Added: 8 months ago
From: EEVblog
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  • Amazing! You have the hands of a surgeon.

  • Thanks for the video! I used the method on a LIS331DLF (3mm x 3mm LGA16)

    It worked great. I used the 0.1mm diameter strands from a multi-strand wire.

    Here's the pic: bit.ly / zFe9ra

  • I like technique, but isn't putting a 3 axis accelerometer upside down a problem? At the least, you'd have to change your Z axis code later I would think.

  • Really good mod, i've used this method on a small BGA package, takes alot of patience and loads of flux, hey dave have you ever tried using silver kynar wire ? it makes for a great looking result :)

  • now try doing the same thing with ADXL312 chip. Good luck ;) its in LFCSP 32 pin package

  • Well done Dave, love your videos

  • Good :) I'm going to do this in a few days: just gotta get some fine solder.

    Thank you, Dave!

  • @GiorgioCapocasa Update: I've just made it :D

    The joints are not nearly as smooth as the ones in the video, but the thing definitely works :)

    Thank you, Dave!

  • @GiorgioCapocasa Glad to hear it worked for you!

  • i learn so much by watching your vids. thanks!

  • Thanks! Very usefull technique; I should of thought of it.

  • Is it possible to get a smaller soldering iron? Or are they not advantageous ?

  • These tutorials are the best

  • It doesn't need to be pretty, just conductive.

  • This is so cool! Great work! Keep it up!

  • You can PIC your AI's, you can PIC your smoke detectors, but you can't PIC your friend's brain.

  • What about the risk of overheating the darn thing. Or did you pause between soldering the individual pads?

  • what did you use to cut it?

  • I usually prefer 0.15mm enamelled wire for point to point on board connections - unless they carry a lot of current of course. The enamel can be taken off with a drop of molten solder (enamel smoke, don't breathe it) even in very short lengths and the rest of the wire stays isolated.

  • I use double sided tape instead of super glue so it's less destructive on the board when further mod is require.

  • The only thing bad about dead-bugging an accelerometer is remembering to reverse your axes in your code for production boards!

  • Dave, somehow I think you make it look easier than it actually would be. :-)

    Also, what will you be looking for when you look at the work under your scope? The only dead bugs I have ever made are on the floor of my garage.

  • Excellent vid Dave! Thanks for showing us how its done.

  • Wow Dave!! That was the best soldering performance I have ever seen! I want to do some soldering now!! Thank you for showing us how to solder like pro/man!

  • @gabrielfinol That was a pretty hack job of soldering, but it works. Watch SolderingGeek's videos for pro work.

  • what temperature would you recomend doing this at?

  • Did you know you can get LGA-to-DIP adaptors for these things?

  • They should really consider making DIP versions of their stuff for prototyping and hobbyists.

  • Why are electronics solders usually tin-based, anyway?

  • @Desmaad Cheaper than other materials. Can combine with with other metals well and produce a good melting point. Decent strength. Just works right,  I guess.

  • 1st video of Dave soldering something.

  • What soldering iron did you use in this blog? Was it that hakko from the previous video?

  • Surface-Mount solder components... Always a pain to work with :D

  • I think is worth mentioning to not touch the soldering iron into the super glue.. the vapour is very eye-irritant! Here the little fan blowing through the table shows its value :)

  • I have trouble just soldering normal sized components onto strip-board, if that was my hand in the video it would be shaking and there would be solder everywhere!

  • @CampKohler Schmartboard makes those, but from what I've seen, they're only really good for packages that have exposed leads, because they don't really get underneath the chip.

  • Doesn't someone make little pre-tinned adaptor boards that would accept SMDs so that you could just run your soldering iron down the row and connect to the chip installed in the normal way? The you could solder wires to the board.

  • Why do you (meaning all the other countries in the world except US) use AWG? Will you use it forever, or will there be "metric wire" someday? Have your own standards organizations adopted it, or is it just used by default? 

  • You are the man, Dave! Love your videos.

  • I really enjoyed this video. Please continue to do more practical "technique" lessons like this in the future!

  • Thanks for tips Dave, I jsut have some questions:

    1- What was the temp of soldering iron in this work?

    2- keeping the iron that long does not kill the chip?

    3- would be nice to see your demo board in action to see what you are going to do with it!!

