Way to go man, You give art a defined science. I love it. Im supposing the reed block adjusts for the altitude somewhat but not totally? I am new to this but you take chance and give it dimension. so i can now take my 3/4 in bore 25 in piece of bamboo and not take chances ruining it. 9 0f 10 split or bowed on me. Of the ten I got 1 good. id hate to ruin it now. lol..
@talkingdeer61455 - Thanks humongously for the super-kind words! Uhm, I hope I don't sound like a complete ass here (lol), but I'm a wee bit confoozled... "reed block"? Do you mean the embouchure, or edge you blow across?
Bamboo... yeah - if you don't want it to split, try binding in in a few places, and then sealing it all over and within with a good shellac or something ^_~
to find out the exact length of the flute, the distance from where the air splits to the distal end, and where each finger hole is. (would that measurement be the center of the hole, or the proximal/distal side?) What throws me is the concept of cross-fingering, and blowing overtones. In my mind, cross-fingering makes no sense. If there's a place for the air to escape, it should take it right? And yet cross fingering is necessary for a chromatic scale. I just don't get it... HELP ME OUT MAN!!!!!
@coyotecrow4 - Yes, that would be to the fingering holes' centers. As far as cross-fingering, remember that the air escapes & re-enters (vibrates) in & out of the flute at the open fingering hole(s), the open end, & even the embouchure, all at the same time - also, the packets of energy/vibration within the bore, & their nodes and anti-nodes, are changing sizes & positions as you go up & down the scale. So, there's more variables in cross-fingering than just the holes - I hope this helps! ^_^
This is really cool! I'm an amateur flutemaker who's been constructing by set schematics and scaling up photos. This leaves me a bit limited in making flutes with more exotic scales, such as the Phrygian and Dorian modes. The styles I make are transverse, end-blown (like a shakuhatchi or a quena), fipple flutes(think tin whistle or recorder), and Native American style. So ehat you're saying is that given a specific diameter and style, one could use an equation to find out (read next comment)
@b4owulf - I hope you'll forgive me, but I really don't know how to put it simpler... like it says in the video and the blog post, you take the distance sound travels per second, divide that by the Hertz frequency of the note, and the answer is that note's wavelength... from there, it depends what kind of flute you're making - for the side-blown transverse flute in this post and others in the same week, the next thing to do is to divide that answer in half to get the flute's length ^_~
I'm sorry, I eventually got there(still got a carchoal working brain:/). But I wasn't clear on my first question. I wanted to know if u measure that distance from the open end or from the center of the mouthhole? By the way, what do u think of the 1:23 proportion for inside lenght/bore? Thanks for your help and hope some day I can make a reaaly huge flute like the one u made, but even better ;) eheheh
@b4owulf Charcoal? I'm still runnin' on rubber bands! ahahaha
Measure from the inner wall of the closed end to the open end. In truth, the end (the end of the total affected air column) actually reaches to beyond the open end by about 1/3 bore diameter, so subtracting that much more from the body makes it more accurate. Ex: 3/4" diameter flute, 1/2 wavelength measurement at 15" (for example), body should actually be 14 & 3/4" long to play that note ^_^
But you'll want to keep the fingering hole which is the closest to the embouchure to be more than 10 or so bore diameters away from the embouchure, or you may run into nodal interference.
After reading your post I compared this method with another one I have from mark shepard. In the end the measurments are identical. So, the only thing that is lacking for me is practice! Another thing that bothers me, is that the root note and sometimes the 2nd note is very hard for me to get. I need to blow very gently or I loose it, sometimes I overblow it and I get the 2nd octave note. So I don´t if it is me that didn´t get the hang of it or if the flute is not well made!
@b4owulf It's probably a well made flute - perhaps your embouchure (that is, is this case of the word, the shape you make your mouth to blow) could be it. Do as though playing a shakuhachi - instead of meking the hole between your lips round, make it more of a flattish slot - "pucker and smile", some shakuhachi players say. And yes, try not to *blow* so much as simply *breathe* ^_^
Actually, Im getting a clearer 1st octave each day! But if I make my embouchure oval, I should I calculate the diameter? with an average value. And should I calculate an average value of the bore for conical flutes too?
@b4owulf - 'embouchure' - can refer to the hole in the flute that you blow across, or it can refer to the shape of your lips as you blow - I meant the latter in this case. Keep the hole in the flute round if you like... change the shape of the hole in your lips, is what I meant. Have your lips shape not so much a round hole, but more of a slot - that should help ^_^
Crap - did I just click 'block user' by mistake?? I sure hope not... damned changes... sticking that button right next to 'reply' - who's the unbelievable idiot who thought of that? And how can 'block' be undone?? I hope I didn't click that...
