Shopken. Thanks for this video. It is an excellent walkthrough and I was able to replace my heater core in about 6 hours.
TIP: cut the old core pipes behind the dash to remove the old core, then pull the hoses forward under the hood and remove the old header core pipe cut pieces. It makes it much easier.
@shopken1 how long does this job usually take? i mean i know it varies on experience but i've torn down n put back s10 dashs no problem but idk about fords they seem sensitive lol
@narckison1 - You will need to buy a 5/8 male to male heater hose connector from an auto parts store (a flush "T" will also work) Cut the hoses about 4" from the heater hose connectors and loop the lines from the engine together. Do not block off the heater core lines.
@shopken1 would that be the same procedure for a 98 town car? A mechanic did this easy fix for an expedition for me once, and now the town car is giving me trouble. I believe I'm getting antifreeze mist on the interior of my windshield (very filmy and oily, hard to clean it, car overheats sometimes, etc.).
i need to do change heater is leaking in my f150 98 v6 but where are you located i am i los angeles california if you know sombody can do please let me know for my is to hard to do i cant to do thank you and great video
i need to do change in my f150 98 v6 but where are you located i am i los angeles california if you know sombody can do please let me know for my is to hard to do i cant to do thank you and great video
Good video. I worked for ford for over 22 yrs. And heater cores are no joke on some fords. Continentals you have to remove the black heater box assembly. Now that's a pain in the ass job!! Good video. that's a reason why I'm not working for ford anymore. Lol. The shit is getting to hard for my old ass. :)
Nice video! I liked the still frame presentation with the subtitling. Very easy to follow, informative and much less distracting than a hand held video camera. Thanks!
thanks for the video man, its because of this video that i figured out why my blower wasn't working after the replacement of my heater core, my dumb butt forgot to plug the conection back in under the passenger side of the dash. thanks a ton!!
With a dremel tool, you do not need to pull the dash at all. I have a 1998 expedition and I replaced mine with just cutting through the box unit and all you need is some foil tape to patch it back up.
@fordwindsor351 - The job is not "too bad" as presented. No need to damage the case. I have repaired this type of "Repair" in the past (most often found on Taurus heater cases. Vibration and flex creates stresses on the plastic case and it can distort over time without the strength of the lids enclosure as engineered. Binding of the blend door, noises and leaks, cracking of the case- can be expected if the case is damaged/modified. Best to just do the job right.
Great Job on the video. I never would have found many of the fasteners. Job took me approxamatly 10 hours to preform. I am sure it can be done quicker as I am not a mechanic.
Job saved me hundreds of dollors. The only hang up was disconnecting the water lines. Have patience.
07SILVERC6- 1) Rotate fittings back and forth until they move easily (oring corrosion stuck) 2) While rotating, push fittings onto the core farther (past water pressure has pushed them against the stop) 3) Push in on the release tabs and pull the fitting off. Another method is to gently pry the holding wedges inside the windows out and away from the core tube raised bib and pull off. Fittings; if destroyed are available at a parts store. If tough to find look in a Doorman catalog
Thank you. The dash moves just enough out of the way to get to the heater core box. Now the hoses need to come off and im not sure how to or how to reach them. Any ideas?
Great video. Everything went great up until i went to pull the dash forward. I did not see anything about the driver side power cables. It seems to be holding the dash in and now i'm stuck. The passenger side was easy but i'm not sure how to finish the job. Does anybody out there have any suggestions?
@07SILVERC6 - No need to remove any electrical on the drivers side- the dash is lowered down on the drivers side and tilted, not removed. Make sure you are not hanging up on the shift cable. A few folks have broken the cable while trying to lift the dash off of the drivers side. It might help to shift to low range to move the cable assembly.
God this looks like a beast, I lost mine yesterday, bypased for now. Gonna tackle this in Oct or so when it cools off a bit. Any idea how much heat jsut the rear heater will put out?
Yo! Shopken1, Thank you man for this video. It helped me so much. Dammm what a pain in the A**S it is replacing the heater core but its well worth it, you save a lot of money by replacing it your self. Again thanks man! Two Thumbs Up!
good video.Being a ford tech for over 20 yrs you did an excellent job on a pain in the ass heater core.At least you didnt have to remove the entire heater box assembly as some fords/lincoln/mercurys need to ..And i no you cut and scratched up your hand on that job the dash metal is very sharp in some places..
i just changed the heater core on my 2001 Ford F-150 XLT, it took me 9 hours... i hate my life... NINE HOURSSSSSSS............ F***EN PEICE OF S**T.... anyways, great video, helped a lot...
shopken1 thanks alot for everything you have done for me you have been alot of help the control panel from hot to cold was bad i replaced it and put blind door back in everything is heating up just fine now thanks for everything god bless
@shopken1 hey thanks for the video i just had a question, what year is your truck? i have a 2000 and dont think its the same year because on my i was told id have to recover in a/c system and take of a line. thanks!
@ethandiaz- Skill@repair@business-area-rate-warranty/etc.$500-$1800?-Cause of failure needs determined/remedy 1st. Shops need 40/50 parts/labor ratio & liability/factored.Heater cores=low profit-little parts sale/high risk/failing again at shops$. WHY/again? may cost MANY hours & cores. Shops refuse core jobs/raise rate/cover loss. Most shops need $145+ per shop man hr to get 2% net!natl/avg Parts+laborXhrs sold/per man/per day-$100sold=$2net profit-pre tax to survive! Tough business.
@marthazuritaposadas - The dash does not need removed entirely as the video shows. It is lifted and tilted out of the way to allow access to the heater case. It would take Houdini or a butcher to get it in and out any other way than to free the suitcase.
shopken1!!!!!!!!! i put cardboard in front of the radiator to see if no air coming in with the warmer temp if it would blow hot and it made a diffence so im going to flush out the radiator mabe that will work thanks for your help and if you have anything else let me know..........
@TheClint32 - You said both hoses were hot- that means circulation is ok and eng. temp ok. If the blend door is removed you will only get cold air! Put the door back in and remove the door actuator at the bottom of the blend door pivot(sets on the outside and bottom of the heater suitcase and can be removed without pulling dash/suitcase. Move the door with fingers,does it hit both sides of the stops? plug the blend door acutuator in and turn on key- cycle heat from warm to cold- does it move?
shopken1 i had pulled the blind door all the way out its still out now i put the dash back allready i think whats going on is the radiator may be stoped up because when i pull the drain plug out no water comes out and the top of the radiator is hot but not the bottom so much im going to run a garden hose to it and see if i can clwan it out the core is getting water to it both hoses are hot going in i dont think the water is flowing fast enough to keep the core hot
BOTH HOSES GOING INTO HEATER HOSE ARE HOT SO I DONT UNDERSTAND WHY ITS NOT BLOWING HOT AIR INSTEAD OF WARM PLEASE READ EVERYTHING I HAVE POSTED AND SEE IF ANY ONE CAN TELL ME SOMETHING ELSE TO DO TO HELP OUT IM ALL EARS...............
@TheClint32 - The core has full water circulation at all times. Heat control is a matter of air bypass or forced blowthrough the core. If the door does not "Seal" you cannot generate full heat or cold air in the summer. With the blend motor removed.. You should be able to rock the door back and forth with your fingertips. A firm clunk sound should be heard in each direction- telling you that the door is seated against its foam stops. If the door is hard to move it will wreck the motor.
DOES THE BLIND DOOR HAVE TO BE IN AND OPEN ALL THE WAY FOR THE HEAT TO WORK RIGHT IS THAT WHY ITS BLOWING WARM INSTEAD OF HOT I HAVE RACKED MY BRAIN HERE TRYING TO FIX THIS AND NOTHING IS WORKING I EVEN PUT A GARDEN HOSE TO HEATER HOSE TO FLUSH OUT THINKING IT MAY HAVE CLOGED UP FROM OLD FLUID IM NOT SURE ABOUT THIS ITS ABOUT TO KILL ME
@TheClint32 - The "Blend door" must move free in both directions.(doors warp) The blend door motor (at the bottom of the heater case with the door pivot going into it) must cycle in both directions to the stops. Unbolt the motor from the door pivot (without dash removal) and set it on the floor plugged in. Key on- cycle the heat knob in both directions. Does it move? Is it smooth? If you have no motion- it most likely is a bad motor or drive (common). Infrequently its in the heater control.
