I think you did a great job.Was this your first snare to build?If so you did a really good job for your first time.I do like how you used the plastic spacer strips to compensate for the shell being a little small.But might I suggest,replace the plastic strips with wood strip spacers and stain and seal them in a little different shade than the shell and it will make it stand out tremendously.But either way,I love your work.
Nice work Tom, I bought a Walnut shell for my snare and just fitted all the parts. I'd like to have a go at making my own shells though. I also love Smiley's videos! He is the master...
Nice drum. It's really too bad about the diameter being just a little off. I think you should put wood risers in to replace those plastic ones. It would look so much better. I'm sure it still sounds great. pls check out my channel for my padauk stave drum build.
you get the 9 degree angle by calling the 90 degree "Zero" it's then 9 degrees off that. btw: beautiful shell, but I'm wondering what the sound is like having even tension set on the bottom and top heads..? Did you have to use a a normal top head for the underside or is it just a super stretched bottom head? Hopefully, I'll have something up about the drum I'm making now. Using Mai Kelat which is a Malaysian wood. I live in Thailand, and there're few woods that can stand up to the weather
@blahblibidyblahblah thanks man. i have been tuning both heads pretty tight. sounds sort of like a chambers snare, but a little more resonant. i am using a resonant snare head but i cant remember which type. looking forward to your video.
Its all about the total change in direction. If you look at a square, the corners are made up of right-angles (90 degrees). 4x90=360. With a icosagon, each joint should change direction by 18 degrees. The 20 joins make up the full 360 change in direction (18x20=360). However, tmonozy has decided to bisect the angle and spread the angle across both pieces of joining timber. So each edge has been cut at 9 degrees. When you add the angles of the two pieces of joining timber, you get 18 degrees.
Its all about the total change in direction. If you look at a square, the corners are made up of right-angles (90 degrees). 4x90=360. With a icosagon, each joint should change direction by 18 degrees. The 20 joins make up the full 360 change in direction (18x20=360). However, tmonozy has decided to bisect the angle and spread the angle across both pieces of joining timber. So each edge has been cut at 9 degrees. When you add the angles of the two pieces of joining timber, you get 18 degrees.
@xzibit2313 the link for the stave drum calculator that i used is in the credits.
you can do it without it anyway. just divide 360 degrees by two (because there is two faces on each stave) and then divide that by however many staves you want to have. i used 20, so i ended up with 9 degrees on each face.
No lathe? Check out smileys vids. he does his by hand.
all the hardware was from Billy Hyde except for the risers.
the repair guy there got me the dunnet throw off, because they dont stock it
@xzibit2313 yes. Thats what WarriorsNumber30 was saying. but when you set a table saw, you set it to 9 degrees. so if you add all of the 9 degrees together, you get the 360 circle, which is needed to make the drum. 81 degrees times the number of faces is like 3240 degrees which is certainly not a circle. so it is more correct to call it 9 degrees.
i don't really know how to explain it in maths though.
Number of staves required depends on the number of lugs you want on the drum. If you want 8 lugs, probably best to go for 16 or 24 staves so there will be a lug fixed to every other stave or every third stave. If you are using 10 lugs, then 20 or 30 staves would be ideal. As for the angle for the edges - divide 360 by the number of staves you want to use. That will give you the angle difference between each stave and the one next to it. Divide that by 2 to get the edge angle.
@WarriorsNumber30 there are angles on the edges of the blocks, between each stave. If there were no angles, i would have ended up with a plank of wood, 7.5 inches wide, 45 inches long. with the angles i ended up with a snare drum instead.
each stave is a symmetrical trapezium, with angles of 9 degrees on each face. if that didn't explain it i will message you...
@Vicfirth1989 the drum has shown no signs of movement or separation, and with all the hardware holding the drum together, it would be hard for it to split, unless the drum was dropped i think. and yes i did cut one bearing edge by hand, and the one done by hand was much better than the one on the lathe, but it was a very tiring process. i used a wood rasp, then cleaned up with glass paper.
@Llonghorns883 i wish i could make more, but the HSC is taking up too much of my time. You'd be surprised to see how easy they are to make. Give it a go, if you have access to tools.Thanks for the Comment
@PingaloBill thanks man. when i ordered the risers, i thought i ordered them a lot smaller. the are very brittle and hard, so if i want a smaller set, i will have to order a new set, as i cant cut them at home, which is a shame. you have a good point though. and everyone who looks at the drum comments about the size of the risers haha. though i think i can live with it for now. thanks for the comment.
@maryou93 yeh they are weird. there called "S hoops" but they were sitting in the drum shop for ages and i have a feeling they are discontinued. i got them cheap. they make tuning really easy but the flange that is supposed to protect the bearing edge is a bit silly as it restricts tuning.
