From what I understand, bashing layered steel at welding temperature could possibly"open up" layers next to the hit... Using this press or a good fly press with a long platform so you can press the whole billet at the same time is the way to go. The trick is to get it to a smoking hot yellow / red, flux, then back to the same color (30 secs if you have a good furnace) then press the whole thing together, whatch it all ooze together and off you go ! I am just learning - would love feedback !
It is simple to show one how to forge weld in person and very hard to explain the process in words. Heat to about 1500 then flux, reheat (to about 2100+) until flux rolls and dances, heat a little more, then hammer end of stack until sound of hammer impact and the feel of the impact changes, (you can feel the billet turning solid by sound and feel - overlap hammer blows, reheat, reflux, repeat. Sounds easy and it is eventually, but not at first. Good luck in your quest.
You can not get the compression or production with a hammer that this press will achieve in one press. It will reduce the time to forge Damascus by a factor of 50%. It can press evenly across a 2" X 4" surface, much greater area than a hammer face in same operation. More compression / more area / less amount of heats. This video is just a test of my original design, check my other videos for more current info.
I've been following the thread over at Fogg's. Any thoughts on what size stock this press can handle, as a practical matter?
I've been thinking of putting the bottle jack on top of the dies, so that it's downward acting. The advantage would be that I could leave a sort of pritchel in the bottom cross-beam, and I'd be able to slit and drift with the press.
Material size it will handle I can not say about the max, but I have pressed up to about a (very hot) 2" thick billet with success. Air pressure and die width / length affect how much it will compress the piece. Smaller die more pressure, large die less pressure.
I've been following the thread over at Fogg's. Any thoughts on what size stock this press can handle, as a practical matter?
I've been thinking of putting the bottle jack on top of the dies, so that it's downward acting. The advantage would be that I could leave a sort of pritchel in the bottom cross-beam, and I'd be able to slit and drift with the press.
I think that a top mounted jack might have some advantage, but the reason I chose the bottom position for the jack was to keep the overall height of the jack as small as possible, also with the jack on top, I think you might need to have a wider base or fixed base.
do you think a 2 hp 8 gallon compressor will work? what size do you have?
huckleberry803 9 months ago
@huckleberry803 - I am running a small compressor 3 hp 120 psi max, I run at about 100 psi.
TAToler 4 months ago
I dont know much about that stuff, but that's totally cool
DCVU2 1 year ago
I think ive seen a few people who have these. How much do you think you have in it?
slab698 1 year ago
@slab698 - 100.00 in this model, made mostly from scrap in my shop
TAToler 11 months ago
Great vid. Thanks for taking the time to share!
nosehitfloor 2 years ago
From what I understand, bashing layered steel at welding temperature could possibly"open up" layers next to the hit... Using this press or a good fly press with a long platform so you can press the whole billet at the same time is the way to go. The trick is to get it to a smoking hot yellow / red, flux, then back to the same color (30 secs if you have a good furnace) then press the whole thing together, whatch it all ooze together and off you go ! I am just learning - would love feedback !
butski69 2 years ago
It is simple to show one how to forge weld in person and very hard to explain the process in words. Heat to about 1500 then flux, reheat (to about 2100+) until flux rolls and dances, heat a little more, then hammer end of stack until sound of hammer impact and the feel of the impact changes, (you can feel the billet turning solid by sound and feel - overlap hammer blows, reheat, reflux, repeat. Sounds easy and it is eventually, but not at first. Good luck in your quest.
TAToler 2 years ago
haha i have one of those i got the jack from harbor freight
codydean10 2 years ago
hey man is there any chance you could tell me the measurements for this knife making press.thanx
Saferetias 2 years ago
hi, id just like to know if its posible to get the blue prints for this press?
Saferetias 3 years ago
2' tall and about 1' wide
and about 10" deep at base
measurements are not critical, modify to suite the material you have at hand
TAToler 2 years ago 2
You can not get the compression or production with a hammer that this press will achieve in one press. It will reduce the time to forge Damascus by a factor of 50%. It can press evenly across a 2" X 4" surface, much greater area than a hammer face in same operation. More compression / more area / less amount of heats. This video is just a test of my original design, check my other videos for more current info.
TAToler 3 years ago
I've been following the thread over at Fogg's. Any thoughts on what size stock this press can handle, as a practical matter?
I've been thinking of putting the bottle jack on top of the dies, so that it's downward acting. The advantage would be that I could leave a sort of pritchel in the bottom cross-beam, and I'd be able to slit and drift with the press.
matthbva 3 years ago
Material size it will handle I can not say about the max, but I have pressed up to about a (very hot) 2" thick billet with success. Air pressure and die width / length affect how much it will compress the piece. Smaller die more pressure, large die less pressure.
TAToler 3 years ago
2" round 4140 for hammers is what I had in mind. Working it by hand, alone, is pretty tough (to put it very mildly).
matthbva 3 years ago
I've been following the thread over at Fogg's. Any thoughts on what size stock this press can handle, as a practical matter?
I've been thinking of putting the bottle jack on top of the dies, so that it's downward acting. The advantage would be that I could leave a sort of pritchel in the bottom cross-beam, and I'd be able to slit and drift with the press.
matthbva 3 years ago
I think that a top mounted jack might have some advantage, but the reason I chose the bottom position for the jack was to keep the overall height of the jack as small as possible, also with the jack on top, I think you might need to have a wider base or fixed base.
TAToler 3 years ago
Thanks, new video will be up today, it is on flattening, squaring, and drawing with the little press.
TAToler 3 years ago
thats ace i think i might make one are thay noisy that clicking sound
pitbike2006 3 years ago
The clicking sound is the air compressor running the cylinder. Some what loud - sound of air compressor more so than bottle jack.
TAToler 3 years ago
ow is it your compressor any hey nice engineering makeing that very smart 10/10
pitbike2006 3 years ago