Good video and info. Thanks! Really appreciate it.
I have a 2008 XR650L. It's got 2205 miles on it. Just bought it two months ago. Love it and it runs like a top (smooth). BUT, I have a stalling issue when I am coming to a stop and down shift (with the clutch in of course). The previous owner had it rejetted and put on an FMF pipe. I haven't looked at the jets myself yet but that's next if adjusting the idle doesn't solve the problem. Just wondering what your experience has been with stalling.
No. The stock carb. Have you ever experienced this problem of stalling when slowing to a stop and down-shifting? If not, what's your best guess? Thanks for taking the time!
@sambking You should post in the thumpertalk forums, you'd likely get better help there. The only thing I can think of is your pilot circuit is too lean. Maybe try unscrewing your pilot screw 1/4-1/2 turn to see if it helps. Other than that your best bet would be to post on the thumpertalk forums as the members there have a wealth of experience with this.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it a shot. I'm already on TT and getting some good feedback. After I try all the carb related options I am going to zero in on the CDi. Thanks again for the help! If you come across someone who has the same problem and a remedy keep me in mind.
Thanks bugcrush3r, I got my LC-1 and DB guage installed, I was horribly rich. Dam plug never indicated it being that rich nor was the gas mileage that bad. I went from 45/165 to 40/158 and the thing runs like I stripped off 30 pounds and installed 14/48 sprockets. I'm at 4000 feet elevation thats why the jets sound small. I never thought you could get this much power from just a carb and slip-on pipe. Now its time to play around with needles, maybe a38 pilot too. Again thanks for your help.
@flatfender100 I would also completely block off the leak jet or put in a #35 (the smallest one available) or even better get a adjustable leak jet like mine (R&D pump2 cover). Also don't forget to get a longer pilot air screw that is much easier to adjust while the carb is installed.
Nice bike! I'm real curious did the gas mileage change much for the better after you got it dialed in perfect? I'm looking to go further (off road) without carrying extra gas cans or getting a bigger tank than the 17 liter IMS. Also, was there much gained from plugging the exhaust analyzer into your computer or did you only need the AFR readings right off the gauge? Hey thanks in advance and looking forward to any replies.
@flatfender100 Milage is roughly the same I guess. I figure I can get about 270-300km a tank depending how aggressive I am. The only thing connecting the computer gives you over the gauge is trending capabilities but I didn't have an input module for the throttle position so I just used the gauge to calibrate my feul/air ratio.
This is a little off topic, but did you paint the plastics black besides the aftermarket tank of course? And what about the seat? I'm just wondering if this is some awesome special edition I've never heard of or if you painted them, how easy was it and how durable is that paint?
@chevy2die Yeah I painted the side covers. I used Krylon Fusion paint. The paint fuses itself with the plastic and doesn't flake or chip off. The seat cover is a custom design I had made at the local shoemaker shop. Thanks for the compliments. DG
wheelie on command up to third gear? geeze thats not very impressive. my old as fuck IT490 can do wheelies in all 5 gears and the only performance mod its got is a DG slipon. i think ill stick with my 2 strokes.
@caboose365 If you knew anything about this type of bike you would know that to wheelie it in 3rd gear is quite impressive taking into account that in 3rd gear your doing about 40 -50 mph. Also I weigh 260lbs so it makes it even more impressive. This is a BRP that weighs much more than your normal 2 stroke bike. This bike stock has no guts so the mods I did really bring it to life.
Nice job! could you slip a section of radiator hose over the bung and wires so its protected from mud etc? that way you could leave it on permanent, or can you cap it with a special bolt so its there for future tuning. Your video inspired me, so I'm going the same route too. Does the location of the sensor matter? Thanks in advance.