@maryou93 that mightn't work because you have to cut the drum depth after you lathe it, then cut the bearing edges. so if you were to drill the holes before gluing and lathing, it will be like hit and miss. also, it would be difficult to line up all of the staves and holes horizontally, because they move a little when glued. when it is spun on the lathe is when you get the perfect cylindrical shape.
i think you will find that you'll have to further bore out the holes if you pre-drill.
Does the sanding process occur on the inside of the shell aswell?
satanicpunker182 8 months ago
I think you did a great job.Was this your first snare to build?If so you did a really good job for your first time.I do like how you used the plastic spacer strips to compensate for the shell being a little small.But might I suggest,replace the plastic strips with wood strip spacers and stain and seal them in a little different shade than the shell and it will make it stand out tremendously.But either way,I love your work.
thecoolestdad 8 months ago
about how much did this cost
mikeisametalhead 9 months ago
@mikeisametalhead ... the cost is there at the end @ 9:14, and the breakdown is just before it.
tmonozy 9 months ago
@tmonozy no spam intended, but thanks to your help i made my own snare. check out my vid, i mentioned u in the description. :)
jackthedrummer96 1 year ago
nice dude, i can hella respect this shit, i do not have the patience to conduct something like this. nice work, looks good
SyqLAWL 1 year ago
Hi, blocks how much are large? Not deep, large ;) on their longer and shorter side... thanks :)
MickyArmageddon 1 year ago
Nice work Tom, I bought a Walnut shell for my snare and just fitted all the parts. I'd like to have a go at making my own shells though. I also love Smiley's videos! He is the master...
Phrase 1 year ago
That's uber sketchy. I'm making mine from Hungarian mahogany. I'll be modeling mine after a Piccolo 3"X13."
Noble909 1 year ago
Nice drum. It's really too bad about the diameter being just a little off. I think you should put wood risers in to replace those plastic ones. It would look so much better. I'm sure it still sounds great. pls check out my channel for my padauk stave drum build.
mprimecoleman 1 year ago
you get the 9 degree angle by calling the 90 degree "Zero" it's then 9 degrees off that. btw: beautiful shell, but I'm wondering what the sound is like having even tension set on the bottom and top heads..? Did you have to use a a normal top head for the underside or is it just a super stretched bottom head? Hopefully, I'll have something up about the drum I'm making now. Using Mai Kelat which is a Malaysian wood. I live in Thailand, and there're few woods that can stand up to the weather
blahblibidyblahblah 1 year ago
@blahblibidyblahblah thanks man. i have been tuning both heads pretty tight. sounds sort of like a chambers snare, but a little more resonant. i am using a resonant snare head but i cant remember which type. looking forward to your video.
Tom
tmonozy 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Its all about the total change in direction. If you look at a square, the corners are made up of right-angles (90 degrees). 4x90=360. With a icosagon, each joint should change direction by 18 degrees. The 20 joins make up the full 360 change in direction (18x20=360). However, tmonozy has decided to bisect the angle and spread the angle across both pieces of joining timber. So each edge has been cut at 9 degrees. When you add the angles of the two pieces of joining timber, you get 18 degrees.
louismonaghaniaiasjd 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Its all about the total change in direction. If you look at a square, the corners are made up of right-angles (90 degrees). 4x90=360. With a icosagon, each joint should change direction by 18 degrees. The 20 joins make up the full 360 change in direction (18x20=360). However, tmonozy has decided to bisect the angle and spread the angle across both pieces of joining timber. So each edge has been cut at 9 degrees. When you add the angles of the two pieces of joining timber, you get 18 degrees.
louismonaghaniaiasjd 1 year ago
How did you figure out the angles you needed and number of staves?
Also do you have any recommendations on what to do if I don't have a lathe?
And finally where can I get hardware?
xzibit2313 1 year ago
@xzibit2313 the link for the stave drum calculator that i used is in the credits.
you can do it without it anyway. just divide 360 degrees by two (because there is two faces on each stave) and then divide that by however many staves you want to have. i used 20, so i ended up with 9 degrees on each face.
No lathe? Check out smileys vids. he does his by hand.
all the hardware was from Billy Hyde except for the risers.
the repair guy there got me the dunnet throw off, because they dont stock it
tmonozy 1 year ago
@tmonozy a nine degree angle is like nothing is that 9 degrees subtracted from 90? to get an 81 degree angle
xzibit2313 1 year ago
@xzibit2313 yes. Thats what WarriorsNumber30 was saying. but when you set a table saw, you set it to 9 degrees. so if you add all of the 9 degrees together, you get the 360 circle, which is needed to make the drum. 81 degrees times the number of faces is like 3240 degrees which is certainly not a circle. so it is more correct to call it 9 degrees.
i don't really know how to explain it in maths though.
if someone can, please do so.
