Checkmate HVAC Test Kit .mp4

[hvactrainingschools]

thanks for sharing this video..this is such a useful information tips..!!!

[daskalaka]

thanks for upload

[robertmoffett1]

Some "crack head" broke into my service van last night and jacked all my tools.

[robertmoffett1]

I've been using these for a few years and they are almost as valuable as my manifold set and DVOM when diagnosing HVAC systems. I would not show up to any service call without them.

[johnpast12]

I am glad to see that you test for acid; most technicians do not. For system acid you must test the oil phase and not the refrigerant. You rarely get a positive test for acid in the vapor phase unless it is a burnout. I agree with your reluctance to not use additives. Additives can and will create more problems than they intend to cure. The reason for testing a system oil for acid is to see if the dryer must be replaced. There is no better safe and proven cure than changing the dryer.

[fattony123082]

If there is acid... I'm still a fan of just changing dryers... Alot of guys add Acid Away...

My mind is still set on If the system did not come from the factory with it DON"T USE IT... I tend to test acid levels with the little PH-strip tubes called * qwik shots* change a dryer once a week till clean... saved many compressors...

[Mineretta2012]

My man is HVAC certified and I am saving this for him cause he is too busy for subscribing. Thanks guys.

[3154231]

nice vid, looks like a very nice setup to test with

[johnpast12]

@3154231

Thank you for your positive review.

[johnpast12]

This is a test to check for possible system contamination in the oil and refrigerant. It is a tool used in periodic maintenance, after a compressor replacement or shell tube rupture. Who knows what that noob did to the system before you got the call. Maybe this kit will help you undo the damage. Thanks for your comments.

[im415again]

noobs like to overfill compressors with oil on top of old oil. I'm sure this at home pregnancy test kit will be OK for those who care to bother with trying to convince their customers to keep things clean, but to try and show this to your customer and explain it is another thing. They don't care to hear about this stuff they just want you to fix it as cheap as possible. For those of you who want to get into HVAC be like Mike and JUST DO IT. Get your EPA and NATE and work hard you can do it.

[wolfofworld]

Why did he crank the suction service valve open then closed for the oil test? That is always open.

[johnpast12]

@wolfofworld

The service valve was opened so oil will enter into the test vial; then the service valve is closed after oil hits the indicator. The tube can now be removed to read the result (color change) of the indicator layer.

[alfebre1]

hi im a new student of HVAC and i have a cuestion maybe you can help me, whats the best for a domestic air handler a sleeve-bearing motor or ball bearing for the same appication? i think one is not good because of posible noise problem but im not sure thank you

[tstatech]

@alfebre1 It has to do with horse power vs RPM. One is not better than the other in any way that is meaningful to anyone other than the manufacturer of the motor.

Fasco has a good online booklet called FASCO FACTS that is the best motor resource I have found.

If you want a quiet system worry about airflow distribution 1st. Low velocity = low noise.

If you want a quiet motor then you want an ECM or the new X-13 motor.

Fan geometry has a lot to do with noise as well.

[310extreme]

im taking an HVAC class, and wow, i feel like dropping out of it alread. its sooooo confusing!!!!!!!! and im barely doing recovery lol.

[johnpast12]

@310extreme Hang in there and bust your brain a little.

[airlift11]

there are new guages out now with the siteglass in the manifoldand you can tell from there and if need be add in chemical to get rid of moisture

[johnpast12]

@airlift11

Never add a chemical to eliminate acid or moisture; always change the driers. Where are these gauges?

[airlift11]

instead of using this way why not but the guages that show what ur acid and mositure is in the system?

[johnpast12]

@airlift11

I do not know of any gauges that show acid and moisture. If you mean a sight glass with moisture indicator, those only show moisture exceeding 70 ppm. Moisture over 10 ppm is the breaking point and the detector tubes will measure this critical moisture level.

[Trameishaa]

should have schieders

[johnpast12]

@Trameishaa

Schraders will restrict flow which you do not want when testing.

[xjoeharperx]

If you pierce the sampling tube before attaching your hoses, wouldnt that introduce moisture into the sampling tube?

[johnpast12]

@xjoeharperx

I assume you are concerned about air/moisture entering the outlet of the detector tube assembly if you do not connect your hoses in a timely manner. Since this is the outlet and not the inlet of the detector tube assembly it will not affect the test results. If you do not connect the hoses to the outlet then air/moisture will enter and stain the top of the detector tube scale. So always connect your hoses.

[onetwonine2]

If I emptied system to 16 PSI, then refilled. Is there any chance of moisture getting inside?

[johnpast12]

@onetwonine2

If you purged your charging lines correctly no moisture would enter the system.

[orbtaybal]

@onetwonine2

Why guess? If you are unsure, recover to 0 PSI. Then vacuum down to 500 microns and recharge.

Probably check the oil using the checkmate too.

Also to note the difference in burn outs of the compressor. If you have a running burn out the entire system is contaminated and will need to be replaced (use a flush at your own discretion, flame war will ensue about that opinion. A starting burn out will only contaminate the condenser as it has not reached the evaporator yet.

[luisilloz1]

johnpast12 how do i get this test kit

[johnpast12]

@luisilloz1

Try Johnstone Supply and thank you for your interest.

[Whoflungmung]

Those detector tubes are neat. I haven't messed with them yet but I can't wait to!