I JUST REPLACED THE HEATER CORE IN MY 1998 FORD EXPEDITION AND ITS BLOWING WARM NOT NOT! SO I ALSO CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT STILL WARM SO I TOOK DASH BACK OUT AGAIN AND MADE SURE THE BLIND DOOR WASNT CLOSED AND FOUND OUT MOTOR WASNT WOKING RIGHT AND DIDNT OPEN DOOR ALL THE WAY! ...... SO I TOOK THE BLIND DOOR ALL THE WAY OFF AND PUT BACK THE DASH THINKING I HAVE FIXED IT PUT DASH BACK IN AND ITS STILL WARM I DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHATS GOING ON HERE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@shopken1- I have done all of the steps that have been pointed out in the video, and I still can not lower the steering column. Is there an alternate method to lowering it? And if I can not lower the steering column, should I still be able to remove the dash, if all of the proper screw and bolts have been removed?
@blackskin305 - Make sure you are not caught on the shifter leaver. Turn the key in the run position and shift into low gear. If it still does not drop- you have not seen a fastner after removal of the stiffner frame. It will lower to the seat. Dash cannot be removed without dropping the column.
Im about to attempt this job o my 2000 f-150.....About how long of a process and do u risk breaking alot of parts just to do it....would it be better to bypass?
@fordtuff150 - What is your skill & care level? This is what you need to ask yourself. Its always better and safer to have a working defroster and heater! With skill; 6hrs? Some have reported it taking them 2 days. (not familiar/skilled with mechanical repair)
I would also like to say thanks. I just finished replacing the core in my 2000 Expedition. Your video was very helpful!! Would've been much more difficult if I had to guess what fasteners to remove.
The removal tool can be purchased from an auto-parts store. It is little more than a groove cut in a piece of steel that slips over the fitting like a thin wrench. I have one and almost never use it on the Ford trucks. On an Aerospace it is absolutely needed as you cannot even reach the fittings with your hands. You can buy the fittings that fit onto the heater core lines from a parts store. Look in a Doorman catalog at a parts store if they cannot find them.
shopken1, this was the best thing ive ever seen or done for that matter. thanks alot and i have a ? how do i get the lines off of the heater core? i dont have the tool but you said i dont need it, i just cant figure out how to push those tabs in. maybe you have a better plan? thanks again
1) Rotate fittings back and forth until they move easily (corrosion stuck) 2) While rotating, push fittings onto the core farther (water pressure pushed them against the stop) 3) Push in on the release tabs and pull the fitting off. Another method is to gently pry the holding wedges inside the windows out and away from the core tube raised bib and pull off. Fittings if destroyed are available at a parts store. If tough to find look in a Doorman catalog (theshopgp is my alternate account)
This was the best video I've ever seen on step by step instructions, it was the only reason I attempted this job. Great video, but when I got everything put back together it's still blowing cold air? Any thoughts on what to do? Thanks again!
@MrRick1079 - If both hoses are hot comming and going out of the heater core, the water is circulating. Suspect a blend door travel or blend motor issue(frame5;43) The blend door motors fail often. It can be changed without dash removal. 3 screws secure it to the bottom of the case. Remove it and plug it in.. key on, see if it moves full range when the temp knob is cycled from hot to cold. Make sure the blend door moves easily; you should hear it hit its resting stops when open and closed.
thanks for all your help....but i have another problem...i changed the heater core,im getting heat in the front and floor but the rear heat is still ice cold,do you have ideas on this..
@carpetlayer718 - Are both lines hot into and out of the rear core? If not, the core is likely restricted. The temp control door & actuation at the rear unit will need tested for range of motion if the lines are hot.
@carpetlayer718 - Unlock the column with the key and move the shifter into 1st. Does it drop now? (others have broken the shift cable I assume at this step) I dont remember if the column used additonal fastners under the support bar. When released it should drop without force.
When i had lowered the steering wheel, the shift cable broke that goes to transmision. It was somthing i did and now im replacing the cable. I really apreciate your video and your help! I cant thank you enough! The heater core i replaced was for a single mother of two children who cant pay 800.00 to have it replaced. So again thank you very much!
@shopken1 no crank at all starter doesent even make a sound. the tail lights came on when i hucked the batterie back up. all the dash lights, windows and all electrical works but when you turn key nothing happens. almost like a theft protection.
@davelsmede - 1) Do you have an aftermarket alarm system? Tail lamps on when batt. was connected?.. 2) Verify that the shift cable is moving the transmission completely into park position (or neutral) the cranking circuit needs either position to allow cranking.. 3) Ignition switch is on the lower column and remote activated with a rod, Did you bend it or move the switch position?,, 5) If no to the above you need a wiring schematic to test from starting relay pins/starter circuits.
Outstanding resource, if you've never done this job before! I had my laptop beside me in the expedition through the entire process. It took me a little longer; 10 hours. Had a hell of a time getting the old heater core and blend door out. Also, had tough time getting old hoses off and new hoses on....not a lot of room to get your hands in there to tighten hose clamps! Everything else was like clock work......I thank you very much!!!! I would've never even tried this without your help.
@ shopken1 - Man I don't know how to thank you other than just say, Thank you VERY much for having this on the web. Like the other fella, seeing this video saved me close to $1000.00. It is Awesome!!! My son and I completed this job without a hitch. Again, Thank you. I have told the people at the parts house where to find this and they were amazed. Rock on!
@psychorn69 - This is how all repair info should be done in a modern age... Not the stone club manual methods provided. Mechanics have it tough and must pioneer methods to survive and provide quality work for the customers that have put their trust in them... without much help I might add. See the video I have posted on front brake service done in a professional manor for more good info.
This is an awesome video, thank you for putting this up. This is probably going to save me about $950. I just have one question, Is it safe to bypass the heater core until I have the time to replace it? And if so, how long could I do that for?
@gmg2937 - As long as you do not block off the lines, but connect them together so that the coolant circulates, it can be bypassed indefinitely with no harm to the vehicle.
I found this video to be perfectly accurate. I was a huge help and because of this I was able to do this job four hours. Thanks so much for posting this!!
@aston1072 - If the smell is in the cab... the only cause is a bad core. Sometimes a pinhole leak starts and when under pressure it creates a "Mist" of coolant into the heaterbox airstream. It may only occur when pressure and volume are high, like cruise conditions. You may not have enough leakage at this point to accumulate in the box and run out the A/C drain at the bottom of the passenger side firewall drain (its worth a look) Coolant is very unhealthy to breathe.
I'm gathering info on how to do this on a 1999 F-150, 4.6L 4WD. According to a "Haynes Repair Manual" it says that the AC system needs to be emptied first. Other step by step instructions do not include this, including your video. Your thoughts please.
@ATFD41 - Discharging the A/C is not required as the core can be changed with the "Suitcase" in the truck. You can remove the top off of the unit (a few tough access screws in the rear of the case) and replace the heater core without disturbing the A/C evaporator. Removal of the entire unit is a lot more work and not needed or recommended.
@shopken1 Thanks for the info. My digital odometer will flash on/off everytime I drive, with it off most of the time. While I have the dash apart is this something I can easily fix?
@ATFD41 - Sounds like an internal fault in the odo or an interuption of a ground or power. No advantage to working on it while the dash is moved as the instrument cluster does not need to be removed. You are better off doing it as a seperate proceedure IMO. Verify speed PID w/scanner. Isolate the ground and power feed from a schematic, test the circuit with a Histograph DVOM. Monitor voltages while symptom is occuring to isolate. Speed sensors are analog and the cluster is digital/converted.
@ATFD41 - 1st--Check for internal codes with the engine/trans control, ABS and or the digital ratio conversion systems as some odo faults are system failures that are monitored and the odo could be following a fault pattern.
what if the heat needle goes up and down an i smell coolent. when im on the freeway itll stay in the middle but when i get on stop an go traffic itll be nearly touching the warning spot of the temp. how will it affect my car.
@Orlevikings11 ~ Verify that it is actually getting hot or if the gauge is not accurate. The pcm temp. is separate. Have someone drive the car & monitor the pcm ECT pid with a scanner. A bad T-stat can cause coolant temp cycles/sticking but so can very low water or a bad head-gasket seal. Radiator restrictions tend to allow the temp to climb steady but not drop or overheat in poor airflow (idle in traffic) or load. Check fanclutch. Overheats; fix ASAP= engine death
@OGJoel2009 - Only if; 1) The system is loosing coolant.. no amount of loss is acceptable. Low coolant levels, even slight ones create air pockets inside the heads and manifold allowing engine damaging hot spots/poor heat distribution. 2) If the heater core lines are blocked off or plugged. If bypassed the coolant lines must be placed together to allow the coolant to circulate. The coolant flow is never restricted with this system to control heater output.
