Added: 3 years ago
From: OPE08
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  • Where did you get that false bottom from.

  • great job on the video, is there a source for the false bottom or info to fabricate one?

    Thanks.

  • @CaptRon1953 - It is a "Phil's Phalse Bottom" from Listermann , they make a stainless one as well, the plastic one shown was a gift, but it is pretty inexpensive

  • This is THE best guide to make a cheap, simple mash tun that I've found. Thank you so very much. Favorited for later use :-)

  • @TheAlmightyFSM - You're welcome! and praise his noodly appendages...

  • @OPE08 Indeed! Hahaha...

  • Great help, thanks.

    

  • @strawalker - YW! looks like I'll be using the mashtun this weekend! I'll see what I can do about posting video

  • Sure would have been better of you had included the step of showing the A-298 and A-786 plus SS washer dissassembled. You said that is is difficult so that means it sould have been included. This would have been a great video with that assemply added in. It is still a good video but missing part of the assembly proceedure.

  • @Engineer245 - Who am I to pretend to "greatness"??

    As I said in the video those three parts were pre-assembled simply because I found them hard to put together in the first place, and I didn't want to disassemble them for the video. The omission was minor, so I hope the video was still helpful in any case...

    cheers!

  • Hay man, make us a video on how to do the hard to assemble parts. Thanks, Cheers!

  • why would you sterilize that if you're going to boil the wort?? Thanks for the video, I think I'll be doing this this weekend!

  • You don't have to sterilize it, of course, but when I am in cleaning mode I sometimes go a bit overboard, it doesn't hurt anything and it costs me little...

    STARSAN FTW!!

  • Barbadaaaapttttoooooorrrrrr. dickbutt.

  • LOL!!

  • how is the false bottom made? good video thanks

  • Its a "Phil's Phalse Bottom" from Listermann Products.

    Its nothing more than a convex plastic dome, perforated, with a small pickup tube attachment on the top...

    Look up Listermann's website...

  • First time I've seen anyone give part numbers and explain things so well. Thanks OPE08! Will be watching for more of your Vid's.

  • These pieces are obviously the right ones but are too small for a 10 gallon Gott Cooler. Thanks though. Just a few return items and I'm on my way.

  • Well I apologize for that, I used a 5 gallon rubbermaid unit, but I was told the valve was the same size in both brands...

    Let me know how yours comes out!

  • Comment removed

  • does anyone know if any changes would need to be made if using a 5 gallon cooler instead of a 10?

  • In this video I am using a 5 gallon cooler, I've heard good and bad about using the ten gal coolers. In the end, I decided that when I go to ten gal batches I will convert a keg this same way, more or less, but keep this cooler for the occasional small batch.

  • one last question, is the false bottom a 9" or 10"?

  • Its a 10"...

    does Listermann make 9"? or were you going to buy a stainless one?

  • Comment removed

  • Listermann does have a 9", would you recommend that over the 10"?

  • Measure the floor of your cooler and get whichever size covers best without being too large. Mine is more about 9.75" so I am assuming it is a 10, and it darn near touches the sides of the cooler.

    If you can get your hand on a SS false bottom, then I would say get that, it will last longer!

  • sounds good, Midwest supplies sells SS false bottoms same price as Listermann's.

  • just read the fine print, they are out of stock with the 9"!!!

  • just found this guy's mod instructions today- built it too. no drip at full capacity for hours. i used a tee inside and 2 barbs- then ran a circular hose sleeve. also used a 5/8" neoprene washer on each side of the cooler. BTW- the O ring is #12.

  • Awesome, thanks. I gave the Mfc part#'s in hopes that it would be just as easy to find.

  • This was an outstanding video. The only issue I had was getting all of the threaded parts to completely tighten. Instead of using one stainless fender washer on the inside & 3 on the outside, I had to use 4 on both sides. Also, stainless steel fender washers are almost impossible to find. I had to special order them and they cost $1.60 a piece. After adding the additional washers, I was able to brew my first all grain batch with no significant issues. I can't wait to taste my Beligian IPA.

  • Sorry to hear that. For others reading- you only need SS on the inside. The washer/spacers on the outside need not be SS.

  • is there another tube under the flase bottom then?

