You know what I still don't get: Lets say I have a bowl. I want to make a sphere that will fit perfectly in that bowl.. How do I make a mold of that? And then when I go to cover the mold in fiber, won't the end piece be the same size as the bowl and therefor not fit?
@Ryanty12 PVA is a secondary release agent I use only when making the mold of the plug. It is an insurance policy for release xD Gelcoat give a tough sandable, polishable surface that will resist 100's of parts from a single mold. If all you want if to make a a few parts max, then gelcoat is not needed, but you will notice mold deterioration after every part from it you make. It also gives a uniformed surface to see imperfections.
When you start putting the fiberglass resin and glass cloth on do you have to do it all before the resin cures? Or can you let it dry and harden and just mix up another batch and go right over the top? I see most resins only have a 10 minute window or so I don't really understand how exactly you are timing it. Also on your other video it looked like you put the resin on and it dried before you put the fiberglass over it?
This is brilliant mate. Thanks for putting it up. Clears a few things up for me.
A lot of blokes are telling me to use epoxy resin instead of poly resin for shrinkage reasons. I can understand this with female plugs, but on male plugs that are solid enough wouldn't this mean a tighter mold?
Also, could I spray the PVA with the 3mm tip gun? I've got the same gun as you that you use for the gellcoat. Or maybe those pressure spray bottles at Super Cheap Auto?
How stiff was the first flat piece you made? I've never done this before, and I'd like to make a small RC boat. So I'm trying to determine how thick to make it.
mold making is a bitch i remember me and my old boss made a dome or semi sphere measurering 2.6 in diameter with a 1.3 meter hight. making the mold was an asshole of a job.you couldn't use an orbital/belt sander either cause you get flat spots so it was all done by hand. one of my last jobs before he went broke lol
Hey man, nice tutorial! I'm trying to get into this myself, just starting out. I was wondering, what is that metallic roller called? I went to a hardware store and couldn't find one, and the guy didn't know what I was talking about when I tried to describe it to him. Where can I find one?? Thanks for sharing the video!
@DanFrederiksen duh! If a mold doesn't easily pop out trim the CAST or cut it in half and add a layer of fiberglass around both sides. simple and efficient
Hi - I've heard that you can also use vinegar to dissolve the fiberglass to take it off your skin. Is this a final product or a mold for making parts - if it's the final, I don't suppose it matters if it's a just a bit larger than the original. Thanks for this video!
how long do you have before your pva "goes off" as in if i sprayed it one night and started the gelcoat the next afternoon, how long do i have before i would have to wipe the pva off and start again? cheers
this is a great video, finally someone went into great detail to explain the process. i'm a newbie at this kinda stuff but i made a samus helmet a while back and i always wanted to make a replica of it but i just didn't know how. i'm going to use this method unless there is a better one you might wanna mention to me? look at my helmet and let me know if this would be the best way of making a replica of it, thanks a lot!! I'd really really appreciate some feedback!!
how man how would i go about fibre glassing a hole bonnet? do i use the original bonnet as a mold and wat do i needa do cheers i live in NZ so any products etc would be great :D
@unclejaymee To do it properly you will need to make tooling (negative mold) from the stock bonnet. Study up of two part mold flanging, use clay/plastercene to fill all the holes and gaps on the underside. Aluminum tape works great too and is faster. Tap/drill steel plates is what I used for my hinge reconnection, plates go inbetween the halves and I made a steel jig for perfect spacing. I recomend FGI products, Im pretty sure they have NZ stores, google it.
@Munky332 I live in Australia and get my stuff from FGI in Sydney. I cant recommend anything for the US, just that you should find a proper fiberglassing/marine supply company/distributor and not bye from a department store like walmart.
hey man, nice video! I am working on a CF quarter panel for our race car and wasn't sure about flanging as the mould needs to be 3 pieces. It seems that clay is the answer for my 'flange issues' :) I'll give this a shot very soon. Thanks again!
@avantims For car paneling I would try and do it the flexi flanging method, with clay to fill gaps specially with CF. But if you cant do it this way then clay will work too.
@frithwks lol, PVA Glue is a completely different (and opposite) product. PVA is the base that both of them use, but PVA release agent is not an adhesive, it will create that film like PVA glue does, but for the purpose of release. Do not use PVA glue for anything fiberglass.
Where do you buy the large container of PVA? The only way I'm able to find it is in spray can and its expensive that way. Is there a way to find it locally or is online the only place to find PVA?
@jonwhunt You should be able to find PVA locally, use your yellow pages directory, lookup fiberglass supplies or marine supplies. Marine Hardware also.
Yes, this is what i`m trying to do. I want to know, because you have work with the materials, what`s the suitable thickness? A material with 5 mm its resistant for what i`m trying to do?
Pardon my english is not the best.
Thank your for your answer!
PS: Yes, the window will be from plastic glass or plexiglass, i`m not sure which is the right word.
@paraplegicu Yes, this is a pretty heavy grade, about double what im using in this video. Remember you can peel the layers apart to give you lighter grades.
No, vacuuming is different, you saturate the carbon in resin in the mold(with a brush) and let your breather cloth soak the excess during vacuum. bag time depends on the hardener speed you purchased. Read the product and find cure time to temp, make sure you bag for entire cure.
hey bro very nice video im building a carbon fiber dash off the oem one with some small mods and am complety using your video to do so.... however i have a few questions. i am making a plug so all my buds can get one as well. i am doing it front bumper style so no need for a 2 part mold. but with carbon do i need to do the gelcoat or just put resin down first? and if using a gelcoat and wanting the carbon look would i just use clear gelcoat. And yes i am doing a full vaccum bag set up.
You will need to use epoxy resin to get the clear look. There are surface coats avail, but I would just spray it after with some clear for UV protection. When making carbon parts make sure you spend the time and get your mold surface perfect. Make sure you get the weights perfect when mixing epoxy, it is very temperamental. I hope you have some experience before doing something this size, allot can go wrong. You will need to keep it in vacuum until the epoxy is fully cured, at least 8 hours.
