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From: AsktheBuilder
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  • hi i want to know ,my pilot light ,dont stay on a high tempeture,but stay on a low tempeture ,if u cant help me ,please

  • @zavalza99 Change the thermocouple.

  • Would you suggest a few carbon monxide alarms / detectors fitted in the basement and around the home... maybe if folk could stretch it.. dump the old gas water heater... and go for a 'electric' Hybrid Water Heater.. Just a idea as there could be stack up on pay back plus the Tax rebate... if your old gas heater is on the way out.....

  • @malachy1847 I've got quite a few columns at my website about this. Go read the ones about Tankless Water Heaters to get an in-depth analysis of payback times.

  • @malachy1847 Thanks for the 'Heads Up' regarding your website it's really informative and a credit to youu, as it takes the homeowners through so things but step by step educatingall of us, as you go.........[Maybe this is the wrong Forum but I was just wondering about the new next best thing being pushed by some Plumbing Contractors...those 'Electric Hybrid water heatertanks'.. the type that has a 'reverse cycle refrigerent compressor' mounted on top feeding a large hot water storage tank..]

  • YOU SAID!!!!! 

    @wgattuso I hate to tell you this, but the method you've been employing is very dangerous. In many states, it's illegal. If someone turns off both valves by mistake, the T&P valve fails, and the thermostat fails, the heater becomes a bomb. Water heaters explode with violent force every year here in the USA. By not having a valve on the HOT water side, the faucets become the secondary pressure relief point.

    WHAT STATES is it ILLEGAL!!!!! Your a handy man not a plumber!

  • @wgattuso Uh, it's pretty obvious you've not done your homework. I'm a master plumber. Go read my bio. Secondly, it's not my job to tell you what states it may or may not be legal in. If you're interested in that data, go look it up. If you understood basic Physics, you'd know that you'd NEVER want to put a valve on the cold and hot lines of a water heater. Okay, we're all ready now for your ranting. It's sure to come on your next comment. The one that will get deleted per my Comment Policy.

  • Why exactly you do NOT RECOMMEND installing a valve on the hot line as well ?

  • @vrejian Easy. Go to my AsktheBuilder website and read my past water heater columns. Your answer is there.

  • @vrejian You don't put a valve on the hot line because you need to allow for expansion... if the cold and hot side are colds, no where to expand to. Yes the T&P valve "should" open then, but it's not smart to rely on it.

  • A Di-electric union is a vast improvement over the old brass transition fittings, but one should be aware that the piping is no longer electrically continuous. The cold and hot metallic piping systems should be bonded to the main bonding jumper at the service disconnecting means. When a di-electric union is used, both systems need to be bonded. This is usually done at the water heater with clamps on both pipes and a continuous #4 or #6 to the ground rod and then to the service disconnect.

  • Just curious how much propane does it take to operate a month? (gallons). 

  • @WinterHaven I cover operating costs of water heaters at my AsktheBuilder website. Go find my Tankless Water Heater columns using my search engine. When you read all the comments and notes, it will blow you away how little fuel a gas heater can use.

  • @SPB282008 Truth be told it happens here in the USA each year. There are heaters that explode violently. You can look it up online.

  • My hot water tank gave out on me last night. :( I believe it was i had the temperature too high ( could that be a problem). I have a question what is the difference between a mobile home water tank and a traditional home?

  • @lillulu79 When you go to the water heater manufacturers' websites, you know Rheem, State, etc. and read the descriptions about mobile home tanks and regular domestic residential heaters, what exactly do they tell you? When you do this, please come back and share that with the rest of us.

  • Excuse what may be a stupid question - but why do you need a control valve on the cold line directly into the water heater?

    I have a control valve close to it - however it would shut off the entire water supply to the house - is it simply for convenience so you can isolate the water heater supply or is there something more to it?

  • @EvilCensor No such thing as a stupid question. Best part, you answered it. To isolate the fixture so you can work on it while the rest of the house enjoys cold water. It allows you to have water access in case you set the house on fire while soldering. :->

  • @AsktheBuilder - Thanks, really appreciate the fast reply - I had inadvertently omitted to add one even though I was advised I should (getting old and forgetful). It will now be put on the todo list, if I remember to make one :o)

  • My 50 gal water heater is not filling with water. Pilot light still lit -- water not coming out of hot water taps throughout the entire house. When cold water taps are turned on, water comes out of faucet okay. Tested drain, hooked up hose to empty. No water in it. Water line enter into the water heater is "on" position. One story home, no frozen pipes -- live in southwest. Home warranty company doing everything they can to NOT pay for repair. Please advise if possible!! Thanks!!!!