@roguemotorcycle From what I read the location is somewhat important in that is should be at far as possible from the exhaust tip as the prevent o2 from the free air to enter and affecting the reading. I plan on removing the o2 system after because its not needed. I only planned on leaving it in from spring to fall to see how the carb worked during varying temperature and elevations.
thanks for responding, and that price is well affordable. I've done the cam's, headers, etc and that is why I now need to fix the jetting. Putting the cam in and headers has currently made the bike very rich 9 - 10 AFR...which was the opposite to what we all would have thought. To date, the cam hasn't proven to be worth it. I had it tuned beautifully before, so if this cam doesn't make the bike faster eventually - its gets dissembled and given to charity :-)
@vivianmorresey Yeah 9-10 is way too rich. I run 13.8-12.2 from 0%-100% throttle position. The O2 setup is a must have for any major upgrade like pipe,headers,cam,and carb. Top end is not my concern, I was trying to achieve better low end and throttle response. One thing I will be doing is changing out the 2nd gear to that of the NX650. Its a direct drop in and will bring the ratio closer to that of the 1st gear. I find theres too much gap between those two gears.
@vivianmorresey My first gear is almost useless because I run a 48T rear and stock front sprocket for more low end torque. With the new 2nd gear I'll be able to run a smaller rear sprocket and keep the the torque-y feel too it. Also wheelies will be smoother from 1st to 2nd because the gap will be less. Many people are doing this mod. I've not yet done it because I've not yet had an excuse to tear my engine apart.
@brucenash thanks for the compliments. All things being equal, a T38 will probably have better low end throttle response and should pull as hard or very slightly less than my T41 at WOT.
@Pat5725 Running the bike at 13.8 instead of at 14.7 (Stoyk) is better for the engine actually, because it's air cooled running at a leaner afr means the engine will get MUCH hotter and for an air cooler bike you really don't want it to be hotting up while it's just idling! And if I were "BugCrush3r" I'd rather have a smoother idle as well!
@BugCrush3r Hi where did you get the o2 sensor from, thats a good bit of kit - did you have to buy or can you rent something like that. Great way to be your own dyno tuner :-)
Have you managed to out it on the dyno and get a power out out?
@vivianmorresey The o2 sensor and gauge from innovate that I got off ebay for $200. There aren't any shops here where I live that have a dyno so I can't do that but needless to say my cousin who has a stock 2008 XR650L does not compare. The throttle response is instant and is by far the best feature of this upgrade. Wide open throttle is only slightly better but I am sure that a more aggressive cam to compliment the FMF pipe and larger carb would help a lot. Low end torque is increased alot
Good video and info. Thanks! Really appreciate it.
I have a 2008 XR650L. It's got 2205 miles on it. Just bought it two months ago. Love it and it runs like a top (smooth). BUT, I have a stalling issue when I am coming to a stop and down shift (with the clutch in of course). The previous owner had it rejetted and put on an FMF pipe. I haven't looked at the jets myself yet but that's next if adjusting the idle doesn't solve the problem. Just wondering what your experience has been with stalling.
sambking 3 months ago
@sambking Are you using a FCR MX carb?
BugCrush3r 3 months ago
@BugCrush3r
No. The stock carb. Have you ever experienced this problem of stalling when slowing to a stop and down-shifting? If not, what's your best guess? Thanks for taking the time!
sambking 3 months ago
@sambking You should post in the thumpertalk forums, you'd likely get better help there. The only thing I can think of is your pilot circuit is too lean. Maybe try unscrewing your pilot screw 1/4-1/2 turn to see if it helps. Other than that your best bet would be to post on the thumpertalk forums as the members there have a wealth of experience with this.