Great video! learned so much, it is a credit to you to take the time out to put such professional videos together for people such as I, who are looking for any tips to help them to improve or others just starting out. Thank you so much for your gift.
This is, I'm sure, a silly place to ask, but it's the first place I've found that seemed SORTA like the place to ask.
I've been looking around, and am aware of how to make 2 part molds (though this video helped a bit!) and I have been thinking over all the projects I'd like to be able to do with fiberglass, and a problem keeps coming up: How to I patch a seam between parts that are thin or long (such as a 2-inch diameter tube that's 4 feet long)?
If you can reach inside to layup the mould closed you can do it seamless. There are other methods to make seamless tubing, but it it much more complicated and I cant go into it here, no room, no time.
Thank You for advice :) Lastly wax was the only thing i have aplicated (without PVA) and it passed the exam :) Mold is shining, and there was no problem to release the mold from model :) Now I can use this mold to produce sinks :) Good Luck
For NickBlackDIN: Gel coat is resist of many factors. For example water, scrathes, usually UV, some chemicals etc. ..... I have a different question. Is there a need to varnish the mold or not? .... and about my last comment - finaly I used only wax on the varnished model, without PVA. Now I wait for my gel coat to dry. I hope it woun't stick, and I will be able to release the mold :)
I cant say if the wax will do, hopefully for your sake it will. Varnish could absorb the wax if it contains certain materials typically found in some soluble based products. If it was two pak based and you waited long enough for cure then it will be ok.
Nice work. I have problem to make a mold. I want to make a sink.I have a model made from poliester resin. varnished and polished. I've put special wax on this sink. I have PVA purposed to use with paintbrush. But it doesn't work. PVA gutters, doesn't keep together. It looks like Swiss cheese while after aplication. There are holes growing. PVA layer is full of holes. Why is it like that? The surface under PVA (polished wax - 7 layers) was shiny and clean. I would be glad If you give me any clue
Its difficult to say if wax will do because I dont know anything about the varnish you used for your top layer. PVA cant be brushed on, if you cant spray you should rub it on with a cloth, very softly on the secondary layers so as not to rip the underlayers. It is difficult to do, ive only done it once before.
Hi, im very new to fiberglass and i was wondering... my cars rear bumper completly tore in half (already a fiberglass bumper) is there any particular grade of fiberglass it will be strong enough to hold the two parts together without a large build up of the actual fiberglass? would the 600 be strong enough as it looks pretty tough in your vid.... any response is greatly appreciated
Be aware that 600 mat is is made of up 2x300 and 300 2x150 and so on, you can use 300 or 600 it all depends on how many layers to put on. It will hold it together but also consider the front smooth port being repaired which raw fiberglass cant do, also will it mount back onto your car after you glass it?
Well ive worked out that i have just over 20mm to work with so that should be fine, i have also took the front part into consideration and im gonna fiberglass all of it and smooth it down with some sand paper. See if i put more hardener onto the resin and apply it extra fast would that work on toughening issues or would it just harden the fiberglass the same amount?
rofl. Yes same amount, mixing catalyst can be dangerous, ive seen a batch start smoking and would burn the skin to the touch. You need to measure catalyst carefully and dont go over 3%
Hey thanks for the vids, I am among a high number of people who want to see informative, highly descriptive videos, we all thank you for posting and for sharing your useful knowledge. And nice job handling the pompus jackass know-it-all there ;)
I don't see what there is not to believe, i'm not exactly proud of working in glorified factories making shit loads of money for other people, i might lie about being an astronaght, but not my job. All i'm saying is (and im sorry for being so aggressive) there is no need for pva. It's like a video on here by a company called fiberglast who seem to think you need loads of their own products just so they can sell them, just to make a badly done aeroplane cowl.
This video is for the home glasser, not the seasoned professional millionaire or whatever you think you are. PVA guarantees release in plug>mould creation, Wax will not work 100% in this situation and you should know this. Certain paints and fillers will absorb wax and will cause destruction of people work. I actually encourage people not to use PVA on part creation in other videos and comments. Plugs and fresh moulds only. Next time add a useful comment that viewers could gain off.
great videos, im just about to venture into making my first moulds and parts so i apologise for the n00b question but is the PVA used as a release agent instead of wax also how many layers of matting is best
PVA should be used ontop of wax and not by itself, but it will probably be ok to use by itself but one rip and its all over red rover.
Asking how much matte to use is like asking how much water to drink, it depends on how thirsty you are. For moulds I like to use 3-4 layers of 225g matting. Leaves some room for flex. But sometimes you dont want your flanges to flex up when you try to pop every part so in these situations I will thicken it up, sometimes well after.
man this thing is sick and you make it look so easy, i just want to learn so i can make a lip and a spoiler to my car since the one i want is discontinued and uber expensive, you think u can pm me with some tips? please!
You will get little tips and tricks from my videos, but I have never done a body kit before so I cant really help you more specifically other then search for other projects like it online.
yeah thats cool, but im not really building a whole body kit i'm just making my rear spoiler a lil bit bigger and the front lip the same just adding volume to it, should i just tape them and then start from there? as like just adding few more inches and a lil curve to it, you know what i mean?
I would use curvy guides and templates to make foam additions(2 part polyurethane) and glass overtop. Make sure you etch up the surface to get good adhesion on abs. Finish with a high quality body filler, prime and a professional top coat with allot of sanding along the way. In a nutshell.
Great video, really great. Not to be nitpicky, but your respirator doesn't have a Charcoal VOC filter on it, only a particle filter. Do you still smell the resin with the respirator on? When I woodwork, I only wear the pads, but I have to wear a charcoal and particle filter at the same time to keep everything out when finishing. Might be a good idea for you too, to keep out both the glass particulates and the resin VOC's. Too many of my friends have gotten lung cancer, so I am real careful.
I do have another one organic filters. But I dont often where it. I cant small the fumes in this one. If I ever do this in industry I will def use an organic filter.
