@Ascenscion123 Some native English speaker corrected me that Scandinizing is a better word...lol. The Scandinizing is to grind off the metal evenly from the primary bevels and unite them to make the edge itself. Then the inclusive 40 degree secondary V edge disappears and the new inclusive 30 degree zero grind Scandi edge appears. A sharp edge must have under 30 degree angle in my opinion and its factory made 40 degree secondary V edge is too large to be sharp enough for everything. Thanks.
@virtuovice So basically scanding is making a better edge and belyly to the knife to a certain degree to make better knife and sharpness.Is this a Japanese technique srry not trying to be racist lol I see those Jap chefs do thier blade like that.Also is scanding good if your in the military for close quarters combat
@Ascenscion123 Basically Japanese traditional knife grinds are zero grind Scandi or convex without a secondary bevel. They are very sharp and tough. So when I need to fight an enemy with a knife, I will carry a convex edge knife like cKc All Purpose Fighting Knife ( APFK) line. You can see them on his website "sell your knife" or on his videos. They are very serious. Thanks.
@ROBERT452 Thank you! KaBar website itself says its secondary bevel angle is 20 degrees a side. It is in total 40 degrees. I observed its primary bevel angle was 30 degrees and decided to do it. The 30 degree edge is very sharp and tough after putting micro convex bevel on it. Its polished surface is pretty rust resistant. I still believe it is a very good modification.
@justyoustupid I concentrated my attention to making a sharp point and my grinding was not round, then the belly curve was sacrificed and the tanto like feature was made. But this piercing tip was excellent and this slightly convexed edge was sharp and tough in cutting wood. I made it sure in my latest video, and when you have time, please take a look. This statement can sound bragging myself but this modification is highly recommended in a real world. Thank you!
You have to take great care not to get the metal too hot when using a belt sander. Also, when sanding by hand, you can check your work often, and change your technique if necessary. With a belt sander, by the time you check your work, a mistake might be too serious. The best method is probably to do the work 20 to 30 minutes per session, and let it take a month. That knife turned out BEAUTIFULLY! It's worth the time and effort!
@Eso1 I believe the KaBar fighting knife has 30 degree primary bevels and 40 degree secondary V edge. If it was a perfect Scandi edge, the edge angle would be 30 degree. But this Scandi edge made by hand has a slightly convex bevel due to my technical error, and Its edge angle seems to be around 32 degrees. If you intentionally make the full height convex edge with a soft backing, the edge angle can be deeper and duller. So I recommend you to use a hard backing when you grind the bevel. Thanks.
@krazy4knives Its original secondary V edge is 40 degrees. To give it enough sharpness the Scanding seems essential because its primary bevels are 30 degrees. Its newly made 30 degree Scandi convex edge didn't take any trouble after touching deer bones harshly. Thanks.
@dustintml a belt sander would probably make this into a convex, logically it seems like it would be much more dificult to turn into a scandi, you would have to use alot more technique and delicacy.
@Cuzgroup You had better go away from my channel, or you will see it again. You might be able to be used to seeing it if you stay on my channel though.
@TalonTSI95 I used #1500 sandpaper to polish it up. But this finish is far less quality than the real mirror finish. They seem to use very fine abrasive powder on the polishing head to the electric device for the real mirror finish. Thank you!
did you ever have rust problems with the leather sheath? i know these carbon blades are supposed to be oiled to prevent rusting. i am debating weather or not to buy a kydex sheath.
@WolfWoodWorks Yes, I have ever experienced the heavy rust in the wet leather sheath. Then the knife was after use and not oiled. And the leather sheath was put into the bag with wet clothing. It was the worst case. Unless the leather is very wet, it absorbs water drops from the knife and protect it from the rust. Kydex will never absorb water. The air circulation between the knife and the Kydex sheath seems very little. So the knife will stay wet long in the Kydex sheath in my experience.
@sheldontimm The sandpapers made black and oily substance in wet. Which stained the handle black and oily. It was a fairly good side effect. I love what you did on your KaBar knife too. I understant it is essential in order to make it useful for other than fighting purposes. Thank you!
@sheldontimm On my leather sheaths and leather washer handles, I typically use Burt's Bees, either the hand balm or the lip balm. I just apply it to the leather and then rub it in. It'll feel sort of greasy after you rub it in, but if you let it sit for a few hours the leather will soak up the balm. That will moisturize the leather and prevent it from drying out and cracking, and it will also seal and waterproof the leather to some extent. The more you do it, the longer your leather will last.
@JohannGasmask thanks that sounds like a good idea and that it will work out great. I still havent been able to get any leather treatment products that dont break the bank, so this would solve my problem. thanks again
this video is fantastic. I am very impressed by your skill and patience. You are among the few with such virtue. This video was what convinced me to buy this knife.