BugCrush3r 3 months ago
@BugCrush3r
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it a shot. I'm already on TT and getting some good feedback. After I try all the carb related options I am going to zero in on the CDi. Thanks again for the help! If you come across someone who has the same problem and a remedy keep me in mind.
sambking 3 months ago
Thanks bugcrush3r, I got my LC-1 and DB guage installed, I was horribly rich. Dam plug never indicated it being that rich nor was the gas mileage that bad. I went from 45/165 to 40/158 and the thing runs like I stripped off 30 pounds and installed 14/48 sprockets. I'm at 4000 feet elevation thats why the jets sound small. I never thought you could get this much power from just a carb and slip-on pipe. Now its time to play around with needles, maybe a38 pilot too. Again thanks for your help.
flatfender100 8 months ago
@flatfender100 I would also completely block off the leak jet or put in a #35 (the smallest one available) or even better get a adjustable leak jet like mine (R&D pump2 cover). Also don't forget to get a longer pilot air screw that is much easier to adjust while the carb is installed.
BugCrush3r 8 months ago
Comment removed
flatfender100 8 months ago
@flatfender100 Glad I could help. Properly jetting this carb really makes a big difference.
BugCrush3r 8 months ago
Where did you buy the NCVR needle, from Honda? Thanks in advance
flatfender100 8 months ago
@flatfender100
NCVR, NCVS, NCVT needles can be purchased at Yamaha. Use the following part numbers:
NCVR yamaha part# 5TA-14916-VR-00
NCVS yamaha part# 5TA-14916-VS-00
NCVT yamaha part# 5TA-14916-VT-00
BugCrush3r 8 months ago
Comment removed
flatfender100 8 months ago
Nice bike! I'm real curious did the gas mileage change much for the better after you got it dialed in perfect? I'm looking to go further (off road) without carrying extra gas cans or getting a bigger tank than the 17 liter IMS. Also, was there much gained from plugging the exhaust analyzer into your computer or did you only need the AFR readings right off the gauge? Hey thanks in advance and looking forward to any replies.
flatfender100 1 year ago
@flatfender100 Milage is roughly the same I guess. I figure I can get about 270-300km a tank depending how aggressive I am. The only thing connecting the computer gives you over the gauge is trending capabilities but I didn't have an input module for the throttle position so I just used the gauge to calibrate my feul/air ratio.
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
Comment removed
flatfender100 1 year ago
This is a little off topic, but did you paint the plastics black besides the aftermarket tank of course? And what about the seat? I'm just wondering if this is some awesome special edition I've never heard of or if you painted them, how easy was it and how durable is that paint?
chevy2die 1 year ago
@chevy2die Yeah I painted the side covers. I used Krylon Fusion paint. The paint fuses itself with the plastic and doesn't flake or chip off. The seat cover is a custom design I had made at the local shoemaker shop. Thanks for the compliments. DG
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
wheelie on command up to third gear? geeze thats not very impressive. my old as fuck IT490 can do wheelies in all 5 gears and the only performance mod its got is a DG slipon. i think ill stick with my 2 strokes.
caboose365 1 year ago
@caboose365 If you knew anything about this type of bike you would know that to wheelie it in 3rd gear is quite impressive taking into account that in 3rd gear your doing about 40 -50 mph. Also I weigh 260lbs so it makes it even more impressive. This is a BRP that weighs much more than your normal 2 stroke bike. This bike stock has no guts so the mods I did really bring it to life.
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
Nice job! could you slip a section of radiator hose over the bung and wires so its protected from mud etc? that way you could leave it on permanent, or can you cap it with a special bolt so its there for future tuning. Your video inspired me, so I'm going the same route too. Does the location of the sensor matter? Thanks in advance.
roguemotorcycle 1 year ago
@roguemotorcycle From what I read the location is somewhat important in that is should be at far as possible from the exhaust tip as the prevent o2 from the free air to enter and affecting the reading. I plan on removing the o2 system after because its not needed. I only planned on leaving it in from spring to fall to see how the carb worked during varying temperature and elevations.
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
Great, thank you.
N7XW 1 year ago
What aftermarket tank is that? Clarke? IMS? I'm looking to replace my stock tank and not sure which one I'm going to get. Thanks.