Ok, pretty much used this video as a guide. I would say it was about 98% accurate. Took me about 14 hours with various trips to the auto parts store. Disconecting the Heater hoses was a real pain even with the tool from autozone. Also, the dash sure doesn't just slip right out! LOL Anyway, i think if i had to do it again I could go start to finish in about 7 hours. Thanks for the great video. Saved me 7-800 bux I'm sure. It was not fun for sure. LOL
@MARCBUSH3271 - I feel your pain! Try a heater core on a 2000-or newer Jeep full sized if you want to know suffering... The Taurus was also a hummer, but after doing 10 or so of them you get it down...
Ok, pretty much used this video as a guide. I would say it was about 98% accurate. Took me about 14 hours with various trips to the auto parts store. Disconecting the Heater hoses was a real pain even with the tool from autozone. Also, the dash sure doesn't just slip right out! LOL Anyway, i think if i had to do it again I could go start to finish in about 7 hours. Thanks for the great video. Saved me 7-800 bux I'm sure. It was not fun for sure. LOL
ok thanks. can i flush the system out just by removing the thermostat and upper radiator hose and using a garden hose to flush it out? or should I take it in and have it done? as for the engine grounds where can I locate those?
@ZR1Zoomer - You need to drain and fill the system with water and a flushing agent. Let it run through several thermostat cycles and drain out. Repeat until clean. Finish with the water hose to get all the soap out. Make sure to pull block drains or your wasting your time. (most shops do poor coolant flushes/waste of money) I use a homemade tool that injects compressed air with the water. turbulent and effective. Follow the ground cables to the engine for location.
Hey it's me again. About 10 months ago I replaced my heater core using this vid...and now as of yesterday I'm getting that nasty smell again through the vents and the car is starting to leak antifreeze from under the passenger side of the vehicle. I know it's my heater core again, but any guesses as to why it went bad again so soon? at least I can replace my blend door this time too though, but still it's going to be a pain to have to do this again. any tips so that I wont have to do this again?
@ZR1Zoomer - @ZR1Zoomer - Many causes; bad core, electrolosis from coolant contamination, cavitation, suspended particle blasting, bad engine ground, crankshaft crack/bearing issue (monitor voltage in coolant when hot/under load; .2-3v big trouble) Recommend; 1) OEM heater core- 2) Drain out block and water/air flush every component- 3) Run a flush agent or tsp and water/flush out again 4) 50% coolant/distilled water- 5) Check engine grounds 6) Add ground strap to heater core (voltage prob)
@airsoftplayer423 I had the same problem with my f-150. You should check your vaccum lines. I just needed to replace a vaccum hose on mine because it was pinching, restricting air flow so it could not transition. The hose for me was like 2 bucks.
@airsoftplayer423 - Best practice is to check all of them in the engine compartment and dash. Some automotive systems will use 3 or more fuses in seemingly unrelated systems to power controls of different types. Use a test lamp that is grounded and check for power at both tabs protruding out of the fuse top with the key "on"
@airsoftplayer423 - Test all fuses first, then the mode motor. (you will most likely need a book like a Climer or Haynes & a schematic to chase it out) Verify that it makes any noise or attempt to move when the mode control knob is cycled from defrost to floor. If the motor tries to move, suspect something in the case blocking the mode motor (like a ball point pen down the defroster duct) otherwise- pin test from the control head to find it. (Sorry, a fuse is the only potential easy fix)
My problem is that the actuator is bad or the blend door is stuck. I had a friend replace my heater core a few months ago but now I have no air. I took it to ford and thats what they told me. However my so called friend does not want to do work again without getting paid again. I find it to be unfair. So I'm atempting it on my own. Is there an easier way to get to the actuator without removing everything?
@josesant10 -- I would not do it without pay either. Dont blame the friend for that.. they already helped out once. Shops can charge 650 to 1000 bucks to do this job.
The actuator can be removed without full heater case removal but its not easy to do. Once fasteners are removed (rear ones pretty tight quarters) I dont remember if the case needs lifted or not (I work on hundreds of models and my mind can mix them together)
I would not recommend this job if your not familiar with repair.
@josesant10 -- I would not do it without pay either. Dont blame the friend for that.. they already helped out once. Shops can charge 650 to 1000 bucks to do this job.
The actuator can be removed without full heater case removal but its not easy to do. Once fasteners are removed (rear ones pretty tight quarters) I dont remember if the case needs lifted or not (I work on hundreds of models and my mind can mix them together)
I would not recommend this job if your not familiar with repair.
shopken1 this is my first time trying to do this..Iviewed the video but i didn't see anywhere for me to remove radio or the heater/air control panel. There is no need to removed these parts?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I am a helicopter mechanic and used to detailed processes and instructions, and you have done a great job. Your video saved me considerable time and money; thank you.
Thank you soooo much! Great complete set of instructions. Saved me a lot of time and money. I would have never been able to find the exact screws and bolts to remove and in what order on my own. Completed in just an afternoon with no problems. Everything working great now with no leaks. Thank You again!
Nice Video ShopKen1. I think Haynes and Chilton should hire you to do their illustrations. I swear by my Mitchell catelogs, as they are very decent. Whats a shocker to me though, is that even the factory shop shop manual volumes are horribly put together. They make you bounce around from chapter to chapter for these types of jobs. I'm sure you are pretty use to that though. It appears you know your stuff. I like how you left out any blood or swear words too. That's not an easy job.
@mine1username -- Check out a video I have called Avalon dash pull. Now THATS a tough dash to pull! It was not intended for removal for heater core/common failure jobs.
hey shopken1 you sound very knowledgeable, your video will be very helpful in removing my heater core, before starting the dash removal, is there anything i should do to verify that the core is the problem? i have a fish smell but only when the AC is on not when the heater is on. the heater is luke warm at best, and it takes awhile to get that way. i felt the hose by the firewall in the engine compartment and it feels hot, so i do not think the thermostat is the problem. any help will be useful.
@CAVZfan09 - The smell could be fungus growing on the A/C evaporator core. Heat control is most likely the blend door motor at the bottom of the door If both hoses from the core are hot. 3:11 on the video shows the motor, the small black box below the pointing finger. Hold your hand on the unit while cycling the temp knob to verify that it is moving. If the door is broken It wont move far enough to allow heat/or cool. Door broke=dash remove, Mode motor=replace only.
@CAVZfan09 - Evap. fungus clean up; 1) locate the recirculation door behind the glove box in the rh upper corner. 2) Select defrost and recirculation mode(door should open) 3) Put fan on low 4) Spray liberal amount of Lysol or commercial A/C evaporator spray into recirc door intake. 5) Shut down system when core is saturated and allow to set/drip dry 6) Make sure drain is open on the bottom of the evap/core case. Rubber vent hose from the pass. firewall/engine side/bottom of truck
also the two T hoses on the side of the manifold were cut right after the T shouldnt there be coolant running through there?? and y would they cut them..?
I have a 99 Expedition as well, I'm having a problem with heat in the front of the truck and using the defrost. I go to turn either the defrost on or the heat and I get a lot of fish smelling smoke so much I can't even use it please help.
@shopken1 okay i changed the heater core made sure that my copartment door is working changed the thermostat did a flush now it does blow heat but as soon as i get on the high way it starts blowing cold again
All going well, knowing the job well or with this video...and wind to your back.. 6.8hrs (without a cooling system service) With complications that can and do occur such as crust, rust and bust up to 12hrs
@kingbrian24 As I recall... but I work on lots of makes and models and don't remember. I could be remembering the previous F series/body core replacement. I will look up the actual time tomorrow.
ok my core is isntalled but now i have to deal with the shifter cable i broke while trying to lower the column the part i broke is a little black cilinder idk whats is called but looks like i'm not going be able to replace just that part i'm guessing they sell the whole thing "shiftercable" any advice anyone by the way the cilinder broke cause it was stuck or resting in a metal part and i was trying to lower the steering column did'nt even put any force just the weight of the column did it.
