Rock Climbing Anchors : How to Use the Top Rope to Repel in Rock Climbing

[gssg9]

The British Mountaineering Council and the Scottish Mountaineering Council and International Mountaineering Council all advocate 1 locking binar. If its a top rope climb that's going to be used more than a couple of times then use two but this isn't needed. If your locking binars are shaking loose bin them or turn them around so it has to un thread up the way.

[Theclassifused]

I'm under the impression that a lot of rock climbers have big ass ego's. It seems that every video I find on the topic has more dislikes then likes. This is most likely because there are many people who have big ego's who are all, 'Oh I'm more experienced. I am bomb and winning like charlie sheen, therefore I must dislike this because my head is really far up my ass.' Just a guess though. I could be wrong. It could just be that ever rock climber that posted shit is sucks. But I dont think so.

[Hawkman6788]

Thanks good Info

[SuperGlobetrotter123]

noobvillage.

[gangsterchoad1]

Hi im gonna back up two bolts because two inst enough to hold my body weight

[johngo6283]

Among many other questionable techniques in this video . . . PLEASE learn how to spell rappel! Spelling this word wrong undermines your so called knowledge of the sport.

Also, I can resist . . . the chains on the bolt anchors are for rapping from. You do not need to add all the webbing. Rapping at most creates a force of 1.5 kn (about 300 lbs) so rap anchors do not need to be super strong.

[pigglesworth000]

I'm a fairly beginner trad climber but, by my understanding, this anchor is not remotely equalized as he claims. A pre-equalized anchor would have a huge overhand knot (or something similar) for a master point connecting all the runners. A self-equalizing redundant anchor would have at least 2 runners through all of the anchor points and sliding X's between each anchor. I've read several, fairly technical books on the issue of anchor-building and it's clear this guy isn't an expert.

[snowyywwinters]

this isnt that unsafe! its not ideal but its not that bad! people that saying its so unsafe and hes going get someone killed are stupid, people shouldnt climb if they cant think for themself! try headpointing if you think this is not safe;), climbing is only as safe as you want it to be!

[saldanajoel]

And FYI...this is NOT a death triangle, get your facts right.

[saldanajoel]

Hard to be absolutely certain based on the video, but this setup looks fine to me. The blue runner is just used as a last resort and therefore I'm sure is the reason why it's not completely equalized. The main two runners look fine though. Only two things I would do different...first, definetely have to beaners at the master point, second, I would have figure eights on each end of the runners, just to have a little more redundancy.

[EvanED]

Hmmm, I wonder if that counts as triaxial loading of the biner at the point there.

[simon2133]

nope

[buschrpm]

If the bolts are big enough...the locking biners must be placed on the bolts, not on the chains, the last link of the chain is used to run the rope to rappel when you're done. second... use webbing or cordalette to equalize the anchor, third: always two locking binners at the power point.

[EvanED]

I'm pretty new to climbing, esp. outdoors, but I've done a ton of reading recently... I haven't seen anyone advocate two locking caribiners at the power point. "Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills" seems to suggest one locking biner, with I think a mention of the option of two non-locking (opposite & opposed). Craig Luebben's "Rock Climbing Anchors" agrees with that, as apparently Craig Connally's "The Mountaineering Handbook."

[EvanED]

I should also clarify by saying that this is the case if you do either a self-equalizing or pre-equalized "gather everything together and make a bigass knot" setup, where there is one clip-in point to the webbing/cord on the anchor points.

Luebben's book at least discusses situations where you don't gather all the webbing/cord together, have a couple different clip-in points, and in that situation separate locking biners for each point are shown.

(The first technique remains valid though.)

[IFartJesus]

AMGA Recommends two locking biners at the master point for toproping. The specific reason is that unless it's an autolock, the locking sheath can rattle open while climbing from all the movement, and your not there to monitor it unlike a belay station. I've spoken with a guide who has seen it happen. It's just safer.

[iolairjames]

i admit one power point not good, but there's no death triangle here. This will work, but is far from ideal. I also disapprove of the spacing of the webbed anchor from the others and equalized, thats a joke.

[jbnwc]

That is NOT equalized!! These vid's are going to get someone killed. Please take them down.

[cuttingman6969]

how about you make all new videos and post them for those of us who do not know how but want to learn . I'd love to take a class but no one in my area seems to want to teach anyone what they know instead they post comments like yours.

[jbnwc]

I don't think a video is a good way to learn how to do something like rock climbing where your life literally hangs from a rope. IMO, it is best to take some classes(I learned in college) and/or go out with some experienced people. You should be able to find a rock wall or gym where people can teach you proper techniques. DOING is the best way to learn this subject. Almost all of these 'expertvillage' videos - on any subject that I'm familiar with - are marginal at best.

[frictionless1]

Check out the j-arms frictionless descender. Search for j-arms on You Tube. This device is unreal. There is nothing like on the market today. There is always an easier solution.

[climberdad]

I am BRAND new to the sport...what he did looked to be safe. Can you guys please go over the DONTS of what is goiong on in this vid.

I agree that it is VERY irresponsible to post a "how to" vid  when it comes these matters.

I have mastered the "BASICS" of tree climbing...now its time to expand my horizons.

[thetree21220]

aka the death triangle...wow this guy is an idiot

[monkeyfist29]

That was shocking! Anyone attempting to use these videos as learning tools...DONT!

Go to a centre located near you and get qualified training and assistance. Unless you want to kill yourself or a friend!

[cuttingman6969]

again always the same comments get training from a qualified personnel ...... since there's nothing in my area my only option is at the local crags but there no one wants to except or is afraid of liability and won't give the time of day and help us beginners learn.

[moosmann12020]

mother of GOD. PLEASE, I'M BEGGING YOU. Take these videos down and re-shoot them properly. You're going to get people hurt/killed.

[coolcat83]

yikes, bad loading on your power point biner, and only one

[truello]

You're videos are very repelling.