Added: 5 years ago
From: 223n9
Views: 172,016
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  • For the next time: You block the camera for a good part of the video.

  • Thanks man

  • stopped and downvoted after video instructed me to insert the cleaning rod from the muzzle side

  • what a idiot

  • what about the ejector???

  • @ 2:10 I knew exactly what 9 pages of comments would be about...as well as the dislikes...which unfortunately I have to agree. Lots of good info mixed with a little bad info is all together bad news. "And that's the way it is"

  • for basic cleaning, do you have to take apart the bolt carrier like that or can you just clean the outside of it?

  • a better habit is to remove the bolt carrier before removing the upper/lower receiver. otherwise this is a great video on how to field strip your AR. nice video

    mcpl. kcgc (ret.) cdn forces

  • clean the chamber first with a chamber brush,then do the same with a copper brush for the barrel....then use a swab otherwise you aren't removing the copper fouling from the barrel.also you always go from chamber to muzzle when cleaning to avoid damaging the crown.all you need to clean an AR/M4/M16 variant is gun oil since some solvents can remove the parkerization or give it a purple color.

  • I have always cleaned from the breach to the muzzle as thats the way the bullet travels and is less likely to cause damage to any part i put a patch on it before inserting it into the breach end and plus i was trained in the millitary to clean my firearm that way so it was kinda beat into my brain to clean ones rifles such

  • I agree. DO NOT clean from the Muzzle End of the barrel. It can and will damage the Barrel Crown.

    I also use a Rope Type cleaning system for cleaning the barrel. That way I'm not damaging the rifleing by using a metal or nylon rod down the barrel.

  • you dont use a brush for the barrel?

  • that's an awesome heat shield/fore grip

  • This guy will soon need his AR rebarreled. Keep searching for good info on cleaning your AR. NEVER clean from the muzzle. ALWAYS clean from the breech unless it is a pump shotgun or there is no other way. Damage to the muzzle caused by the rod is unrepairable and will shorten barrel life and distort accuracy. Even on a bolt gun. Any good shooter knows this.

  • yeah, you pop the back pin, rock the lower receiver down, pull the cocking handle back 'not all the way', remove the bolt, pull back and remove the cocking lever, then pop the forward pin. But I am certain at the heart of it that it's all good. :)

  • You can use parts cleaner also. I dont know if it affects the barrel any different. I would get it at the motor pool. I don't think I'd use it every time.......maybe a once a year thing.

  • hopefully this doesent make me a AHOLE but arent you soposed to remove the rear takedown pin first rock the upper up and remove the front pin? AS far as cleaning I use MPRO7 and oil miltec best combo IMO

  • @JLRWEL As far as pins go.......no, when i was in the army and i did this, pull what ever pin you felt like. Although the pin i pulled usually was the rear first.

  • thank you.

  • the guy is cleaning the gun backwards. He will end up damaging the rifling near the muzzle. . You clean an AR from breech to muzzle, why does he do it backwards?

  • @777Yonatan You clean every rifled weapon that way. He is going breach to muzzle. Or as the bullet travels.

  • He's actually going muzzle to breach... Thats the way you're tought to clean a rifled firearm.

  • @ninjaman00 No he is not. If you look closely, he puts the patch on in the breach and pulls out through the muzzle. AS THE BULLET FLIES. Like I stated earlier. You stick to the shurikens, darts, bows and swords. Let the pros handle the guns and explosives. Just kidden dude have a good one.

  • dont use auto focus my man.

  • try an overhead angle next time man

  • How about using a Bore Snake to clean the barrel? Seem it would be easier and safe for the crown.

  • i use one on my lwrc... hope its ok :)

  • Did he use a new swab each time? and what kind of solvent would be the best for a chrome lined barrel?

  • I can tell you that everyone I talk to around here prefers "break free". Not sure if the chrome makes much difference. I used to use hoppes, but break free is easier to use.

  • Nice vid. thnx for sharing

  • can i clean my ar15 rifle with hoppies

  • I just bought a Colt ar15, do i need to purchase any specific tools for dissasembling the gun for cleaning. I bought a govt cleaning kit from bushmaster. Thanks.

