Added: 2 years ago
From: aonomus
Views: 5,504
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  • Hi! Very interesting to see that ists working well.

    I will try this soon myself, now looking for a motor controller that can handle 24 volts or more, and does not cost millions ;)

    The best part of this all is that the alternators can be had for cheap, used, and they are very rugged.

    I think you can build a constant current source for the rotor, not too difficult.

    I guess you need high rotor current to get a good startup torque, right? At higher RPM the rotor current should be lower.

    Richard

  • A constant current source is easy, just use a BJT and vary the current flow into the base using a voltage reference and a current sense resistor feeding into a comparator... roughly at least.

    Startup torque isn't high, but at 12V not much can be said anyway. I can't afford a bigger ESC, so for now this is as far as this project goes. Post your result as a reply to this video when you get it running.

  • This is really, really nice! I'm thinking of doing something similar to beef up the motor to my mini lathe, and it's nice to see that it's possible to get the alternator moving.

    Did it take much to modify the rotor slip rings to make a continuous coil? And what voltage/current is the rotor winding taking?

    Anyhow; really nice work! Nice to know you get first video hit on google when you plug in the search terms I just used?

  • Well, I'm surprised I got the first hit, cool to know.

    Second, the slip rings are solid, they do not act as a commutator. If you open an alternator up, you will see. I simply removed the rectifier/voltage regulator module, and kept the brush assembly. Usually the brush assembly is replaceable since the part does wear out over time (but very slowly).

  • (Continued)

    I would recommend taking a look at what type of alternator you have, the most common are the 10SI/12SI and the CS130 types, and are also the easiest to modify.

    Finally, for a lathe, this motor might not work too well unless there is significant speed reduction. The motor and driver are meant for high speed, low torque. High torque on the actual motor means high current, and the speed controller is pushed harder. Also without airflow, the motor will overheat.

  • To power a ESC you only need to apply 5VDC between black and red (black = GND, Red = +5V).

    Otherwise, you can find cheap servo testers that include the BEC to supply 5V regulated.

    I don't know why you want to use an alternator converted to a motor, to turn another permanent magnet generator. If you have the power to run this motor, running it back into a generator wastes energy.

  • I am trying to do the same thing. I am using the Phoenix HV45 ESC. This ESC should give you about 2.3Kw@50Vdc. The only problem is it does not have BEC. I don't know what to use other than a R/C for that a servo adjuster will not work in this case. Do you have any suggestions?

    I am going to use my "hybrid" alternator to turn a PMA for backup power.

  • @edbenjamin You could buy a Castle Creations BEC which will run off of 12v.

  • can you get atleast one hp out of it?

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