Is this overblowing tendency normal, or could it be nodal interference. If I want to make flutes bigger than40cm I normally get 3 nodes...thats the only bamboo I have. Ive seen flutes with more nodes and with very beautifull sound;ex: the shakuhachi(I don´t understand how they clean the bore so well in a flute thats not straight?). well, thanks for the explanation, you were of great help; )
@b4owulf Not a problem! ^_^ Mmm, yeah - they way they clean out the bore can be done a few ways... you could have a half-round rasp somehow attached to a long, thin stick of wood or metal (welded, glued, tied... ), or you could have a bit of sand stone on a string through it, pulling back and forth on the string, or you could have rough sand paper glued or taped to a dowel and use that... in the end, the bore is smoothed by adding 'urushi' - sort of thick, syrupy lacquer that hardens smooth ^_^
Thank u so much ! I ve searched for months for a good finish, and no one ever menshioned this "urushi". This is a great finish, and not only for flutes, but also for the bamboo mugs that I never did cause I never found a substance that was non toxic and protected bamboo from heat and water! I guess this finish is a lot better than polymerized tung oil. Now I only need to find out how and when to apply it. Thanks again : )
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Annygnr 2 months ago
@triumphanful - brilliant... thanx for your imput :P lol
rockfreakinsolid 5 months ago
Like OK! LIKE OK!!!!! LIKE????? what dude? OKOKOKOKOKOK! Oops forgot the UMMMMM! OHKAYYYY! You know what I'm saying? OKAY! OKAY! OKAAAAYYYYY!
triumphmanful 5 months ago
Party on wayne
nathansekul 8 months ago
@nathansekul - Party on, Garth!
rockfreakinsolid 8 months ago
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@rockfreakinsolid shwing! shwing shwing!!
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Way to go man, You give art a defined science. I love it. Im supposing the reed block adjusts for the altitude somewhat but not totally? I am new to this but you take chance and give it dimension. so i can now take my 3/4 in bore 25 in piece of bamboo and not take chances ruining it. 9 0f 10 split or bowed on me. Of the ten I got 1 good. id hate to ruin it now. lol..
talkingdeer61455 11 months ago
@talkingdeer61455 - Thanks humongously for the super-kind words! Uhm, I hope I don't sound like a complete ass here (lol), but I'm a wee bit confoozled... "reed block"? Do you mean the embouchure, or edge you blow across?
Bamboo... yeah - if you don't want it to split, try binding in in a few places, and then sealing it all over and within with a good shellac or something ^_~
rockfreakinsolid 11 months ago
to find out the exact length of the flute, the distance from where the air splits to the distal end, and where each finger hole is. (would that measurement be the center of the hole, or the proximal/distal side?) What throws me is the concept of cross-fingering, and blowing overtones. In my mind, cross-fingering makes no sense. If there's a place for the air to escape, it should take it right? And yet cross fingering is necessary for a chromatic scale. I just don't get it... HELP ME OUT MAN!!!!!
coyotecrow4 1 year ago
@coyotecrow4 - Yes, that would be to the fingering holes' centers. As far as cross-fingering, remember that the air escapes & re-enters (vibrates) in & out of the flute at the open fingering hole(s), the open end, & even the embouchure, all at the same time - also, the packets of energy/vibration within the bore, & their nodes and anti-nodes, are changing sizes & positions as you go up & down the scale. So, there's more variables in cross-fingering than just the holes - I hope this helps! ^_^
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
This is really cool! I'm an amateur flutemaker who's been constructing by set schematics and scaling up photos. This leaves me a bit limited in making flutes with more exotic scales, such as the Phrygian and Dorian modes. The styles I make are transverse, end-blown (like a shakuhatchi or a quena), fipple flutes(think tin whistle or recorder), and Native American style. So ehat you're saying is that given a specific diameter and style, one could use an equation to find out (read next comment)
coyotecrow4 1 year ago
i LIKE THE PART WHERE YOU SAID OKEH
Founditinadumpster 1 year ago
@Founditinadumpster - LOL
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
This is really going to help me with a science project. ^.^
RKJ1994 1 year ago
I ve looked at the blog post, but I don't understand how to put the formula. Could u please put down the formula so it's easier to apply?
