one guy said to heat the caliper... wouldn't that make the inner diameter shrink? unless you were able to heat it from the inside. perhaps by heating the bleeder... hmm...
Brilliant post thanks, does the heat get applied to the area around the base of the nipple to expand it around the nipple?....or are you heating the nipple itself? Many thanks.
Applying heat like that will work but it would be my last resort. Never use an open ended spanner on brake lines. In the case of the Volvo it will be a 7mm or 8mm so use a single hex ring or brake line 'c' spanner. Next, apply some anticlockwise force with the ring spanner and if needed tap it with a hammer from the top at the same time. If that doesn't work try some freeze spray directly on the bleeder nipple to shrink it a little in the caliper. Heat the caliper around the bleeder last.
@Pendu068 My aim is not to avoid rounding off the nipples, its to avoid breaking them. They're particularly thin on this model, 1/4 inch, so you put any more than a slight amount of force through them and they simply snap off. I've snapped them many times, before I worked this method out. This is the only sure fire way to get them off cleanly and first time. On the non 300s they're larger and thicker, 8mm or 10mm nipples and as such are much easier to unscrew without breaking them off.
@Pendu068 My aim is not to avoid rounding off the nipples, its to avoid breaking them. They're particularly thin on this model, 1/4 inch, so you put any more than a slight amount of force through them and they simply snap off. I've snapped them many times, before I worked this method out. This is the only sure fire way to get them off cleanly and first time. On the non 300s they're larger and thicker, 8mm or 10mm nipples and as such are much easier to unscrew without breaking them off.
The heating is useless unless you use acetylene. Also, hit what it goes through. A couple of whacks to the caliper where the screw enters, and it would have come right out.
Nicely done. I used to work in a hydraulic shop and we would use similar practices on weathered nuts and bolts. It works like a charm - Heat, Lubrication, and some mild tapping.
An open-ended spanner is a better tool for this job. You will be able to put more force on the bolthead without distorting its edges. You could also use a socket, which is the best bet. I have never had any bleednipples that I couldnt get off using these tools. Ofc, wd40 and giving the nipple and metal around a good shock with a sledgehammer and a punch also helps. Dont like using heat on brakeparts I will be reusing.
Another trick is to clean the caliper and nipple threads for corrosion.
@FuckinCrazyness yeps got some .. great stuff. blows wd away.. if you have the time ..spray pb blaster on ..and then let it sit for...how ever long .. even overnite.. then it should come right off..
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO- loved the fire tips but Is that a petro can under the car? Seriously my husband has been struggling with this on his 1993 Ford truck and will not ask for help.Your demonstration was the best out of all the videos I searched. THANKS AGAIN from America !
this is a good trick however i have always managed just fine with a socket wrench and alot of WD40 and a CRC-spray that cools the bolts. Rocking back and forth (tightening and loosing) is my preferred method.
one guy said to heat the caliper... wouldn't that make the inner diameter shrink? unless you were able to heat it from the inside. perhaps by heating the bleeder... hmm...
losipoop 1 week ago
Thanks for a brilliant posting. I used this method and it worked brilliantly, I also used it to free off flexible brake hose connections
b6mvvvvv 2 weeks ago
thsnks man
LookieLoudLou 1 month ago
Brilliant post thanks, does the heat get applied to the area around the base of the nipple to expand it around the nipple?....or are you heating the nipple itself? Many thanks.
yorkermiles 2 months ago
That guy is great!!!!
zetixpe 3 months ago in playlist Więcej filmów od użytkownika pettaw1
Applying heat like that will work but it would be my last resort. Never use an open ended spanner on brake lines. In the case of the Volvo it will be a 7mm or 8mm so use a single hex ring or brake line 'c' spanner. Next, apply some anticlockwise force with the ring spanner and if needed tap it with a hammer from the top at the same time. If that doesn't work try some freeze spray directly on the bleeder nipple to shrink it a little in the caliper. Heat the caliper around the bleeder last.
Pendu068 5 months ago
@Pendu068 My aim is not to avoid rounding off the nipples, its to avoid breaking them. They're particularly thin on this model, 1/4 inch, so you put any more than a slight amount of force through them and they simply snap off. I've snapped them many times, before I worked this method out. This is the only sure fire way to get them off cleanly and first time. On the non 300s they're larger and thicker, 8mm or 10mm nipples and as such are much easier to unscrew without breaking them off.
pettaw1 5 months ago
@Pendu068 My aim is not to avoid rounding off the nipples, its to avoid breaking them. They're particularly thin on this model, 1/4 inch, so you put any more than a slight amount of force through them and they simply snap off. I've snapped them many times, before I worked this method out. This is the only sure fire way to get them off cleanly and first time. On the non 300s they're larger and thicker, 8mm or 10mm nipples and as such are much easier to unscrew without breaking them off.
pettaw1 5 months ago
Comment removed
Pendu068 5 months ago
I use a good 6 point socket on bleeder screws
wafrederick 6 months ago
how long did that take? i saw an edit at the end
jullavanich 6 months ago
The heating is useless unless you use acetylene. Also, hit what it goes through. A couple of whacks to the caliper where the screw enters, and it would have come right out.
sweetlikeADAM 9 months ago
Thanks man! I will try that.
michael001437 10 months ago
Nicely done. I used to work in a hydraulic shop and we would use similar practices on weathered nuts and bolts. It works like a charm - Heat, Lubrication, and some mild tapping.
CLUTCHNSHIFT 1 year ago
An open-ended spanner is a better tool for this job. You will be able to put more force on the bolthead without distorting its edges. You could also use a socket, which is the best bet. I have never had any bleednipples that I couldnt get off using these tools. Ofc, wd40 and giving the nipple and metal around a good shock with a sledgehammer and a punch also helps. Dont like using heat on brakeparts I will be reusing.
Another trick is to clean the caliper and nipple threads for corrosion.
MrGrisepikk 1 year ago
PB Blaster that beotch
FuckinCrazyness 1 year ago
@FuckinCrazyness yeps got some .. great stuff. blows wd away.. if you have the time ..spray pb blaster on ..and then let it sit for...how ever long .. even overnite.. then it should come right off..
fngonuts 9 months ago
Thank You,
I tried your method on my chrysler voyager today and it worked perfectly. You saved me having to buy a new set of calipers. Emil in Vienna Austria
emilkvicktube 1 year ago
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO- loved the fire tips but Is that a petro can under the car? Seriously my husband has been struggling with this on his 1993 Ford truck and will not ask for help.Your demonstration was the best out of all the videos I searched. THANKS AGAIN from America !
okydokey4126 1 year ago
this is a good trick however i have always managed just fine with a socket wrench and alot of WD40 and a CRC-spray that cools the bolts. Rocking back and forth (tightening and loosing) is my preferred method.
WeXio 2 years ago
Nice!
I wish I had watched this before breaking one of the little buggers off.
I normally just buy new calipers or swap them out for the warentee when they won't budge.
Thank you.
deadman12078 2 years ago
nice tip
also you might want to hit them with wd40 the night before you do the job if you aren't working in a shop and there is no hurry
HeroOrAZero 2 years ago