can you mate a double flared to a bubble flared line? I've got these fittings (male double flare) and (female fitting... looks like its for a double flare) , was hopping I didn't need a male to male union.
@marshkid1 I do a comination flare with thise, usually on the male side. You'll need a bubble flare kit in addition to a double flare to do this. First, make a bubble flare as normal. Then, with the line still in the bubble flare die, use the 45 degree ram from the double flare kit to complete it. I've done several this way, none have leaked.
I may make video of it, as some as I can scavenge an original one to show what I'm copying.
I'm having trouble with my brake lines. I make my flare but then my fitting won't slide down the line to the flare. It gets hung up around where the bottom of my die sat. How can I fix this problem?
@jhonea005 Sometimes the die will leave raised areas in the metal where it was clamped, similar to knurling a valve guide. You may need to do some ligth sanding around the area where the fitting goes to get it to slide down.
over tightening the diestock will screw up the line, never use vice grips and never over tighten the the diestock. this vidoe shows some thigs not to do when making flares
I have the same kit, and found that I got better results by sawing the tube instead of using a tubing cutter, work hardening perhaps? Filing the cut end dead square and de-burring is important.
He is wrong when he uses vice grips and crow bars to tighten the bar. You should tighten the screw closest to the size of the tube first, and then tighten the farthest screw, by hand.
@dgn1978 You are correct. However, the tool I'm using in this demonstration is almost 20 years old, and has worn out over the years. About the only way i can get it tight anymore is to do it as shown in the vid. It's also the reason i no longer use it. I now use a Blue-Point that I got from the Snap-On dealer. Much more expensive, but does a far better job.
Technicaly, you're not supposed to use tools to tighten the stock. However, I've found that it can be difficult to get good clamping force on the line just hand tightening the wingnuts. This is especially true if you're flaring a line that is on the vehicle that may either be dirty or in an awkward position. The reccomendations of the manufacturer are a good starting point, but real world conditions will dictate what really need to be done to make the tool work.
Sweet. I just picked up a flaring tool and I tried using it with not much sucess. I was watching another video made by a tool manufacturer and they recommend not using tools to tighten the stock. Is there any advantage to not using a tool to tighten the stock?
helpful video. I never fooled with double flare till a project required it. Also I didn't know know about the metric bubble flare till fooling with volkswagen dune bugggy.
GOOD DAMN RIGHT! AMERICAN TOOLS!!!
3tour 2 weeks ago
thanks man I cut some brake lines on a build and I was scary as shit
Pastrano88 1 month ago
Having gone to a tech college and not remembering how to flare lines made me feel stupid, thank you YouTube and you too sir
alakazam2929 3 months ago
can you mate a double flared to a bubble flared line? I've got these fittings (male double flare) and (female fitting... looks like its for a double flare) , was hopping I didn't need a male to male union.
Thanks muc
marshkid1 3 months ago
@marshkid1 I do a comination flare with thise, usually on the male side. You'll need a bubble flare kit in addition to a double flare to do this. First, make a bubble flare as normal. Then, with the line still in the bubble flare die, use the 45 degree ram from the double flare kit to complete it. I've done several this way, none have leaked.
I may make video of it, as some as I can scavenge an original one to show what I'm copying.
Longbox55 3 months ago
wake me up when you're done
2hatelibs1 3 months ago
I'm having trouble with my brake lines. I make my flare but then my fitting won't slide down the line to the flare. It gets hung up around where the bottom of my die sat. How can I fix this problem?
jhonea005 4 months ago
@jhonea005 Sometimes the die will leave raised areas in the metal where it was clamped, similar to knurling a valve guide. You may need to do some ligth sanding around the area where the fitting goes to get it to slide down.
Longbox55 3 months ago
AMERICA! Fuck Yeah! USA USA USA! Iz da bestest!
unlockthepower 6 months ago
very informative video. thanks for sharing.
alev8 7 months ago
your a genius...thank you sir. Now its time to go buy a cheap kit at Harbor Freight and start flaring some brake lines for the 71 Camaro :)
J71CHEVY 10 months ago
I knew a Prostitute Named Long Box.. HAHA joking.. Thanks for the upload
juicyjuicejosh 1 year ago
Thank you for a really helpful video.
m10surf511 1 year ago
my mechanic just lost out on $200, i love youtube, i forgot how to use my flaring kit, thanks for the mental refresh.
russtty911 1 year ago
To those trying to repair your own--"This Video is VERY Informative"-EXCELLENT INFO. Just listen and follow what Longbox says. (Thanks LongBox)
PartyAnimalCole99 1 year ago
over tightening the diestock will screw up the line, never use vice grips and never over tighten the the diestock. this vidoe shows some thigs not to do when making flares
KevinMillard68 1 year ago
...gotta love the welding flash all over the vise grips (looks just like mine).
The1Norm 1 year ago
im re doing the brakes on my lifted rusty bronco 2 this came in handy
jessiejames2012 1 year ago
great video homie
jpaez15 1 year ago
I have the same kit, and found that I got better results by sawing the tube instead of using a tubing cutter, work hardening perhaps? Filing the cut end dead square and de-burring is important.
binnsh 1 year ago
Great video! Thanks
JSams 1 year ago
3:05
I with you LB
Oakles22 1 year ago
great vid ! i was clueless untill i watched your vid, thank you
mustang21976 1 year ago
He is wrong when he uses vice grips and crow bars to tighten the bar. You should tighten the screw closest to the size of the tube first, and then tighten the farthest screw, by hand.
dgn1978 1 year ago
@dgn1978 You are correct. However, the tool I'm using in this demonstration is almost 20 years old, and has worn out over the years. About the only way i can get it tight anymore is to do it as shown in the vid. It's also the reason i no longer use it. I now use a Blue-Point that I got from the Snap-On dealer. Much more expensive, but does a far better job.
Longbox55 1 year ago 4
Thanks.
AlwaysHopeful87 1 year ago
Buy American! :)
nickalusneil 1 year ago
@nickalusneil
So true.. buy american!!
Raven60618 1 year ago
Thank you for your video. It was very informative and I appreciate your time. Larry
happygmoni 2 years ago
Yep, can be difficult first time you do it, my advice would be to practice a couple of time before you do it. great vid thanks.
rogerfalker1 2 years ago
Thank you very much! Really helpful video!
cyberbotzero 2 years ago
Technicaly, you're not supposed to use tools to tighten the stock. However, I've found that it can be difficult to get good clamping force on the line just hand tightening the wingnuts. This is especially true if you're flaring a line that is on the vehicle that may either be dirty or in an awkward position. The reccomendations of the manufacturer are a good starting point, but real world conditions will dictate what really need to be done to make the tool work.
Longbox55 2 years ago 2
that is so fucking true
mazdarx7head 1 year ago
Sweet. I just picked up a flaring tool and I tried using it with not much sucess. I was watching another video made by a tool manufacturer and they recommend not using tools to tighten the stock. Is there any advantage to not using a tool to tighten the stock?
TheNewfrewelian 2 years ago
helpful video. I never fooled with double flare till a project required it. Also I didn't know know about the metric bubble flare till fooling with volkswagen dune bugggy.
ThX for sharing
SWD2263 2 years ago
This video helped a lot.Thanks.
modwickman 2 years ago