b4owulf 1 year ago
@b4owulf - I hope you'll forgive me, but I really don't know how to put it simpler... like it says in the video and the blog post, you take the distance sound travels per second, divide that by the Hertz frequency of the note, and the answer is that note's wavelength... from there, it depends what kind of flute you're making - for the side-blown transverse flute in this post and others in the same week, the next thing to do is to divide that answer in half to get the flute's length ^_~
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
I'm sorry, I eventually got there(still got a carchoal working brain:/). But I wasn't clear on my first question. I wanted to know if u measure that distance from the open end or from the center of the mouthhole? By the way, what do u think of the 1:23 proportion for inside lenght/bore? Thanks for your help and hope some day I can make a reaaly huge flute like the one u made, but even better ;) eheheh
b4owulf 1 year ago
@b4owulf Charcoal? I'm still runnin' on rubber bands! ahahaha
Measure from the inner wall of the closed end to the open end. In truth, the end (the end of the total affected air column) actually reaches to beyond the open end by about 1/3 bore diameter, so subtracting that much more from the body makes it more accurate. Ex: 3/4" diameter flute, 1/2 wavelength measurement at 15" (for example), body should actually be 14 & 3/4" long to play that note ^_^
1:23 is OK - with skill, 1:28 can do!
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
But you'll want to keep the fingering hole which is the closest to the embouchure to be more than 10 or so bore diameters away from the embouchure, or you may run into nodal interference.
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
After reading your post I compared this method with another one I have from mark shepard. In the end the measurments are identical. So, the only thing that is lacking for me is practice! Another thing that bothers me, is that the root note and sometimes the 2nd note is very hard for me to get. I need to blow very gently or I loose it, sometimes I overblow it and I get the 2nd octave note. So I don´t if it is me that didn´t get the hang of it or if the flute is not well made!
b4owulf 1 year ago
@b4owulf It's probably a well made flute - perhaps your embouchure (that is, is this case of the word, the shape you make your mouth to blow) could be it. Do as though playing a shakuhachi - instead of meking the hole between your lips round, make it more of a flattish slot - "pucker and smile", some shakuhachi players say. And yes, try not to *blow* so much as simply *breathe* ^_^
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
Actually, Im getting a clearer 1st octave each day! But if I make my embouchure oval, I should I calculate the diameter? with an average value. And should I calculate an average value of the bore for conical flutes too?
b4owulf 1 year ago
@b4owulf - 'embouchure' - can refer to the hole in the flute that you blow across, or it can refer to the shape of your lips as you blow - I meant the latter in this case. Keep the hole in the flute round if you like... change the shape of the hole in your lips, is what I meant. Have your lips shape not so much a round hole, but more of a slot - that should help ^_^
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
Crap - did I just click 'block user' by mistake?? I sure hope not... damned changes... sticking that button right next to 'reply' - who's the unbelievable idiot who thought of that? And how can 'block' be undone?? I hope I didn't click that...
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
Is this overblowing tendency normal, or could it be nodal interference. If I want to make flutes bigger than40cm I normally get 3 nodes...thats the only bamboo I have. Ive seen flutes with more nodes and with very beautifull sound;ex: the shakuhachi(I don´t understand how they clean the bore so well in a flute thats not straight?). well, thanks for the explanation, you were of great help; )
b4owulf 1 year ago
@b4owulf Not a problem! ^_^ Mmm, yeah - they way they clean out the bore can be done a few ways... you could have a half-round rasp somehow attached to a long, thin stick of wood or metal (welded, glued, tied... ), or you could have a bit of sand stone on a string through it, pulling back and forth on the string, or you could have rough sand paper glued or taped to a dowel and use that... in the end, the bore is smoothed by adding 'urushi' - sort of thick, syrupy lacquer that hardens smooth ^_^
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
Thank u so much ! I ve searched for months for a good finish, and no one ever menshioned this "urushi". This is a great finish, and not only for flutes, but also for the bamboo mugs that I never did cause I never found a substance that was non toxic and protected bamboo from heat and water! I guess this finish is a lot better than polymerized tung oil. Now I only need to find out how and when to apply it. Thanks again : )
Thanks again, hope I
b4owulf 1 year ago
@b4owulf - Not a problem! :D
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
*GAWD*, how many times in ten minutes can I say the word "OKAY", eh? *SHEESH*!! ahahahaha Sorry, peeps! ^_~
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
No offence but 37 times.
AniRandosity 1 year ago
@AniRandosity :P LOL
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago
Awesome info man. Flutists should have to learn as part of their craft.
hawaiianflutist 1 year ago
@hawaiianflutist Thanx! ^_^
rockfreakinsolid 1 year ago