@CaptRon1953 - It is a "Phil's Phalse Bottom" from Listermann , they make a stainless one as well, the plastic one shown was a gift, but it is pretty inexpensive
Sure would have been better of you had included the step of showing the A-298 and A-786 plus SS washer dissassembled. You said that is is difficult so that means it sould have been included. This would have been a great video with that assemply added in. It is still a good video but missing part of the assembly proceedure.
@Engineer245 - Who am I to pretend to "greatness"??
As I said in the video those three parts were pre-assembled simply because I found them hard to put together in the first place, and I didn't want to disassemble them for the video. The omission was minor, so I hope the video was still helpful in any case...
You don't have to sterilize it, of course, but when I am in cleaning mode I sometimes go a bit overboard, it doesn't hurt anything and it costs me little...
In this video I am using a 5 gallon cooler, I've heard good and bad about using the ten gal coolers. In the end, I decided that when I go to ten gal batches I will convert a keg this same way, more or less, but keep this cooler for the occasional small batch.
Measure the floor of your cooler and get whichever size covers best without being too large. Mine is more about 9.75" so I am assuming it is a 10, and it darn near touches the sides of the cooler.
If you can get your hand on a SS false bottom, then I would say get that, it will last longer!
just found this guy's mod instructions today- built it too. no drip at full capacity for hours. i used a tee inside and 2 barbs- then ran a circular hose sleeve. also used a 5/8" neoprene washer on each side of the cooler. BTW- the O ring is #12.
This was an outstanding video. The only issue I had was getting all of the threaded parts to completely tighten. Instead of using one stainless fender washer on the inside & 3 on the outside, I had to use 4 on both sides. Also, stainless steel fender washers are almost impossible to find. I had to special order them and they cost $1.60 a piece. After adding the additional washers, I was able to brew my first all grain batch with no significant issues. I can't wait to taste my Beligian IPA.
It is, the grains ( hopefully) float on top of a layer of water right on top of the false bottom, gravity pushes the liquid thru the bottom and then forces it up thru the pick-up tube and out the valve. This design is a necessity of the bev cooler, a commercial mastun drains straight down...
Great! I unfortunately had a different brand of cooler, so I had to find some different parts to fit. But having this video, with its specific list of parts, made it so much easier than if I had to start from scratch. Thanks!
Thanks for the good info - honestly thought I don't think you need to sanitize it because it is on the hot side - anything that is transferred into the wort will be killed during the boil
Does anyone know what size wrench you need to loosen the crap plastic nut on the inside of a Rubbermaid cooler? I can't find this info anywhere and all my wrenches are a tad too small.
Great video! Very easy to follow and informative. I am sure you may already know this, but there is no need to sanitize your equipment at this point as your wort will be boiled and sterilized after the mash. Just wanted to add for any new brewers out there. Thanks again.
Great video. Had a difficult time finding stainless steel washers. Did you have to pre treat the brass fittings? I read about lead contaminant in brass that you can clean with vinegar and hydrogen peroxide.
My washers are zinc, but since they are just spacers that never come in contact with the beer I'm not too worried.
If there is lead in the brass I would assume, and I'm no expert, but I would assume that it would be in alloy not just a surface contaminant. I scrubbed and washed the parts as best I could with a hot water/starsan solution, but I will look into what you mention...
I only do 5gal batches due to my failure to find a keg as of yet ( and refusal to pay for a professionally made one ) My Brother-in-law, who is the "real" Zymurgist says that he has done 10 gal batches in his, it comes down to the ratio of water to grain...
The pink tape is teflon tape to help seal the threads, ( pink for water, yellow for nat gas, et...) and prohibit leaks. It is not really neccesary since the pressure is so low, but it is "good plumbing practice" so I used it...
Where did you get that false bottom from.
TheHammer609 19 hours ago in playlist Favorite videos
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great job on the video, is there a source for the false bottom or info to fabricate one?
Thanks.
CaptRon1953 1 year ago
great job on the video, is there a source for the false bottom or info to fabricate one?
Thanks.
CaptRon1953 1 year ago
@CaptRon1953 - It is a "Phil's Phalse Bottom" from Listermann , they make a stainless one as well, the plastic one shown was a gift, but it is pretty inexpensive
OPE08 1 year ago
This is THE best guide to make a cheap, simple mash tun that I've found. Thank you so very much. Favorited for later use :-)
TheAlmightyFSM 1 year ago
@TheAlmightyFSM - You're welcome! and praise his noodly appendages...
OPE08 1 year ago
@OPE08 Indeed! Hahaha...