Tom
tmonozy 1 year ago
@tmonozy oh yeh and where did u get the badge?
jackthedrummer96 1 year ago
@xzibit2313
Number of staves required depends on the number of lugs you want on the drum. If you want 8 lugs, probably best to go for 16 or 24 staves so there will be a lug fixed to every other stave or every third stave. If you are using 10 lugs, then 20 or 30 staves would be ideal. As for the angle for the edges - divide 360 by the number of staves you want to use. That will give you the angle difference between each stave and the one next to it. Divide that by 2 to get the edge angle.
Phrase 1 year ago
great video, but i have a question: what do you mean by "9 degrees"? there arent any 9 degree angles on each of the blocks
WarriorsNumber30 1 year ago
@WarriorsNumber30 there are angles on the edges of the blocks, between each stave. If there were no angles, i would have ended up with a plank of wood, 7.5 inches wide, 45 inches long. with the angles i ended up with a snare drum instead.
each stave is a symmetrical trapezium, with angles of 9 degrees on each face. if that didn't explain it i will message you...
Tom
tmonozy 1 year ago
@tmonozy i understand about angles (im not that retarded), but the angles are more like around 80 degrees instead of 9
WarriorsNumber30 1 year ago
@tmonozy oh nevermind, u were talking about the outside edge being 9 degrees... sorry about that
WarriorsNumber30 1 year ago
Mad respect man! I'm gonna try making one of these myself now.
How does it sound?
Also, what's the music around 5:00?
Frequency666hz 1 year ago
@Frequency666hz
thanks dude.
i like the sound and feel of it better than that of my 14 x 5 reference snare.
could just be personal preference though.
it is a lot more bright and lively compared to the dull ref.
only time i use my ref over the teak is when i record because the snares rattle a lot more on my teak drum. (problems with the snare beds)
but the teak drum is my main snare now.
song around 5:00 is "Perceptions" by Afro Dizzi Act from the album Audio Cookie.
cool album...
tmonozy 1 year ago
has the drum held together good (with out the tongue and grooves)? And did you hand cut one of the bearing edges?
Vicfirth1989 1 year ago
@Vicfirth1989 the drum has shown no signs of movement or separation, and with all the hardware holding the drum together, it would be hard for it to split, unless the drum was dropped i think. and yes i did cut one bearing edge by hand, and the one done by hand was much better than the one on the lathe, but it was a very tiring process. i used a wood rasp, then cleaned up with glass paper.
Tom
tmonozy 1 year ago
how much would you charge to make me one? seriously (:
Llonghorns883 1 year ago
@Llonghorns883 i wish i could make more, but the HSC is taking up too much of my time. You'd be surprised to see how easy they are to make. Give it a go, if you have access to tools.Thanks for the Comment
Tom.
tmonozy 1 year ago
Respect! And congratulations for your new self-made snaredrum!
Do you think about making your "plastic risers" smaller?
Anyway, well done! Ciao
PingaloBill 1 year ago
@PingaloBill thanks man. when i ordered the risers, i thought i ordered them a lot smaller. the are very brittle and hard, so if i want a smaller set, i will have to order a new set, as i cant cut them at home, which is a shame. you have a good point though. and everyone who looks at the drum comments about the size of the risers haha. though i think i can live with it for now. thanks for the comment.
Tom
tmonozy 1 year ago
those hoops are weird, do they have a special name?
maryou93 1 year ago
@maryou93 yeh they are weird. there called "S hoops" but they were sitting in the drum shop for ages and i have a feeling they are discontinued. i got them cheap. they make tuning really easy but the flange that is supposed to protect the bearing edge is a bit silly as it restricts tuning.
tmonozy 1 year ago
what do you think about making the holes to the staves before glueing them?
maryou93 1 year ago
@maryou93 that mightn't work because you have to cut the drum depth after you lathe it, then cut the bearing edges. so if you were to drill the holes before gluing and lathing, it will be like hit and miss. also, it would be difficult to line up all of the staves and holes horizontally, because they move a little when glued. when it is spun on the lathe is when you get the perfect cylindrical shape.
i think you will find that you'll have to further bore out the holes if you pre-drill.
Tom
tmonozy 1 year ago
what is the name of the first song
shanghide 1 year ago
@shanghide "Puzzle with a piece missing" by Gotye
tmonozy 1 year ago
I heard it recently - great tone.
Crossie145 2 years ago
Nice Snare Drum!
Great Works!
smileythejazzcat 2 years ago
I love the choice of music and the lyric 'Things are falling into place' Well done Tom.
michaelmis 2 years ago