N7XW 1 year ago
@N7XW Its a clarke 4.7gal
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
thanks for responding, and that price is well affordable. I've done the cam's, headers, etc and that is why I now need to fix the jetting. Putting the cam in and headers has currently made the bike very rich 9 - 10 AFR...which was the opposite to what we all would have thought. To date, the cam hasn't proven to be worth it. I had it tuned beautifully before, so if this cam doesn't make the bike faster eventually - its gets dissembled and given to charity :-)
vivianmorresey 1 year ago
@vivianmorresey Yeah 9-10 is way too rich. I run 13.8-12.2 from 0%-100% throttle position. The O2 setup is a must have for any major upgrade like pipe,headers,cam,and carb. Top end is not my concern, I was trying to achieve better low end and throttle response. One thing I will be doing is changing out the 2nd gear to that of the NX650. Its a direct drop in and will bring the ratio closer to that of the 1st gear. I find theres too much gap between those two gears.
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
@vivianmorresey My first gear is almost useless because I run a 48T rear and stock front sprocket for more low end torque. With the new 2nd gear I'll be able to run a smaller rear sprocket and keep the the torque-y feel too it. Also wheelies will be smoother from 1st to 2nd because the gap will be less. Many people are doing this mod. I've not yet done it because I've not yet had an excuse to tear my engine apart.
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
@cooptroop123 If you haven't noticed all the smog "shit" has already been removed. You can clearly see that in my other videos
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
I will get my XR650L next week. Costed me 1000eur and I hope it will be as reliable as my last XR600R :) Fine bike you have :)
KTMheizer 1 year ago
@KTMheizer Thank you for your compliments. Hope you enjoy your bike as much as I do mine.
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
what exhuast do you have? it sounds real nice
DRugfree1987 1 year ago
@DRugfree1987 It sounds a little tinny in the video but in real life it sounds deep and throaty. Its a FMF PowerCore IV
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
What kind of vapor computer do you have that has the turnsignal light on it etc. ? ive tried looking for it online and can't find it.
doogy117 1 year ago
I dropped the main jet to 155 for the hot summer.
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
hey i have a mikuni t38 carb on my bike, it came with it when i bought it. what do u think, do i have less power than with the stock carb? thanks
PD: beatiful bike!
brucenash 1 year ago
@brucenash thanks for the compliments. All things being equal, a T38 will probably have better low end throttle response and should pull as hard or very slightly less than my T41 at WOT.
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
Hello,
I found the engine idled better at 13.8 , at 14.7 the idle was becoming erratic.
BugCrush3r
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
Running a little rich. Try to get close to 14.7 at idle
Pat5725 1 year ago
@Pat5725 Running the bike at 13.8 instead of at 14.7 (Stoyk) is better for the engine actually, because it's air cooled running at a leaner afr means the engine will get MUCH hotter and for an air cooler bike you really don't want it to be hotting up while it's just idling! And if I were "BugCrush3r" I'd rather have a smoother idle as well!
benttruck 1 year ago
@benttruck Exactly my thoughts. Polution wise 14.7 is best but for power you want anywhere between 13.8 at idle to 11.8-12.2 at WOT.
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
@BugCrush3r Hi where did you get the o2 sensor from, thats a good bit of kit - did you have to buy or can you rent something like that. Great way to be your own dyno tuner :-)
Have you managed to out it on the dyno and get a power out out?
vivianmorresey 1 year ago
@vivianmorresey The o2 sensor and gauge from innovate that I got off ebay for $200. There aren't any shops here where I live that have a dyno so I can't do that but needless to say my cousin who has a stock 2008 XR650L does not compare. The throttle response is instant and is by far the best feature of this upgrade. Wide open throttle is only slightly better but I am sure that a more aggressive cam to compliment the FMF pipe and larger carb would help a lot. Low end torque is increased alot
BugCrush3r 1 year ago
The other bracket beside the O2 gauge is the bracket that holds my GPS
BugCrush3r 1 year ago