I'm working on an older Ruger 10/22 with a metal receiver that has a few scratches on it. Do I need to take it down to bare metal to apply Aluma-Hyde II, or can I just feather the scratches and coat over the factory finish?
One tip is to not go too heavy and to tape off areas where there is metal to metal contact, such as where the slide contacts the frame of a handgun . I didn't realize how thick I applied this the first time I used it. FYI, this stuff works great on a a damaged wood stock filled with bondo. It cures hard and looks great.
The matte black is in fact black even though the web shot may look a different color. With Gun Kote you can cure a base coat and then apply an overcoat of any color in Gun Kote and then cure the overcoat in the same manner.
Well after a fair amount of research I have decided to go with Aluma-Hyde II for a restoration project with my Winny Defender. I am putting a black forend and stock on, and then I'm going to do the metal parts in either green or coyote.
What do you recommend I use for de-greasing? Does Brownells sell anything for that purpose? Thanks a bunch.
Do you wet or dry sand the cured Aluma Hyde II? I have no runs but there are some areas that would look nicer smoothed out a bit. I'm painting a wood SKS stock. I was hoping to sand with 1000 grit once cured, then respray, cure, then clear.
You may sand areas with either wet or dry so long as the coating is fully cured. You will most likely find you will have to "sand" the entire stock if you use fine grit sandpaper, in order to achieve a uniform finish. You may find using "Stock Sheen" or Triple F compound will work better for you.
I've been super pleased with Aluma-Hyde II. Been searching for a while for a decent FDE paint. I've found that compared to the various brands of paint out there, straight out of the can, Brownells' Coyote Aluma-Hyde II paint most closely matches Magpul's FDE. Awesome stuff and easy to use. The only hard part was reminding myself not to touch the parts until the paint was fully cured. =)
That looks like a bolt action you are painting. Do you have to worry about getting Alumahyde inside the action? How about where the barrel threads into the action?
If I wanted to paint my bolt as well, should I only paint the handle, or could I spray the lugs and all exposed parts of the bolt as well?
Aluma Hyde II has no lubrication qualities and the pigment can be a thicker coating than would be desired on the inside of a firearm action. It is best to mask off or remove overspray from the bolt body or bolt raceway and similar friction bearing surfaces before curing occurs. If the bolt body is masked the handle can be coated without fear of an interference fit between the bolt and action of the gun.
I'm working on an older Ruger 10/22 with a metal receiver that has a few scratches on it. Do I need to take it down to bare metal to apply Aluma-Hyde II, or can I just feather the scratches and coat over the factory finish?
peteosco 5 months ago
will it work on stainless steal ?
crawford1911colt 6 months ago
One tip is to not go too heavy and to tape off areas where there is metal to metal contact, such as where the slide contacts the frame of a handgun . I didn't realize how thick I applied this the first time I used it. FYI, this stuff works great on a a damaged wood stock filled with bondo. It cures hard and looks great.
pector55 9 months ago
Followed this video exactly, came out great. Do not overspray, it will get glossy! If you do exactly what he does in the video, it comes out perfect.
tacticaltrigger 11 months ago
I just re did a Rem.870 and it went on great giving a awesome finish. Now I am waiting till the weekend to fully reassemble it.
irag2362 11 months ago
Is it okay to get this in the action of a bolt rifle or should it be kept out of the action?
huntwithairguns 1 year ago
Thats his wife's "heat gun".
derekmcgoldrick 1 year ago
Is it required to clean the gun and gun parts with mineral spirits before applying Aluma Hyde? Thanks!!!
UrbanTiger74 1 year ago
Brownells, PLEASE offer Aluma-Hude II in a foliage green that matches Magpul foliage green. That would be awesome. Thanks.
HarlanCoOutlaw 1 year ago
@HarlanCoOutlaw Aluma-*Hyde* II, woops.
HarlanCoOutlaw 1 year ago
Can I use this on stainless steel guns? I'm looking for a paint or finish for SS that doesn't require the baking process.
elpidiovaldez4ever 2 years ago
Is there somewhere I can see the difference between matte black and gloss black?
On Brownells website the matte black looks too grey, with a little brown in it, but the gloss looks like a true black.
Could I use gloss black, let it cure, then cover it with clear matte?
Omnignosis 2 years ago
The matte black is in fact black even though the web shot may look a different color. With Gun Kote you can cure a base coat and then apply an overcoat of any color in Gun Kote and then cure the overcoat in the same manner.
[Monty Crain]
brownellsinc 2 years ago
@brownellsinc
Thanks for the info.
I have since used the gloss black, let it cure fully, then gone over it with clear matte and it looks awesome.
I did it on my AR-22 project and an old AK.
Omnignosis 2 years ago
Well after a fair amount of research I have decided to go with Aluma-Hyde II for a restoration project with my Winny Defender. I am putting a black forend and stock on, and then I'm going to do the metal parts in either green or coyote.
What do you recommend I use for de-greasing? Does Brownells sell anything for that purpose? Thanks a bunch.
kbilyak04 2 years ago
I found it. I answered my own question, but thanks anyway, and thanks for the vid.
kbilyak04 2 years ago
I LOVE THIS SHIT !!!!
gruntspy44 2 years ago
Does this work on plastics?
clap5 2 years ago
What site can I buy this? The brownells site is hard to navigate threw and midwayusa's site doesn't have it listed.
clap5 2 years ago
Can you spray over an anodized finish?.
Ocyris4 2 years ago
Can it be sprayed over anodizing?
Ocyris4 2 years ago
Do you wet or dry sand the cured Aluma Hyde II? I have no runs but there are some areas that would look nicer smoothed out a bit. I'm painting a wood SKS stock. I was hoping to sand with 1000 grit once cured, then respray, cure, then clear.
pector55 3 years ago
You may sand areas with either wet or dry so long as the coating is fully cured. You will most likely find you will have to "sand" the entire stock if you use fine grit sandpaper, in order to achieve a uniform finish. You may find using "Stock Sheen" or Triple F compound will work better for you.
brownellsinc 3 years ago
I've been super pleased with Aluma-Hyde II. Been searching for a while for a decent FDE paint. I've found that compared to the various brands of paint out there, straight out of the can, Brownells' Coyote Aluma-Hyde II paint most closely matches Magpul's FDE. Awesome stuff and easy to use. The only hard part was reminding myself not to touch the parts until the paint was fully cured. =)
uscmCorps 3 years ago
We're glad you like it!
brownellsinc 3 years ago
That looks like a bolt action you are painting. Do you have to worry about getting Alumahyde inside the action? How about where the barrel threads into the action?
If I wanted to paint my bolt as well, should I only paint the handle, or could I spray the lugs and all exposed parts of the bolt as well?
speelyei 3 years ago
Aluma Hyde II has no lubrication qualities and the pigment can be a thicker coating than would be desired on the inside of a firearm action. It is best to mask off or remove overspray from the bolt body or bolt raceway and similar friction bearing surfaces before curing occurs. If the bolt body is masked the handle can be coated without fear of an interference fit between the bolt and action of the gun.
brownellsinc 3 years ago
Thanks for the tips guys.
CAB
CAB707 4 years ago
Thank You For The Great Info!
VaiGod1 4 years ago