How To Apply A Tung Oil Based Finish - SOLID WOOD DOOR SERIES - Video 4

[SilverFoo79]

Probably the best educated stain video I've seen to date on youtube. Tell me.. can you use these same techniques on say.. a raw maple drum shell? (north american rock maple)

[askwoodman]

@SilverFoo79 It would work wonderfully on hard maple. I have put it on hard maple more times than I can remember with nothing but fantastic results. Check out the 1st video in the Plywood Box Series to see the maple doors in my kitchen (12 years). I have brushed hundreds of gallons of this stuff and it is the only foolproof simple low tech finish that yields pro results I have ever found. And the finish can be indefinitely freshened up if need by the solvent nature of the product.

[SilverFoo79]

@askwoodman That's great! What would you recommend for a high gloss finish after the tung oil was applied? something that breathes.. so as it won't 'choke' the shell, or the resonance..I know Nitro is the standard for guitars and high end drums.. but.. what do you think?

[askwoodman]

@SilverFoo79 With all Waterlox products the Original Medium Sheen is ALWAYS used as a base coat sealer. It is what I use 80-90% of the time as my complete finish. But after 2-3 coats of Original you can apply their High Gloss which is just off the charts fantastic. Remember these finishes are mainly used as floor finishes, they are that tough and elastic. One of my next series up is a mahohany book matched TV components cabinet with the Original/High Gloss finish. Gorgeous look!

[GingerDodson]

I love your videos. You have been so helpful. I have found some pine ( I think ) floors under a ton of nasty layers of flooring. I finally got them all sanded down (whew) and have been looking at stain and top coats. I came across your video and now I think I want to do it your way! Is it okay to use this on pine? I really don't know a thing about refinishing floors but I really liked your way. Do you have a place where I can get faster feedback on some questions that I'm sure I will have?

[askwoodman]

@GingerDodson You may write me at askwoodman @ gmail. Waterlox works great on pine. After you write me I will send my phone # and we can have a chat about your project.

[executivesteps]

Nice helpful videos - thanks. But I need to comment on one thing. Drying times of oil based paints and finishes are not affected by humidity. The oil vapors are 'transparent' to ambient H2O humidty levels and don't 'know' the water vapor is there or how humid it is. Partial pressures and Dalton's Law from Chemistry pretty much make that case.

Drying times of acrylic and other water based finishes ARE affected by humidity - but not oil based coatings.

[MonkeyManBlues]

You've convinced me that Waterlox is the way to go. I'm going to be doing basswood.  Would that look nice enough with just the Waterlox, or would you suggest staining before?

[askwoodman]

@MonkeyManBlues Well basswood is almost pure white. Because of the soft fibrous nature it will stain really well. What is it you are making out of basswood? Are you a carver? Let me know if I can offer any finishing insight.

Thanks for commenting. Allan

[MonkeyManBlues]

@askwoodman I'm making an electric bass guitar, but I'd like to keep a light honey look to the wood. I'd also like it to be as 'natural' as possible. Thank you for spending the time on answering my questions.

[hordeache]

This dude reminds me of someone on crack...so into it - apply 7 coats because he just enjoys it i reckon...

[askwoodman]

@hordeache Please keep your offensive douche bag comments off my channel or I will block you.

[BADBRYZ]

Did an SKS stock with True-Oil. 7 coats ish too. Definitely worth it!!!

[jnr7510]

ok thanks i have one more thing to ask. what grit sandpaper shou i use between coats? I have never used this stuff so i dont know much about it. Thanks for your help

[jnr7510]

can i use waterlox over stain? the resion i ask is that i dont want to use poly. So i am looking for something else.

[askwoodman]

@jnr7510 Yes Waterlox can be used over stain without any problems or worry. Just build up a 2-3 coats before you scratch to make sure you do not break through your stained wood surface.

[jjppmm69]

Dog head appears at 1:18. Dog head disappears at 1:18. Then the squeaky toy at 1:27! First time I heard that I looked around me to see if my little Dobie had her tennis ball squeaky toy until I realized it was in the video!

[BADBRYZ]

@jjppmm69 Yea dog head!!