When lowering a column always make sure everything is clear to drop it. Most folks have the sifter moved out of park position when lowering the column to clear the plastic bezel that was removed above the column previously. This may have allowed you to have avoided damaging the sift cable cover
the cable is like $90 dllrs at the dealership because the autoparts stores dont carry those, but i got mine from the pick and pull for $15 i got the wrong one still works is just a little shorter than the one i broke there's 2 diferent kind of transmissions on the 99 expedition
@GAROmx okay i changed the heater core replaced the thermostat did a flush now it blows hot air then as soon i get on the high way it starts blowing cold again
@babymarky90 - You need to monitor coolant temp at one of the heater core hoses when it blows cold to verify coolant circulation. Put a cheap automotive thermo sender on one of the heater core hoses and monitor temp on a DVOM w/resistance. Duct tape meter & sensor in place. This test will tell you if you have hot water available when you are getting cool air. If line is hot suspect blend door motor control issue. If line is cold.. coolant circulation issue.
i'm stuck i have the dashboard down the lid is removed BUT i can't get the hoses to the core disconnected i'm I supposed to disconnect thru the hood or thru the inside of the truck what's easier? and deppressing the 2 tabs!!! it would help if i knew how to deppress'em
@GAROmx - I would have done it before the core was loose/ dismounted. The nylon tabs simply push in towards the center enough to clear the outside back plastic "Windows" that they are locked against. If they are clearly depressed enough to clear the black plastic connector (the white plastic locking part stays on the line when the connector is removed) use some force to remove them..the orings are stuck on the line. Some Aerostars I have had to melt them off with hot wire and replace em.
The shift cable is attached to the shifter and the shift indicator back at 4;34. I am not sure which you are talking about. If the shifter conduit is cracked, it may still work ok, you will just have to try it and see. Make sure your mechanically able/confident to proceed. If you cant assemble it, its gonna cost a small fortune to get a mechanic to take in on with it taken apart!
exellent DIY posting my 99 expedition has this heater core problem but i dont know if i show try to fix it myself,the part that sound more difficult is the removing of the hoses after the dashboard has been removed and something about the flow reducer and the o-rings any advice before i get started !!!
The hose removal is actually the easy part. You can remove first if apprehensive. Just remember to rotate the hoses to break the stuck Orings loose from the core, and push the hoses further ON before depressing the release tabs or they will stick.
The flow reducer is in the hose assembly if it was included. Feel down the hoses until you feel a bulge in the hose. If you cant find one yours was not included with one. By the OE Ford replacement hose with restrict in it. Good luck!
I have a 99 Expedition that the heater coil was leaking. Someone recommended trying Blue Devil Engine and Cooling Sealer. After using the sealer, the leak stopped but now very little heat front and rear. If changing the heater coil is needed, should I replace the blend door and motor while the dash is out?
Block sealers are evil and may have restricted flow through the head gasket bleed holes and radiator as well. Flush out the system with TSP and allow it to circulate through several thermostat cycles before flushing out components with air and water. Inspect the blend door, if its in good shape use it as it has proven its self by now as reliable. Plug in the blend motor and watch its range of motion and listen to it internally to determine condition. If its been coolant soaked.. change it.
i have a 99 expediton, i don't get any heat on the front but do some on the back, i check my blen door and motor both work fine i flush my radiator couple of times and change my thermostat, and still no heat my car is not overheating is driving ok, do you think that my water pump can be bad and dose it have anything do do with the heater? or u think is mi heater core, remember i do get lots of hot air on the back seats of the roof
If the engine is at full operating temp; Check that both hoses from and into the core are hot. If both are hot, suspect the blend door travel or blend motor issue(frame5;43- the door is only accessible from inside the heater core case) Wp fault would cause overheating. Debris restriction in the core could cause flow restriction and low heat. Remove lines and use a gentle water hose flow to verify flow through the core. likely a blend door or blend motor problem.
FlowKooler makes this heater core in brass and copper so it will not fail like the aluminum from electrolysis.
mrleechamberlain 1 month ago
I'm in shock!
PackedFunk 1 month ago
Thank you so much! This video got me through it. Everything was right on the money!
100kpay 1 month ago
Shopken. Thanks for this video. It is an excellent walkthrough and I was able to replace my heater core in about 6 hours.
TIP: cut the old core pipes behind the dash to remove the old core, then pull the hoses forward under the hood and remove the old header core pipe cut pieces. It makes it much easier.
poolpartsguy 2 months ago
@shopken1 how long does this job usually take? i mean i know it varies on experience but i've torn down n put back s10 dashs no problem but idk about fords they seem sensitive lol
xxSOME1ELSExx98 2 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Djpuggie@gmail.com hekp please somebdy
djpuggie 2 months ago
Omg im in louisville I need some 1 to fix my heater core 98 expo eddie bower
djpuggie 2 months ago
@djpuggie - Work a deal with a mechanical friend or pay a shops price! Lots of shops dont like doing cores or wont do them. (high risk/low profit)
shopken1 2 months ago
Is there a way to bypass the heater core?
narckison1 2 months ago
@narckison1 - You will need to buy a 5/8 male to male heater hose connector from an auto parts store (a flush "T" will also work) Cut the hoses about 4" from the heater hose connectors and loop the lines from the engine together. Do not block off the heater core lines.
shopken1 2 months ago
@shopken1 Thanks man!! that worked out just fine.
narckison1 2 months ago
@shopken1 would that be the same procedure for a 98 town car? A mechanic did this easy fix for an expedition for me once, and now the town car is giving me trouble. I believe I'm getting antifreeze mist on the interior of my windshield (very filmy and oily, hard to clean it, car overheats sometimes, etc.).
altpath 2 weeks ago
This has been flagged as spam show
i need to do change heater is leaking in my f150 98 v6 but where are you located i am i los angeles california if you know sombody can do please let me know for my is to hard to do i cant to do thank you and great video
salvadorcardenas1000 3 months ago
i need to do change in my f150 98 v6 but where are you located i am i los angeles california if you know sombody can do please let me know for my is to hard to do i cant to do thank you and great video
salvadorcardenas1000 3 months ago
Good video. I worked for ford for over 22 yrs. And heater cores are no joke on some fords. Continentals you have to remove the black heater box assembly. Now that's a pain in the ass job!! Good video. that's a reason why I'm not working for ford anymore. Lol. The shit is getting to hard for my old ass. :)
styga1969 3 months ago
This man knows what he is doing!! My chilton manual is in the trash. Thank you very much for the video.
bholding43 3 months ago
is this the same for a 2000 eddie bauer expedition
hp11208 4 months ago
@hp11208 - Yep
shopken1 4 months ago
@hp11208 How long does it take,im thinking to just cut the dash board.
hp11208 4 months ago
good vid, keep up the good work...
1987lx 4 months ago
Nice video! I liked the still frame presentation with the subtitling. Very easy to follow, informative and much less distracting than a hand held video camera. Thanks!
gbachmura 4 months ago
thanks for the video man, its because of this video that i figured out why my blower wasn't working after the replacement of my heater core, my dumb butt forgot to plug the conection back in under the passenger side of the dash. thanks a ton!!
pbboy011 5 months ago
With a dremel tool, you do not need to pull the dash at all. I have a 1998 expedition and I replaced mine with just cutting through the box unit and all you need is some foil tape to patch it back up.
fordwindsor351 5 months ago
@fordwindsor351 - The job is not "too bad" as presented. No need to damage the case. I have repaired this type of "Repair" in the past (most often found on Taurus heater cases. Vibration and flex creates stresses on the plastic case and it can distort over time without the strength of the lids enclosure as engineered. Binding of the blend door, noises and leaks, cracking of the case- can be expected if the case is damaged/modified. Best to just do the job right.
shopken1 5 months ago
Great Job on the video. I never would have found many of the fasteners. Job took me approxamatly 10 hours to preform. I am sure it can be done quicker as I am not a mechanic.
Job saved me hundreds of dollors. The only hang up was disconnecting the water lines. Have patience.
rdmagley 6 months ago
07SILVERC6- 1) Rotate fittings back and forth until they move easily (oring corrosion stuck) 2) While rotating, push fittings onto the core farther (past water pressure has pushed them against the stop) 3) Push in on the release tabs and pull the fitting off. Another method is to gently pry the holding wedges inside the windows out and away from the core tube raised bib and pull off. Fittings; if destroyed are available at a parts store. If tough to find look in a Doorman catalog
shopken1 6 months ago
@shopken1 Great job on the video, I finished sunday and it works great and it went back together pretty easily. Thank you very much.