@Urudrim It was before the hunting season, so I had lots of free time. But now I get used to regular waterstone sharpening. So I will never do this kind of grinding again. Thank you!
@asg00001 I have no idea about the full size kabar usmc. But I don't think 20 degrees is correct. I guess it can be 30 degrees because I have never met a 20 degree V edge from the factory. Thanks.
@asg00001 Maybe I understand what the company say. Its secondary edge will have 20 degree angle from the center line. So its real edge angle will be 40 degrees. My short kabar had 40 degree edge and 25 degree bevels from the factory. Thanks.
I did the same think to a full size Kabar some time ago, it is a great video, and now I know I was not the only one crazy enough to undertake the project!
@94offroad Yes, it is relatively soft. It's a 4cm square pine wood. I tested another kind of wood. Then it forced me much power and took me much time. And lastly it gave me a wrist trouble. So I got to like this wood for a knife cut test. Thanks!
@AJSensei This knife has a 25 degree zero grind Scandi edge and it is the sharpest knife of all my knives. Furthermore its tip is the sharpest of all my knives. It can penetrate the opponent's heart over his clothing very easily. It can slash his neck very easily, too. If I am a soldier I will carry this knife with me. I will feel very safe with this knife. This knife is no more a skinning knife. Ah... I must make another one from the full size USMC. Thanks.
@virtuovice No I was just saying that it wasn't designed to skin a deer with. It was designed for marines on the Pacific in WW2. I was a Jar-head (Marine)so I guess its a little sentimental to me. I just think there are many good bush craft knifes that are made that way and much cheaper. Anyway I do love your channel.
@damarei ,yeah,a sharper blade is a more dangerous blade.that's why i always refer to those chef /butcher knives a being very deadly weapons .which they are.although not intended by the maker.
@bluejay693 No, I didn't. The black oily substance came out of wet sand papers, and it stained the handle very strongly so that I was not able to wash it out. Thanks.
How are you Wako, im going to reprofile my ontario afsk and i was thinking instead of 6 hours with the sand paper. Do you think i can use a file to take most of the metal of then finish it of with bench stones?
@SWAT487 Hi, I have never used a file to reprofile a blade. But doing it slow is the key to get a good result. Especially the belly portion and the tip are difficult. I remember that the AFSK has flat and narrow bevels. Which more match Scandi edge than convex edge. The deep angle of its bevels interferes sharpening at a proper angle. I think that is the reason why it cannot go sharp. When the bevels get to be the edge itself, the problem will disappear completely. Take care.
Wako, this is absolutely an amazing video in function and illustration. I think you have many skills that are beyond the obvious.
Have you tried the various edges you are experimenting with on meat and bone? You want these primarily for your deer hunting hobby, correct? I think when deer season starts, you should divide up a deer and try to dress it in sections with the various edges to see which performs as best as you need it to. Up until now, you have established scandi best for wood.
@traderjoes Thank you very much for your comment. The deer season is coming soon, so I am much interested in how they work on meat and bone as you say. Anyways I hate chips of the edge very much. I think the chips take place when the maneuvering, the steel, the grinding or some is wrong. Even the micro chips will take me much time and labor to restore them. In the worst case the chips can ruin the blade completely. I would like to focus on micro chips in actual deer dressing.
@virtuovice Ah, that makes more sense to me. I strop using green compound and while it does smooth and put a shine on the edge, it does not come close to mirror polish. I thought I was doing something wrong.
@virtuovice I think we both have become spoiled with he sharpness of the bark river knives, ive onwed my gunny for a week and im already inspecting all my knives edges an wanting to get them sharper. Its not that the usmc isnt sharp, its just not razor sharp. Its practical for the things it was meant to do like fighting, stabbing, digging and whatever else the military does. Paper tests are not one of them. And also you get what you pay for. Still a great knife though. Ive seen vids on here of
@sae1095hc You say a very interesting word but it is very correct. I am definitely an otaku on knives. In Japan otaku is widely used as for a mania. They have a subtle different nuance, but nowadays they are used almost in the same occasion, and otaku is not a negative word. Thank you.
@sae1095hc Hi, You have a very deep knowledge on Japanese language and culture. As you say "otaku" was formerly a kind of insulting word. The real meaning of "otaku" is just "you". Maniac guys call each other "otaku" when they meet even the first time at their favorite shop. "otaku" is a friendly call name as they belong to the same group. Yes, they belong to the same group of the hobby before they meet each other. So they are friendly from the first, and it looks strange to ordinary people.
Wow! When I asked you to compare scandi grind to convex in woodcutting I figured you would acquire a new blade instead of reprofiling an existing knife! Seems to me like time well spent in the end. A fantastic result I must say. A Question: when you strop with green compound how long before you develop the mirror finish?
@Tanrichguy Honestly I used a 1500 grit sandpaper wrapped around the stropping paddle to make a mirror finish after all the stone sharpening was over. I don't think it is easy to make a whole blade like a mirror only with green compound.