[askwoodman]

@gliksmar Stain conditioner part 2. You apply the stain/finish while the conditioner is still wet so the conditioner acts as a vehicle to carry the stain/finish deeper and more uniformly into the wood fibers. Since the conditioner has so much mineral spirits in it, the fumes from the evaporation will be very strong. Please protect your health by wearing a new organic vapor respirator.

[askwoodman]

@gliksmar A stain conditioner is just penetrating liquid that is very viscous that help pull the stain particles evenly into wood pores. This is especially important with difficult to stain woods like pine. There are premade conditioners that are available, but I generally make my own. In your case I would mix about 20% of your tung oil stain with 80% mineral spirits. You would simply apply an even coat to

a section of floor then immediately apply your stain finish.

[askwoodman]

@gliksmar If it is a tung oil product, I am sure it will harden just fine. Of the natural seed oils tung oil is by far the hardest and most durable. Pure tung oils, with no drying agents are problematic in my opinion. The other really good thing about using a tung oil based product is that at any pont in the future you could reapply more finish after a thorough cleaning to remove scratches. Tung oil finishes are slow cure so try not put heavy traffic too soon.

[askwoodman]

@gliksmar I want to help, but I am not sure I understand completely what the full situation is. Pine is very tough to stain evenly. Is your stain or tint mixed in with your

tung oil finish or did you stain separately? Are you familiar with the idea of a stain

conditioner? Give me more information please. What brand of product are you using? Send me pictures if you think it will help to askwoodman@gmail.com. Best

regards. Allan

[chromlic]

what kind of a squeaky toy does your dog have? thank you for all the good information in all your videos.

[askwoodman]

@chromlic Thank you for the positive comment. I have many more videos close to being ready for the site. It is funny you heard my dog's squeaky toy. I am not sure which one he had. They are in the house, in the yard and in my shop. I don't like stepping on them while barefoot in the dark. Thanks again. Allan

[chromlic]

@askwoodman i will be installing rustic red oak flooring from lumber liquidators very soon, it is unfinished and while searching the user reviews i found tung oil. ive never heard of this finish and will be using it, i bought minwax's product and i already have 3 coats on my sample peice. i really like how its turning out. im looking for a floor that has both lite and dark boards, other than buying an exesses of wood and finding all the beat boards, do you have any sugestions.

[askwoodman]

@chromlic I have not used Minwax's tung oil product because I am a Waterlox man. But I did a little research online and saw the Minwax is not explicitly recommended for floors. Please do not go to all the trouble and expense of putting down a wood floor and then finish it with a product that may not hold up as well as it should. I am not sure I understand the second part of your comment. Perhaps sort the material roughly by color and make some basic sq ft calculations so you know what you have.

[askwoodman]

@chromlic If for example you were putting down 1000sf, and you have 50% light, 25% dark, and 25% very dark. I would just lay out a quick 100sf to get a feel for the pattern that will look best for the actual install. A little forethought and visualization can save in the long run. And with the material sorted the install will be smoother, instead of digging through bundles for dimension and color. Feel free to write back. Best regards, Allan.

[nomorejournos]

Hello I'm working with Spruce wood, I might have either 2 different kinds of spray paint or stain on it, haven't decided yet.

Just wondering how well tung oil would work over spray paint and stain?

Are there any problems with bubbles that would require wet sanding inbetween coats?

And how many coats would be appropriate for the thirstiness of Spruce (I need a nice glossy smooth-to-the-touch finish)

-Thanks

[askwoodman]

@nomorejournos

Please note that Waterlox is specially processed tung oil product. Pure tung oil is a mess to use because it will not dry. You will have no bubble problems with Waterlox unless you apply it in direct bright sunlight which should never be done with any finish. As I clearly explain in my other videos, (see video response) I apply 2-3 coats between scratching but never use wet paper because it is so much work to clean up rather than sanding with no load or open coat paper.

[askwoodman]

@nomorejournos

As to the number coats, it depends on how much you are applying per coat. My videos show me using Waterlox Original which is 25% solids. But you can build a finish faster using Waterlox High Gloss because it is 35% solids. But the original is always used as a base penetrating coat for reasons I explained in the videos. Just remember to not use pure tung oil because it will just be a sticky mess.

Feel free to leave another comment if this doesn't answer your questions.