Added: 2 years ago
From: soloIIman
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  • Misleading title.

  • To all the people who are saying this needs replaced and that needs replaced, proper techs base theyre repairs on evidence that suggest something needs to be replaced or maybe even repaired without replacement parts, just because it worked for you, your uncle, your girlfriends mum, dosent mean it will always be the problem, diagnose and dont assume!

  • You probably already know this, but all dealerships are privately owned, they only have to fix warranty and tsb issues, they are usually ####'# if you know what i mean, there are good dealers out there but not many, I have worked at one where they forced us techs to put cars out without repair and still charged the customer. That is why mazda is willing to help, Just saying dont let a dealership change your view of a manufacturer!

  • check ur pcv valve 

  • put more windshield wiper fluid in it. that will fix it

  • im not really sure if it has anything to do with running rich but the coils failing caused more problems including the catalytic converter dying on me twice. ya that was expensive to fix. this is one of those problems that basically you need to get lucky and have the car have this happen to you at the shop because if they cant duplicate the problem they wont be able to fix it. my car was going back and fourth between this and normal for like four months until it had the issue at the repair place

  • hey man i own a Mazda tribute and i know its a different car but i had the same smoke coming out of it and got the same run around from all the mechanics i took it to. idk if it helps but my car was finally diagnosed with bad engine coils and when they were replaced the car ran fine. it might not help but i would see if you can get the coils checked out

  • @boxybrown4421 Thanks for your post. Interesting that coils caused the smoke. Did they attribute it to running rich due to misfires?

  • Plastic bypass valve needs to be replaced..

  • Thats what happens when you drive the shit out of a new car. Thats why you take it easy until its broke in.

  • @Michiganman2cali I would agree that abusing a new car would result in excess wear, however in this case, I purchased the car new and observed the 1500 mile break-in period. This couldn't be attributed to mishandling the car unless the dealer abused it before I arrived on the scene.

    Additionally, a car needs to provide what is advertised. You cant argue that any mazdaspeed car shouldn't be driven hard once broken in, that's exactly what was sold and what was bought.

  • dealerships are a scam

  • @jhaze918

    Yes! Thank you! So many morons go their anyway and get just destroyed in prices!

    I only go if its under warranty

  • Hey, tell them to check the turbo seals..i have one of these and this happens when the turbo seals decide to fail..Hope that helps

  • only 16K miles, nice..i have 78k but no issue at all with anything. =) *knock of wood*

  • ok i not saying im right but i think that all the cars they out turbo in i think it runs them overtime and i would say thats what happend to your car the turbo has runed it your oil housis what i think happend is that your oil so how got mixed in with another liquid ( because of the turbo) you know turbo builds up a lot of pressure in your engine and the your car probably is burning oil along with another liquid thats my wiled guess :D

  • is diesel!!!!! what do you expect men?

  • I had the same exact issue with my Mazdaspeed 3 and Mazda USA denied my claim because I had a downpipe on the car (it's obvious it's the shitty k04 turbos they use since it even does it on stock vehicles). I since then sold the car and upgraded. I'm done with Mazda and their customer service. They also voided my whole power train warranty without even letting me know all because of the downpipe.

  • The 4th call to "Mazda Customer Care" went as well as the first 3. They will not perform any work until the dealer witnesses the smoke themselves and "reads the codes". I have no choice but to wait until it gets bad enough to reproduce or just blow up I guess. In the meantime I will be embarrassed by a brand new smoking car when it does occur.

  • My turbo started smoking again yesterday while idling in a parking lot. I started the car and was reading a book for about 15 minutes when I noticed the rear being engulfed in smoke. I took a pic on my phone and drove off hoping the smoke would subside. It was about 4 miles down the road before it stopped. I'm going to make my 4th call to Mazda tomorrow, this is both absolutely ridiculous and embarrassing.

  • its your turbo seals the turbo is shot,..i had to replace 3 of them and then my motor blew sale the car...

  • I'm curious if the CX-7's ever experience turbo failure. Even though the engine performs very well, reliability is paramount and so far I am very unimpressed.

  • i have not herd of the cx-7 having any problems..I agree with u i was not happy when mine started to smoke...Check your oil level i know sometimes when i had my car mazda would over fill a little...

  • Its not the engine its the turbo. In fact very few later models of the speed 6 have this issue. The Cx7 also has a different turbo. Its the same part # but with different trim sizes / etc. Gives power lower in the powerband. I suggest visiting mazda forums and learning about this issue and trying synthetic oil 10W-40. That alone helps a lot of people.

  • The TSB suggests using the higher viscosity oil, but I don't believe that is a solution. If the oil is bypassing the bearing seal, the higher viscosity oil may prevent the oil from squeezing through but the pressure that is causing the leak (or weak seal) still exists. Changing the oil will merely delay the failure to a later date when the slightly older seal can no longer cope with the slightly higher viscosity oil, leading to another viscosity increase.