  • You don't really need anything special although there are products out there that make cleaning faster........good choice on the colt ar15 ;) slightly more accurate than the bushmaster

  • i completly agree i personaly own a bushmaster xm-15-e2s aka the m4 style and my buddy has an identical m4 by colt and he always has tighter groups then i do i went with bushmaster because of the price difference but its an exelent rifle as well

  • he's just a better shot

  • I would buy a one piece cleaning rod. They work sweet.

  • wow I thought that the m4 only had that type of butt stock?

  • not a helpful video. how did it get such high ratings?

  • Nice try...

    No retailed info a novice would find useful.

  • not so helpful when you're blocking the view. repostion camera....retake.

  • Do not clean the barrel from the muzzle. You can harm the barrel crown, which is very important to accuracy.

  • I'm not sure I understand what you mean. My thinking is that you pass the bore snake or cloth from the receiver end out the towards the end of the barrel. basically the same path the bullet would take. is this right? I ask cause I think a lot of people do it wrong.

  • You and "long" are right - but some guns you have no choice but to start at the muzzle - at which point you use a guide to protect the crown (the ar is not one of them)

    If you can, always clean from the breach forward, AKA the direction that the bullet will travel. Use a quality rod that has a bearing handle (to save your rifling).

  • What about removing and cleaning the extractor from the bolt. Don't forget to clean the chamber and barrel extension with a chamber brush.

  • nice red shirt.... move your camera

  • how about not standing in front of the camera so we can all see what the hell you're doing?

  • break down is simple- forward and rear retainer pins. remove upper from lower, remove bolt assem and charging handle. remove firing pin holding pin, remove firing pin. remove bolt retainer, remove bolt. reverse for assembly, so easy a caveman can do it!

  • no wonder anyways there are alot of people that would use them on thers just for the sake of it

  • its fuckin shit that firearms in the uk are banned can have any fun with them.

  • Wrong. Traditional AR15s work on direct impingement design, while AKs and some newer AR kits have gas pistons.

    Please do some research before you post false information.

  • Why do you clean from the muzzle end? Horrible advice.

  • Not bad, but the main danger in cleaning the barrel is dinging the crown, so why would you insert the cleaning rod from the muzzle? Insert it from the breach, push the patch through, and remove it at the muzzle.

    If you have to push so hard that you're bowing the rod and hitting the rifling, your patch is too tight. Even so, the steel in the barrel is likely a lot harder than the rod, so damage is unlikely. And even if you do something to the rifling, that's better than damaging the crown.

  • whats the crown?

  • It's the very tip of the barrel where the bullet exits the gun. It turns out that any little nick will affect the accuracy way more than you would think.

  • cool..thanks!

  • How is gun oil applied to this rifle? Does it go on heavy, light, or sprayed on but then wiped off? Just picked one up =]

  • If powder builds up a jam will likely result, and if copper builds up in the barrel the gun will be far less accurate, if the gun were never to be cleaned and it didnt jam from powder fowling, then it could even become a danger to the user and others nearby. Not to mention dirty comonents will deteriorate faster and increase wear on moving parts.

  • When you have no knowledge, try not to advise.

  • try standing on the other side of the table so your back isnt constantly blocking the camera and in the way.

  • I don't see you designing a better rifle. No other ridle has served as well as the M4. Granted M16A1s were shipped without cleaning instructions in Vietnam, so of course i failed miserably for 2 years before they decided to show people how to clean them. No other rifle, besides the AK47 has been in service more than the AR15. The XM8 MELTED in stress test, and that was the closet a rifle ever got to being considered to replace the AR15.

  • I think there are better weapons out there at the moment........HK G416, HK G36, FN 2000, FN SCAR to name a few. US congress is just concerned about the amount of training they would have to pay for in order to train soldiers, marines, sailors and airmen on a new weapon. To be fair the AR15 series is a good weapon but it's effectiveness when compared to more recent weapons is starting to fall behind.

  • if they are worried about retraining soldiers on a new weapon, the just take the M4/M16 platform and put the 6.8mm into it (barrett REC7 for example) and there would be no need for new training.

  • While that is true then there is the issue of all the excess 5.56x45mm rounds that are in just about every military munitions store house owned by the US military. I think the HK G416 is a more viable choice and the US special forces are already using them. An alternative would be to use the newer piston based gas systems from LWRC and install them on exsisting weapons if Congress is that budget conscious.