@sebenzalover I got a 220 grit stone yesterday, and I can get a rougher one for agricultural edges. Which can release me from sandpapers. Then I will think of your recommended DMT. Thank you.
I just spent a couple of hours putting a scandi edge and a convex of sorts on a new machete as done by a a Youtuber Colhane. I was going to buy a camp knife and another neck knife but decided that a couple of reasonable quality cheaper blades with some work might perform as well. My edges arent as pretty as yours but I may well put some more time to them after seeing your result. Great video, interesting as always.
@malcolmry I checked the Colhane's machete and was much impressed with its well thought edge arrangement and thought of the effort he had paid on it. Anyhow I am thinking that I will be able to put the sharpest edge with ease on hollow ground knives because there is no metal to be ground off in the hollow portion. I will try it at as low angle as possible. Thank you.
great video as always. i did reprofile a blade once so i know how much work it involves, but mine never looked as good as that kabar did. nice work indeed.
Great video. Just last night I was doing a paper cut test with all my knives and my usmc full size was the dullest, even less then practical. It came like this from the factory and i have not beat on it yet. I was looking at the edge and was like this secondary edge is way to steep to be sharp they should of made it a continous edge from the middle of the blade. You pretty much did this and now its razor sharp. I wish I could get mine like this.
@drkknight614 Thank you very much for your comment. I had been thinking that its bevel portion was too narrow and steep to make a 30 degree secondary edge. But thinking of its looks, the flat portion with a groove is nice, and its design seems to have a decent history. So for the sales KaBar continues these knives knowing their dull edges I guess.
@7Jaybee6 Thank you very much. 15 minutes is very useful to me because it allows me to speak English very slowly. While I know it is too long for viewers because I am a viewer, too.
a strictly scandinavian grind has a small micro bevel,
that often was a little convex. It was there so that it could be resharpened very quickly, with very little steel being removed. nowadays, we have more modern sharpening mediums that cut down the time anyway, sp we can afford to sharpen the whole single bevel. But the micro bevel is still very prevalent here.
Nice to see how effective the scandi is. By the way, I didn't catch on, but did you buy another Ka-Bar to do this to? Looks like one of the Kraton G handled ones, cant tell because I'm still attempting to wake up. Good vid, thank you for posting
@XxLeggZxX Thank you for your comment, and for your watching my video very carefully. The sandpapers in wet made much amount of black colored oil. It stained the handle and my hands black very deeply. I tried to wash it off but failed. My hands are still dirty with the oil after 10 hours.
@virtuovice Wow, that's crazy that the oil stained the handle THAT dark. We have something here in the states called "Lava soap" try getting some it works wonders, but make sure to only use it on your hands. That stuff will get anything (and mean practically ANYTHING) off of your hands. Hopefully you can find some and hopefully it will help.
WHy don't you get a grinder/belt sander (not really sure what they're called) like knivesandstuff? Or do you just like doing it by hand? You would save yourself hours or work!
@tollan23 Thanks. If possible I don't want to reprofile my knives. I have done it because I bought wrong knives. From now depending on my own experience I will never purchase a knife which forces me to reprofile it. It can be true that I enjoy doing it by hand though.
Superb conversion Wako.. not only working better.. but it looks really cool too! You now have a very unique KaBar.. I think soon you may buy yourself a grinder to convert 8 hours to 30minutes :)
@knivesandstuff Thank you. Today I bought a 220 grit water stone to reprofile my Sharpmaker's dull edges. I now have just one knife left to be reprofiled from partial convex to full convex. So maybe I don't need an electric machine. Hopefully that knife will go over my Bravo1. It is a Japanese hand forged knife and its side steels are damascus.
@virtuovice Well. when time and weather permits it will be good to see how these work in the field.. you may even try the Kabar on some fish or duck :)
that is some amazing work my friend. Awesome to see some new edges and blade types being put on the ka-bar- you can't beat the original!
mikethenascarfan 1 week ago
Wow! Nice work
chouck0101 1 week ago
What grit waterstone are you using?
chrisb5401 1 month ago
@chrisb5401 The combo was 1000/4000 maybe. The finest one was #8000. If we strop after stone sharpening, the #8000 is useless. Thanks.
virtuovice 1 month ago
I've done mine at a 20 to 25 degree edge and you can shave with it. Not hard to do, the knife takes an edge easily.
campcomp00 2 months ago
I am shocked that a Japanese man would own a KA-BAR
jambiyaSlaughter 2 months ago
I was thinking of getting a full sized ka bar usmc .. And having that done . Awesome video ..thanks for the info
Beachcrib 2 months ago
FUCK YOU!
Eclkclkboom 3 months ago
Asian?
