@mazzmari When motorized volume dampers restrict supply air flow, the excess air has to be diverted back to the indoor fan to aid blower motor cooling. The furnace/air handler doesn't care where the return air comes from. It just needs to move it through the system.
I'm not familiar with the zone system in the vid, but I can't count how many dampers I've found weighted open, or backwards, etc. Also the DATS is almost never installed according to the directions. Honeywell says 3 ft from plenum(A/C coil) and not in direct sight, but before any zone dampers...I've seen them inches above a/c coil, and no way to relocate them so they comply with instructions. Just what does that blinking "purge" light mean anyway?? hehe
@FilterChanger The 'purge' light blinks when the system is powered up. It's usually a 2 minute cycle as the zone board checks components during boot-up. I frequently see the DAT sensor circuit bypassed with a jumper wire. Silly installers... Trix are for kids.
@PutSome5tankOnIt The old TotalZone boards by Honeywell had a solid purge during the purge cycle, blinking purge meant the DATS was unhooked, or open. I should have a short video up showing an install w/o dats. It's blurry, sorry.
@FilterChanger The old Honeywell kits (board, DATS, transformer) we installed were the EMM-3's.Two-minute blower on (purge) when first powered up. The LEDs would light/blink red, green or orange. Blinking orange was "no DATS installed"
Hey 5tank , I personally have never done these , I dig arrow direction ... Are the zones difficult to hook up ? If I can get to leads , can I make an existing system ZONED with that zoning kit you showed (what model for google search)??? I believe this may be the way of the future here !!! I would like to have a leg up ...
@fritzhvac Thanks Fritz. These kinds of zone systems aren't really complicated. Easier if the trunk lines are already dedicated to living and bedroom areas. I prefer the Honeywells over the MasterZones. I think the Honeywell model # is HZ311K. The hardest part probably is pulling thermostat wires for additional zones on retrofit jobs..
Thanks man , I was thinking of maybe drilling out small hole in the back corner of the closet to get control wire up, to Zone second floor (i'm pretty good a finding a way up, look out he's got the DAMN sawzall out again ,RUN) LOL... Is there any requirments on existing furnace ? Does every run require damper ?
Probably sounds stupid , but never done before ...
@fritzhvac Each run should have a motorized zone damper to control air circulation. That's the best way to control air flow and system performance. The Honeywell systems allow for easier 'daisey-chaining' of dampers that serve zones with multiple trunk lines. It sounds more complicated than it really is. Trust me. My way is the best way.
@dizziedallas Most tract installers don't understand how these dampers work. Improper installatiion is really not their fault because they're not taught the finer points. I'm just hoping a few of them see this video and apply what they learn out there in the field.
nice
eazy2day 1 year ago
Cool video.
What are those bypass dampers used for? I have never seen them up here, probably not necessary for my climate.
mazzmari 1 year ago
@mazzmari When motorized volume dampers restrict supply air flow, the excess air has to be diverted back to the indoor fan to aid blower motor cooling. The furnace/air handler doesn't care where the return air comes from. It just needs to move it through the system.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
I'm not familiar with the zone system in the vid, but I can't count how many dampers I've found weighted open, or backwards, etc. Also the DATS is almost never installed according to the directions. Honeywell says 3 ft from plenum(A/C coil) and not in direct sight, but before any zone dampers...I've seen them inches above a/c coil, and no way to relocate them so they comply with instructions. Just what does that blinking "purge" light mean anyway?? hehe
FilterChanger 1 year ago
@FilterChanger The 'purge' light blinks when the system is powered up. It's usually a 2 minute cycle as the zone board checks components during boot-up. I frequently see the DAT sensor circuit bypassed with a jumper wire. Silly installers... Trix are for kids.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
@PutSome5tankOnIt The old TotalZone boards by Honeywell had a solid purge during the purge cycle, blinking purge meant the DATS was unhooked, or open. I should have a short video up showing an install w/o dats. It's blurry, sorry.
FilterChanger 1 year ago
@FilterChanger The old Honeywell kits (board, DATS, transformer) we installed were the EMM-3's.Two-minute blower on (purge) when first powered up. The LEDs would light/blink red, green or orange. Blinking orange was "no DATS installed"
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
Much better volume brother, keep up the good work!
Houze968 1 year ago
@Houze968 Yeah. That system will pass the next duct test.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
you did to need that , looks like you are in an attic and last I checked it is summer lol
towrecker 1 year ago
directions
directions
directions
LOL some people just dont read them. i used to be that way. But as with age so comes a better understanding .
Of why they include directions. humm they do help.LOL
Great vid.
Darvin1964 1 year ago
@Darvin1964 I don't read directions as much as I used to. I've already seen most situations I come across nowadays.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
Hey 5tank , I personally have never done these , I dig arrow direction ... Are the zones difficult to hook up ? If I can get to leads , can I make an existing system ZONED with that zoning kit you showed (what model for google search)??? I believe this may be the way of the future here !!! I would like to have a leg up ...
Yet another GREAT VIDEO !!!
fritzhvac 1 year ago
@fritzhvac Thanks Fritz. These kinds of zone systems aren't really complicated. Easier if the trunk lines are already dedicated to living and bedroom areas. I prefer the Honeywells over the MasterZones. I think the Honeywell model # is HZ311K. The hardest part probably is pulling thermostat wires for additional zones on retrofit jobs..
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
@PutSome5tankOnIt
Thanks man , I was thinking of maybe drilling out small hole in the back corner of the closet to get control wire up, to Zone second floor (i'm pretty good a finding a way up, look out he's got the DAMN sawzall out again ,RUN) LOL... Is there any requirments on existing furnace ? Does every run require damper ?
Probably sounds stupid , but never done before ...
I'm hoping honeywell has PDF , I can look at ...
fritzhvac 1 year ago
@fritzhvac Each run should have a motorized zone damper to control air circulation. That's the best way to control air flow and system performance. The Honeywell systems allow for easier 'daisey-chaining' of dampers that serve zones with multiple trunk lines. It sounds more complicated than it really is. Trust me. My way is the best way.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
a air bypass damper is 1 of the most simplest things and some how it still gets fucked. good vid
V8Jagnut 1 year ago
@V8Jagnut This type of bypass damper is just about the simplest design out there. Gravity and barometric pressure. It's inexpensive and works well.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago
I can't beleave how many bypass damper are installed backwards makes you wonder?
dizziedallas 1 year ago
@dizziedallas Most tract installers don't understand how these dampers work. Improper installatiion is really not their fault because they're not taught the finer points. I'm just hoping a few of them see this video and apply what they learn out there in the field.
PutSome5tankOnIt 1 year ago