Best instruction vid i´v seen. Whats the diferens betwen Gelcoat and PVA. I mean what do they doo sepratly. Does pva give it a glossy shine? and Gelcoat is a hardener?? Sorry but never done this before.
rofl. PVA is a semi permanent release agent. It provides release on plugs and molds. Gelcoat is a resin based coating like a thick paint that usually goes on first into a mould so that (reversed) it comes up as top surface on your part or mold. PVA is water based and dries naturally so does not have a hardener. Gelcoat does have hardener, same hardener as your polyester resin and at the same mixures.
Leave the glecoat as is, polish/glaze/wetsand is needed but never put another product over the gelcoat it will come off with your parts or stick your parts for good.
Sorry deleted ur comment by accident. You talking about chopped strand mat and the woven cloths. As a beginner you should stick to chopped strand mat. Only use woven when you know and understand why you would use it over chopped.
I have been in grp laminating for a few years and the occasional bit of molding work but I have learnt a lot more from your videos than i ever have at work. I am going to build a boat but was getting put off by the cost of molds, with your techniques I can now take a mold from a borrowed boat or a cheap old knackered one and build one and I'll also have a spare mold.
Thanks very much I really appreciate your videos and I'll make sure I upload a video of my boat mold making .
The metallic roller if only used to flatten and compress the layers and remove trapped air. You still need to wet out the matt/cloth with something, either a paint brush or a paint roller. You dont need to use a metallic roller but it does help, specially on flat surfaces.
I have a question. I do not know why, but when i was spraying that PVY, it was making some spider webs. I could not spray it. I put 70,80,90 PSI of pressure, but it still same shit. Any idea why?? I have a HVLP gun
PVA doesnt have hardener. I would try at 90 psi with some water in it to thin it out, try to mist spray for far way. You might be getting confused as to where the problem is, the surface will come out running, lumpy and bubbly if you spray it like your would paint. Hold it far enough away so that only the mist hits the plug/mold.
Just wanted to drop you a line and say that you have inspired me to take the fiberglas plunge! Thank you! I can only find a 2.5mm tip at this time. Will that be fine for the gelcoat? Or should I research more and find a 3-3.5mm tip?
Thanks. 2.5 should be fine, make sure you get spraying gelcoat which is thinned with an extra 5% styrene. (or just get some styrene) Try and avoid thinning with acetone, use only as last resort.
im trying to take the plunge too, but i want to spend as little cash as possible. Im aware that you can brush on the gel coat, but is there a cheap way to apply he PVA without investing in some expensive equipement?
You can apply PVA with a cloth, dab some on the end and rub it in like wax, just got to be gentle on the following layers not to rip the under layers. Its hard to do. You cant brush it, it just pools.
Hey mate, I made a plug out of polystyrene for a fibreglass airbox for my car. Anyway it didnt turn out that great and some of the polyester resin soaked through the plastic layer i used and ate away at the foam. Anyway i decided to fill the plug with bog and smooth it out and make a mould using your method. My question is i dnt have a spray gun, can i brush pva on? Is there anything else i can use to spray it. Pump pack or something? Where do you get the clay from as well? Cheers mate.
Yes most styrofoams wont hold up to polyester resins. You should seal it with something before you take a mold, like an acrylic primer spray pack... then body filler to smooth it out.
You can apply PVA with a cloth, dab some on the end and rub it in like wax, just got to be gentle on the following layers not to rip the under layers. Its hard to do. You cant brush it, it just pools. Ive never seen a PVA spray pack, but its a good idea.
Hey mate, one more question. If i want to make a mould of the plug, Is it better to have it fully finished? ( for example: painted and cut back with wet and dry paper).
Also have you done any work with carbon fibre? I want to attempt to vacuum bag carbon weave to my two part mould? I made a vac pump using a fridge compressor i had lying around (im a a/c mechanic by trade) Have you done anything like this before? Does the carbon struggle to take shape of a female mould?
what is it that you are making here? I'm curious if you have an opinion about using the woven mesh fiberglass versus the small patchy stuff? does the woven stuff bend stiff and leave depressions when wetting out? what is the difference between the two different colored resins you use (one blue, the second one is yellowish). Thanks for your video, it really helps to see it for understanding the process!
Im making a 2 part mold of a sub woofer enclosure custom fit for a specific model of car. I only use woven cloths on flat straight parts and sometimes when vacuum bagging parts. Cloths have a minimal strength(to weight) advantage and often can just be compensated by adding another layer or two of chopped strand matte. p.s. and if you cut your cloth into little square you are scraping your strength advantage anyway, it is only stronger because it has unbroken strands...
Thats a very wide spread question. Make a plug how ever you can to get the original shape. Because your just using it to make the mould it can be made from anything, like solid polyurethane foam. Wood, metal, mortar, plaster etc
depends how it attaches to the bike. Expanding foam ontop of a mold of the mounting points or something along those lines. Its easier to modify the stock one.
Very interesting,I wax polish 7 times,if the finish is unimportant I wipe on PVA with a cloth,1 layer,if I'm after a good finish on the mould/part I use just wax.I always brush the gel on,saves putting it all over the workshop.Phil
I have another question..hope I'm not being a pest.
does it bother the gel coat being applied over wax?
I do a little painting and wax etc is a huge problem. I was wondering if the gel coat runs off the surface and leaves fish eyes or bare spots on it's surface.
so far I've tested putting resin over a waxed surface and the wax is preventing the resin from staying where I want it. like how paint does.
try UScomposites or TAP plastics, google them. Locally, try looking for a marine supply store... or a hardware store with a marine department. Yellowpages is your friend.
You know what I still don't get: Lets say I have a bowl. I want to make a sphere that will fit perfectly in that bowl.. How do I make a mold of that? And then when I go to cover the mold in fiber, won't the end piece be the same size as the bowl and therefor not fit?
nightpwner 1 month ago
know of a good place to buy fiberglass supplies? aka...cheap?
theycallmeGIORGIO 2 months ago
No jobs. Fodas
mannysoares 4 months ago
No jobs. Fodas
mannysoares 4 months ago
Absolutely brilliant video! Extremely informative. Great job.