07SILVERC6 6 months ago
Thank you. The dash moves just enough out of the way to get to the heater core box. Now the hoses need to come off and im not sure how to or how to reach them. Any ideas?
07SILVERC6 6 months ago
Great video. Everything went great up until i went to pull the dash forward. I did not see anything about the driver side power cables. It seems to be holding the dash in and now i'm stuck. The passenger side was easy but i'm not sure how to finish the job. Does anybody out there have any suggestions?
07SILVERC6 6 months ago
@07SILVERC6 - No need to remove any electrical on the drivers side- the dash is lowered down on the drivers side and tilted, not removed. Make sure you are not hanging up on the shift cable. A few folks have broken the cable while trying to lift the dash off of the drivers side. It might help to shift to low range to move the cable assembly.
shopken1 6 months ago
God this looks like a beast, I lost mine yesterday, bypased for now. Gonna tackle this in Oct or so when it cools off a bit. Any idea how much heat jsut the rear heater will put out?
marcjorgensen 7 months ago
@marcjorgensen - Not enough for the defroster to work! LOL
shopken1 7 months ago
Yo! Shopken1, Thank you man for this video. It helped me so much. Dammm what a pain in the A**S it is replacing the heater core but its well worth it, you save a lot of money by replacing it your self. Again thanks man! Two Thumbs Up!
Blue300i 8 months ago
Crap, and I was thinking this was something I could do myself. Looks like it will be a huge bill to pay.
kdtarvin 9 months ago
good video.Being a ford tech for over 20 yrs you did an excellent job on a pain in the ass heater core.At least you didnt have to remove the entire heater box assembly as some fords/lincoln/mercurys need to ..And i no you cut and scratched up your hand on that job the dash metal is very sharp in some places..
styga1969 10 months ago
i just changed the heater core on my 2001 Ford F-150 XLT, it took me 9 hours... i hate my life... NINE HOURSSSSSSS............ F***EN PEICE OF S**T.... anyways, great video, helped a lot...
markomadness450 11 months ago
@markomadness450 lol bro! i feel ya! im about to start on mine! FUCK! lol!
insanejae 11 months ago
shopken1 thanks alot for everything you have done for me you have been alot of help the control panel from hot to cold was bad i replaced it and put blind door back in everything is heating up just fine now thanks for everything god bless
TheClint32 1 year ago
@TheClint32 - Glad you have heat again.. you earned it!
shopken1 1 year ago
@shopken1 hey thanks for the video i just had a question, what year is your truck? i have a 2000 and dont think its the same year because on my i was told id have to recover in a/c system and take of a line. thanks!
mrsjohn098 1 year ago
@mrsjohn098 - If I remember right this truck was a 2000. No need to touch A/C system. Video shows all proceedures needed.
shopken1 1 year ago
What would a shop charge for a service like this?
ethandiaz 1 year ago
@ethandiaz- Skill@repair@business-area-rate-warranty/etc.$500-$1800?-Cause of failure needs determined/remedy 1st. Shops need 40/50 parts/labor ratio & liability/factored.Heater cores=low profit-little parts sale/high risk/failing again at shops$. WHY/again? may cost MANY hours & cores. Shops refuse core jobs/raise rate/cover loss. Most shops need $145+ per shop man hr to get 2% net!natl/avg Parts+laborXhrs sold/per man/per day-$100sold=$2net profit-pre tax to survive! Tough business.
shopken1 1 year ago
@shopken1 Did you have to remove the radio
jco5030 1 year ago
i have the way to change heater cores fast sample on ford f 150,250,expeditions.on,on,on,on, yuo don;t havetoo remove dash all theway
marthazuritaposadas 1 year ago
@marthazuritaposadas - The dash does not need removed entirely as the video shows. It is lifted and tilted out of the way to allow access to the heater case. It would take Houdini or a butcher to get it in and out any other way than to free the suitcase.
shopken1 1 year ago
SHOPKEN 1 I FORGOT TO THANK YOU THIS VIDEO HELPED ME OUT ALOT CHANGING MY HEATER CORE COULD HAVE NOT HAVE DONE IT WITH OUT THIS.......
TheClint32 1 year ago
shopken1!!!!!!!!! i put cardboard in front of the radiator to see if no air coming in with the warmer temp if it would blow hot and it made a diffence so im going to flush out the radiator mabe that will work thanks for your help and if you have anything else let me know..........
TheClint32 1 year ago
@TheClint32 - You said both hoses were hot- that means circulation is ok and eng. temp ok. If the blend door is removed you will only get cold air! Put the door back in and remove the door actuator at the bottom of the blend door pivot(sets on the outside and bottom of the heater suitcase and can be removed without pulling dash/suitcase. Move the door with fingers,does it hit both sides of the stops? plug the blend door acutuator in and turn on key- cycle heat from warm to cold- does it move?
shopken1 1 year ago
shopken1 i had pulled the blind door all the way out its still out now i put the dash back allready i think whats going on is the radiator may be stoped up because when i pull the drain plug out no water comes out and the top of the radiator is hot but not the bottom so much im going to run a garden hose to it and see if i can clwan it out the core is getting water to it both hoses are hot going in i dont think the water is flowing fast enough to keep the core hot
TheClint32 1 year ago
BOTH HOSES GOING INTO HEATER HOSE ARE HOT SO I DONT UNDERSTAND WHY ITS NOT BLOWING HOT AIR INSTEAD OF WARM PLEASE READ EVERYTHING I HAVE POSTED AND SEE IF ANY ONE CAN TELL ME SOMETHING ELSE TO DO TO HELP OUT IM ALL EARS...............
TheClint32 1 year ago
@TheClint32 - The core has full water circulation at all times. Heat control is a matter of air bypass or forced blowthrough the core. If the door does not "Seal" you cannot generate full heat or cold air in the summer. With the blend motor removed.. You should be able to rock the door back and forth with your fingertips. A firm clunk sound should be heard in each direction- telling you that the door is seated against its foam stops. If the door is hard to move it will wreck the motor.
shopken1 1 year ago
DOES THE BLIND DOOR HAVE TO BE IN AND OPEN ALL THE WAY FOR THE HEAT TO WORK RIGHT IS THAT WHY ITS BLOWING WARM INSTEAD OF HOT I HAVE RACKED MY BRAIN HERE TRYING TO FIX THIS AND NOTHING IS WORKING I EVEN PUT A GARDEN HOSE TO HEATER HOSE TO FLUSH OUT THINKING IT MAY HAVE CLOGED UP FROM OLD FLUID IM NOT SURE ABOUT THIS ITS ABOUT TO KILL ME
TheClint32 1 year ago
@TheClint32 - The "Blend door" must move free in both directions.(doors warp) The blend door motor (at the bottom of the heater case with the door pivot going into it) must cycle in both directions to the stops. Unbolt the motor from the door pivot (without dash removal) and set it on the floor plugged in. Key on- cycle the heat knob in both directions. Does it move? Is it smooth? If you have no motion- it most likely is a bad motor or drive (common). Infrequently its in the heater control.
shopken1 1 year ago
I JUST REPLACED THE HEATER CORE IN MY 1998 FORD EXPEDITION AND ITS BLOWING WARM NOT NOT! SO I ALSO CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT STILL WARM SO I TOOK DASH BACK OUT AGAIN AND MADE SURE THE BLIND DOOR WASNT CLOSED AND FOUND OUT MOTOR WASNT WOKING RIGHT AND DIDNT OPEN DOOR ALL THE WAY! ...... SO I TOOK THE BLIND DOOR ALL THE WAY OFF AND PUT BACK THE DASH THINKING I HAVE FIXED IT PUT DASH BACK IN AND ITS STILL WARM I DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHATS GOING ON HERE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
TheClint32 1 year ago
@shopken1- I have done all of the steps that have been pointed out in the video, and I still can not lower the steering column. Is there an alternate method to lowering it? And if I can not lower the steering column, should I still be able to remove the dash, if all of the proper screw and bolts have been removed?
blackskin305 1 year ago
@blackskin305 - Make sure you are not caught on the shifter leaver. Turn the key in the run position and shift into low gear. If it still does not drop- you have not seen a fastner after removal of the stiffner frame. It will lower to the seat. Dash cannot be removed without dropping the column.
shopken1 1 year ago
Im about to attempt this job o my 2000 f-150.....About how long of a process and do u risk breaking alot of parts just to do it....would it be better to bypass?
fordtuff150 1 year ago
@fordtuff150 - What is your skill & care level? This is what you need to ask yourself. Its always better and safer to have a working defroster and heater! With skill; 6hrs? Some have reported it taking them 2 days. (not familiar/skilled with mechanical repair)
shopken1 1 year ago
el video esta muy bien explicado y sin quitar tantas partes
thanks for you help
caydark 1 year ago
I would also like to say thanks. I just finished replacing the core in my 2000 Expedition. Your video was very helpful!! Would've been much more difficult if I had to guess what fasteners to remove.
jcstu 1 year ago
The removal tool can be purchased from an auto-parts store. It is little more than a groove cut in a piece of steel that slips over the fitting like a thin wrench. I have one and almost never use it on the Ford trucks. On an Aerospace it is absolutely needed as you cannot even reach the fittings with your hands. You can buy the fittings that fit onto the heater core lines from a parts store. Look in a Doorman catalog at a parts store if they cannot find them.