Ascenscion123 3 months ago
@Ascenscion123 Japanese.
virtuovice 3 months ago
@virtuovice Wait what were you doing to ur knife in the video ,Sharpening? also what is Scanding
Ascenscion123 3 months ago
@Ascenscion123 Some native English speaker corrected me that Scandinizing is a better word...lol. The Scandinizing is to grind off the metal evenly from the primary bevels and unite them to make the edge itself. Then the inclusive 40 degree secondary V edge disappears and the new inclusive 30 degree zero grind Scandi edge appears. A sharp edge must have under 30 degree angle in my opinion and its factory made 40 degree secondary V edge is too large to be sharp enough for everything. Thanks.
virtuovice 3 months ago
@virtuovice So basically scanding is making a better edge and belyly to the knife to a certain degree to make better knife and sharpness.Is this a Japanese technique srry not trying to be racist lol I see those Jap chefs do thier blade like that.Also is scanding good if your in the military for close quarters combat
Ascenscion123 3 months ago
@Ascenscion123 Basically Japanese traditional knife grinds are zero grind Scandi or convex without a secondary bevel. They are very sharp and tough. So when I need to fight an enemy with a knife, I will carry a convex edge knife like cKc All Purpose Fighting Knife ( APFK) line. You can see them on his website "sell your knife" or on his videos. They are very serious. Thanks.
virtuovice 3 months ago
how big is your hand? i have larger-than-average hands and i want the kabar short but i'm worried about it's handle size.
virtuoviceさんの手は大きいほうですか？私は KA-Bar Shortモデルに興味おもってます。しかしハンドルのサイズが気になってまだ買ってません....
日本を離れて１０年なるんで日本語がさびました。...
ビデオこれからもよろしくお願いします～。
driftworld86 3 months ago
@driftworld86 私の手のサイズは日本人としてはやや大きめです。Short-Kabar のハンドルは私の手にはやや細くて短いですが、形が一般的なので、特に気にならずに快適に使っています。これからもよろしくお願いします。
virtuovice 3 months ago
cool knife
Pinkerbelliful 4 months ago
Hey what kind of sand paper is that and where can i get it online?
sgtschmitty8013 4 months ago
@sgtschmitty8013 I used 80 grit water proof sand papers selling at a home center. Thanks.
virtuovice 4 months ago
@958933 You dont have to, it's enough just to wipe it down good after use..
EnergyDog23 4 months ago
Scanding? I've never heard of the word. Scandinizing or Scandinating may be better coinage, I think.
What do you think of it?
CordyTom 4 months ago
@CordyTom I am not a native speaker but "Scandinizing" sounds the most natural to me. Thanks.
virtuovice 4 months ago
Do you wear a respirator when you sand on a knife like that? It seems the carbon metal dust would be toxic.
StroggosMakron 5 months ago
Good work. I'm very impressed with your KABAR. I wish I could do something like that on my KABAR.
ROBERT452 5 months ago
@ROBERT452 Thank you! KaBar website itself says its secondary bevel angle is 20 degrees a side. It is in total 40 degrees. I observed its primary bevel angle was 30 degrees and decided to do it. The 30 degree edge is very sharp and tough after putting micro convex bevel on it. Its polished surface is pretty rust resistant. I still believe it is a very good modification.
virtuovice 5 months ago
thank you for your videos its easy to understand from watching it done.
izabelleTV 5 months ago
Great job my brother. Thanks for sharing.
ZazzOffGuitars 6 months ago
Now thats awesome!
zhangmaster12 7 months ago
you turned it into a tanto :O
justyoustupid 8 months ago
@justyoustupid I concentrated my attention to making a sharp point and my grinding was not round, then the belly curve was sacrificed and the tanto like feature was made. But this piercing tip was excellent and this slightly convexed edge was sharp and tough in cutting wood. I made it sure in my latest video, and when you have time, please take a look. This statement can sound bragging myself but this modification is highly recommended in a real world. Thank you!
virtuovice 8 months ago
@virtuovice look here at 13:15. its a gorgeous edge and i can see convexing and it looks great, i wasnt saying anything bad. you did awesome
justyoustupid 8 months ago
You have to take great care not to get the metal too hot when using a belt sander. Also, when sanding by hand, you can check your work often, and change your technique if necessary. With a belt sander, by the time you check your work, a mistake might be too serious. The best method is probably to do the work 20 to 30 minutes per session, and let it take a month. That knife turned out BEAUTIFULLY! It's worth the time and effort!
aTellerOfTruths 8 months ago
Great video! I'm planning buy one and get a custom sheath from Redscorpionsix Can you tell me the blade height?
omfgcantfindusername 9 months ago
@omfgcantfindusername It's 25mm. Thank you!
virtuovice 9 months ago
Virtuvoice, do you think this style knife would be more efficient with a convex edge, or the scandi?