  • the false bottom looked like it was below the spout....so whats the point

  • It is, the grains ( hopefully) float on top of a layer of water right on top of the false bottom, gravity pushes the liquid thru the bottom and then forces it up thru the pick-up tube and out the valve. This design is a necessity of the bev cooler, a commercial mastun drains straight down...

  • Great! I unfortunately had a different brand of cooler, so I had to find some different parts to fit. But having this video, with its specific list of parts, made it so much easier than if I had to start from scratch. Thanks!

  • Thanks for the good info - honestly thought I don't think you need to sanitize it because it is on the hot side - anything that is transferred into the wort will be killed during the boil

  • You're right, of course, but like I said sometimes I default into "clean mode" when I am on auto-pilot...

  • Does anyone know what size wrench you need to loosen the crap plastic nut on the inside of a Rubbermaid cooler? I can't find this info anywhere and all my wrenches are a tad too small.

  • I used "Vise-Grips".

    I grabbed the inner nut with some large vise-grips, and the outer spigot with a smaller pair, and twisted...

    I don't think a wrench would work since its a hand nut??

  • Thanks, I just got the nut off!

    Off I go.

  • May I ask why didn't you buy plastic valve and componet parts for this job since everything else is plastic? You could of saved a few bucks.

  • Good question!

    I KNOW that the plastic in the coolers inner vessel is food grade and ok for hot liquids.

    I'd have to find food grade and hi-temp safe plastic components for the valve.

    I may have been able to, I doubt it would have been a savings, not a worthwhile savings in any case.

    The brass and stainless parts are tough, long-lasting, and easy to clean; they're worth the additional cost.

    The $20 usd cooler is the savings item, if you look into the cost of insulated SS mashtuns...

  • Great video! Very easy to follow and informative. I am sure you may already know this, but there is no need to sanitize your equipment at this point as your wort will be boiled and sterilized after the mash. Just wanted to add for any new brewers out there. Thanks again.

  • Yeah, I always default to "cleanliness mode", its not neccesary here, but it doesn't hurt either...

    Cheers!!

  • Great video. Had a difficult time finding stainless steel washers. Did you have to pre treat the brass fittings? I read about lead contaminant in brass that you can clean with vinegar and hydrogen peroxide.

  • My washers are zinc, but since they are just spacers that never come in contact with the beer I'm not too worried.

    If there is lead in the brass I would assume, and I'm no expert, but I would assume that it would be in alloy not just a surface contaminant. I scrubbed and washed the parts as best I could with a hot water/starsan solution, but I will look into what you mention...

    cheers!

  • 2 questions- how big of a batch will this do (or how many pounds of grain?) and what exactly is the tape for?

  • I only do 5gal batches due to my failure to find a keg as of yet ( and refusal to pay for a professionally made one ) My Brother-in-law, who is the "real" Zymurgist says that he has done 10 gal batches in his, it comes down to the ratio of water to grain...

    The pink tape is teflon tape to help seal the threads, ( pink for water, yellow for nat gas, et...) and prohibit leaks. It is not really neccesary since the pressure is so low, but it is "good plumbing practice" so I used it...

    Cheers!

  • What was the total cost on all the parts needed for the value? Cost on the whole mashtun?

  • I kept the receipt!

    I paid a little over 17$ for all the misc parts at Lowes. I paid 5$ for the cooler, but it actually retails for $19.99, also at lowes.

    The "Phils Phalse Bottom" was a gift, but it couldn't have cost more than 20$ and should have been less since its plastic...

    So this project in its entirety would be 50-60$ retail...

    OH! You can get a 10gal cooler for about 40, but I have heard that they are less efficient as far as extraction.

    Thanks Jlc030... Cheers!!

  • You really don't have to sanitize your mash tun parts. Only equipment that touches the beer post-boil need to be sanitized.

  • Thats true! Since what goes thru this heads to the boil-pot. I guess I just defaulted to "cleaning mode" and said sanitize...

    As you can see I figured out the valve parts, thanks

  • Sorry I didn't get back with you on this parts list. That Amadeus play took up all my time.

  • No apologies needed! I stumbled across the info the day after we last talked about it.

  • brilliant tutorial with specific part numbers and where to get the parts.. thank you so much!

  • Thanks, I would have had them on-screen as well, but I did this one quick.

  • There, I added annotations listing the part numbers and descriptions... AND a link to the original site I got this info from...

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