Theshopgp 1 year ago
and if not, where can i get the removal tool?
TotallytitsRE 1 year ago
shopken1, this was the best thing ive ever seen or done for that matter. thanks alot and i have a ? how do i get the lines off of the heater core? i dont have the tool but you said i dont need it, i just cant figure out how to push those tabs in. maybe you have a better plan? thanks again
-Joe
TotallytitsRE 1 year ago
1) Rotate fittings back and forth until they move easily (corrosion stuck) 2) While rotating, push fittings onto the core farther (water pressure pushed them against the stop) 3) Push in on the release tabs and pull the fitting off. Another method is to gently pry the holding wedges inside the windows out and away from the core tube raised bib and pull off. Fittings if destroyed are available at a parts store. If tough to find look in a Doorman catalog (theshopgp is my alternate account)
shopken1 1 year ago
This was the best video I've ever seen on step by step instructions, it was the only reason I attempted this job. Great video, but when I got everything put back together it's still blowing cold air? Any thoughts on what to do? Thanks again!
MrRick1079 1 year ago
@MrRick1079 - If both hoses are hot comming and going out of the heater core, the water is circulating. Suspect a blend door travel or blend motor issue(frame5;43) The blend door motors fail often. It can be changed without dash removal. 3 screws secure it to the bottom of the case. Remove it and plug it in.. key on, see if it moves full range when the temp knob is cycled from hot to cold. Make sure the blend door moves easily; you should hear it hit its resting stops when open and closed.
shopken1 1 year ago
do u live in brooklyn -il pay u to change my heater cole -get back
evansferdinand 1 year ago
@evansferdinand - Sorry.. on the west coast. Maybe farther than you want to drive. Heh..
shopken1 1 year ago
thanks for all your help....but i have another problem...i changed the heater core,im getting heat in the front and floor but the rear heat is still ice cold,do you have ideas on this..
carpetlayer718 1 year ago
@carpetlayer718 - Are both lines hot into and out of the rear core? If not, the core is likely restricted. The temp control door & actuation at the rear unit will need tested for range of motion if the lines are hot.
shopken1 1 year ago
i took the support bar off and steering wheel won't drop down....can you help?
carpetlayer718 1 year ago
@carpetlayer718 - Unlock the column with the key and move the shifter into 1st. Does it drop now? (others have broken the shift cable I assume at this step) I dont remember if the column used additonal fastners under the support bar. When released it should drop without force.
shopken1 1 year ago
When i had lowered the steering wheel, the shift cable broke that goes to transmision. It was somthing i did and now im replacing the cable. I really apreciate your video and your help! I cant thank you enough! The heater core i replaced was for a single mother of two children who cant pay 800.00 to have it replaced. So again thank you very much!
davelsmede 1 year ago
*im gonna start workin today with my friend expedition this video help alot...thanks.....my computer its gonna be by my side step by step...lol
ReyMex420 1 year ago
as soon as i hook the batterie up the tail lights stay on and everything works it just wont start any help would be apreciated
davelsmede 1 year ago
@davelsmede - Whats the nature of the no start condition? 1) Cranks but does not fire up- 2) Does not crank
shopken1 1 year ago
@shopken1 no crank at all starter doesent even make a sound. the tail lights came on when i hucked the batterie back up. all the dash lights, windows and all electrical works but when you turn key nothing happens. almost like a theft protection.
davelsmede 1 year ago
@davelsmede - 1) Do you have an aftermarket alarm system? Tail lamps on when batt. was connected?.. 2) Verify that the shift cable is moving the transmission completely into park position (or neutral) the cranking circuit needs either position to allow cranking.. 3) Ignition switch is on the lower column and remote activated with a rod, Did you bend it or move the switch position?,, 5) If no to the above you need a wiring schematic to test from starting relay pins/starter circuits.
shopken1 1 year ago
i got everything done and truck wont start any tips that could help me?
davelsmede 1 year ago
Outstanding resource, if you've never done this job before! I had my laptop beside me in the expedition through the entire process. It took me a little longer; 10 hours. Had a hell of a time getting the old heater core and blend door out. Also, had tough time getting old hoses off and new hoses on....not a lot of room to get your hands in there to tighten hose clamps! Everything else was like clock work......I thank you very much!!!! I would've never even tried this without your help.
Pann4Gold 1 year ago
@ shopken1 - Man I don't know how to thank you other than just say, Thank you VERY much for having this on the web. Like the other fella, seeing this video saved me close to $1000.00. It is Awesome!!! My son and I completed this job without a hitch. Again, Thank you. I have told the people at the parts house where to find this and they were amazed. Rock on!
psychorn69 1 year ago
@psychorn69 - This is how all repair info should be done in a modern age... Not the stone club manual methods provided. Mechanics have it tough and must pioneer methods to survive and provide quality work for the customers that have put their trust in them... without much help I might add. See the video I have posted on front brake service done in a professional manor for more good info.
shopken1 1 year ago
This is an awesome video, thank you for putting this up. This is probably going to save me about $950. I just have one question, Is it safe to bypass the heater core until I have the time to replace it? And if so, how long could I do that for?
gmg2937 1 year ago
@gmg2937 - As long as you do not block off the lines, but connect them together so that the coolant circulates, it can be bypassed indefinitely with no harm to the vehicle.
shopken1 1 year ago
97 f150 ext cab done in 6 hours just a hella lot of screws lol
JeezyDaPortageMan 1 year ago
I found this video to be perfectly accurate. I was a huge help and because of this I was able to do this job four hours. Thanks so much for posting this!!
dblummy 1 year ago
I already did this before and it takes a lot of work, but if you take it to a repair shop they charge around $300 dollars to do it
isaias131982 1 year ago
My problem is a strong smell of antifreeze, but no leaks inside or outside of my Expedition. Could it be something else? Thanks for any help!
aston1072 1 year ago
@aston1072 - If the smell is in the cab... the only cause is a bad core. Sometimes a pinhole leak starts and when under pressure it creates a "Mist" of coolant into the heaterbox airstream. It may only occur when pressure and volume are high, like cruise conditions. You may not have enough leakage at this point to accumulate in the box and run out the A/C drain at the bottom of the passenger side firewall drain (its worth a look) Coolant is very unhealthy to breathe.
shopken1 1 year ago
@shopken1 Thanks a million!!
aston1072 1 year ago
I'm gathering info on how to do this on a 1999 F-150, 4.6L 4WD. According to a "Haynes Repair Manual" it says that the AC system needs to be emptied first. Other step by step instructions do not include this, including your video. Your thoughts please.
ATFD41 1 year ago
@ATFD41 - Discharging the A/C is not required as the core can be changed with the "Suitcase" in the truck. You can remove the top off of the unit (a few tough access screws in the rear of the case) and replace the heater core without disturbing the A/C evaporator. Removal of the entire unit is a lot more work and not needed or recommended.
shopken1 1 year ago
@shopken1 Thanks for the info. My digital odometer will flash on/off everytime I drive, with it off most of the time. While I have the dash apart is this something I can easily fix?
