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From: JaredPolin
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  • Great video!

    My main problem with shooting concerts so far (D700 with f2.8 lenses) is with focus. If i shoot a tight shot with my 70-200mm or wide with 24-70mm or 17-35mm i usually focus on the performers eyes and than reframe but the focus doesn't lock so when i lower my camera i'm ending up with a screw up focus. Any tips with focusing and where you focus?

    Thanks

  • @Tenebrius1963 me being a theatre photographer, which is pretty close to some concerts, would tell you to manually focus or if your camera can auto focus on a specific (me being a canon can't know what you have) person's body/head. either that, or get a prime (if you don't) 50m/30mm and take the photo with the fstop really open.that will trick your camera into seeing people better.

  • hey bro. do u have a book released?

  • @golfman90 not yet its being edited. 

  • @JaredPolin oh ok then. I was hoping to purchase one of your books since your videos are very well done.

  • Great video very helpful not only for concert photography but for any kind of stage photography like high school musicals etc.

  • I just photographed a friend who is a DJ in a club. I was struggling very hard with the low light. Gonna read your E-Book now. ;D

  • @daSenfgurke that "tricking the system" tip is actually a funny thing! never thought of this before ^^ i'm going to try this next time ^^

  • is this at the troc

    

  • nikon d700(2nd handed) or nikon d7000?

    I'm not in to video and already have some primes who will fit on full frames.

  • Hey Jared, thank you for all of the GREAT info!

    In the pit, at a concert. Do you mount lenses on multiple cameras or are you using one body and switching lenses?

    A great video would be a "virtual shadow" of a concert shoot so we can see how you pack & keep track of your gear as well as using it in action.

    Thanks

    Lew

  • Thanks for the excellent video! I have a question

    I see you are in single focus, where are you focusing in the pictures where you get the drummer guitarplayer and keyboard player? If you coul do a video about this would be awesome. I mean how do you chose where to focust in such a complex scene.

  • @JaredPolin Where on your website can i find the beginners page? Its not located where you press at "beginners". The page i was looking at some days ago had 1 page and some videos and that included "Understanding depth of focus, understanding ISO, set focus, d3100 settings, phototips" videos. I cant find that page, can you link it for me Jared? :)

  • Much better Jared. Gave you a like on this video. did not zzzzz on this one.

  • Using matrix metering at concerts is suicide!

    I am an experienced concert photographer, I use Aperture priority spot meting roughly 80% of the times. The light changes faster than my thumb can switch, but my camera is fast enough to deal with quick changing light situations. Just learn how your camera meters, and apply it.

    In extreme low light, I do switch to manual, because it becomes more critical (and harder) to have the exact right exporsure

  • That was a bunch of usefull information. Thank You!

  • Great !!! Fro el Hombre !!!

  • i have nikon D7000 and if i go for ISO 2000 as u are shooting, i get a lot of noise ....

  • @vetarwyn I have the D7000 too but no big problems with noise. Make shure to expose properly. If you underexpose you will see more noise! Try to open the Aperture or drop the Shutterspeed a little. The D7000 is not a D3x so don't expect perfectly clean images. Try to have one of you "problem" files printed, you will be surprised by the quality.

  • @vetarwyn

    Noise significantly increases when you underexpose your picture. I am an experienced concert photographer and often take my D7000 to ISO 6400, which still looks great when put on the website I work for.

    It's not the camera, it's you, like 99% of the cases :)

  • Thank you Jared.

    You just opened my eyes to shoot in Manual.

    I've always been afraid of forgetting to change my settings on an important time of an event, but the difference is phenomenal. And since I'm not the experience, I will be slow at changing my settings when I do. But I guess practice makes perfect!

  • glad you recommend the m mode, using this for years and recommend it as well. it might be hard at the beginning, but you learn a much with it and after you get used to it, it's just the best

  • Great vid FRO!!

  • It's nice to see I'm doing things right. I just shot a dance company's concert in extremely low light and did pretty much the same thing. Everything turned out fantastic.

  • MATISYAHU RULES!

  • That was very nice!! Thank you very much! I'm gonna try!!