Eso1 9 months ago
@Eso1 I believe the KaBar fighting knife has 30 degree primary bevels and 40 degree secondary V edge. If it was a perfect Scandi edge, the edge angle would be 30 degree. But this Scandi edge made by hand has a slightly convex bevel due to my technical error, and Its edge angle seems to be around 32 degrees. If you intentionally make the full height convex edge with a soft backing, the edge angle can be deeper and duller. So I recommend you to use a hard backing when you grind the bevel. Thanks.
virtuovice 9 months ago
@virtuovice Thank you for the insight!
Eso1 9 months ago
@virtuovice kabar makes exvellent knives. What is your opinion on the usmc short?
krazy4knives 9 months ago
@krazy4knives Its original secondary V edge is 40 degrees. To give it enough sharpness the Scanding seems essential because its primary bevels are 30 degrees. Its newly made 30 degree Scandi convex edge didn't take any trouble after touching deer bones harshly. Thanks.
virtuovice 9 months ago
He he... at the end there, the mirror finish on the blade looked wicked. "Scary sharp" indeed.
TheDamnSpot 9 months ago
Could this not be done using a belt sander? (a belt sander with a solid backing so you don't end up with a convex edge)
dustintml 9 months ago
@dustintml I don't have a belt sander. But I guess it will do it better than I did. Thanks.
virtuovice 9 months ago
@dustintml a belt sander would probably make this into a convex, logically it seems like it would be much more dificult to turn into a scandi, you would have to use alot more technique and delicacy.
Eso1 9 months ago
Is that regular sandpaper or is it some kind of automotive sandpaper?
dustintml 9 months ago
@dustintml It was selling at a DIY store and they said it was a waterproof abrasive paper. That is all I know about it. Thanks.
virtuovice 9 months ago
your nail is gross
Cuzgroup 10 months ago
@Cuzgroup You had better go away from my channel, or you will see it again. You might be able to be used to seeing it if you stay on my channel though.
virtuovice 9 months ago
i've attempted this project with an old buck 110. I obtained my scandi edge, but not that mirror polish. How fine of stone did you need?
TalonTSI95 10 months ago
@TalonTSI95 I used #1500 sandpaper to polish it up. But this finish is far less quality than the real mirror finish. They seem to use very fine abrasive powder on the polishing head to the electric device for the real mirror finish. Thank you!
virtuovice 10 months ago
Comment removed
nozakitoru123 11 months ago
Very very sharp!!
ダブルヒルトの親指側が削ってあったり、いかにも
実用本位って感じのカスタムがされていて
すごくかっこよかったです!!
nozakitoru123 11 months ago
@nozakitoru123 ありがとうございます。背側のヒルトはハンティングでは邪魔なので削り落としました。最初は躊躇がありましたが、やってみたら、この方がかっこよくなった気がしています。刃の腹の部分をうまく形成できず、短刀風の仕上がりになりましたが、それもまたかっこいい気がしています。炭素鋼も磨けば以外と錆びにくく、実用しています。
virtuovice 11 months ago
did you ever have rust problems with the leather sheath? i know these carbon blades are supposed to be oiled to prevent rusting. i am debating weather or not to buy a kydex sheath.
WolfWoodWorks 11 months ago
@WolfWoodWorks Yes, I have ever experienced the heavy rust in the wet leather sheath. Then the knife was after use and not oiled. And the leather sheath was put into the bag with wet clothing. It was the worst case. Unless the leather is very wet, it absorbs water drops from the knife and protect it from the rust. Kydex will never absorb water. The air circulation between the knife and the Kydex sheath seems very little. So the knife will stay wet long in the Kydex sheath in my experience.
virtuovice 11 months ago
That mirror shine on the large grind area makes the knife as beautiful as it must be functional. Well done!
Gairbaircairs 1 year ago
Wow, thats incredible sir.
boomunderscore0 1 year ago
i was wondering what you put on the leather handle? mine is drying out and is cracking. thank you.
i also ground off the top part of the guard to choke up, made more of a relief edge and a 30 deg edge. works great. thanks for the idea.
i dont have time to make it a scandi lol
sheldontimm 1 year ago
@sheldontimm The sandpapers made black and oily substance in wet. Which stained the handle black and oily. It was a fairly good side effect. I love what you did on your KaBar knife too. I understant it is essential in order to make it useful for other than fighting purposes. Thank you!
virtuovice 1 year ago
@sheldontimm On my leather sheaths and leather washer handles, I typically use Burt's Bees, either the hand balm or the lip balm. I just apply it to the leather and then rub it in. It'll feel sort of greasy after you rub it in, but if you let it sit for a few hours the leather will soak up the balm. That will moisturize the leather and prevent it from drying out and cracking, and it will also seal and waterproof the leather to some extent. The more you do it, the longer your leather will last.
