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  • Anyone have a way to remove the wire intact for use in other projects (like making little handwound motors?)

  • @retrotrs80 nah, its mostly dipped in enamel and it tears up the coating on the wire when you separate it.

    Some small fridge comps like the newer Danfoss ones have un-dipped stators which you could unwind without trouble tho

  • You only need to cut copper on one side of the staters. and punch out to non cut side.

  • @MrRazputain yeah I found it gets stuck too often, most motor shops I've seen cut both ends.

  • @Aussie50 its been years since i did these so your way works. i had two angle irons set up as a stand slightly V,ed and would slide stater in before punching them down. a bit at a time worked best. but cutting both ends seems to work quickly.

  • you can charge big $ selling as is junk on eBay (& you w/ your scrap yard work/conections are sitting on a goldmine!, trust me I've made my nest egg JUST from the dumps/scrapyards buying stuff at TL retail & flipping for massive profit (off course here in the states the laws are more lax) just write I sell a varity of items from pure useless junk to some real finds, trash or treasure you decide w/ your bid" & as is where is, start at .99 cents NR you can also add a pentagram to deter negative fb

  • what does IGBT stand for

  • @HDXFH Integrated Gate Bi-Polar Transistor

  • hello mate, when i was an apprentice i had to do some time in the rewind shop stripping motors for rewind. we used to chop the termination end off with a wood chisel and hammer. the shop had a pulling machine, similar to a engine hoist setup, but using an pneumatic cylinder and foot switch, on the arm was a chain with a pair of pliers welded on. clamp the stator to the bed, push the foot switch down came the chain grab the end of the winding off with the foot switch out comes the winding.

  • and of course the power step up if its not ungodly to ship

  • @walkingfreak yeah I'm putting a large box together at the moment, the PSU won't occupy much.

    biggest thing is the PLC and relays.

    I can't release faulty HDD's in the interest of data security, but good ones I can format and check for additional cost.

  • @Aussie50 Alright no harddrives then just the PLC if its not ungodly to ship haha

  • @walkingfreak Air mail is $138.80 AUD

    Sea is $82.80 (12 - 14 weeks for delivery)

  • @Aussie50 :| fuck that!!! i dont have 82 bucks i only have 50! haha and im using that for ipod parts holyfuckingshit i did not expect it to be that expensive

  • @walkingfreak lol the currency conversion changes things a bit but with the price of the parts its over $100USD I think.

    I hate international shipping costs. its all based on weight. I could just ship the PLC box alone for less, but the relay panel really belongs to it.

    I do have a GE Fanuc Series 1 Junior Industrial PLC, but no software for it.

  • @Aussie50 Oh and will that be the same to ship or less?!

  • @walkingfreak less.

    $75 AUD shipped. no PSU's tho

  • @Aussie50 What PSU does it need?

  • @walkingfreak its built in. 240 or 120V 50 or 60 Hz.

    but the price quote dosn't include the DC-DC voltage converters we discussed earlier

  • @Aussie50 Alright well il pass i dont have that money right now i wish i did but i dont

  • @walkingfreak ah thats okay. shipping is the deal killer on the international market :(

  • i still want that PLC :D and a few faulty or working harddrives

  • just curious, what kind of stuff do you have available besides power supplies? i'd really like one of those bottle chillers V8 Jagnut has, but I think it would be way too expensive to ship one over here and I don't think they'd run right on our power :P

  • @coolbluelights I'll be doing more videos this weekend, the bottle chiller won't run on 120/60hz but you could get a step-up transformer.

    shipping would be about $50 AUD via surface freight (pressurized systems are prohibited goods in air freight :( )

  • @Aussie50 that would be awesome.. maybe I could make a transformer.. i've read an article about it and seems like they're not hard to make, just gotta get the turns ratio right. and it'll probably run fast on 60 Hz :D

  • @ControlledExplosions cool, talk to V8jagnut if you want one, I'm all out of surplus chillers :(

  • cool. good to see you sold a lot of that stuff.

  • I think i can help you with testing the IGBT bricks, i have used them in the past.

    When testing them i wire up each igbt with the emitter to ground and a loght bulb between B+ and the collector, then i send a square wave signal of around 10-12V into the gate, if the bulb flashes the igbt is working, if it doesent or if its lit continously you either wired the wrong gate or the igbt is dead.

    I also test them in halfbridge mode to make sure they work properly.

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