  • He said "have just one control valve on the water lines going in and out of the water live" but then said dont put one on the HW side. I am a plumber an I always put a valve on both sides. because when you replace the water heater, cold side, you dont have to shut the building down, and the HW side you dont have to drain the HW lines out of the house, when you get passed the T&P valve just open it up to get air flow.

  • @wgattuso I hate to tell you this, but the method you've been employing is very dangerous. In many states, it's illegal. If someone turns off both valves by mistake, the T&P valve fails, and the thermostat fails, the heater becomes a bomb. Water heaters explode with violent force every year here in the USA. By not having a valve on the HOT water side, the faucets become the secondary pressure relief point.

  • @AsktheBuilder Your saying if the t&p valve fails and the thermostat fails while having both hot and cold water valves off is a normal and almost an everyday occurrence. These are three things that have to happen in a perfect timing. You have a better shot at winning the lottery. Please let me know what state the plumbing code say "YOU CANNOT PUT VALVES ON BOTH THE HOT AND COLD WATER LINES ON A WATER HEATER" I live in NY with one of the strictest plumbing and electrical codes.

  • @wgattuso Put down the spiked egg nog. You need to be cut off. Where in the video do I say it's "almost an everyday occurrence"? Totally not true. The point is it's possible. Just Bing or Google water heater explosions and there are stories of water heaters that become intercontinental ballistic missiles. Seriously. Go back 25 years into the Journal if Light Construction to see photos of one that launched through the roof of a house from the basement.

  • Can you let me know why it's recomended to use a dialectric union or nipple on a water heater but the T&P valve is brass or copper directly connected to the tank and the drain valve is plastic? Local code does not allow pvc into a water heater but what is the drain valve made out of? Was'nt Galvanized used instead of copper years ago?

    I guess there will be some corrosion but after how long? My guess is the water heater will not outlast the pipes.

  • Nice Video... Great information.

  • I know no two valves

    but I have two any way

    on the hot pipe I put a wire to prevent from closing

    but when time comes to replace it then I will turn of gas valve then close both valves

    disconnect both pipes and drain the heater

  • Most new water heaters come with a new T.P valve, you do make a good point, Don't re-use the old one.

  • @dmiller531 True on that, my cousins water heater valve was used agian from the first unit, but it failed when an overheat occured, the only reason it didn't blow up is for some odd reason, the gas valve closed, having no relation to the tank pressure switch

  • Wait. all this about the water and gas exhaust. what about the actual gas coming to the heater? are there no regs on this?

  • the flue should surely rise at least 600mm before the first bend and be kept as vertically as poss before termination here in the uk that would'nt be allowed

  • is that double wall or single wall vent pipe cause it looks alot like dryer vent ?

  • Single wall. Why? It's perfectly legal as it vents into a masonry chimney.

  • ummm cause you can cook an egg on that thing and that creats a fire hazard

  • I guess you should get elected to the committee that writes that section of the building code if that's how you feel.

  • Depends what country or state you reside in.

    But a single wall vent connector into a chimney liner is to code. Along with other clearance and sizing restrictions of coarse. A water Heater is NOT something the home owner should do.

  • @silas132 I Installed mine...

  • @HUGGCLIFF As long as Type "C" pipe (single wall) is 9" from combustibles, it is perfectly safe and complies with the Plumbing Code.

    However did you determine that it was a fire hazard?

  • Good tip,

     I would like to know if the 100gal tank is enough for a duplex (2bed 1bath) Thanks

  • Should be.

  • good advice not so sure about that fle though

  • all i can say is make absoulty shure you are positive you know what your doing if installed incorrectly this cylinder will turn into a bomb that could through steam explosion wipe out at least half of a single story home and kill...it has happned in the past and it will happen in the future if un qualified people install these systems incorrectly...all i ask you is are you willing to risk you and your familys life for a cheep install...dont fool around ring a qualified plumber ensure your safety

  • You're correct about the power of a failed heater. I've seen photos of one that went through a roof. But if people follow the advice in this video, they'll be just fine. The two most important things are to NEVER install a valve on the outgoing hot water supply line and install a NEW pressure - temperature relief valve that MATCHES the specs that come with the heater. NEVER reuse a temp-pressure relief valve.

  • "NEVER install a valve on the outgoing hot water supply line"

    I would like to know the reason for it as

    I have a solar boiler on my roof and I placed a safety relief valve on the hot water out pipe, it is positioned upwards, like a y shape, using a t piece. (I hope I made myself clear)

    Thank you for sharing your video.

    Regards from Mexico

  • If you have valves on both the cold and hot-water lines, they're both CLOSED, the Temp and Pressure Relief Valve fails AND the thermostat fails, then the pressure inside the heater builds like an out-of-control boiler. You then, at some point, get a massive explosion.

  • @AsktheBuilder But even there is no such valve (close to the boiler), there still are the valves at the ends of the pipes at the bathroom for example. I see no big difference.