JohannGasmask 10 months ago
@JohannGasmask thanks that sounds like a good idea and that it will work out great. I still havent been able to get any leather treatment products that dont break the bank, so this would solve my problem. thanks again
sheldontimm 10 months ago
this video is fantastic. I am very impressed by your skill and patience. You are among the few with such virtue. This video was what convinced me to buy this knife.
magnusXbane 1 year ago
6 hours of sanding. wow. i think you should invest in a belt grinder :)
Urudrim 1 year ago
@Urudrim It was before the hunting season, so I had lots of free time. But now I get used to regular waterstone sharpening. So I will never do this kind of grinding again. Thank you!
virtuovice 1 year ago
@virtuovice alls good though. you turned a great knife into a greater knife!
Urudrim 1 year ago
Very nice work
jntroisi 1 year ago
how come my kabar usmc came hair shaveing sharp out of the box?
it came with a 20 v edge is that a good degree?
asg00001 1 year ago
@asg00001 I have no idea about the full size kabar usmc. But I don't think 20 degrees is correct. I guess it can be 30 degrees because I have never met a 20 degree V edge from the factory. Thanks.
virtuovice 1 year ago
@virtuovice
well thats what the kabar company told me it was,but thank you for the reply
asg00001 1 year ago
@asg00001 Maybe I understand what the company say. Its secondary edge will have 20 degree angle from the center line. So its real edge angle will be 40 degrees. My short kabar had 40 degree edge and 25 degree bevels from the factory. Thanks.
virtuovice 1 year ago
@virtuovice
That make sence,thank you for clearing that up for me.
By the way,through watching your vids,your Englis is improving nicely.
asg00001 1 year ago
I did the same think to a full size Kabar some time ago, it is a great video, and now I know I was not the only one crazy enough to undertake the project!
autopartspro1 1 year ago
very well done .this Kabar is now more suitable for bushcraft AND combat :-)
555Nato 1 year ago
seems like that wood is very soft is that correct?
94offroad 1 year ago
@94offroad Yes, it is relatively soft. It's a 4cm square pine wood. I tested another kind of wood. Then it forced me much power and took me much time. And lastly it gave me a wrist trouble. So I got to like this wood for a knife cut test. Thanks!
virtuovice 1 year ago
Great Job my friend ! You have samurai blood in you :-)
vxAREKxv 1 year ago
It's your knife but the Kbar was designed to be a combat knife not a skinning knife.
AJSensei 1 year ago
@AJSensei This knife has a 25 degree zero grind Scandi edge and it is the sharpest knife of all my knives. Furthermore its tip is the sharpest of all my knives. It can penetrate the opponent's heart over his clothing very easily. It can slash his neck very easily, too. If I am a soldier I will carry this knife with me. I will feel very safe with this knife. This knife is no more a skinning knife. Ah... I must make another one from the full size USMC. Thanks.
virtuovice 1 year ago
@virtuovice No I was just saying that it wasn't designed to skin a deer with. It was designed for marines on the Pacific in WW2. I was a Jar-head (Marine)so I guess its a little sentimental to me. I just think there are many good bush craft knifes that are made that way and much cheaper. Anyway I do love your channel.
AJSensei 1 year ago
@virtuovice
I believe this is what AJ meant:
Some people have the ignorant belief that a fighting knife should not be very sharp.
They believe that a dull knife will cause more tissue damage.
Obviously, this is a stupid idea.
I loved the video!
damarei 1 year ago
@damarei ,yeah,a sharper blade is a more dangerous blade.that's why i always refer to those chef /butcher knives a being very deadly weapons .which they are.although not intended by the maker.
555Nato 1 year ago
amazing patience! 8+6+2 hours of sanding/sharpening! The results are just unbelievable.
knives2have 1 year ago
@knives2have Thanks, but 4 wet sanding + 2 dry sanding + 2 stone sharpening = 8 hours.
virtuovice 1 year ago
Thank you very much Wako for your opinion and valuable information.
Omar
SWAT487 1 year ago
I noticed the handle is black now, did you paint it?
bluejay693 1 year ago
@bluejay693 No, I didn't. The black oily substance came out of wet sand papers, and it stained the handle very strongly so that I was not able to wash it out. Thanks.
virtuovice 1 year ago
Just fantastic! You must have a lot of patience to do all that grinding!
JonoNZ100 1 year ago
Fantastic video!
snaponjohn100 1 year ago
How are you Wako, im going to reprofile my ontario afsk and i was thinking instead of 6 hours with the sand paper. Do you think i can use a file to take most of the metal of then finish it of with bench stones?
SWAT487 1 year ago
@SWAT487 Hi, I have never used a file to reprofile a blade. But doing it slow is the key to get a good result. Especially the belly portion and the tip are difficult. I remember that the AFSK has flat and narrow bevels. Which more match Scandi edge than convex edge. The deep angle of its bevels interferes sharpening at a proper angle. I think that is the reason why it cannot go sharp. When the bevels get to be the edge itself, the problem will disappear completely. Take care.
virtuovice 1 year ago
Crazy Sharp No Joke! -Vincent
LastDEF 1 year ago
Nice video! Personally I prefer a flat or varied convex edge for bushcrafting, hunting, skinning, and survival applications.
mem7048 1 year ago
Wako, this is absolutely an amazing video in function and illustration. I think you have many skills that are beyond the obvious.