  • we can still use the excess ammo with our M249's. i agree with you that the gas piston is a good alternative and thats why i think the barrett REC7 is the best choice, because it is in the 6.8mm round and it is a gas piston rifle! if we switched to that rifle there would be no need for full retraining of the soldiers, just how to clean the gas piston system.

  • You aren't suggesting the AR doesn't use a gas piston, are you?

  • No I didn't..........The gas piston system I suggested was one that uses a larger piston to drive bolt group back directly and prevents gases from going towards bolt group to reduce carbon fouling, prevent parts from wearing out too quick and greatly reduces heat problems (known as the short-stroke gas piston system) as opposed to piping the gas back towards bolt group (as per direct impingement systems which the M4 or M16 uses). Look up the LWRC website or search Youtube to see what I mean.

  • OK, thanks for the clarification! Yeah, I steered clear of the short stroke for that reason and have a mid, fwiw.

  • Are YOU suggesting that most AR's do have gas pistons?

  • All gas-operated firearms have gas pistons to my knowledge.

  • no the ar does not have a gas piston. the gas flows out of the gas tube directly on to the face of the bolt pushing it back. its called direct impingement operation. this is what causes most of the problems for the ar platform because all of the burnt powder gases build up on the bolt causing it to stick or jam.

  • Hmm, I am not going to join the argument on direction to push the rod; however, I want to point out that at the end of the video he pulls it through very abruptly with all manner of various parts laying around the towel. That is unacceptable, you need to be more appreciative of every part of the weapon. Try not to make any mistakes when "maintaining" your rifle.

  • This weapon has served the US reliably for nearly 50 years. What do you know about it?

  • they sell gas piston kits for ar15's.

  • Would anyone be interested in seeing something similar with my Glock 19? I was thinking of showing a field strip and clean....

  • @223n9 I would.

    

  • @223n9 yes.

  • Barrels are meant to be traversed from breach to muzzle. Put your rod in from the other direction, it'll clean the chamber a bit better too.

  • When the rod is inserted from the breach, it doesn't have a patch on it so there isn't any issues. I find it much easier to pull the rod than push it through.

  • Though it may be easier you are sacrificing accuracy. You always want to follow the direction of projectile when cleaning any barrel, unless it is absolutely impossible to enter the rod through the breech end of the weapon. In those cases a pull rod or a bore snake should suffice.

  • Actually no, if you know anything about ballistics and breaking in barrels then you would know that you are wrong. And before you say "what the fuck do you know" I've been an armorer in the Marines for four years and I've been a custom rifle builder for ten years. Trust me, it matters.

  • You don't know how wrong you are. Steel isn't as hard as you think it is. Improper cleaning techniques will ruin a good barrel!

  • Yup breech first if possible. Good video though.

  • @223n9 YOU ARE risking too high an odds that you will damage the muzzle...

  • I usually punch a patch in the center with my spear tip jag and then insert it into the chamber and out thru the muzzle.  I'll confess to not watching very carefully the first time and I didn't realize that you were inserting a loop type jag without a patch into the muzzle and then affixing the patch for the drag thru. Sorry. Also, most of my rifles are .30 cal so it is about the same effort whether pushing or pulling. I push my .22s and the like too and it is much harder.

  • If you are trying to prevent rod to barrel contact, seems pulling would be better since pushing a cleaning rod, especially one that is thin enough to clean a .22, will cause it to bow under pressure.

    I still think this is overrated, though, compared to the stresses of firing a bullet you are probably not doing to damage a barrel unless you are really careless.

  • Agreed. And really the most important thing is to make sure that all cleaning tools are made from soft metals or plastic, which they generally are. A few careless mistakes with an aluminum rod or cleaning tip won't damage steel unless it happens over and over again in the same place.

  • Good info but you need close-ups of what exactly you're doing with your hands and standing in the way really doesn't help at times. Other than that its a good beginner tutorial

  • You had better lube that bolt carrier, inside and out before putting it back together. My reccomendation is the ProLong spray can(as in car lube). I've tried all sorts of other gun lubes, but the Prolong seems to work for me. I've pushed close to 9,000 rounds out of my AR15 with that lube. When I'm ready to field strip, I can pull the bolt out with one finger.

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