ATFD41 1 year ago
@ATFD41 - Sounds like an internal fault in the odo or an interuption of a ground or power. No advantage to working on it while the dash is moved as the instrument cluster does not need to be removed. You are better off doing it as a seperate proceedure IMO. Verify speed PID w/scanner. Isolate the ground and power feed from a schematic, test the circuit with a Histograph DVOM. Monitor voltages while symptom is occuring to isolate. Speed sensors are analog and the cluster is digital/converted.
shopken1 1 year ago
@ATFD41 - 1st--Check for internal codes with the engine/trans control, ABS and or the digital ratio conversion systems as some odo faults are system failures that are monitored and the odo could be following a fault pattern.
shopken1 1 year ago
what if the heat needle goes up and down an i smell coolent. when im on the freeway itll stay in the middle but when i get on stop an go traffic itll be nearly touching the warning spot of the temp. how will it affect my car.
Orlevikings11 1 year ago
@Orlevikings11 ~ Verify that it is actually getting hot or if the gauge is not accurate. The pcm temp. is separate. Have someone drive the car & monitor the pcm ECT pid with a scanner. A bad T-stat can cause coolant temp cycles/sticking but so can very low water or a bad head-gasket seal. Radiator restrictions tend to allow the temp to climb steady but not drop or overheat in poor airflow (idle in traffic) or load. Check fanclutch. Overheats; fix ASAP= engine death
shopken1 1 year ago
if the heater core is broken does it affect the engine?-(ford expidition 1999)
OGJoel2009 1 year ago
@OGJoel2009 - Only if; 1) The system is loosing coolant.. no amount of loss is acceptable. Low coolant levels, even slight ones create air pockets inside the heads and manifold allowing engine damaging hot spots/poor heat distribution. 2) If the heater core lines are blocked off or plugged. If bypassed the coolant lines must be placed together to allow the coolant to circulate. The coolant flow is never restricted with this system to control heater output.
shopken1 1 year ago
Wow, what a pain in the ass. Every car maker should be putting the heater cores on the other side of the firewall. That's just cruel.
Momoomar 1 year ago
@Momoomar - Some cores are much tougher for sure
shopken1 1 year ago
Ok, pretty much used this video as a guide. I would say it was about 98% accurate. Took me about 14 hours with various trips to the auto parts store. Disconecting the Heater hoses was a real pain even with the tool from autozone. Also, the dash sure doesn't just slip right out! LOL Anyway, i think if i had to do it again I could go start to finish in about 7 hours. Thanks for the great video. Saved me 7-800 bux I'm sure. It was not fun for sure. LOL
m561gammagoat 1 year ago
GOD DAMN FORD FOR THIS.
MARCBUSH3271 1 year ago
@MARCBUSH3271 - I feel your pain! Try a heater core on a 2000-or newer Jeep full sized if you want to know suffering... The Taurus was also a hummer, but after doing 10 or so of them you get it down...
shopken1 1 year ago
Ok, this looks like my truck, mine is a 1998 exped. XLT is this the correct procedure?
m561gammagoat 1 year ago
@m561gammagoat - yep
shopken1 1 year ago
Ok, pretty much used this video as a guide. I would say it was about 98% accurate. Took me about 14 hours with various trips to the auto parts store. Disconecting the Heater hoses was a real pain even with the tool from autozone. Also, the dash sure doesn't just slip right out! LOL Anyway, i think if i had to do it again I could go start to finish in about 7 hours. Thanks for the great video. Saved me 7-800 bux I'm sure. It was not fun for sure. LOL
m561gammagoat 1 year ago
ok thanks. can i flush the system out just by removing the thermostat and upper radiator hose and using a garden hose to flush it out? or should I take it in and have it done? as for the engine grounds where can I locate those?
ZR1Zoomer 1 year ago
@ZR1Zoomer - You need to drain and fill the system with water and a flushing agent. Let it run through several thermostat cycles and drain out. Repeat until clean. Finish with the water hose to get all the soap out. Make sure to pull block drains or your wasting your time. (most shops do poor coolant flushes/waste of money) I use a homemade tool that injects compressed air with the water. turbulent and effective. Follow the ground cables to the engine for location.
shopken1 1 year ago
Hey it's me again. About 10 months ago I replaced my heater core using this vid...and now as of yesterday I'm getting that nasty smell again through the vents and the car is starting to leak antifreeze from under the passenger side of the vehicle. I know it's my heater core again, but any guesses as to why it went bad again so soon? at least I can replace my blend door this time too though, but still it's going to be a pain to have to do this again. any tips so that I wont have to do this again?
ZR1Zoomer 1 year ago
@ZR1Zoomer - @ZR1Zoomer - Many causes; bad core, electrolosis from coolant contamination, cavitation, suspended particle blasting, bad engine ground, crankshaft crack/bearing issue (monitor voltage in coolant when hot/under load; .2-3v big trouble) Recommend; 1) OEM heater core- 2) Drain out block and water/air flush every component- 3) Run a flush agent or tsp and water/flush out again 4) 50% coolant/distilled water- 5) Check engine grounds 6) Add ground strap to heater core (voltage prob)
shopken1 1 year ago
@airsoftplayer423 I had the same problem with my f-150. You should check your vaccum lines. I just needed to replace a vaccum hose on mine because it was pinching, restricting air flow so it could not transition. The hose for me was like 2 bucks.
Chili559 1 year ago
@airsoftplayer423 - Best practice is to check all of them in the engine compartment and dash. Some automotive systems will use 3 or more fuses in seemingly unrelated systems to power controls of different types. Use a test lamp that is grounded and check for power at both tabs protruding out of the fuse top with the key "on"
shopken1 1 year ago
@airsoftplayer423 - Test all fuses first, then the mode motor. (you will most likely need a book like a Climer or Haynes & a schematic to chase it out) Verify that it makes any noise or attempt to move when the mode control knob is cycled from defrost to floor. If the motor tries to move, suspect something in the case blocking the mode motor (like a ball point pen down the defroster duct) otherwise- pin test from the control head to find it. (Sorry, a fuse is the only potential easy fix)
shopken1 1 year ago
i drive a 97 f-150 same body style and the exact dash but my truck doesnt have a center console...... these steps should work for me as well right?
acastro817 1 year ago
@acastro817 -- Pretty close
shopken1 1 year ago
Thanks
smiley2uall 1 year ago
killer video there's all you need right here! they made it simple
MrK5DADDY 1 year ago
My problem is that the actuator is bad or the blend door is stuck. I had a friend replace my heater core a few months ago but now I have no air. I took it to ford and thats what they told me. However my so called friend does not want to do work again without getting paid again. I find it to be unfair. So I'm atempting it on my own. Is there an easier way to get to the actuator without removing everything?
josesant10 1 year ago
@josesant10 -- I would not do it without pay either. Dont blame the friend for that.. they already helped out once. Shops can charge 650 to 1000 bucks to do this job.
The actuator can be removed without full heater case removal but its not easy to do. Once fasteners are removed (rear ones pretty tight quarters) I dont remember if the case needs lifted or not (I work on hundreds of models and my mind can mix them together)
I would not recommend this job if your not familiar with repair.
shopken1 1 year ago
@josesant10 -- I would not do it without pay either. Dont blame the friend for that.. they already helped out once. Shops can charge 650 to 1000 bucks to do this job.
The actuator can be removed without full heater case removal but its not easy to do. Once fasteners are removed (rear ones pretty tight quarters) I dont remember if the case needs lifted or not (I work on hundreds of models and my mind can mix them together)
I would not recommend this job if your not familiar with repair.
shopken1 1 year ago
shopken1 this is my first time trying to do this..Iviewed the video but i didn't see anywhere for me to remove radio or the heater/air control panel. There is no need to removed these parts?
josesant10 1 year ago
@josesant10 - No need to remove
shopken1 1 year ago
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I am a helicopter mechanic and used to detailed processes and instructions, and you have done a great job. Your video saved me considerable time and money; thank you.
xchinookfe 2 years ago
Yes it is a pain in the old rectum.... thanksa for posting it
tcacfoh 2 years ago
talk about a fucking job! Now I know when people say that a heater core is a job that they arent lieing
korn6499 2 years ago
Thank you soooo much! Great complete set of instructions. Saved me a lot of time and money. I would have never been able to find the exact screws and bolts to remove and in what order on my own. Completed in just an afternoon with no problems. Everything working great now with no leaks. Thank You again!
broncopaws 2 years ago
Nice Video ShopKen1. I think Haynes and Chilton should hire you to do their illustrations. I swear by my Mitchell catelogs, as they are very decent. Whats a shocker to me though, is that even the factory shop shop manual volumes are horribly put together. They make you bounce around from chapter to chapter for these types of jobs. I'm sure you are pretty use to that though. It appears you know your stuff. I like how you left out any blood or swear words too. That's not an easy job.
mine1username 2 years ago
@mine1username -- Check out a video I have called Avalon dash pull. Now THATS a tough dash to pull! It was not intended for removal for heater core/common failure jobs.
shopken1 1 year ago
hey shopken1 you sound very knowledgeable, your video will be very helpful in removing my heater core, before starting the dash removal, is there anything i should do to verify that the core is the problem? i have a fish smell but only when the AC is on not when the heater is on. the heater is luke warm at best, and it takes awhile to get that way. i felt the hose by the firewall in the engine compartment and it feels hot, so i do not think the thermostat is the problem. any help will be useful.