  • Yep you are right. Thicker oil is just a way to "patch" the problem. Maybe you should just let it get worse so you can get a new turbo.

    I read somewhere on mazda247 forums that the turbos are the same part # but have different turbine wheels / etc. Not sure if thats accurate though.

  • @thegarbageman21 actually no. No where else in the world does this problem happen, because most oils elsewhere at least meet ACEA A3 HTHS ratings. In North America the oils are thin for their marked grades and they all bear "Energy Conserving" on them, up to 10w30. These oils are rather unsuitable for high torque turbo engines, as they get vapourized in localized hotspots suchas a turbo bearing sections. The HItachiwarner seal design isnt a problem when using a motor oil with a competent HTHS

  • @youngbleeb So why would an upgraded turbo fix the situation given the same oil??

    Oil shouldn't be there in the first place regardless of vaporization. Thicker oil as you say helps alleviate the situation but the seals are the root of the problem.

  • how does oil get inside?

  • @youngbleeb The oil gets into the exhaust by slipping past the turbo seals. Thicker oil can help alleviate the problem but thats only covering up the root cause.

  • @thegarbageman21 yes man. there are 2 angles. oil only gets thin enough to slip past the seals if it breaks down far beyond it's grade. the big alarm bell is "hey the oil i'm using is breaking down to WD40 at the hottest parts of the engine" only when the hot car's shut down and the turbo is heatsoaking. imo, thats rly bad. oil getting past the seals is just a tell tale that my oil's 'stay-in-grade' is inadequate. another seal design may mask *that* problem. EDM, JDM dont see this problem tho

  • @youngbleeb The issue isn't with the oil. Its a design pressure flaw which is why aftermarket downpipes "cause" many turbos to start smoking. It has nothing to do with the cat covering up all that smoke, thats impossible. Aftermarket downpipes decrease the post turbo pressure. As a result the pre turbo pressure increases. The oil at idle thus goes backwards which is where the prob arises. If your theory is correct than the cars would smoke in boost which doesn't happen ever. Only at idle.

  • @thegarbageman21 Yes, downpipes exascerbate the issue. Inlet pipes also solve it :) This happens in stock trims too. In boost, it would not happen, because there is both oil and coolant flowing through the unit. Once you shut off a hot turbo with an EC oil, the oil in the bearings stays there and cooks. It becomes so thin that with no pressure at all, it begins to make its way through the seal. Once restarted, that oil is burned off in the turbine. Cats do in fact hide a bit of it.

  • @youngbleeb Yes you *can* call it a design issue, I didnt dispute that. Its a bit like NIKASIL. Without high sulfur gas, it demonstrates superior hardness. But because fuels were so full of sulfur back then, the cylinder walls were destroyed by chemical means. The engineers using their own domestic fuels (of higher quality of course) never saw that coming. I personally am not a fan of the K04 in the least, it's too small but i would still stay clear from EC oils in this app. synthetic or not.

  • I understand why the trim would be different in the CX-7, but how does it remain the same part number? I can see sharing the housings/bearings/downpipes etc but the compressor and turbine wheels being different should cause the part numbers to be different as well. I haven't checked my build date. Do you know when production stopped?

  • That can build up carbon in your enigne. You should get an apexi safc!

  • We still haven't heard of a real fix from Mazda with part numbers on any of the forums. If you get any work done on it, please record the part numbers and report back. PTP's fix and my banjo bolt restrictor both worked for me... but I will still get what ever fix Mazda comes up with if they ever do release one that works. I've had my turbo replaced twice and still smoke at just past 20,000 miles (12K at first replacement and 18K for second one). :-(

  • Ill definitely post whatever solution they do offer, if they offer one. Did Mazda replace your turbo under warranty or is your car modded?

  • Yes, replaced twice. As for mods, I go by the "not when they look at it" motto. :-)

  • On the 9th I spoke with Mazda Customer Care again but opted to be routed to the next available person. However the next in line service rep said I would need to speak with Jennifer and said he would send her a message that I called.

    2 days later, no return call.

    Has anyone here had a good experience with Mazda Customer Care?

  • As an update, I never recieved a call back from Jennifer at Mazda customer care. I left her a message on the 2nd with the location of this video in case she would like to look at it, but that message still didnt provoke a return call. I beleive at this point that Mazda has little concern over this issue. Its quite a shame really. Seeing a new car smoking is usualy a turn off for anyone and a warning sign at the least.

  • Agreed that overrich conditions produce black smoke and oil produces blue smoke. White smoke is either coolant vapor or brake fluid that has bypassed the rear master cyllinder seal and entered the booster. In my car, the long-term fuel trim and strong smell indicate a rich condition along with burning oil. I cant say what the relative load is, the OBD2007 was showing a 20% load at idle with 9inHg, but I would have to compare with a normal sampling to know for sure.

  • its not running rich, its burning oil. if it was running rich the smoke would be black.

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