  • good vid Dave.

    one thing I have wondered about getting into electronics and soldering, why is the soldering iron so long..

    the active bit should be right in front of the fingers so the dexterity is much finer. pick up a pen in your hand and look at the proximity and control. classic human thoughtlessness that soldering irons are done same as always.

  • The only reason for discontinuing the easy to work with packages is a way to stop diy.

  • all your pin are upside down/inverted. i fucked up many project trying to rewire correctly.

  • Wow, Great Job Dave, you are really a machine at this. and now i should get my self some 30 awg wire, smallest i have in solid core is 22, quite a bit bigger.....

  • Thanks Dave, love this prototype videos, thumps up!

  • Dont forget about the fact that the data from the acc. Is now inverted!

  • That would have taken me hours to do and would have been a mess. That is skill that can only be gained with expearence. One day I will bother with SMD, but I will always prefer dip.

  • Nice one ! You don't clean the rosin? It look a bit messy with all that flux residu at the end.

  • Comment removed

  • @ZitroOgu Rosin flux doesn't need to be cleaned. The solder I use Kester 44 a rosin core solder specifically states in the datasheet cleaning of the flux residue is optional. It may not look pretty but it's fully functional.

    However certain non rosin fluxes that are water soluble may REQUIRE cleaning otherwise they will corrode the board. Always check the datasheet for your solder.

  • Nice video Dave, I'm really digging the increased video posting rate of late, please keep it up!

  • I would rather do adapter using toner transfer method. These packages are comparatively easy to use.

  • ok dave i love the idea but what about us cafeen adicts out there ( in otherwords) how do you not shake a 6 inch long soldering iron at that size.. and how do you get a tip that small hot enough....

    not to minchen where do i get a tip that small O.o

  • @Zagroseckt That tip isn't small, it's pretty huge, standard several mm chisel tip, but as you can see more than good enough for the job. I have much smaller tips. I have a pretty steady hand, but this is not a really small job, so should be doable by almost anyone. More shaking apparent in the video than I'd usually have, trying to talk, think, and solder and do it all while under the camera through the LCD screen.

  • @Zagroseckt You can keep your little finger on the table to keep your hand steady. It really does work. It's almost like rotating your wrist with your little finger on the table using it almost like a hinge.

  • Nice one Dave!

    I made a mistake this week in getting a sample solar charge controller chip from Linear (LT3652) in a DFN 12 (3 x 3 mm) package.

    I'm thinking that I might not have the skills to do anything with this,

    but thinking about strategies I seem to remember that some snooker players use beta-blockers for 'steadiness'. Maybe I'll have to source some of them first :-)

  • So let's say it needs a decoupling cap close to it... how would you add that to the chip?

  • @ubuntututorials

    If this is really critical, i would glue the ic on an copper cladded board as a ground plane and solder the capacitor next to it. If it´s less critical, I just try to solder it as close as possible.

  • @hmpeter Yes, copper clad board works great for critical stuff. I covered that a bit in the GSM phone tutorial I think.

  • @ubuntututorials I'd use a small leaded ceramic direct from pad to pad on the protoboard. Direct pad to pad on top of the chip itself if it was really important.

  • Great skils :D

  • Warning: foreign users are subject to getting an Australian accent and excessive eyebrow expressions. Believe me, now I have Dave's voice stuck on my mind.

  • @ivaneduardo747 I hereby accept absolutely no responsibility for long term psychological damage resulting from watching this blog. Viewers watch at their own risk :->

  • @EEVblog I so much prefer your MAYBE slightly over-animated style of narration to that of people who make videos and just mumble through them. People who complain should go watch some of the old TI lecture videos (they're getting better) :)

  • A DaveBonding machine in action ;-)

  • @zaprodk Trademark? :->

  • Great blog. It is always awesome to see you doing practical stuff. I am very curious about part II and III of your soldering tutorial; I can't hardly wait...

  • dave, would like to see how you interface to the pic, maybe you could do that as a seperate detailed blog ?

  • someone should make a dip converter adapter for these

  • @chandin69 I've seen these accelerometer chips on DIP boards. And you can get DIP adaptors for most chips, but can't say I've seen an LGA-14. But I wanted to do it then and there!

  • Nice!

  • Comment removed

  • great, I got an accelerometer a couple of weeks ago to play around with. I was going to make a little interface board to surface mount it onto, but I'm gonna give this a try :)

  • Comment removed

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