MrOlorin60 5 months ago
great ...thanks :D
ricspeed1971 6 months ago
@Ryanty12 PVA is a secondary release agent I use only when making the mold of the plug. It is an insurance policy for release xD Gelcoat give a tough sandable, polishable surface that will resist 100's of parts from a single mold. If all you want if to make a a few parts max, then gelcoat is not needed, but you will notice mold deterioration after every part from it you make. It also gives a uniformed surface to see imperfections.
punk28186 6 months ago
this is great but how did u make or where did you buy the white inside mold/cast?
joshebra 8 months ago
When you start putting the fiberglass resin and glass cloth on do you have to do it all before the resin cures? Or can you let it dry and harden and just mix up another batch and go right over the top? I see most resins only have a 10 minute window or so I don't really understand how exactly you are timing it. Also on your other video it looked like you put the resin on and it dried before you put the fiberglass over it?
thegreatestmoo 10 months ago
I want to see a step by step video on Carbon Fiber Layup on a curvy part
razuuk004 11 months ago
This is brilliant mate. Thanks for putting it up. Clears a few things up for me.
A lot of blokes are telling me to use epoxy resin instead of poly resin for shrinkage reasons. I can understand this with female plugs, but on male plugs that are solid enough wouldn't this mean a tighter mold?
Also, could I spray the PVA with the 3mm tip gun? I've got the same gun as you that you use for the gellcoat. Or maybe those pressure spray bottles at Super Cheap Auto?
tmotten 11 months ago
Is the PVA a release (?) agent? What does it do? If its a release agen then why waxing the surfice?
Thanx from a noob :)
AntonyTrickrider 1 year ago
how do you make the inside cast?
xzhd1028 1 year ago
How stiff was the first flat piece you made? I've never done this before, and I'd like to make a small RC boat. So I'm trying to determine how thick to make it.
gizmoguyar 1 year ago
mold making is a bitch i remember me and my old boss made a dome or semi sphere measurering 2.6 in diameter with a 1.3 meter hight. making the mold was an asshole of a job.you couldn't use an orbital/belt sander either cause you get flat spots so it was all done by hand. one of my last jobs before he went broke lol
goodger777 1 year ago
thanks again, i wonder if you build your own roller, cause it seems home made.
boda0925 1 year ago
some questions:
epoxy or polyester resin?
what do you use to clean up your spray gun, how many have you ruined?
how long does the pva take to dry normally?
do you through out the paint brushes?
how much time are these 2 films compressed from?
all up how much does it cost?
alexandersydney 1 year ago
Hey man, nice tutorial! I'm trying to get into this myself, just starting out. I was wondering, what is that metallic roller called? I went to a hardware store and couldn't find one, and the guy didn't know what I was talking about when I tried to describe it to him. Where can I find one?? Thanks for sharing the video!
CuzIamAzn 1 year ago
freaking great tutorial, maybe a commentary voice over would have made the video even better. thanks for sharing.
averagemale2000 1 year ago
really very good video indeed, thanx for the effort
IstOne1989 1 year ago
do not understand why gelcoat for a mold.
learning41230 1 year ago
what is the gelcoat and pva for?
ILIKETOKILLSQUIRREL 1 year ago
waaay too much unessessary work; just wax original good and fiberglass it voila! 1/100 th the time/energy/money wasted
SounzNice 1 year ago
@SounzNice then cut along the rim?
DanFrederiksen 1 year ago
@DanFrederiksen cut enough to slide the mold out
SounzNice 1 year ago
@SounzNice slide? this isn't a rubber mold
DanFrederiksen 1 year ago
@DanFrederiksen duh! If a mold doesn't easily pop out trim the CAST or cut it in half and add a layer of fiberglass around both sides. simple and efficient
SounzNice 1 year ago
Why do you have the use that PVA layer? Wouldn't a couple of layers of wax also do the job?
JustWonderingHowToDo 1 year ago
Hi - I've heard that you can also use vinegar to dissolve the fiberglass to take it off your skin. Is this a final product or a mold for making parts - if it's the final, I don't suppose it matters if it's a just a bit larger than the original. Thanks for this video!
artistpw 1 year ago
Yes I agree, and excellent video both parts 1 & 2 I learned a ton in an accelerated time.
Thank you so much for taking the time and effort.
homeonthegrand 1 year ago
will i have to put some sort of releasing agent on the clay? before i apply the PVA??
cr1tterp0wer 1 year ago
Excellent Video!!!
Thanks for taking the time to put this up!
I'm planning a gas tank and seat-tail for a vintage road race bike I'm building. Any suggestions for fuel safe resin?
Thanks!
LesterRienhart 1 year ago 2
@LesterRienhart Thanks for comment. An epoxy base resin will stand up to fuels.
punk28186 1 year ago 4
Excellent instructional videos. I am working on hydrofoils for kitesurfing and windsurfing, and this is going to help a lot.
SaulOhio 1 year ago
amazing vids!!! thankyou
ausdublin 1 year ago
how long do you have before your pva "goes off" as in if i sprayed it one night and started the gelcoat the next afternoon, how long do i have before i would have to wipe the pva off and start again? cheers
LetsGoYouTubing 1 year ago
sorry to bother again but where would i be able to get these supplies (pva, gelcoat, and non hardening clay in blocks)? thanks :)
isanchez20 1 year ago
this is a great video, finally someone went into great detail to explain the process. i'm a newbie at this kinda stuff but i made a samus helmet a while back and i always wanted to make a replica of it but i just didn't know how. i'm going to use this method unless there is a better one you might wanna mention to me? look at my helmet and let me know if this would be the best way of making a replica of it, thanks a lot!! I'd really really appreciate some feedback!!
isanchez20 1 year ago
AWSOME job with the step by step you should be proud *like*
mic38071 1 year ago
how man how would i go about fibre glassing a hole bonnet? do i use the original bonnet as a mold and wat do i needa do cheers i live in NZ so any products etc would be great :D
unclejaymee 1 year ago
@unclejaymee To do it properly you will need to make tooling (negative mold) from the stock bonnet. Study up of two part mold flanging, use clay/plastercene to fill all the holes and gaps on the underside. Aluminum tape works great too and is faster. Tap/drill steel plates is what I used for my hinge reconnection, plates go inbetween the halves and I made a steel jig for perfect spacing. I recomend FGI products, Im pretty sure they have NZ stores, google it.
punk28186 1 year ago
hey i wanna make a whole entire fiberglass hood for my thunderbird..
can i use the stock hood as a mold??
and just add the scoop and then put the fiberglass on top??
will it work??