Have you tried the various edges you are experimenting with on meat and bone? You want these primarily for your deer hunting hobby, correct? I think when deer season starts, you should divide up a deer and try to dress it in sections with the various edges to see which performs as best as you need it to. Up until now, you have established scandi best for wood.
traderjoes 1 year ago
@traderjoes Thank you very much for your comment. The deer season is coming soon, so I am much interested in how they work on meat and bone as you say. Anyways I hate chips of the edge very much. I think the chips take place when the maneuvering, the steel, the grinding or some is wrong. Even the micro chips will take me much time and labor to restore them. In the worst case the chips can ruin the blade completely. I would like to focus on micro chips in actual deer dressing.
virtuovice 1 year ago
@virtuovice Ah, that makes more sense to me. I strop using green compound and while it does smooth and put a shine on the edge, it does not come close to mirror polish. I thought I was doing something wrong.
Tanrichguy 1 year ago
@virtuovice I think we both have become spoiled with he sharpness of the bark river knives, ive onwed my gunny for a week and im already inspecting all my knives edges an wanting to get them sharper. Its not that the usmc isnt sharp, its just not razor sharp. Its practical for the things it was meant to do like fighting, stabbing, digging and whatever else the military does. Paper tests are not one of them. And also you get what you pay for. Still a great knife though. Ive seen vids on here of
drkknight614 1 year ago
@drkknight614 Your comment is very interesting. We are spoiled by Bark River you say. I totally get to agree with you right now. Thank you!
virtuovice 1 year ago
Nice job! I have a USMC short and had it reprofiled a bit but it comes no way near your result. Makes me wanna spend some hours on it...
Dronston 1 year ago
I wonder how this would work with my USAF survival knife? I don't have your patience though so I'll never know.
DrunknShooter 1 year ago
A very interesting video! I think I might try it on one of my old Camillus-made USMC knives.
Wow! 8 hours is a lot of work.
Is knife collecting/using/sharpening a common hobby in Japan? Or do you risk being called otaku if people learned of your dedication?
sae1095hc 1 year ago
@sae1095hc You say a very interesting word but it is very correct. I am definitely an otaku on knives. In Japan otaku is widely used as for a mania. They have a subtle different nuance, but nowadays they are used almost in the same occasion, and otaku is not a negative word. Thank you.
virtuovice 1 year ago
@virtuovice
I thought otaku was insulting, but it sounds like otaku has taken on the same meaning as maniakku.
Being a knife otaku is probably cheaper and better for the family than going out drinking with the guys from the office once or twice a week.
sae1095hc 1 year ago
@sae1095hc Hi, You have a very deep knowledge on Japanese language and culture. As you say "otaku" was formerly a kind of insulting word. The real meaning of "otaku" is just "you". Maniac guys call each other "otaku" when they meet even the first time at their favorite shop. "otaku" is a friendly call name as they belong to the same group. Yes, they belong to the same group of the hobby before they meet each other. So they are friendly from the first, and it looks strange to ordinary people.
virtuovice 1 year ago
WOW.
You are very brave to tackle such a project.
Your determination is amazing.
Good work. Another beautiful knife!!
nutsforknives 1 year ago
Wow! When I asked you to compare scandi grind to convex in woodcutting I figured you would acquire a new blade instead of reprofiling an existing knife! Seems to me like time well spent in the end. A fantastic result I must say. A Question: when you strop with green compound how long before you develop the mirror finish?
Tanrichguy 1 year ago
@Tanrichguy Honestly I used a 1500 grit sandpaper wrapped around the stropping paddle to make a mirror finish after all the stone sharpening was over. I don't think it is easy to make a whole blade like a mirror only with green compound.
virtuovice 1 year ago
get a dmt coarse extra diamond stone. You will do the same job in 10 minutes.
sebenzalover 1 year ago
@sebenzalover I got a 220 grit stone yesterday, and I can get a rougher one for agricultural edges. Which can release me from sandpapers. Then I will think of your recommended DMT. Thank you.
virtuovice 1 year ago
I just spent a couple of hours putting a scandi edge and a convex of sorts on a new machete as done by a a Youtuber Colhane. I was going to buy a camp knife and another neck knife but decided that a couple of reasonable quality cheaper blades with some work might perform as well. My edges arent as pretty as yours but I may well put some more time to them after seeing your result. Great video, interesting as always.
malcolmry 1 year ago
@malcolmry I checked the Colhane's machete and was much impressed with its well thought edge arrangement and thought of the effort he had paid on it. Anyhow I am thinking that I will be able to put the sharpest edge with ease on hollow ground knives because there is no metal to be ground off in the hollow portion. I will try it at as low angle as possible. Thank you.
virtuovice 1 year ago
great video as always. i did reprofile a blade once so i know how much work it involves, but mine never looked as good as that kabar did. nice work indeed.
