more "up to date" but both are excelent resources. Good Luck and Happy Brewing!
jbm790 2 years ago
Palmers "How to Brew" is your best bet, and there is an online version as well.
I started with the Papazian book, but it is a bit dated now...
OPE08 2 years ago
Do you wash the yeast before making the next starter?
ruffdeezy 2 years ago
No, I don't wash my yeast. I suppose if you found a good strain and wanted to get a lot of use out of it, this would be a good practice.
JoePolvino 2 years ago
I have a starter I made today, I will be brewing tomorrow. Can I use it or is it to soon. Do I have to wait two days before using?
bulrydrdan 2 years ago
So the Iodine spray is used instead of something like B-Brite? Is there an advantage?
fenomeno71 2 years ago
B-Brite is a cleanser that also sanitizes, but it takes up to 15 minutes to sanitize, and is far more expensive than the iodine spray I use. My cleaning process involves a soak in homemade PBW (oxy clean free + TSP substitute) to clean off bio contamination, a thorough rinse, a spray with iodine+water, and then a quick rinse. I've never had an infection, and this is far cheaper and just as effective as other methods.
JoePolvino 2 years ago
If you are going to dilute iodine, (which I'm guessing is then like Iodophor?) why not just use StarSan? near instant, re-useable, and no need for a rinse. Iodine seems a little 90's to me...
OPE08 2 years ago
I use iodophor because I get it for free, it is easy to use, and has never let me down. I have some StarSan and have used it without issue. Besides cost, I haven't discovered any difference with respect to how well they sanitize.
JoePolvino 2 years ago
Well, if you get it for free I can see why you use it. Cost was a major reason I went with StarSan, since it is re-useable over long periods of time.
But the no-rinse attribute was the big seller, I can just dump it out of a bucket or carboy into another and immediately rack beer into the vessel, that was a huge help...
OPE08 2 years ago
@OPE08 StarSan is a good sanitizer, but it's high foaming. Some brewers prefer the foam, but I found it to be a pain since it's a no-rinse sanitizer. Iodophor is an iodine concentrate, it's cheap, no foam, and does every bit as well as StarSan for sanitizing. Plus, you can reuse Iodophor solutions over and over again just like StarSan. This, coming from a long time brewer, and former StarSan user (current Iodophor user). If it works for you, keep it up, but I'll pass on StarSan.
ethans83 1 year ago
Starsan in my opinion is far better than a "good" sanitizer, and exactly for the one reason that you mention, it is a "no-rinse".
You can apply starsan, the object is sanitized within seconds to minutes, and you can IMMEDIATELY use it. No rinse, no dry time, and foam makes no difference.
Iodophors only benefit is that it is cheap, so you can add more as it goes bad, that being true it isn't really reuseable like Starsan, as iodophor goes bad over TIME not USES.
Faster and handier...
OPE08 1 year ago
ethans83 1 year ago
@ethans83 the foam left from StarSan will NOT affect your brewing. Do not fear the foam. You can have a carboy full of StarSan foam and it won't affect the flavor, head retention, yeast activity - nothing.
jones3420012001 1 year ago
@jones3420012001 Not from my experience. I got pretty consistent "chemical" aroma/flavor when using StarSan. Several qualified testers detected it. That went away 100% after switching to Iodophor. The same people haven't noticed anything of the such after the sanitizer switch. Try the "water experiment" with StarSan and Iodophor. YMMV
ethans83 1 year ago
Can you do this with any strain of yeast? So if you have the original stain of yeast you can make a yeast starter and reproduce it?
bulrydrdan 2 years ago
Sue you can! One option is to pour most of the starter into the wort, and then use the remaining yeast to make another starter. Or you can harvest some of the yeast from the bottom of the fermenter and make a starter from that. In any case, you don't have to buy a fresh yeast pack every time you make beer.
JoePolvino 2 years ago
Well, I'm pretty much already partaking in the yeast behavior when I comment on your tube, but I suspect that bread yeast and beer yeast is different... Sorry I made an ass of myself. (using the yeast from potato hops right now). (grin)
warforlips 2 years ago
Joe, how many generations of yeast to do use before starting over again?
jorgensonb78 2 years ago
I'll usually make 2 generations. The first will be made from the smack pack, and the second will use this process on some of the dregs from the primary fermenter. The second generation starter should be kept refrigerated and used within a month or two.
JoePolvino 2 years ago
Great video. Very clear. Finally started doing yeast starters for my beers with this video!
bnfergus 2 years ago
joe you a beast! great video again man!
bluejays1945 2 years ago
Very professional very informative, good job five stars
thebibleisfiction 2 years ago
Another great and informative video Joe.
pattyww 2 years ago
Good job. But it drives me nuts when people try to introduce people to 'sourdough', buy using all this crazy equipment. This is the basics. Water your flour till it's 'pancake batter'. Then a day later, loose 90 percent, then add new water/flour tills its again 'pancake batter. Do this for a week. after a week, then you have 'young' starter.
The most common problem is that people tend to think that have to keep much more of the 'old' batch. Too much is counter productive.
warforlips 2 years ago
You know this is about creating a yeast starter for brewing beer right?
bnfergus 2 years ago
Thank you Joe,I found your video very clear and helpful.
You took all of the Brew ha ha and mistery out of making a yeast starter. Other videos make things very difficult
Peace
jebus272 2 years ago
Thank you for this video.I'm doing a science project on how does sugar affect fermentation,so I'm making yeast and putting different inputs of sugar inside to see how it works out.
Tvmakerguy 3 years ago
Good video. Only thing I'd do differently is work around a fire.
nige4958 3 years ago
but that's cheating 0 think people need to know how to make yeast from scratch.
orangeblueandlavenda 3 years ago
Another great video, thanks for making it!
justknifeit 3 years ago
what would be a good ratio for using liquid malt extract for the starter?
marisbiezaitis 3 years ago
Great video!!!!!!! Thank you for making it.
AlexNC 3 years ago
It's much easier to use a Erlenmeyer Flask.
nige4958 3 years ago
Great stuff Joe, thanks
sensistar1973 3 years ago
Thanks for posting this Joe. Do you use iodine for all you sanitizing? If so, do you rinse it?
joeyscave 3 years ago
I use a strong solution of iodine plus water in a spray bottle. The iodine is technically "povidone-iodine, USP 10%, topical solution." I add enough to water so that it looks like dark iced tea, spray it and let it sit for 3-5 minutes, and then rinse once. Some people have said that a weaker solution doesn't need to be rinsed, but I am happy with my current method and see no reason to change it.
JoePolvino 3 years ago
Excellent video. I should get a lav mic for mine it looks like.
Homebrew58 3 years ago
Great production Joe. I appreciate the lav mic and tripod, something that took me a long time to appreciate in my vids. Hope to see more stuff. Subscribed.
BobbyFromNJ 4 years ago
Good job, great video. Now how about a video of how to salvage and clean a yeast slurry from your carboy into your Mason jar. That's where I need help.
ElevatedThreat 4 years ago
could teach me how to make a good yeast for wine
zhians2001 4 years ago
Good info; thanks for posting the video.
ttokar 4 years ago
Great job on the video.
mrdrysdale64 4 years ago
great video. Enjoyed it.
unfun72 4 years ago
Yes, you can see noticeable yeast action by 2 methods: active bubbling and an accumulation of yeast cells near the bottom.
JoePolvino 4 years ago
Is there noticable action in the yeast starter? I cover mine with some aluminum foil and cant really tell if there is a blow off of co2? Is there a way I can tell. Thanks for the demo, its very well laid out.
BuildingABetter12 4 years ago