DYNO323 1 year ago
couple questions: what brands do you use and where do you get them? gelcoat, resin, clay, PVA
Munky332 1 year ago
@Munky332 I live in Australia and get my stuff from FGI in Sydney. I cant recommend anything for the US, just that you should find a proper fiberglassing/marine supply company/distributor and not bye from a department store like walmart.
punk28186 1 year ago
hey man, nice video! I am working on a CF quarter panel for our race car and wasn't sure about flanging as the mould needs to be 3 pieces. It seems that clay is the answer for my 'flange issues' :) I'll give this a shot very soon. Thanks again!
avantims 1 year ago
@avantims For car paneling I would try and do it the flexi flanging method, with clay to fill gaps specially with CF. But if you cant do it this way then clay will work too.
punk28186 1 year ago
@frithwks bah Youtube politics, you can never win eh. The answer to your question is No.
punk28186 1 year ago
@frithwks lol, PVA Glue is a completely different (and opposite) product. PVA is the base that both of them use, but PVA release agent is not an adhesive, it will create that film like PVA glue does, but for the purpose of release. Do not use PVA glue for anything fiberglass.
punk28186 1 year ago
Where do you buy the large container of PVA? The only way I'm able to find it is in spray can and its expensive that way. Is there a way to find it locally or is online the only place to find PVA?
jonwhunt 1 year ago
@jonwhunt You should be able to find PVA locally, use your yellow pages directory, lookup fiberglass supplies or marine supplies. Marine Hardware also.
punk28186 1 year ago
Congrats, you have tallent!
I wanna try to build a sand blasting cabinet and i want to use fiber glass. What do you think? It is a good ideea or..?
I have to tell you it will be for the first time in my life trying to do something from fiber glass. So?
paraplegicu 2 years ago
@paraplegicu You want to build the blaster itself out of fiberglass? I guess its possible, go for it. Perspex window?
punk28186 2 years ago
Yes, this is what i`m trying to do. I want to know, because you have work with the materials, what`s the suitable thickness? A material with 5 mm its resistant for what i`m trying to do?
Pardon my english is not the best.
Thank your for your answer!
PS: Yes, the window will be from plastic glass or plexiglass, i`m not sure which is the right word.
paraplegicu 2 years ago
I translate the word...yes, its a perspex window:))
paraplegicu 2 years ago
Fiberglass Chopped Strand Mat 1.5 oz x 50" Per Yard , this material is on ebay, can i use this? Thanks!
paraplegicu 2 years ago
@paraplegicu Yes, this is a pretty heavy grade, about double what im using in this video. Remember you can peel the layers apart to give you lighter grades.
punk28186 2 years ago
oh one more would it be better to have the plug painted cleared wet sanded buffed wased before doing or would that bee a wast of time
aarondownssr20 2 years ago
No, go to 600grit paper, any more and your wasting your time, spend the time on the mold surface.
punk28186 2 years ago
Okay.Next week i`ll start the construction of this. Maybe you can help me with the materials, with money, of course.
Thank you very much for your help!
paraplegicu 2 years ago
oh so by what you were saying is its fine to brush the resin on than come in start laying carbon add more carbon and resin the bag for 8+ hours
aarondownssr20 2 years ago
No, vacuuming is different, you saturate the carbon in resin in the mold(with a brush) and let your breather cloth soak the excess during vacuum. bag time depends on the hardener speed you purchased. Read the product and find cure time to temp, make sure you bag for entire cure.
punk28186 2 years ago
ya i work at a aricraft composite shop but we never have to make it have the "import look" b.c it all get paint afer
aarondownssr20 2 years ago
hey bro very nice video im building a carbon fiber dash off the oem one with some small mods and am complety using your video to do so.... however i have a few questions. i am making a plug so all my buds can get one as well. i am doing it front bumper style so no need for a 2 part mold. but with carbon do i need to do the gelcoat or just put resin down first? and if using a gelcoat and wanting the carbon look would i just use clear gelcoat. And yes i am doing a full vaccum bag set up.
aarondownssr20 2 years ago
You will need to use epoxy resin to get the clear look. There are surface coats avail, but I would just spray it after with some clear for UV protection. When making carbon parts make sure you spend the time and get your mold surface perfect. Make sure you get the weights perfect when mixing epoxy, it is very temperamental. I hope you have some experience before doing something this size, allot can go wrong. You will need to keep it in vacuum until the epoxy is fully cured, at least 8 hours.
punk28186 2 years ago
great 5/5 ;)
spinasss3ndria 2 years ago
nice video so good I have no questions.
chox2001 2 years ago
Spot on vid! Really helpful - Cheers for taking the time to do it, lots of crap "how to's" on here, this def isnt one of them!
nutsmutts 2 years ago
Great video! learned so much, it is a credit to you to take the time out to put such professional videos together for people such as I, who are looking for any tips to help them to improve or others just starting out. Thank you so much for your gift.
taylormkct 2 years ago
no probs bro xD
punk28186 2 years ago
Great Tutorial, Dead Helpful. BTW do you do all your fiberglassing in sandals???
