Why dont you just use a prybar or screwdriver while the caliper is still bolted on and pry the piston back in using the pads,
i do this on every back job I do when I dont replace the calipers and I would have had them back in by the time you picked your tool up and started to situate it...
Turkey baster from the dollar store keeps fluid off your floor.Stick it there and fill the bulb and just leave it in the reservoir. Squeeze it back in when your pads are done.
my comment would be I don't think you should be adding brake fluid as the pads wear. That is a safety hazard. The reservoirs are designed to hold enough fluid to let the pads wear and still have what it needs in the reservoir. When the brake fluid approaches the min line that means you need to change the pads.
Then when you push the piston back in you don't pour paint-eating brake fluid on your car.
But otherwise Great tool idea for pushing the piston
A large "C" clamp works just fine. Place the old brake pad over the piston and use the clamp to compress the piston back inside... Just take care not to put the clamp on the bleeder valve or the brake line on the rear of the caliper. I do it this way all the time and it is much faster... although that is an interesting tool you've made.
Thanks to you I got my piston back in, it took one threaded bolt and two nuts. Job Done (Y). Don't suppose you have a clever home made tool to put on a front bush on a wishbone? It's the sort of donut shaped bush that slides on the end of the wishbone
Y'know you can buy a tool that pushes the piston Snap-On or Mac for $15 or Chinese brand for about $5 Works better than yours and costs about the same.
The purpose made tool works better than the home made tool in this video because it does not require a wrench or washers or any assembly. You just slide it in and twist the knob. I'm dead serious when I say that in the time it took this guy to assemble his tool I can have a piston depressed already.
Like I said, really nice ones are about $15 and cheapos are $5 and are way more compact than his.
@zapwatt Well technically the time spent using the wrench is dependent entirely on the fact that he is using just a regular wrench. Btw using one of the old brake pads + a C-clamp only requires twisting the knob on the c-clamp and then you haven't spent 5 dollars on a tool you will only use once in a while.
Yeah it is only 5 bucks but what the hell i can put my pads on and go to taco bell with my 5 bucks in hand instead XD
boone has the right idea, you can use a large screwdriver and small prybar and pry the caliper back right on the car with the old pads in place and sub a new shoe when you get too much gap as long as you dont mar the rotor surface and dont pry on the new pad's brake material, helps to loosen the caliper mount bolts - I havent used a c clamp or any tool in 20 + years JHMO
Everybody has their own way of doing it. But what i usualy do is take a tire tool. Turn the wheel to the direction of what side i am doing brakes. I take the tip and jamm it between the pad and rotor and pry. It goes in really easy as long as there aint no other issues with the brakes
Nice video dude, Have you thought of doing the cheap "Big Brake Upgrade"? I have a 99 Grand am With pretty much the same Braking System, it involves a 98-02 Camaro/ Firebird 2 Piston Calipers (Dual Piston) and 12" Impala Rotors, I will be posting the Video up soon and I will show you how it looks before and after :)
many say that the new and or old rusty damp oxidized brake fluid should not be pushed back through the master cylinder servo control system cos it can flip some rubber seals back in there needing expensive rebuild or replacement, or it can push rust dirt into it and make troube that way , but me , I know very little about this. so they say it is better to open the bleed nipple while pushing the caliper back and let the fluid out of the caliper.
@orangestoneface how true you are about the old fluid ....i would do the same ...drain the old stuff...but the cars that i do this to have pretty clean fluid...thats for a very good comment...thanks... (viewers keep this in mind )
NIce tool have you tried taking a c clamp and old brake pad. Place the flat smooth surface of the old pad over the piston attach c clamp and tighten and it pushes it back
Why dont you just use a prybar or screwdriver while the caliper is still bolted on and pry the piston back in using the pads,
i do this on every back job I do when I dont replace the calipers and I would have had them back in by the time you picked your tool up and started to situate it...
442kid 3 days ago
This looks a lot more easy than a C clamp..Good work
GunsClap315 1 week ago
SImplest way is C-Clamp.
Insert screw of C-Clamp into piston.
With clamp set at back of Caliper.
Always push pistons out further to inspect for rust & dirt peeking under boot.
Pushing corroded piston back destroys not only the seal internal, it added rust into the bore, and eventually a frozen Caliper.
You'll also notice uneven braking, being the piston doesn't freely move in the bore.
Replace Caliper or rebuild it as new.
Philscbx 3 weeks ago
Turkey baster from the dollar store keeps fluid off your floor.Stick it there and fill the bulb and just leave it in the reservoir. Squeeze it back in when your pads are done.
bedofrazorsqwerty 3 weeks ago
Why not just use channel lock pliers, it's faster, and easier?
VTSPQR 1 month ago
@VTSPQR
To big of a space and you need to much torche!
GunsClap315 1 week ago
@GunsClap315
You get the, 'Dumb Azz reply award of the day'!..What dose a "torche" have to do with this? lol
VTSPQR 1 week ago
@VTSPQR
You need to torque the piston back into the caliper Duuuuuuuuuu..So what would your dumbass be talking about fuck boy!
GunsClap315 1 week ago
thanks for putting this video on youtube it saved me time and money copying your home made tool thanks !!!!!!
celgod20 1 month ago
HI I JUST WANT TO LET U KNOW THAT UR VIDEO WAS HELPFUL TO ME THANX
pepe4244 2 months ago
they do make a tool that is pretty cheap.
jeepers2655 2 months ago
use a large C clamp and an old pad.........that`s what I use.
jeepers2655 2 months ago 2
my comment would be I don't think you should be adding brake fluid as the pads wear. That is a safety hazard. The reservoirs are designed to hold enough fluid to let the pads wear and still have what it needs in the reservoir. When the brake fluid approaches the min line that means you need to change the pads.
