i have a 79 trojan express. and im going to refinish all the teak/wood in the cabin as well as the swim/dive platform,spray rails, the steps to the flybridge ect. would this method here work for that? i understand a satin finish for inside the cabin is probaby best. but i like the shiny look you have here.
@antlrking1 It would work great for rails, steps and platform (providing it doesn't get alot of wear/tear as the finish is relatively soft). My general rule of thumb is exterior solid wood that isn't a wear surface gets this finish; wear areas are better to let grey or use an oil as it hides scratches, etc. Interior as you mentioned is better with a dulled finish (just easier on the eyes), so I probably wouldn't suggest this for bulkheads, trim, etc but would for the sole (floor)..
I've built an outdoor table using pressure treated pine. I was advised to use a marine spar varnish to protect it, but this seems to be a very in-depth process for something like that. I've got about 20 hours into the table build, so I don't want another 20 in sealing/varnishing, but I do want the table protected and looking nice. Any tips for what to use? It is a five foot by two foot table with a lower shelf that I will drop a big green egg grill into.
I would probably use a good quality oil based exterior paint / deck finish. Generally, varnishes are not really meant for 'working' surfaces as it scratches too easily and many finishes have a difficult time bonding with pressure treated wood. Check with the major paint manufacturers to see what they have for treating exterior stairs/decks as they are generally built with PTL. Hopefully they have something that gives the appearance you're looking for. Hope this helps!
It would work very well, however I would consider 2 things; personally I prefer to use a satin finish (rather than high gloss) for interior work, also for a flooring project a 2 part varnish will give you a much harder surface (less prone to scratches and will wear better under foot traffic). I don't really recommend 1 part finishes for "wear surfaces" as it's just too soft. :-)
Thanks for the information, I'm am almost to the finishing stage off my cabin sole and need more input. I have rough fitted all the sole panels and it looks fantastic from what it was. I'm going to finish everything as you have shared and I was planning to use Interlux Perfection 2 part varnish. My first questions, is there an additive for a satin finish? and when final fitting the sole panels what would you suggest be removed to allow for finishing?
@Caribsailor Good to hear your making progress :-) I don't know of any kind of additive to flatten the finish, generally you go over top with another product that gives this kind of finish; Goldspar Satin or Epifanes Rubbed Effect Varnish are both good choices (1-2 coats). When finishing, if possible it's best to do this off the boat and install the panels when they are done. If not possible, remove all cushions, blankets, etc (things that hold dust) and clean, clean, clean. Wipe everything!
I enjoyed the video. I don't recall any comments on the "bottom" of the piece of wood. Is it necessary to coat the bottom or can it be left unfinished?
It's never a bad idea; there wouldn't be any need to coat with the varnish, just the epoxy would be good. On the pieces I made for the video, they were being mounted with a bedding compound which seals out the moisture, so that's why I didn't epoxy the backside.
Any experience with problems related to the hard nature of epoxy on a "living" peice of teak? I'm wondering about using epoxy on teak myself, but I read that a lot of people recommend against it. Mostly because its harder to remove and maintain I guess.
I have not run into any issues doing this with teak; just make sure that the moisture content is low (10% or so) and the surface has been cleaned properly. One issue epoxy greatly reduces is the lifting of the finish from the wood (much stronger bond). Maintenance coats should only be working with the varnish layers and really shouldn't get into the epoxy coats at all. Overall, results and longevity have been very good. Hope this helps!
i have a 79 trojan express. and im going to refinish all the teak/wood in the cabin as well as the swim/dive platform,spray rails, the steps to the flybridge ect. would this method here work for that? i understand a satin finish for inside the cabin is probaby best. but i like the shiny look you have here.
antlrking1 1 month ago
@antlrking1 It would work great for rails, steps and platform (providing it doesn't get alot of wear/tear as the finish is relatively soft). My general rule of thumb is exterior solid wood that isn't a wear surface gets this finish; wear areas are better to let grey or use an oil as it hides scratches, etc. Interior as you mentioned is better with a dulled finish (just easier on the eyes), so I probably wouldn't suggest this for bulkheads, trim, etc but would for the sole (floor)..
boatworkstoday 1 month ago
I've built an outdoor table using pressure treated pine. I was advised to use a marine spar varnish to protect it, but this seems to be a very in-depth process for something like that. I've got about 20 hours into the table build, so I don't want another 20 in sealing/varnishing, but I do want the table protected and looking nice. Any tips for what to use? It is a five foot by two foot table with a lower shelf that I will drop a big green egg grill into.
tsheehan7 2 months ago
@tsheehan7
I would probably use a good quality oil based exterior paint / deck finish. Generally, varnishes are not really meant for 'working' surfaces as it scratches too easily and many finishes have a difficult time bonding with pressure treated wood. Check with the major paint manufacturers to see what they have for treating exterior stairs/decks as they are generally built with PTL. Hopefully they have something that gives the appearance you're looking for. Hope this helps!
boatworkstoday 2 months ago
Thank you for the tutorial .
Would you recommend this process for a new teak & holly cabin sole?
Caribsailor 5 months ago
@Caribsailor
It would work very well, however I would consider 2 things; personally I prefer to use a satin finish (rather than high gloss) for interior work, also for a flooring project a 2 part varnish will give you a much harder surface (less prone to scratches and will wear better under foot traffic). I don't really recommend 1 part finishes for "wear surfaces" as it's just too soft. :-)
boatworkstoday 5 months ago
@boatworkstoday
Thanks for the information, I'm am almost to the finishing stage off my cabin sole and need more input. I have rough fitted all the sole panels and it looks fantastic from what it was. I'm going to finish everything as you have shared and I was planning to use Interlux Perfection 2 part varnish. My first questions, is there an additive for a satin finish? and when final fitting the sole panels what would you suggest be removed to allow for finishing?
Caribsailor 3 months ago
@Caribsailor Good to hear your making progress :-) I don't know of any kind of additive to flatten the finish, generally you go over top with another product that gives this kind of finish; Goldspar Satin or Epifanes Rubbed Effect Varnish are both good choices (1-2 coats). When finishing, if possible it's best to do this off the boat and install the panels when they are done. If not possible, remove all cushions, blankets, etc (things that hold dust) and clean, clean, clean. Wipe everything!
boatworkstoday 3 months ago
I enjoyed the video. I don't recall any comments on the "bottom" of the piece of wood. Is it necessary to coat the bottom or can it be left unfinished?
GradyBB 8 months ago
@GradyBB
It's never a bad idea; there wouldn't be any need to coat with the varnish, just the epoxy would be good. On the pieces I made for the video, they were being mounted with a bedding compound which seals out the moisture, so that's why I didn't epoxy the backside.
boatworkstoday 8 months ago
Damn, thats nice! :)
Any experience with problems related to the hard nature of epoxy on a "living" peice of teak? I'm wondering about using epoxy on teak myself, but I read that a lot of people recommend against it. Mostly because its harder to remove and maintain I guess.
paaloliver 8 months ago
@paaloliver
I have not run into any issues doing this with teak; just make sure that the moisture content is low (10% or so) and the surface has been cleaned properly. One issue epoxy greatly reduces is the lifting of the finish from the wood (much stronger bond). Maintenance coats should only be working with the varnish layers and really shouldn't get into the epoxy coats at all. Overall, results and longevity have been very good. Hope this helps!
boatworkstoday 8 months ago