HelmetGuy09 2 years ago
yeah, in summer.
punk28186 2 years ago
nice videos, great tutorial
wagner03mustang 2 years ago
REALLY good tutorial! Such people add real value to youtube community. Thanks!
halaputek 2 years ago
no probs mate, thanks.
punk28186 2 years ago
This is, I'm sure, a silly place to ask, but it's the first place I've found that seemed SORTA like the place to ask.
I've been looking around, and am aware of how to make 2 part molds (though this video helped a bit!) and I have been thinking over all the projects I'd like to be able to do with fiberglass, and a problem keeps coming up: How to I patch a seam between parts that are thin or long (such as a 2-inch diameter tube that's 4 feet long)?
soulcutterx13 2 years ago
If you can reach inside to layup the mould closed you can do it seamless. There are other methods to make seamless tubing, but it it much more complicated and I cant go into it here, no room, no time.
punk28186 2 years ago
at 5:12 it looks like a really kool hat
BenEyah 2 years ago
Thank You for advice :) Lastly wax was the only thing i have aplicated (without PVA) and it passed the exam :) Mold is shining, and there was no problem to release the mold from model :) Now I can use this mold to produce sinks :) Good Luck
No10kevin 2 years ago
good to hear. xD
punk28186 2 years ago
For NickBlackDIN: Gel coat is resist of many factors. For example water, scrathes, usually UV, some chemicals etc. ..... I have a different question. Is there a need to varnish the mold or not? .... and about my last comment - finaly I used only wax on the varnished model, without PVA. Now I wait for my gel coat to dry. I hope it woun't stick, and I will be able to release the mold :)
No10kevin 2 years ago
I cant say if the wax will do, hopefully for your sake it will. Varnish could absorb the wax if it contains certain materials typically found in some soluble based products. If it was two pak based and you waited long enough for cure then it will be ok.
punk28186 2 years ago
do you need the gel coat when making the mold?
NickBlackDIN 2 years ago
You can do it without gelcoat, but expect a rough finish on your parts and deteriorate fast, maybe 5-10 parts.
punk28186 2 years ago
Nice work. I have problem to make a mold. I want to make a sink.I have a model made from poliester resin. varnished and polished. I've put special wax on this sink. I have PVA purposed to use with paintbrush. But it doesn't work. PVA gutters, doesn't keep together. It looks like Swiss cheese while after aplication. There are holes growing. PVA layer is full of holes. Why is it like that? The surface under PVA (polished wax - 7 layers) was shiny and clean. I would be glad If you give me any clue
No10kevin 2 years ago
Its difficult to say if wax will do because I dont know anything about the varnish you used for your top layer. PVA cant be brushed on, if you cant spray you should rub it on with a cloth, very softly on the secondary layers so as not to rip the underlayers. It is difficult to do, ive only done it once before.
punk28186 2 years ago
Hi, im very new to fiberglass and i was wondering... my cars rear bumper completly tore in half (already a fiberglass bumper) is there any particular grade of fiberglass it will be strong enough to hold the two parts together without a large build up of the actual fiberglass? would the 600 be strong enough as it looks pretty tough in your vid.... any response is greatly appreciated
ifoundmytv 2 years ago
Be aware that 600 mat is is made of up 2x300 and 300 2x150 and so on, you can use 300 or 600 it all depends on how many layers to put on. It will hold it together but also consider the front smooth port being repaired which raw fiberglass cant do, also will it mount back onto your car after you glass it?
punk28186 2 years ago
Well ive worked out that i have just over 20mm to work with so that should be fine, i have also took the front part into consideration and im gonna fiberglass all of it and smooth it down with some sand paper. See if i put more hardener onto the resin and apply it extra fast would that work on toughening issues or would it just harden the fiberglass the same amount?
ifoundmytv 2 years ago
rofl. Yes same amount, mixing catalyst can be dangerous, ive seen a batch start smoking and would burn the skin to the touch. You need to measure catalyst carefully and dont go over 3%
punk28186 2 years ago
Great vids. Just wondering how long you waited between those layers of strand mat? Did the first layer need to completely cure?
Staffyishere 2 years ago
See my comment reply in my "Two Part Mold Layup" to answer your question.
punk28186 2 years ago
Hey thanks for the vids, I am among a high number of people who want to see informative, highly descriptive videos, we all thank you for posting and for sharing your useful knowledge. And nice job handling the pompus jackass know-it-all there ;)
livetofeelit 2 years ago
hehe, no probs. Plan to narrate on any more that I do. Might be a while before I do another one though.
punk28186 2 years ago
nice vid
high quality of production
EpiXl33t 2 years ago
Thanks for sharing !! Your awesome !
ddrumguy 2 years ago
Thanks to you I can make a Hylian shield out of fiberglass!
KevinJonasIsWayCool 2 years ago
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TheSWExperience 2 years ago
You guessed wrong. Nothing wrong with PVA. Get the product to serve the purpose, pretty simple really.
punk28186 2 years ago
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TheSWExperience 2 years ago
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TheSWExperience 2 years ago
Simone with that much experience would not be that narrow minded and aggressive to a product or method. I dont believe anything you just said.
punk28186 2 years ago
I don't see what there is not to believe, i'm not exactly proud of working in glorified factories making shit loads of money for other people, i might lie about being an astronaght, but not my job. All i'm saying is (and im sorry for being so aggressive) there is no need for pva. It's like a video on here by a company called fiberglast who seem to think you need loads of their own products just so they can sell them, just to make a badly done aeroplane cowl.
TheSWExperience 2 years ago
This video is for the home glasser, not the seasoned professional millionaire or whatever you think you are. PVA guarantees release in plug>mould creation, Wax will not work 100% in this situation and you should know this. Certain paints and fillers will absorb wax and will cause destruction of people work. I actually encourage people not to use PVA on part creation in other videos and comments. Plugs and fresh moulds only. Next time add a useful comment that viewers could gain off.
punk28186 2 years ago
what is the stuff you put on before, during, and after the matte??
kristenc93 2 years ago
resin?
punk28186 2 years ago
awesome vid!!!!!
simple to point and completed from step 1 to finish. thank you !!!