TheAlmightyFSM 1 year ago
Great help, thanks.
strawalker 1 year ago
@strawalker - YW! looks like I'll be using the mashtun this weekend! I'll see what I can do about posting video
OPE08 1 year ago
Sure would have been better of you had included the step of showing the A-298 and A-786 plus SS washer dissassembled. You said that is is difficult so that means it sould have been included. This would have been a great video with that assemply added in. It is still a good video but missing part of the assembly proceedure.
Engineer245 1 year ago
@Engineer245 - Who am I to pretend to "greatness"??
As I said in the video those three parts were pre-assembled simply because I found them hard to put together in the first place, and I didn't want to disassemble them for the video. The omission was minor, so I hope the video was still helpful in any case...
cheers!
OPE08 1 year ago
Hay man, make us a video on how to do the hard to assemble parts. Thanks, Cheers!
REGreenTeam 1 year ago
why would you sterilize that if you're going to boil the wort?? Thanks for the video, I think I'll be doing this this weekend!
cryingmelodies25 2 years ago
You don't have to sterilize it, of course, but when I am in cleaning mode I sometimes go a bit overboard, it doesn't hurt anything and it costs me little...
STARSAN FTW!!
OPE08 2 years ago
Barbadaaaapttttoooooorrrrrr. dickbutt.
rhapsody1210 2 years ago
LOL!!
OPE08 2 years ago
how is the false bottom made? good video thanks
ZiggyTrek 2 years ago
Its a "Phil's Phalse Bottom" from Listermann Products.
Its nothing more than a convex plastic dome, perforated, with a small pickup tube attachment on the top...
Look up Listermann's website...
OPE08 2 years ago
First time I've seen anyone give part numbers and explain things so well. Thanks OPE08! Will be watching for more of your Vid's.
fenomeno71 2 years ago
These pieces are obviously the right ones but are too small for a 10 gallon Gott Cooler. Thanks though. Just a few return items and I'm on my way.
adamwheel 2 years ago
Well I apologize for that, I used a 5 gallon rubbermaid unit, but I was told the valve was the same size in both brands...
Let me know how yours comes out!
OPE08 2 years ago
Comment removed
paleowarrior1 2 years ago
does anyone know if any changes would need to be made if using a 5 gallon cooler instead of a 10?
paleowarrior1 2 years ago
In this video I am using a 5 gallon cooler, I've heard good and bad about using the ten gal coolers. In the end, I decided that when I go to ten gal batches I will convert a keg this same way, more or less, but keep this cooler for the occasional small batch.
OPE08 2 years ago
one last question, is the false bottom a 9" or 10"?
paleowarrior1 2 years ago
Its a 10"...
does Listermann make 9"? or were you going to buy a stainless one?
OPE08 2 years ago
Comment removed
paleowarrior1 2 years ago
Listermann does have a 9", would you recommend that over the 10"?
paleowarrior1 2 years ago
Measure the floor of your cooler and get whichever size covers best without being too large. Mine is more about 9.75" so I am assuming it is a 10, and it darn near touches the sides of the cooler.
If you can get your hand on a SS false bottom, then I would say get that, it will last longer!
OPE08 2 years ago
sounds good, Midwest supplies sells SS false bottoms same price as Listermann's.
paleowarrior1 2 years ago
just read the fine print, they are out of stock with the 9"!!!
paleowarrior1 2 years ago
just found this guy's mod instructions today- built it too. no drip at full capacity for hours. i used a tee inside and 2 barbs- then ran a circular hose sleeve. also used a 5/8" neoprene washer on each side of the cooler. BTW- the O ring is #12.
MTEXX2 2 years ago
Awesome, thanks. I gave the Mfc part#'s in hopes that it would be just as easy to find.
OPE08 2 years ago
This was an outstanding video. The only issue I had was getting all of the threaded parts to completely tighten. Instead of using one stainless fender washer on the inside & 3 on the outside, I had to use 4 on both sides. Also, stainless steel fender washers are almost impossible to find. I had to special order them and they cost $1.60 a piece. After adding the additional washers, I was able to brew my first all grain batch with no significant issues. I can't wait to taste my Beligian IPA.
rpjonesga 2 years ago
Sorry to hear that. For others reading- you only need SS on the inside. The washer/spacers on the outside need not be SS.
MTEXX2 2 years ago
is there another tube under the flase bottom then?
diebelt1 2 years ago
the false bottom looked like it was below the spout....so whats the point
diebelt1 2 years ago
It is, the grains ( hopefully) float on top of a layer of water right on top of the false bottom, gravity pushes the liquid thru the bottom and then forces it up thru the pick-up tube and out the valve. This design is a necessity of the bev cooler, a commercial mastun drains straight down...