  • What if you didn't use an ISO of 2000? I like to get mine low

  • I don't even know if I would want to shoot all of the concerts that I shoot in anything other than manual mode! Thats actually when I feel the most comfortable using that mode!

  • Never did get that link for the book Fro... just looked way back in the mails and no luck... anything I can do?

  • @punkandpixie I just sent it to you.

  • @JaredPolin THANK YOU!!!! and thanks for the FroSong as well... awesome!

  • Thank you Jared for explaining in depth how you work. I know that concerts shooting is your baby (in particular when its Avril:-) So basically, you keep your aperture mostly unchanged. I think that´s a good way to go. Thanks for this, Jared.

  • @davidkaiserch the less you change the better off you are.

  • Manual.^

  • I cant never get into a concert with a DSLR!! x.X

  • I usually keep to Shutter priority, because I usually end up going for the lowest my lens will let me go (3.5) The problem is I always get motion blur and such.

  • @ReaperX3ro I think you will find that you will be much happier in manual.

  • I don't think this tipps are very practical...

    On a concert the lights keep changing at least every 10 seconds and if you want to get the unique shots of some musician jumping or what ever you can't bother with switching between modes and tweaking in manual that takes a lot of time and you have to be ready all the time...

    I'm shooting at aperture-priority-mode all the time and I'm getting very good results.

  • @carlcash88 This is one situation I was pointing out. With that said, I shoot all shows in manual no matter how much is going on. I make subtle shutter speed changes based on lighting and on occasion tweak the ISO. I am ready for the moment before it happens and I am ready to capture it even in manual. Ive learned that if I am in a priority and a person moves their head and a light was behind it and the shutter goes to 1/4000 that images is not usable.

  • @JaredPolin I don't think this video you made here was bad... in fact I enjoyed it pretty much but I just thought it lacked this particular point that I was speaking about in my first post.

    Hm I think it comes down to personal choice, experience or even laziness^^

    I were getting pretty good results with aperture-priority-mode so far.

    I'm trying your method at the next concert ;)

  • @carlcash88 try both methods, I used to stay in aperture priority but than realized that those shots I wanted where the artists moved I would end up with a totally dark image where if I had my settings set manually and close I would always bring it back.

  • @carlcash88 I started in photography using only manual, because I came into photography guided by a friend.

    About 8 or 9 months later, when I was really confortable with all options in my old EOS 40D, I started using Ap-Prior. Liked it.

    And I still use it now from time to time, but... once you feel like "knowing" and "controling" your light just with a quick glance... and knowing how to anticipate... it's really the best.

    And I see a lot of huge errors now to the Ap-prior-mode.

  • What about White Balance? do you use a grey card or something (Costume White Balance in the camera) or do you shoot everything in Auto WB and fix them all in LR?

  • @ashkibala1 i do on touch white balance in the camera. The colors change so much, tweak that in the RAW if needed.

  • @JaredPolin Which meteringmode are you usually using, Matrix or center-weighted?

    Br

  • @MultiSaffran mines always on matrix but i rarely use the meter anymore other than a quick glance. If I really needed to shoot a show with needing the meter I would prob say spot.

  • Thumbs up if you laughed when he said oops lens cap! Its nice to see a pro like Jared still make rookie mistakes like i do. Im protective of my lenses. they always have the caps on them.

  • hey man nice to see another vid,very big fan,im a british photography student and am wondering what lighting would you recommend for shooting a wedding, most of it will be indoors.

  • @Mrnata1991 Get a fast lens. 1.8 or lower. That will help on your indoor weddings. As for additional light i setup a couple of strobes in the corner of the chapel and fire them wirelessly and bounce them off of the ceiling as much as i can. I hate direct flash unless its diffused somehow. But im still new so maybe there are better ways.

  • @orgazmo1009 yea, i have the canon nifty 50 1.8, i also have a 70-200 2.8, the thing is i only have a single flash (ex 430ii) with pocket wizards.

    ps can you check out my vid its under "nathan james photography" and its the top one, thanks.

  • @Mrnata1991 you should be good. i use a 2.8 with a 430exII and dont have problems. I turn that bad boy up to 1/1 and let her sing! I never go below 1/20 of a second if no one is moving. coming down the aisle i never go below 1/200. I never shoot over 1600 iso either. what camera are you using?