CAVZfan09 2 years ago
@CAVZfan09 - The smell could be fungus growing on the A/C evaporator core. Heat control is most likely the blend door motor at the bottom of the door If both hoses from the core are hot. 3:11 on the video shows the motor, the small black box below the pointing finger. Hold your hand on the unit while cycling the temp knob to verify that it is moving. If the door is broken It wont move far enough to allow heat/or cool. Door broke=dash remove, Mode motor=replace only.
shopken1 2 years ago
@CAVZfan09 - Evap. fungus clean up; 1) locate the recirculation door behind the glove box in the rh upper corner. 2) Select defrost and recirculation mode(door should open) 3) Put fan on low 4) Spray liberal amount of Lysol or commercial A/C evaporator spray into recirc door intake. 5) Shut down system when core is saturated and allow to set/drip dry 6) Make sure drain is open on the bottom of the evap/core case. Rubber vent hose from the pass. firewall/engine side/bottom of truck
shopken1 2 years ago
Comment removed
CAVZfan09 2 years ago
also the two T hoses on the side of the manifold were cut right after the T shouldnt there be coolant running through there?? and y would they cut them..?
furious530 2 years ago
Rear heater core bypassed. It might of had a leak so it was disconnected?
shopken1 2 years ago
dose anyone know were i can find the heater hose routing?
furious530 2 years ago
The rear hoses attach to the front heater core supply and return hoses.
shopken1 2 years ago
Thank You!
Demples89 2 years ago
I have a 99 Expedition as well, I'm having a problem with heat in the front of the truck and using the defrost. I go to turn either the defrost on or the heat and I get a lot of fish smelling smoke so much I can't even use it please help.
Demples89 2 years ago
@Demples89 - Sounds like it need a core replacement
shopken1 2 years ago
what if i dont have a leak
babymarky90 2 years ago
Coolant smell or contaminated glass are also signs.
shopken1 2 years ago
@shopken1 okay i changed the heater core made sure that my copartment door is working changed the thermostat did a flush now it does blow heat but as soon as i get on the high way it starts blowing cold again
babymarky90 2 years ago
AND YOUR SURE THAT IN ORDER TO REPLACE THE HEAter core it is absolutely nessecery to remove the center console
babymarky90 2 years ago
just out of curiosity since ill be very soon tearing into my 97 f150, how long does this job take a competent mechanic?
kingbrian24 2 years ago
All going well, knowing the job well or with this video...and wind to your back.. 6.8hrs (without a cooling system service) With complications that can and do occur such as crust, rust and bust up to 12hrs
shopken1 2 years ago
@kingbrian24 The f150 is much easier.. 1.5hrs?
shopken1 2 years ago
really? is there more differences just the center console?
kingbrian24 2 years ago
@kingbrian24 As I recall... but I work on lots of makes and models and don't remember. I could be remembering the previous F series/body core replacement. I will look up the actual time tomorrow.
shopken1 2 years ago
Kingbrian24- My error.. 7hr book time, 3.5hrs warranty time
shopken1 2 years ago
ok my core is isntalled but now i have to deal with the shifter cable i broke while trying to lower the column the part i broke is a little black cilinder idk whats is called but looks like i'm not going be able to replace just that part i'm guessing they sell the whole thing "shiftercable" any advice anyone by the way the cilinder broke cause it was stuck or resting in a metal part and i was trying to lower the steering column did'nt even put any force just the weight of the column did it.
GAROmx 2 years ago
When lowering a column always make sure everything is clear to drop it. Most folks have the sifter moved out of park position when lowering the column to clear the plastic bezel that was removed above the column previously. This may have allowed you to have avoided damaging the sift cable cover
shopken1 2 years ago
@GAROmx how much did you end up paying for the shifter cable
babymarky90 2 years ago
the cable is like $90 dllrs at the dealership because the autoparts stores dont carry those, but i got mine from the pick and pull for $15 i got the wrong one still works is just a little shorter than the one i broke there's 2 diferent kind of transmissions on the 99 expedition
GAROmx 2 years ago
@GAROmx okay i changed the heater core replaced the thermostat did a flush now it blows hot air then as soon i get on the high way it starts blowing cold again
babymarky90 2 years ago
@babymarky90 - You need to monitor coolant temp at one of the heater core hoses when it blows cold to verify coolant circulation. Put a cheap automotive thermo sender on one of the heater core hoses and monitor temp on a DVOM w/resistance. Duct tape meter & sensor in place. This test will tell you if you have hot water available when you are getting cool air. If line is hot suspect blend door motor control issue. If line is cold.. coolant circulation issue.
shopken1 2 years ago
i'm stuck i have the dashboard down the lid is removed BUT i can't get the hoses to the core disconnected i'm I supposed to disconnect thru the hood or thru the inside of the truck what's easier? and deppressing the 2 tabs!!! it would help if i knew how to deppress'em
GAROmx 2 years ago
@GAROmx - I would have done it before the core was loose/ dismounted. The nylon tabs simply push in towards the center enough to clear the outside back plastic "Windows" that they are locked against. If they are clearly depressed enough to clear the black plastic connector (the white plastic locking part stays on the line when the connector is removed) use some force to remove them..the orings are stuck on the line. Some Aerostars I have had to melt them off with hot wire and replace em.
shopken1 2 years ago
minute 4:36 a "black rod connected to the shifting thing" cracked is this bad?
GAROmx 2 years ago
The shift cable is attached to the shifter and the shift indicator back at 4;34. I am not sure which you are talking about. If the shifter conduit is cracked, it may still work ok, you will just have to try it and see. Make sure your mechanically able/confident to proceed. If you cant assemble it, its gonna cost a small fortune to get a mechanic to take in on with it taken apart!
shopken1 2 years ago
exellent DIY posting my 99 expedition has this heater core problem but i dont know if i show try to fix it myself,the part that sound more difficult is the removing of the hoses after the dashboard has been removed and something about the flow reducer and the o-rings any advice before i get started !!!
GAROmx 2 years ago
The hose removal is actually the easy part. You can remove first if apprehensive. Just remember to rotate the hoses to break the stuck Orings loose from the core, and push the hoses further ON before depressing the release tabs or they will stick.
The flow reducer is in the hose assembly if it was included. Feel down the hoses until you feel a bulge in the hose. If you cant find one yours was not included with one. By the OE Ford replacement hose with restrict in it. Good luck!
shopken1 2 years ago
I have a 99 Expedition that the heater coil was leaking. Someone recommended trying Blue Devil Engine and Cooling Sealer. After using the sealer, the leak stopped but now very little heat front and rear. If changing the heater coil is needed, should I replace the blend door and motor while the dash is out?
timhumphrey1 2 years ago
Block sealers are evil and may have restricted flow through the head gasket bleed holes and radiator as well. Flush out the system with TSP and allow it to circulate through several thermostat cycles before flushing out components with air and water. Inspect the blend door, if its in good shape use it as it has proven its self by now as reliable. Plug in the blend motor and watch its range of motion and listen to it internally to determine condition. If its been coolant soaked.. change it.
shopken1 2 years ago
i have a 99 expediton, i don't get any heat on the front but do some on the back, i check my blen door and motor both work fine i flush my radiator couple of times and change my thermostat, and still no heat my car is not overheating is driving ok, do you think that my water pump can be bad and dose it have anything do do with the heater? or u think is mi heater core, remember i do get lots of hot air on the back seats of the roof
morales833 2 years ago
If the engine is at full operating temp; Check that both hoses from and into the core are hot. If both are hot, suspect the blend door travel or blend motor issue(frame5;43- the door is only accessible from inside the heater core case) Wp fault would cause overheating. Debris restriction in the core could cause flow restriction and low heat. Remove lines and use a gentle water hose flow to verify flow through the core. likely a blend door or blend motor problem.
shopken1 2 years ago