  • @jaryH3 The valves at a faucet are usually designed to leak at a much lower pressure than a ball valve at the heater.

  • @AsktheBuilder Oh yes. The pressure makes the force against the plug (if my terminology is OK), which is not the case of the ball valve. Thank you.

  • @JustAHumbleMumble

    Venting is wrong......

  • thansk for the video :)

  • I installed a new water heater a few years back and it had the pressure relief valve and heat saver nipples factory installed. It also came with pipe insulation. I later found out that New York state law required those items to be factory installed. It was one of those Home Depot GE water heaters which are actually made by Rheem.

  • What about that relief valve? It's soldered on...what to do??

  • Every one I've ever installed screws into the heater.

  • I have a question about the water connection sizes of the pipes on home water heaters... 3/4 inches is the standard size right?? do connection sizes go bigger than that??

  • Most just accept a 3/4-inch male fitting. You can feed it with a larger pipe and just reduce at the heater.

  • nice bro!!!

  • Where's your earthquake strapping?

  • Great question. We don't have earthquakes where this video was taped. I would say that 90 percent of the USA doesn't need those straps. And my college degree is in geology. I know they are code requirements in California and possibly Oregon and Washington.

  • Com'mon Tim, I'm a GUY, I don't actually READ instructions, I simply put them away until a real problem occurs....

    Seriously though, there are complete instructions and the manufacture did a wonderful job of explaining everything, right down to the size of each component. I now know how to do a first rate installation.

    Come to think of it, "How to Read the Manufacture's Instructions" would make another great video, don't you think?

  • Sensi Tim, I'm about to install a Rheem/Marathon Electric Water Heater. It has factory installed brass fittings and nipples.

    Am I correct in assuming that I do not need to use the di-elelctric unions?

    I'm also thinking of installing a gravity circulating system to provide near-instant hot water at the point of use. Thanks for that tip!

  • I was distracted for a moment? Did you bow? :-> Go over to the heater. See the plastic holder with the installation instructions? What do they say to do?????? Curious....

  • AsktheBuilder, If you get low hot water pressure in your house, what could be the problem and where is the source of this problem? I assume it is a blockage somewhere or build up of something in the pipes coming from the water heater. If I were to release pressure from the heater could this might help? and if so what is the correct steps in doing it. Thanks for this video.

  • I have several columns at my website about low water pressure. Go read them and see if you don't discover your issue.

  • To prevent the premature failure of valves from dezincification, most manufacturers now cast their valves using brass manufactured to particular specifications that control the percentage of zinc in the alloy (limited to 15%). This copper/zinc alloy is known as dezincification-resistant (DR) brass. Look for the letters DR on the brass valves you are working with, or some other indication that the brass is dezincification-resistant.

  • AsktheBuilder why dont you use a brass nipple into the cylinder and then a brass crox join thats what we use here in nz to attach pipes to our cylinders we have copper ,stainless and glass lined cylinders over here the brass we use here is DR rated which is dezincification-resistant. I rearly dont think rubber under continous heat preforms that well as it will perish over time,better to use a fibre washer i think,whats your thoughts on this?

  • I just showed what's used over here. Some plumbers here will use insulated nipples.

  • There is a company of many labels, here is what i found so if you need a new one PLEASE READ THIS---> The largest manufacturing operation in Ashland City, Tennessee is State Industries, (State Water Heaters) a division of AO Smith WPC, which fabricates A.O. Smith, State Industries, Reliance, American, Whirlpool, Kenmoore and Apollo water heaters. AO Smtih WPC is the largest manufacturer of water heaters in the United States. Pretty interesting!

  • Another interesting factoid. Home Depot years ago did an exit survey of customers. They asked who mad the best water heaters. A majority said: General Electric. GE had never made water heaters! Home Depot went to GE, asked to license their name to water heaters and then went to Rheem to have them made. If HD has GE water heaters, look closely at the label. It should say Rheem in the fine print.

  • did you ever watch any videos of my water heater issues i tried to do a video response on here but never worked i guess, could you take time to view those and let me know what you think?, thanks

  • Sorry, but I don't do consulting like that.

  • What do you mean by used it? If you used test lever and it reseated fine and doesnt drip you should be fine. If it went off by itself their might be other problems... if it is doing it alot I would replace it.. but yes I agree never reuse an old releif valve with a new install

  • after you use the safety valve do you have to replace the valve? i would really appreciate feedback and thanks for the upload this really helped alot.

  • Always install a new temp and pressure valve with each new heater. NEVER reuse one.

  • Awesome videos! I enjoyed them!

    My pilot light went out and wouldnt stay on. It was the thermocouple. Pretty easy fix,only costing me $6. I made a video of it.

    check out the video in my profile.

    again..thanks for all the videos! love em!