  • @Mrnata1991 Well judging from your latest comment, I think a 24-70 f/2.8 or an 85 f/1.2L (or 1.8 USM). Those are good lenses for a wedding :)

  • @BrandonKingVloggin thnx man definitely consider it

  • @Mrnata1991 No probs! I'm saving up for an 8-15 fisheye and a 50 f/1.2L.. or just get a 1.4 for money for a 100 f/2.8 macro haha It's a really hard choice when you're on a budget and you have to decide what lens you really want

  • @Mrnata1991 ano man i am trying my hardest to save up for a 5d mkii but its too hard lol

  • Pretty much, it's all about not letting the camera guess for you.

  • Comment removed

  • LOL at leaving the lens cap on , great vid Jared , when are you going to do a video using your Westcott Gear im excited to see how you use it and what you create ????? Thanks

  • ISO 2000 ! wow Noise? I have a D7000 and it would show a lot of noise at that setting :(

  • @pjos111 Noise is relative to so many things. If your exposure is so far off and you try to bring it back you will see noise. But if you shot outside at 6400 ISO with great light you would not see noise where as in terrible light you would. 

  • @JaredPolin I am learning something everyday :)

  • @JaredPolin Jared, cant you do a video about this subject? 

  • @pjos111 Really? Ive shot at ISO 2000 at these kind of settings and there wasn't much noise. D7000 is really good at dealing with noise.

  • @pjos111 I shoot nightclub photography (for web) at ISO 1000 - 1600 on my D7000 with no issues. I can't imagine 2,000 being so horrible

  • @pjos111 change ur noise reduction setting to high and u wont see alot of noise at the 2000...iv shout at 4000 during a basketball game and could barely see it...but check this out jared said this in one of his vids, "i rather have alot of noise and it be a sharp picture then it be blurry"

  • @pjos111 dude, i have a D5100 18/55 kit, and pump the iso to 3200, almost none noise

  • @pjos111 i bet those pictures had noise and alot of it. But if you crunch that down to video quality you wont be able to see it. I've often also noticed that the perception of noise is diffrent from person to person.

  • I never got use to useing all the help aids... iven ever had it in anything other than manual...

  • Jared, when you shoot in general, what do you go for, matrix or center-weighted metering? I cant decide really whats best, its hard..

  • @jher1022 Please e mail my personal e mail address. I need to know all of our info to see why your package did not get there.

  • Did I see "All images are unedited?" you shooting in JPEG!?!?!?

  • @JD95 Unedited does not mean shot jpeg, unedited means I did not EDIT the RAW FILES so that you could see what came out of the camera.

  • @JaredPolin

    Hello Jared. The thing is, even you shoot RAW and put it through LR3(with initial Adobe RGB settings),

    it still is different from what "comes right out of camera." Correct me if I'm wrong but developing a RAW alone is editing in a sense (since Adobe RGB settings in LR3 has been applied to make the JPEG) and the only way to get "real unedited image (straight out of camera)" is by shooting in JPEG.

  • @JD95 No a JPEG out of the Camera ist also edited. Done by the knowledge of the engineers of Canon or Nikon or what ever brand one uses. The only real out of camera image would be an untouched RAW file.

  • @marcusboos78

    Sure, tell that to Jared. He's the one that mentioned it's straight out of camera. And yes, RAW files are developed through RAW developing software or in camera RAW developing tools. However, note that when you run a RAW file through a RAW developing software, it adds, +50 brightness, +25 contrast, +bit of sharpness, noisereducton, etc. Along with color profile.

  • @JD95 continued... If Jared had set all those setting to zero and spat it out to JPEG, then, it's "untouched" RAW file. But looking at the pictures, they have way over contrast that really doesn't look like a RAW file with zero editing/developing.

  • @JD95

    Not in mine

  • @marknl90

    Right, so it was edited and not straight out RAW. I'm not trying to argue with you:) or anything but it just got to me that shooting in JPEG is not always bad. I shoot RAW 99% of the time and RAW develop them but occasionally I like JPEG out of the camera better. Just sayin.