OPE08 2 years ago
Great! I unfortunately had a different brand of cooler, so I had to find some different parts to fit. But having this video, with its specific list of parts, made it so much easier than if I had to start from scratch. Thanks!
greatexp59 2 years ago
Thanks for the good info - honestly thought I don't think you need to sanitize it because it is on the hot side - anything that is transferred into the wort will be killed during the boil
dynablow10 2 years ago
You're right, of course, but like I said sometimes I default into "clean mode" when I am on auto-pilot...
OPE08 2 years ago
Does anyone know what size wrench you need to loosen the crap plastic nut on the inside of a Rubbermaid cooler? I can't find this info anywhere and all my wrenches are a tad too small.
Galileo430 2 years ago
I used "Vise-Grips".
I grabbed the inner nut with some large vise-grips, and the outer spigot with a smaller pair, and twisted...
I don't think a wrench would work since its a hand nut??
OPE08 2 years ago
Thanks, I just got the nut off!
Off I go.
Galileo430 2 years ago
May I ask why didn't you buy plastic valve and componet parts for this job since everything else is plastic? You could of saved a few bucks.
dvdfrnzwbr 3 years ago
Good question!
I KNOW that the plastic in the coolers inner vessel is food grade and ok for hot liquids.
I'd have to find food grade and hi-temp safe plastic components for the valve.
I may have been able to, I doubt it would have been a savings, not a worthwhile savings in any case.
The brass and stainless parts are tough, long-lasting, and easy to clean; they're worth the additional cost.
The $20 usd cooler is the savings item, if you look into the cost of insulated SS mashtuns...
OPE08 3 years ago
Great video! Very easy to follow and informative. I am sure you may already know this, but there is no need to sanitize your equipment at this point as your wort will be boiled and sterilized after the mash. Just wanted to add for any new brewers out there. Thanks again.
yambor44 3 years ago
Yeah, I always default to "cleanliness mode", its not neccesary here, but it doesn't hurt either...
Cheers!!
OPE08 3 years ago
Great video. Had a difficult time finding stainless steel washers. Did you have to pre treat the brass fittings? I read about lead contaminant in brass that you can clean with vinegar and hydrogen peroxide.
davemchiu 3 years ago
My washers are zinc, but since they are just spacers that never come in contact with the beer I'm not too worried.
If there is lead in the brass I would assume, and I'm no expert, but I would assume that it would be in alloy not just a surface contaminant. I scrubbed and washed the parts as best I could with a hot water/starsan solution, but I will look into what you mention...
cheers!
OPE08 3 years ago
2 questions- how big of a batch will this do (or how many pounds of grain?) and what exactly is the tape for?
linusstick 3 years ago
I only do 5gal batches due to my failure to find a keg as of yet ( and refusal to pay for a professionally made one ) My Brother-in-law, who is the "real" Zymurgist says that he has done 10 gal batches in his, it comes down to the ratio of water to grain...
The pink tape is teflon tape to help seal the threads, ( pink for water, yellow for nat gas, et...) and prohibit leaks. It is not really neccesary since the pressure is so low, but it is "good plumbing practice" so I used it...
Cheers!
OPE08 3 years ago
What was the total cost on all the parts needed for the value? Cost on the whole mashtun?
Jlc030 3 years ago
I kept the receipt!
I paid a little over 17$ for all the misc parts at Lowes. I paid 5$ for the cooler, but it actually retails for $19.99, also at lowes.
The "Phils Phalse Bottom" was a gift, but it couldn't have cost more than 20$ and should have been less since its plastic...
So this project in its entirety would be 50-60$ retail...
OH! You can get a 10gal cooler for about 40, but I have heard that they are less efficient as far as extraction.
Thanks Jlc030... Cheers!!
OPE08 3 years ago
You really don't have to sanitize your mash tun parts. Only equipment that touches the beer post-boil need to be sanitized.
Homebrew58 3 years ago
Thats true! Since what goes thru this heads to the boil-pot. I guess I just defaulted to "cleaning mode" and said sanitize...
As you can see I figured out the valve parts, thanks
OPE08 3 years ago
Sorry I didn't get back with you on this parts list. That Amadeus play took up all my time.
Homebrew58 3 years ago
No apologies needed! I stumbled across the info the day after we last talked about it.
OPE08 3 years ago
brilliant tutorial with specific part numbers and where to get the parts.. thank you so much!
YouBetchYaBoots 3 years ago
Thanks, I would have had them on-screen as well, but I did this one quick.
OPE08 3 years ago
There, I added annotations listing the part numbers and descriptions... AND a link to the original site I got this info from...
OPE08 3 years ago