Then when you push the piston back in you don't pour paint-eating brake fluid on your car.
But otherwise Great tool idea for pushing the piston
moparmattl 3 months ago
Thanks !
RoyLeeCampbell 4 months ago
if you want to use a c clamp then use it..this tool is great and so easy to make..great vidio
stickeyontheendtype 5 months ago
this is cool///
OptimismRockafellas 5 months ago
A large "C" clamp works just fine. Place the old brake pad over the piston and use the clamp to compress the piston back inside... Just take care not to put the clamp on the bleeder valve or the brake line on the rear of the caliper. I do it this way all the time and it is much faster... although that is an interesting tool you've made.
NastiSavage 7 months ago 3
@NastiSavage im way too lazy to build a tool when i can do the same thing with a c clamp.
Psychofarmer87 5 months ago
nice tool!!!
DiBaGuy 8 months ago
@tonystewartracingfan: I totally agree. I use the old brake pad and a c-clamp.
SilkyTP 9 months ago
Thanks to you I got my piston back in, it took one threaded bolt and two nuts. Job Done (Y). Don't suppose you have a clever home made tool to put on a front bush on a wishbone? It's the sort of donut shaped bush that slides on the end of the wishbone
SweetzDesigns 11 months ago
I just use a pair of big pliers to push it bag.
mope03 11 months ago 2
2 pieces of steel and a bolt...from junk box...wrench i have allready had...
TheTeddy214 1 year ago
pretty easy to make and seems to work good. I still like my piece of wood and c-clamp XD
sidescrollin 1 year ago
Y'know you can buy a tool that pushes the piston Snap-On or Mac for $15 or Chinese brand for about $5 Works better than yours and costs about the same.
:/
zapwatt 1 year ago
@zapwatt How can it work better?? It either pushes it in or doesn't.....
sidescrollin 1 year ago
@sidescrollin
The purpose made tool works better than the home made tool in this video because it does not require a wrench or washers or any assembly. You just slide it in and twist the knob. I'm dead serious when I say that in the time it took this guy to assemble his tool I can have a piston depressed already.
Like I said, really nice ones are about $15 and cheapos are $5 and are way more compact than his.
zapwatt 1 year ago
@zapwatt Well technically the time spent using the wrench is dependent entirely on the fact that he is using just a regular wrench. Btw using one of the old brake pads + a C-clamp only requires twisting the knob on the c-clamp and then you haven't spent 5 dollars on a tool you will only use once in a while.
Yeah it is only 5 bucks but what the hell i can put my pads on and go to taco bell with my 5 bucks in hand instead XD
sidescrollin 1 year ago
boone has the right idea, you can use a large screwdriver and small prybar and pry the caliper back right on the car with the old pads in place and sub a new shoe when you get too much gap as long as you dont mar the rotor surface and dont pry on the new pad's brake material, helps to loosen the caliper mount bolts - I havent used a c clamp or any tool in 20 + years JHMO
levimariah 1 year ago
Thank you kindly for the demonstration, also for mentioning what happens with the now excessive brake fluid.
CLUTCHNSHIFT 1 year ago
Everybody has their own way of doing it. But what i usualy do is take a tire tool. Turn the wheel to the direction of what side i am doing brakes. I take the tip and jamm it between the pad and rotor and pry. It goes in really easy as long as there aint no other issues with the brakes
TheBoone420 1 year ago
u got ur daugther helping u lo
hp11208 1 year ago
patent that - or approach jiffy lube... you're cute too.
blahblahchachacha 1 year ago
my tool is made...your way...awesome man...you are a good man......the tool worked great
hellprince13 1 year ago
Thats a nifty tool you got there.......myself, I place the old brake pads on the calliper cylinder and push the cylinder back using a C CLAMP.
No. I do not have video of this method.
LockedUpDead98 1 year ago
Nice video dude, Have you thought of doing the cheap "Big Brake Upgrade"? I have a 99 Grand am With pretty much the same Braking System, it involves a 98-02 Camaro/ Firebird 2 Piston Calipers (Dual Piston) and 12" Impala Rotors, I will be posting the Video up soon and I will show you how it looks before and after :)
Ask more if needed bud :P
BoxerMuscleMilk 1 year ago
many say that the new and or old rusty damp oxidized brake fluid should not be pushed back through the master cylinder servo control system cos it can flip some rubber seals back in there needing expensive rebuild or replacement, or it can push rust dirt into it and make troube that way , but me , I know very little about this. so they say it is better to open the bleed nipple while pushing the caliper back and let the fluid out of the caliper.
orangestoneface 1 year ago
@orangestoneface how true you are about the old fluid ....i would do the same ...drain the old stuff...but the cars that i do this to have pretty clean fluid...thats for a very good comment...thanks... (viewers keep this in mind )
TheTeddy214 1 year ago
NIce tool have you tried taking a c clamp and old brake pad. Place the flat smooth surface of the old pad over the piston attach c clamp and tighten and it pushes it back
zarkothe 1 year ago
what a brilliant idea!. I have never seen before. you are the best. good work..
TheKopassuss 1 year ago
Excellent idea man, worked perfect for me.
dafreak83 2 years ago
great video thanks
bggb29 2 years ago
thanks for comment i been using this tool on all different vehicles...
TheTeddy214 2 years ago