How to decarbonise a Lister D type - Part 3 - getting it running

[chrix2]

You have inspired me to do some work on my D. I have had it since I was 6 years old (20 years ago) and restored it in 2003, but today I decided to adjust the ignition timing, but then ended up with the head off and a new gasket & grinding paste on order!

[steamwally]

Thats good to hear!

For most engine nuts it seems the humble "D" is the starting point, and what better to learn on!

Good luck with the rebuild, let me know how it goes.

Regards,

Phill.

[chrix2]

@steamwally in a couple of your videos I'm sure I heard you talk about sealing fuel tanks internally. What do you use for this?

[steamwally]

Hi there. before sealing them internaly you really need to solder up any holes that you can see. I sand tanks right back to bare metal and then hold them up to the light, that allways shows up the pin holes.

Once soldered, use a "slosh around" tank sealant, you can buy this on the net. Pour a little in and wash it round. Stick in the airing cupboard for a few weeks and do a second layer....after a month of hardening it should be good to go.

Phill.

[enginelover1]

What is the number of the fieler gague pls? Nice settijg

[steamwally]

0.4 of a mm.

[enginelover1]

@steamwally Thanks

[ooldschooll]

I never worked on anything like a Lister but after watching this series I would not hesitate giving it a go. Great work on the motor as well as the video.

[steamwally]

Thanks very much :)

[mrstuart143]

that starts as quick as mine dose. 

[hanomagman]

Great video!

good work you've done!

She runs and sounds very good!

[steamwally]

Thank you :)

[Bevoin1970]

Excellent, and again very educational, especially for a new bloke to Lister D such as myself.

Q - is 0.015" the correct gap for the tappets? are both tappets the same setting? only some times inlet and outlet differ by a few thou. Im not at this stage just yet. :-)

Also any idea roughly when the contact breaker points open up in relation to TDC

Always nice to hear an engine fire back up after a strip down, very satisfying to hear, especially if your the bloke thats done it. Sounds great my end.

[steamwally]

Glad you enjoyed it.

The correct tapet clearence is listed a 0.031" but many people concider that to be too great a gap and set much less, 0.015 should give you less chattering from the tapets and will make the engine run quieter, nothing worse than sitting next to a noisy D all day, you will see what I mean if you start rallying!

For timing you should fine a little spark mark like a lightning bolt on the flywheel. If not, about 15 degrees BTDC Thats 2" before the TDC mark on a 12" flywhee

[Bevoin1970]

@steamwally 0.030" seems excessive clearance to me, thats well over half a millimetre, no wonder they rattle.

My old cars used to be around 0.008" and you could hear those rattle.

Thanks for the info, I shall look out for the lightning strike on my flywheel, which is still warm, just picked it up from the welders, cost me £25 and now needs a little bit or work to remove the excess weld. :-)

Onwards and upwards...

[steamwally]

Progress then!

Have fun ¦)

[chox2001]

great video I expect this one will be about for some years and help out many enthusiast, I for one will certainly be pointing people in the direction of this series .

well done

[steamwally]

Thanks, I hope it will be of use to people, thats the plan :)

[strikeronetuber]

There she blows again!

You've done a great work on that Lister mate, congrats ;)

[steamwally]

Thanks very much, it's allways satisfying to see them run after work.