  • @JD95

    And you think the camera doesn't edit by itself? There is a very advanced and tweakable RAW converter in the D3s.

    To conclude: there is no "comes right out of camera". There is only basic settings that Nikon put on their camera, but it's only them saying so.

    Same goes for film, you still need to expose it in the dark room

  • @marknl90

    Sure, and so your point is to prove that Jared's photos were edited.

  • @JD95

    No, just that he does his best to get to the closest as possible to a original file.

  • Such great tips

  • Nice video, I shoot a concert last saterday and I was on manual mode, spot metering on the subject face, I got very consistent result and even if I shoot the all show att 6400 iso with my nikon d7000 the noise was very much under control

  • My favorite part about your videos (most are too advanced for me to know what the hell you're talking about) is that you're always in a different place, with really cool backgrounds and surroundings. Sometimes I just watch to see where you're gonna be, LOL.

    You're awesome, keep up the good work buddy.

    Nic Coventry | Recovering Banker

  • go with Aperture, 2.8 or less if you can, spot metering, and spot the faces; adjust the EV acording to the skin of the performers; that's all

  • As much as Im gonna get flamed for this, this is the one reason I love the EVF on my a77, with the EVF I get a better preview of the exposure with the live brightness changes of shutter speed and aperture in manual mode :D EVF has its advantages peeps ;)

  • @Robellislol The same way a wheelchair has advantages over walking.

  • @RobotKazoo Youve clearly never used an a77 for anything more than 10 minutes, have you? -.-....

  • Great video Jared! But I still don't understand if you shoot concert using matrix or spot metering? I personally would shoot in spot metering as I want to decide who I wanna expose. Thanks for your help!

  • I wanna go to Matisyahu's show!!

  • Very interesting on a slow exposure with strobe lights, particularly around drummer

  • Jared, nearly all of the problems you describe are related to matrix metering but not aperture priority itself.

  • @BeneJ just a basic starting point as most people stay in matrix. In the free ebook i speak about spot metering. Keep in mind this is just one short video clip. It would take a full on 4 hour video to get to every little nuance.

    Just wanted to show the extremes in this but yes I know what you are saying.

  • nice nice nice

  • Thx 4 your work Jared!

  • When I shoot at festivals with craptacular (large convention center halls), I quite often switch from AP to Manual, even with flash. My D80 overexposed worse than my D7000, but I still go to manual from time to time.

    Jared, are you using the DOF button to determine exposure before shooting?

  • @bryonlape i have never ever ever ever ever ever ever used the dof button. did i say ever?

  • You still need a meter for reference, and the on camera meter wold say the same as aperture priority, I'd have thought?

  • @Maxsdiscos yes you do, i wrote that into the article on the web site with this post.

  • Thanks man its really helpful!!!!

  • Ok, manual is good. But what about when lights are changing quite often (that is the case on concerts, isn't it?) Should I remember the settings for different lighting conditions (like strong backlight, then even bright light, then low-key focused on the solo player for example?) Thanks for the vids, Jared!

  • @dachevashe I shoot it in full manual even with the lights changing. I look at what direction the light went. If it got totally dark i dont shoot or I know I need to make certain changes. I tweak as the light changes, drop the shutter raise the shutter, bump the iso lower the iso. that help?

  • @JaredPolin Well, that's kind of obvious, it is a simple direct implication of shooting in manual. But more examples would be appreciated, I'm always afraid that I will need to guess the new shutter speed when the light is changed accidentally, i.e. spend time on guessing exposure instead of just metering it. Actually, I would love to have something like AE-ON button, imagine you're in manual, but you press it and the camera meters it once and leaves you in manual.

  • @dachevashe I honestly dont look at the meter, i base it off of experience and the lights changing. I get very very close and work from there. It just comes with shooting for so long.

  • @dachevashe I shoot manual 100% of the time, including concerts... and I've shot A LOT of concerts. After a while I got to where I could change settings to fit the lighting conditions very quickly just by memory and because I had done it so much. I had settings memorized from experience. If you want to check out my concert photos my website link is in my profile.

  • @dachevashe You should write them on your arm to be more convenient.

  • Jared, what you have screen recover for mac? Pls say name program

  • nice work jared! love you tutorials.

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