@grac7228 i would mark a 100 mm line on the flat using a 100mm block and pen, then pre bend my up-stands and where the flat over lapped the pen mark i would cut the up-stand on the flat to this point and fit a but or joint strap.
you could end up with but or joint straps 100 mm apart so the curved up-stand so your up-stand would wrap around the curve but on the flat you would have v shapes in the up-stand that would require a butt or joint strap .
Thanks. I was thinking of having a flat piece of coated metal (175mm)bent around the curve and have the end of the flat sheet/s turned up the wall and weld onto the metal say 50mm as they're non fleece, with a lead cover flashing that covers the upstand weld. What do you think?
@grac7228 yea that would work, you could even do it your self by cutting the metal on the flat to form the curv, and where the cuts are just put a 100mm joint strap over the cuts to the top of the metal, this way you could use some off the shelf once bent trim.
@griish i wrapped some un-reinforced around the pipe and welded that together, then on the flat i made the circle then cut the center hole 20 mm smaller than the pipe then warmed the center hole to form a flange.
then using the small attachment on the heat gun gently worked around the base welding the flange to the vertical wrap round.
Upon curing they will solidify, forming an initial bond. Where they differ from conventional hot melt adhesives is in their moisture-curing properties. After exposure to moisture present in the atmosphere and in many substrates, the isocyanate groups in the adhesive undergo further polymerisation reactions to give a thermo-set material, highly resistant to temperature changes, many chemicals and to mechanical stresses.
go have a chat with your supplier, pu glue is a moisture curing glue, it cures faster if there is moisture in the air, if it is a hot dry day you ca accelerate the glue using an atomiser.
the glue needs to become a milky colour ie starting to bubble before you lay on the glue and this curing process is helped by moisture.
go read up on pu adhesives before you post replies as it makes you look inexperienced by quoting things that are not true.
true, but thats only for sticking down the membrain it self, the glue you use for the insulation boards them selfs do not need water and don't need to turn a milky colur, its what they call air activated not moistier activated well thats the glue we use anyway and thats for Alolor plan and trocal, personally i think sure welds tpo system is cheap and shit, if you want a proper single ply you should use sika products i.e trocal or sarna
the glue for the boards can be laid imediatly, you should not add any water its a air activated system water will only ruin the glue and give it less stick! by the way what membraine is it which your using, it is a TPO yes??
the glue is pur, you just wait for the glue to start to foam up then drop the board on it.
you can speed the foaming process up by using an atomiser and spray a fine mist of water over the glue as the glue reacts faster to moisture.
it takes longer if it is a hot day as there is no moisture in the air, but in general by the time you run your glue out you can start laying the boards from where you started gluing.
loads of details, you have made a cracking job, well done .10
kopynd1 8 months ago
@anynickwilldofine i think you are a spammer! you type this tile-molds propaganda nearly every roofing video. please stop!
emigrantgap 10 months ago
@anynickwilldofine i think you are a spammer! you type this tile-molds propaganda nearly every roofing video. please stop!
emigrantgap 10 months ago
Hi Kempo, u ever had to do a single ply roof with a curved (internal & external) upstand wall? if so how did u finish it a the upstand?
grac7228 1 year ago
@grac7228 i would mark a 100 mm line on the flat using a 100mm block and pen, then pre bend my up-stands and where the flat over lapped the pen mark i would cut the up-stand on the flat to this point and fit a but or joint strap.
you could end up with but or joint straps 100 mm apart so the curved up-stand so your up-stand would wrap around the curve but on the flat you would have v shapes in the up-stand that would require a butt or joint strap .
kempouk 1 year ago
@kempouk
Thanks. I was thinking of having a flat piece of coated metal (175mm)bent around the curve and have the end of the flat sheet/s turned up the wall and weld onto the metal say 50mm as they're non fleece, with a lead cover flashing that covers the upstand weld. What do you think?
grac7228 1 year ago
@grac7228 yea that would work, you could even do it your self by cutting the metal on the flat to form the curv, and where the cuts are just put a 100mm joint strap over the cuts to the top of the metal, this way you could use some off the shelf once bent trim.
kempouk 1 year ago
boot*
griish 2 years ago
the flashing on the pipe 120 mins in to the video... is that a non-reinforced tpo flashing split boost? or did u stretch or two piece it
griish 2 years ago
@griish i wrapped some un-reinforced around the pipe and welded that together, then on the flat i made the circle then cut the center hole 20 mm smaller than the pipe then warmed the center hole to form a flange.
then using the small attachment on the heat gun gently worked around the base welding the flange to the vertical wrap round.
kempouk 1 year ago
@griish 2 piece
kempouk 10 months ago
yes!
kevdiv1974 2 years ago
did you do the lead work round the down pipe?
grrtiger78 3 years ago
yea
kempouk 3 years ago
anyway you made a nice job of it!
kipling192 3 years ago
thank you kipling.
kempouk 3 years ago
PUR-HM adhesives
Upon curing they will solidify, forming an initial bond. Where they differ from conventional hot melt adhesives is in their moisture-curing properties. After exposure to moisture present in the atmosphere and in many substrates, the isocyanate groups in the adhesive undergo further polymerisation reactions to give a thermo-set material, highly resistant to temperature changes, many chemicals and to mechanical stresses.
kempouk 3 years ago
go have a chat with your supplier, pu glue is a moisture curing glue, it cures faster if there is moisture in the air, if it is a hot dry day you ca accelerate the glue using an atomiser.
the glue needs to become a milky colour ie starting to bubble before you lay on the glue and this curing process is helped by moisture.
go read up on pu adhesives before you post replies as it makes you look inexperienced by quoting things that are not true.
kempouk 3 years ago
true, but thats only for sticking down the membrain it self, the glue you use for the insulation boards them selfs do not need water and don't need to turn a milky colur, its what they call air activated not moistier activated well thats the glue we use anyway and thats for Alolor plan and trocal, personally i think sure welds tpo system is cheap and shit, if you want a proper single ply you should use sika products i.e trocal or sarna
kipling192 3 years ago
the glue for the boards can be laid imediatly, you should not add any water its a air activated system water will only ruin the glue and give it less stick! by the way what membraine is it which your using, it is a TPO yes??
kipling192 3 years ago
nice roof looks like a first class job
scottyburen 3 years ago
the glue is pur, you just wait for the glue to start to foam up then drop the board on it.
you can speed the foaming process up by using an atomiser and spray a fine mist of water over the glue as the glue reacts faster to moisture.
it takes longer if it is a hot day as there is no moisture in the air, but in general by the time you run your glue out you can start laying the boards from where you started gluing.
kempouk 3 years ago
what's the glue like for the boards? do you have to wait for ages for it to dry?
grac7228 3 years ago