In Australia with a now 40 year history of manufacture of chlorinators (Watermaid began in 1971) you will find that mechanical flow sensors were gone by the early 80's. If I had been responsible for this installation I would have been made to go back and do it properly There are two scenarios that come to mind 1, the flow sensor locks on after a time through either wear , electronic failure. and the motor runs without water moving in which case the only place for the gas to go is into the filter
In Australia with a now 40 year history of manufacture of chlorinators (Watermaid began in 1971) you will find that mechanical flow sensors were gone by the early 80's. If I had been responsible for this installation I would have been made to go back and do it properly There are two scenarios that come to mind 1, the flow sensor locks on after a time through either wear , electronic failure. and the motor runs without water moving in which case the only place for the gas to go is into thefilter
In Australia with a now 40 year history of manufacture of chlorinators (Watermaid began in 1971) you will find that mechanical flow sensors were gone by the early 80's. If I had been responsible for this installation I would have been made to go back and do it properly. There are two scenarios that come to mind 1, the flow sensor locks on after a time through either wear , electronic failure. and the motor runs without water moving in which case the only place for the gas to go is into thefilter
In this case the chlorinator cannot run without the pump running. Both feed by the same circuit. We purposely wire the unit this way in case the flow switch fails.
I have some pictures that were sent to me from the department of fair trading in Australia for my evaluation and comment. This installation HAS a gas trap and the gas was restricted to a volume less than 1 litre.
The pump must be plugged in to the chlorinator and both must run at the same time, there is an electronic gas sensor incorporated in the cell. This unit is still currently sold.
Your setup does not prevent gasses from filling the filter in the "worst case scenario"
The flow sensor is in the correct position. The cell will attract calcuim salts to it which can flake off and clog or make the flow sensor fail if it is downstream of the cell.
The current draw @ 240V would be around 8A for the pump and around 1 to 2Amps for the chlorinator
Thanks for the feedback Andrew, but there are two safety measures to prevent any gas production or build-up. 1. The flow sensor, and 2. the chlorinator and pump are powered by the same source to insure there's no chlorine production when the pump is not running.
And yes, this is an approved install from the manufacturer....they've visited dozens of our project sites and are always thrilled with the results.
Of the 500+ chlorinators we've installed, we've never had an issue.
Shouldn't the flow valve be in front of the generator if the water is going too the pool after the valve. The flow valve can be behind the generator if its before the pool valve.
Sorry, not sure I understand you. The flow switch is before the chlorinator cell in this case. The chlorinator cell should always be the last thing in the plumbing before the pool.
It's actually a Leisure Moroccan 38, but the fiberglass pool manufacturer is irrelevant. You may want to do a google search on pool grounding vs bonding. But in essence you need to bond any metal within 5' of the waters edge of the pool as well as bond the water with a wet niche typle light, ladder, or other component that actually touches the water. The objective is to make everything the same potential to eliminate nuissance voltage issues.
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In Australia with a now 40 year history of manufacture of chlorinators (Watermaid began in 1971) you will find that mechanical flow sensors were gone by the early 80's. If I had been responsible for this installation I would have been made to go back and do it properly There are two scenarios that come to mind 1, the flow sensor locks on after a time through either wear , electronic failure. and the motor runs without water moving in which case the only place for the gas to go is into the filter
010Andrew010 10 months ago
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In Australia with a now 40 year history of manufacture of chlorinators (Watermaid began in 1971) you will find that mechanical flow sensors were gone by the early 80's. If I had been responsible for this installation I would have been made to go back and do it properly There are two scenarios that come to mind 1, the flow sensor locks on after a time through either wear , electronic failure. and the motor runs without water moving in which case the only place for the gas to go is into thefilter
010Andrew010 10 months ago
In Australia with a now 40 year history of manufacture of chlorinators (Watermaid began in 1971) you will find that mechanical flow sensors were gone by the early 80's. If I had been responsible for this installation I would have been made to go back and do it properly. There are two scenarios that come to mind 1, the flow sensor locks on after a time through either wear , electronic failure. and the motor runs without water moving in which case the only place for the gas to go is into thefilter
010Andrew010 10 months ago
@010Andrew010
In this case the chlorinator cannot run without the pump running. Both feed by the same circuit. We purposely wire the unit this way in case the flow switch fails.
hughesjasonc 10 months ago
I have some pictures that were sent to me from the department of fair trading in Australia for my evaluation and comment. This installation HAS a gas trap and the gas was restricted to a volume less than 1 litre.
The pump must be plugged in to the chlorinator and both must run at the same time, there is an electronic gas sensor incorporated in the cell. This unit is still currently sold.
Your setup does not prevent gasses from filling the filter in the "worst case scenario"
010Andrew010 10 months ago
The flow sensor is in the correct position. The cell will attract calcuim salts to it which can flake off and clog or make the flow sensor fail if it is downstream of the cell.
The current draw @ 240V would be around 8A for the pump and around 1 to 2Amps for the chlorinator
010Andrew010 1 year ago
@010Andrew010
Thanks for the feedback Andrew, but there are two safety measures to prevent any gas production or build-up. 1. The flow sensor, and 2. the chlorinator and pump are powered by the same source to insure there's no chlorine production when the pump is not running.
And yes, this is an approved install from the manufacturer....they've visited dozens of our project sites and are always thrilled with the results.
Of the 500+ chlorinators we've installed, we've never had an issue.
hughesjasonc 1 year ago
Shouldn't the flow valve be in front of the generator if the water is going too the pool after the valve. The flow valve can be behind the generator if its before the pool valve.
Acorvettes 1 year ago
Sorry, not sure I understand you. The flow switch is before the chlorinator cell in this case. The chlorinator cell should always be the last thing in the plumbing before the pool.
hughesjasonc 1 year ago
It's actually a Leisure Moroccan 38, but the fiberglass pool manufacturer is irrelevant. You may want to do a google search on pool grounding vs bonding. But in essence you need to bond any metal within 5' of the waters edge of the pool as well as bond the water with a wet niche typle light, ladder, or other component that actually touches the water. The objective is to make everything the same potential to eliminate nuissance voltage issues.
hughesjasonc 2 years ago
It looks like a Viking pool was used in thus video. Does that pool need to be grounded in any way?
postlnv 2 years ago
Good precauntionary informationary here for those considering a salt system for their pool. Nice job.
MarcusSheridan 2 years ago