COBRIETE 2 years ago
Dood I love this video I finally understand the gelcoat thingy THANKS!!
kingchimeng 2 years ago
great videos, im just about to venture into making my first moulds and parts so i apologise for the n00b question but is the PVA used as a release agent instead of wax also how many layers of matting is best
maximumreign 2 years ago
PVA should be used ontop of wax and not by itself, but it will probably be ok to use by itself but one rip and its all over red rover.
Asking how much matte to use is like asking how much water to drink, it depends on how thirsty you are. For moulds I like to use 3-4 layers of 225g matting. Leaves some room for flex. But sometimes you dont want your flanges to flex up when you try to pop every part so in these situations I will thicken it up, sometimes well after.
punk28186 2 years ago
Man, what is your cutter machine , its electric or pneumatic ?
Knowthetrue 2 years ago
electric.
punk28186 2 years ago
man this thing is sick and you make it look so easy, i just want to learn so i can make a lip and a spoiler to my car since the one i want is discontinued and uber expensive, you think u can pm me with some tips? please!
QuiK075 2 years ago
You will get little tips and tricks from my videos, but I have never done a body kit before so I cant really help you more specifically other then search for other projects like it online.
punk28186 2 years ago
yeah thats cool, but im not really building a whole body kit i'm just making my rear spoiler a lil bit bigger and the front lip the same just adding volume to it, should i just tape them and then start from there? as like just adding few more inches and a lil curve to it, you know what i mean?
QuiK075 2 years ago
I would use curvy guides and templates to make foam additions(2 part polyurethane) and glass overtop. Make sure you etch up the surface to get good adhesion on abs. Finish with a high quality body filler, prime and a professional top coat with allot of sanding along the way. In a nutshell.
punk28186 2 years ago
thank you Sir
QuiK075 2 years ago
Great video, really great. Not to be nitpicky, but your respirator doesn't have a Charcoal VOC filter on it, only a particle filter. Do you still smell the resin with the respirator on? When I woodwork, I only wear the pads, but I have to wear a charcoal and particle filter at the same time to keep everything out when finishing. Might be a good idea for you too, to keep out both the glass particulates and the resin VOC's. Too many of my friends have gotten lung cancer, so I am real careful.
NGinuity 2 years ago
I do have another one organic filters. But I dont often where it. I cant small the fumes in this one. If I ever do this in industry I will def use an organic filter.
punk28186 2 years ago
Best instruction vid i´v seen. Whats the diferens betwen Gelcoat and PVA. I mean what do they doo sepratly. Does pva give it a glossy shine? and Gelcoat is a hardener?? Sorry but never done this before.
AntonyTrickrider 2 years ago
rofl. PVA is a semi permanent release agent. It provides release on plugs and molds. Gelcoat is a resin based coating like a thick paint that usually goes on first into a mould so that (reversed) it comes up as top surface on your part or mold. PVA is water based and dries naturally so does not have a hardener. Gelcoat does have hardener, same hardener as your polyester resin and at the same mixures.
punk28186 2 years ago
Thanks!! So when the mold is ready do you lacker the surfice or just leave it as it is?
AntonyTrickrider 2 years ago
Leave the glecoat as is, polish/glaze/wetsand is needed but never put another product over the gelcoat it will come off with your parts or stick your parts for good.
punk28186 2 years ago
Sorry deleted ur comment by accident. You talking about chopped strand mat and the woven cloths. As a beginner you should stick to chopped strand mat. Only use woven when you know and understand why you would use it over chopped.
punk28186 2 years ago
I have been in grp laminating for a few years and the occasional bit of molding work but I have learnt a lot more from your videos than i ever have at work. I am going to build a boat but was getting put off by the cost of molds, with your techniques I can now take a mold from a borrowed boat or a cheap old knackered one and build one and I'll also have a spare mold.
Thanks very much I really appreciate your videos and I'll make sure I upload a video of my boat mold making .
raybinns 2 years ago
Good to know :P Look forward to seeing your boat mould.
punk28186 2 years ago
great trick with the woven strands
guslingus 2 years ago
Great video! This second part will help me a lot!
rafpach87 2 years ago
Nice work on all your jobs, I have watched most of your movies. I also work for fgi in Brisbane so it's good to see you are using good product.
Nice work
tweak70 2 years ago
Hook us up with a sponsor :)
punk28186 2 years ago
it is better to use a regular paint brush than that anoying roller
exodovalle 2 years ago
The metallic roller if only used to flatten and compress the layers and remove trapped air. You still need to wet out the matt/cloth with something, either a paint brush or a paint roller. You dont need to use a metallic roller but it does help, specially on flat surfaces.
punk28186 2 years ago
I have a question. I do not know why, but when i was spraying that PVY, it was making some spider webs. I could not spray it. I put 70,80,90 PSI of pressure, but it still same shit. Any idea why?? I have a HVLP gun
superchargedM90 2 years ago
Sounds weird, never had that that happen to me. tip could be to big maybe, or a fault in the gun.
punk28186 2 years ago
What kind of gun do you have? Do you have air and water extractor on your compressor?
superchargedM90 2 years ago
im thinking you had too much hardner in it or your flow rate was to small
mrkevindshore 2 years ago
PVA doesnt have hardener. I would try at 90 psi with some water in it to thin it out, try to mist spray for far way. You might be getting confused as to where the problem is, the surface will come out running, lumpy and bubbly if you spray it like your would paint. Hold it far enough away so that only the mist hits the plug/mold.
punk28186 2 years ago
where did you learn all this??
i hope this is your job cause nobody has this much free time!!lol
jeffens1991 2 years ago
Learned off the internet and friends that do it for a profession, a boat builder and a taxidermist.
punk28186 2 years ago
what was that thing you made?
MrGachi 2 years ago
negative mould, or 'tooling'
punk28186 2 years ago
I knew i wasnt the only one that fiberglass while wearing sandles!!!