  • Thanks so much for all of your videos!

    I am going to install a new water heater this weekend and was wanting to know if you have any tips on getting the water heater into an attic. I have a folding staircase and the water heater is located 2 feet from the staircase.

  • Enlist some strong people. I hope you live in Southern Florida.... or some other place that NEVER gets freezing temperatures.....

  • Thanks, I live in Houston, Tx.

    I am going to get 1 strong friend and a strap hoist (come along) and put a 3/4 inch plywood on the bottom with rope on 4 corners and try to make a lift. Hope this works.

  • Mine failed about 3 weeks ago, where the bottom rusted out, and I had a massive leak. The installer did not use any fittings where you could unscrew it, it was all soldered in hard. I completely redid the plumbing in the room, and added two BALL vales, one for the main line since it was in the same room, and one on the cold side as I knew this already. Last installer used a hand turn valves, and the one on the main line broke closed. Also added a pan under the tank to direct any future leaks.

  • Hot water heater

    Why heat water that is already hot?

  • Thanks for pointing that out.

  • interesting,here in england we only use copper, brass or stainless steel fittings in domestic situations and our storage cylinders are made from either copper or stainless.We dont use iron fittings on hot or cold supplys.

    nice videos

  • Thanks! Sounds like you guys have a better system. As soon as the glass lining goes on our iron tanks, it is curtains.

  • Why no valve on the outlet side?

    Great, Great stuff on here. You've helped me more than you'll ever know.

  • Fantastic ? If both valves get turned off, the thermostat fails to shut off the burner and the T & P valve fails, the heater becomes a bomb. I have seen photos where one was launched from a basement like a rocket. It went through the first floor, then the roof and ended up in a yard hundreds of feet away. By not having a valve on the hot side, if the pressure builds, it can vent through a faucet.

  • This is "ok" but, please lift up the vent pipe that appears to be 4", it appears as though the draft diverter outlet is actually

    only 3" and you have a 4" vent on it. While I am not jumping up and down screaming violation I would suggest that a 3" vent (if indeed the mfg supplied a 3" outlet draft diverter) a 3" would provide a better conductor for removal of the cumbustible gases. Die Electic Unions are a JOKE, get out your continunity tester! LOL, your better off w/ a S.S. braided flex bro!

  • The vent pipe is 4 inches all the way to the chimney. The dielectric unions work really well. As for 3 inch as you recommend, you must do what the code says and what the heater mfr says.

  • Great job!!!

  • where's the earthquake strap?

  • Please read earlier comments.

  • I helped my neighbor replace his water heater a few weeks ago. I am glad I watched your video to refresh my brain before we did the job. Thanks for the great tips. BTW, how come you don't have any water heater earthquake straps like we do out here in California? :)

  • Jason,

    Because we live in a place that doesn't shake, rattle and roll as frequently as S. California. :->

  • also be sure to keep flammable liquids away from the water heater; even if something spills and the liquid itself doesn't touch the water heater the vapors are still present and can still ignite. raise heaters about 18" off the floor, unless its an FVIR(Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistance) water heater those should be fine.

  • Great advice. In many locations, raising the heater is a newer code requirement. Be sure to keep areas around new FVIR heaters clean. Dust bunnies, dirt, animal hair can interfere with air flow and cause heaters to malfunction.

  • because if you fit a valve to a hot water pipe it could be accidently turned off. if the heater is turned on pressure would build, have nowhere to go, and you can guess the rest. depending on your country or local regulations no flow pipe or vent pipe from any type of heater should have a valve fitted. in other words "the pipe is always open".

  • I love your show

    I need to repair/install a vent for my water heater, because the pipe rusted away and there is a rag in the hole. What is the mix/mortar made of that is used to seal the pipe in the hole and can I just put another pipe there without a professional install(such as the heater guy did on the furnace pipe in the pics; check my info)

  • Three parts sand to one part Portland cement. Make sure the chimney is free of obstructions befoer installing the new pipe. If in doubt hire a pro. This is serious stuff - carbon monoxide.

  • Yes I know the carbon monoxide risk is very high...I could smell the burning natural gas being vented into the basement...as we know you can't smell Carbon Monoxide...you're literally a lifesaver

  • It is a safety issue. If someone closes both valves AND the T & P valves malfunctions AND the gas burner thermostat malfunctions, you have a giant bomb. I have seen photos in JLC magazine where a water heater exploded and shot like a missile through a roof of a home landing two yards away. With no valve on the hot water line, super-heated water will leak through faucets relieving pressure

  • Thanks Tim for the tips about hooking up a new tank. I have not seen that type of hookup yet for the cold/hot lines to the tank, but on my new tank, I will installing this type of joint for easy release of old/new tanks.

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