SpartanJohns 1 year ago
That is one great looking knife. Glad all those hours paid off. Thank you for all the awesome videos.
Malideon 1 year ago
It is always amazing to see what you can do with those knives. Scary sharp.
Greetings from Texas.
EDINBURGSTAR 1 year ago
Great video. Just last night I was doing a paper cut test with all my knives and my usmc full size was the dullest, even less then practical. It came like this from the factory and i have not beat on it yet. I was looking at the edge and was like this secondary edge is way to steep to be sharp they should of made it a continous edge from the middle of the blade. You pretty much did this and now its razor sharp. I wish I could get mine like this.
drkknight614 1 year ago
@drkknight614 Thank you very much for your comment. I had been thinking that its bevel portion was too narrow and steep to make a 30 degree secondary edge. But thinking of its looks, the flat portion with a groove is nice, and its design seems to have a decent history. So for the sales KaBar continues these knives knowing their dull edges I guess.
virtuovice 1 year ago
Great job it looks real good...You are the only person on youtube that i can watch their whole video that is over 10 minutes long
7Jaybee6 1 year ago
@7Jaybee6 Thank you very much. 15 minutes is very useful to me because it allows me to speak English very slowly. While I know it is too long for viewers because I am a viewer, too.
virtuovice 1 year ago
Another Fantastic Video my Friend :-)
john
n9hxv1986 1 year ago
get a grinder it would save a lot of time,but i say 1 thing that kabar looks nice and it is much sharper.
RedJellyable 1 year ago
a strictly scandinavian grind has a small micro bevel,
that often was a little convex. It was there so that it could be resharpened very quickly, with very little steel being removed. nowadays, we have more modern sharpening mediums that cut down the time anyway, sp we can afford to sharpen the whole single bevel. But the micro bevel is still very prevalent here.
Stargazer88 1 year ago
wow, your end result is fantastic. your k-bar is now a one of a kind knife and completely different from what it was before.
Timothius82 1 year ago
Nice to see how effective the scandi is. By the way, I didn't catch on, but did you buy another Ka-Bar to do this to? Looks like one of the Kraton G handled ones, cant tell because I'm still attempting to wake up. Good vid, thank you for posting
XxLeggZxX 1 year ago
@XxLeggZxX Thank you for your comment, and for your watching my video very carefully. The sandpapers in wet made much amount of black colored oil. It stained the handle and my hands black very deeply. I tried to wash it off but failed. My hands are still dirty with the oil after 10 hours.
virtuovice 1 year ago
@virtuovice Wow, that's crazy that the oil stained the handle THAT dark. We have something here in the states called "Lava soap" try getting some it works wonders, but make sure to only use it on your hands. That stuff will get anything (and mean practically ANYTHING) off of your hands. Hopefully you can find some and hopefully it will help.
XxLeggZxX 1 year ago
@XxLeggZxX Thank you. I will try my wife's thing in the kitchen from now.
virtuovice 1 year ago
WHy don't you get a grinder/belt sander (not really sure what they're called) like knivesandstuff? Or do you just like doing it by hand? You would save yourself hours or work!
Another cool video by the way! Love them :-)
tollan23 1 year ago
@tollan23 Thanks. If possible I don't want to reprofile my knives. I have done it because I bought wrong knives. From now depending on my own experience I will never purchase a knife which forces me to reprofile it. It can be true that I enjoy doing it by hand though.
virtuovice 1 year ago
nice job...thankyou for your time ..
jkd185 1 year ago
in the UK that 'sandpaper" is known as emery cloth or Wet & Dry (used as you have just shown)..... never crossed my mind to mention it....
siypic 1 year ago
@siypic Thank you for your comment. I memorize the word "emery".
virtuovice 1 year ago
wow good job on that ka bar .
Matuliq1 1 year ago
Superb conversion Wako.. not only working better.. but it looks really cool too! You now have a very unique KaBar.. I think soon you may buy yourself a grinder to convert 8 hours to 30minutes :)
knivesandstuff 1 year ago
@knivesandstuff Thank you. Today I bought a 220 grit water stone to reprofile my Sharpmaker's dull edges. I now have just one knife left to be reprofiled from partial convex to full convex. So maybe I don't need an electric machine. Hopefully that knife will go over my Bravo1. It is a Japanese hand forged knife and its side steels are damascus.
virtuovice 1 year ago
@virtuovice Well. when time and weather permits it will be good to see how these work in the field.. you may even try the Kabar on some fish or duck :)
knivesandstuff 1 year ago