E30M20Turbo 2 years ago
Good video, not too technical, but a good survey of molds to get started
getoffmyinternet 2 years ago
Just wanted to drop you a line and say that you have inspired me to take the fiberglas plunge! Thank you! I can only find a 2.5mm tip at this time. Will that be fine for the gelcoat? Or should I research more and find a 3-3.5mm tip?
Levitan 2 years ago
Thanks. 2.5 should be fine, make sure you get spraying gelcoat which is thinned with an extra 5% styrene. (or just get some styrene) Try and avoid thinning with acetone, use only as last resort.
punk28186 2 years ago
im trying to take the plunge too, but i want to spend as little cash as possible. Im aware that you can brush on the gel coat, but is there a cheap way to apply he PVA without investing in some expensive equipement?
yellowajah 2 years ago
You can apply PVA with a cloth, dab some on the end and rub it in like wax, just got to be gentle on the following layers not to rip the under layers. Its hard to do. You cant brush it, it just pools.
punk28186 2 years ago
does this create any bad chemical smells?
popear1937 2 years ago
yes, you must wear a respirator with organic filters on it at least. When dealing with chemicals and grinding/cutting composite materials.
punk28186 2 years ago
great thanks - awesome vid btw, it has been a great help
popear1937 2 years ago
That was great, never seen nothing like that.
nykka24 2 years ago 2
Also, is FGI in Sydney?
Angelecles 3 years ago
yes, same one I use. Brookvale branch over at the northern beaches. phone no. 9939 1399 and address..14 Clearview Place
Brookvale NSW. They will also deliver to your door if needed.
punk28186 3 years ago
Hey mate, I made a plug out of polystyrene for a fibreglass airbox for my car. Anyway it didnt turn out that great and some of the polyester resin soaked through the plastic layer i used and ate away at the foam. Anyway i decided to fill the plug with bog and smooth it out and make a mould using your method. My question is i dnt have a spray gun, can i brush pva on? Is there anything else i can use to spray it. Pump pack or something? Where do you get the clay from as well? Cheers mate.
Angelecles 3 years ago
Yes most styrofoams wont hold up to polyester resins. You should seal it with something before you take a mold, like an acrylic primer spray pack... then body filler to smooth it out.
You can apply PVA with a cloth, dab some on the end and rub it in like wax, just got to be gentle on the following layers not to rip the under layers. Its hard to do. You cant brush it, it just pools. Ive never seen a PVA spray pack, but its a good idea.
FGI sells 4kg blocks of clay for around 30-40$
punk28186 3 years ago
Hey mate, one more question. If i want to make a mould of the plug, Is it better to have it fully finished? ( for example: painted and cut back with wet and dry paper).
Also have you done any work with carbon fibre? I want to attempt to vacuum bag carbon weave to my two part mould? I made a vac pump using a fridge compressor i had lying around (im a a/c mechanic by trade) Have you done anything like this before? Does the carbon struggle to take shape of a female mould?
Cheers Mate
Angelecles 3 years ago
tremendous vid man - coupla questions:
what is it that you are making here? I'm curious if you have an opinion about using the woven mesh fiberglass versus the small patchy stuff? does the woven stuff bend stiff and leave depressions when wetting out? what is the difference between the two different colored resins you use (one blue, the second one is yellowish). Thanks for your video, it really helps to see it for understanding the process!
justinkray 3 years ago
Im making a 2 part mold of a sub woofer enclosure custom fit for a specific model of car. I only use woven cloths on flat straight parts and sometimes when vacuum bagging parts. Cloths have a minimal strength(to weight) advantage and often can just be compensated by adding another layer or two of chopped strand matte. p.s. and if you cut your cloth into little square you are scraping your strength advantage anyway, it is only stronger because it has unbroken strands...
punk28186 3 years ago
how do you make the bass of the mold it self?
dzznut 3 years ago
That question doesn't make sense. You mean the plug? the item that im making a mold of?
punk28186 3 years ago
sorry about that...... In your first part video you was spraying PVA on that thing
how do you make that?
dzznut 3 years ago
Thats a very wide spread question. Make a plug how ever you can to get the original shape. Because your just using it to make the mould it can be made from anything, like solid polyurethane foam. Wood, metal, mortar, plaster etc
punk28186 3 years ago
were can i get the fiber glass from
greatscottbttfride 3 years ago
google UScomposites and tap plastics.
punk28186 3 years ago
Great video. Was excellent help. Thanks for posting.
skippr76kz 3 years ago
how did you make the orginal mould for the sub box?
hornefpv 3 years ago
Thanks for an excellent and helpful video.
How do i start making a motorcycle fairing from scratch, I mean without a plug?
disndat11 3 years ago
depends how it attaches to the bike. Expanding foam ontop of a mold of the mounting points or something along those lines. Its easier to modify the stock one.
punk28186 3 years ago
Very interesting,I wax polish 7 times,if the finish is unimportant I wipe on PVA with a cloth,1 layer,if I'm after a good finish on the mould/part I use just wax.I always brush the gel on,saves putting it all over the workshop.Phil
860240 3 years ago
I have another question..hope I'm not being a pest.
does it bother the gel coat being applied over wax?
I do a little painting and wax etc is a huge problem. I was wondering if the gel coat runs off the surface and leaves fish eyes or bare spots on it's surface.
so far I've tested putting resin over a waxed surface and the wax is preventing the resin from staying where I want it. like how paint does.
blue03r6 3 years ago
it does a bit, but at the right thickness with good spread its fine. If your spraying, it wont do that at all.
punk28186 3 years ago
where do you purchase materials from?
I want to make some motorcycle fairings.
I already have some fiberglass fairings I'm going to use for a plug. hard part over, lol.
blue03r6 3 years ago
try UScomposites or TAP plastics, google them. Locally, try looking for a marine supply store... or a hardware store with a marine department. Yellowpages is your friend.
punk28186 3 years ago