i use transparent film for overhead projector and laser printer, but i often got defects, tried different films and printer - same result, and it is not too black either if i look through it on lamp, so i have to print two copies and stick them together with double sided stick tape, which decreases resolution,
BTW did you thought about using projector for projecting on pcb directly from computer? would it work?
I made my first film as you described, set the printer to max quality, printed two films for each side - one mirorred, one direct to have the toner on the same side when you glue together, this way you get better contrast. I glued together with superglue. The result was pretty satisfying on 0.3mm traces, but on large areas it still produced some holes.
You have to experiment with exposure time, because the film is still sort of transparent. I used 7min with 10w UV led.
This is a very slick video. Really impressed. If you have it the schematic and any files of the PCB would be really appreciated. i would love to make your one of your exposure devices. The ability to dial up the time makes the process even easier.
I used 2x 5W high power SMD UV LEDs with 80* vizual angle, linked in series and powered from 12V through an LM317 current stabilizer.
The LEDs are put together closely (to have spot light for greater contrast) on a larger PCM (to act as heat sink), and mounted on a pole to have ~20cm distance from the exposing surface.
The whole thing can be connected to a timer to don't worry about accidental overexposure
@nagyizee Nu esti peste limita cu lm317, la 5w are nevoie de 1.6 amperi nu?
Felicitari pentru video arata foarte bine placile si statia de expunere. Mi-am luat un fel de "pebleo vitrea" pentru soldermask, dar pana acum nu mi-a iesit... (am vazut "picatura")
@valiza123 Lm317 inca e in parametrii, am 1.2A pe el, ledurile merg cu 4.2V (8.4V in serie). L-am lasat functionand jumat de ora si temperatura pe chip a crescut la 75*C. Probabil ar trebui un heatsink mai mare dar am vrut sa-l tin low profile.
Pentru soldermask incearca lacul de la tekro.ro (e la accessori circuite imprimate), eu sunt multumit cu acesta.
Great tutorial. I would appreciate if you tell us what product did you use for the final coating. It wouldn't be possible to create a mask to coat just the vias and not the pads? Anyways, very professional result and really interesting.
Very nice. I really like your exposure lamp you made. Looks real good. Where do you source the solder mask laquer? I have had dificulty locating anything like it.
@nagyizee That laquer is Positiv 20 which is a product in Kontakt Chemie (electrical/electronics) line from CRC Industries. I have that same stuff in my fridge along with SK10 flux.
Where do you got your Positiv Spray? It seems impossible to find in the US!
xKatjaxPurrsx 2 weeks ago
@xKatjaxPurrsx
I live in Europe, we have it in almost every electronics store.
It is produced in Belgium, it should be exported in US also.
nagyizee 2 weeks ago
Hi. Excellent tutorial video. Keep up the good work!
epatto 3 weeks ago
how do you print thous transparent films?
i use transparent film for overhead projector and laser printer, but i often got defects, tried different films and printer - same result, and it is not too black either if i look through it on lamp, so i have to print two copies and stick them together with double sided stick tape, which decreases resolution,
BTW did you thought about using projector for projecting on pcb directly from computer? would it work?
odv000 1 month ago
@odv000
Hi,
I made my first film as you described, set the printer to max quality, printed two films for each side - one mirorred, one direct to have the toner on the same side when you glue together, this way you get better contrast. I glued together with superglue. The result was pretty satisfying on 0.3mm traces, but on large areas it still produced some holes.
You have to experiment with exposure time, because the film is still sort of transparent. I used 7min with 10w UV led.
nagyizee 1 month ago
@odv000
now I am using a lithographic printer which creates high optical quality film. A friend of mine is working with typography and he has such a printer
nagyizee 1 month ago
If you need such precise PCB and traces then you right. My apologies . Anyway, great video ant tools you have!
dumyyyyyy 1 month ago
no problem, an thanks :-)
nagyizee 1 month ago
Great video and awesome work.BUT: The question is: Why so much work with this equipment when same results y have trough toner transfer method?
dumyyyyyy 1 month ago
@dumyyyyyy Toner transfer is sort ok OK for traces wider than 0.3 mm, even then you need to thoroughly check for interruptions;
but it is useless for 0.15mm traces I am using now.
I struggled a lot with toner transfer method, since I use the optical I have virtually 0 failure rate.
nagyizee 1 month ago
can you send me the sketch for that light? looks awesome
billynightmare 3 months ago
Nagyizee;
This is a very slick video. Really impressed. If you have it the schematic and any files of the PCB would be really appreciated. i would love to make your one of your exposure devices. The ability to dial up the time makes the process even easier.
Many thanks.
Wubu11
Wubu11 3 months ago
I will make a blogspot entry, with schematics and firmware and put the link to the description,
just to have time for creating it.
nagyizee 3 months ago
@Wubu11
Thanks , i will look forward to it. Great photos on your blog.
Wubu11 3 months ago
what is the name of the song that plays in the video?
Andre48CAD 3 months ago
the first one: Forrowest - Forro In The Dark, but I don't have the name of the second two
nagyizee 3 months ago
Do you have a tutorial on how you did your Custome UV Exposer Device?
aeriusmetal 3 months ago
Unfortunately I don't have, but it is easy to do:
I used 2x 5W high power SMD UV LEDs with 80* vizual angle, linked in series and powered from 12V through an LM317 current stabilizer.
The LEDs are put together closely (to have spot light for greater contrast) on a larger PCM (to act as heat sink), and mounted on a pole to have ~20cm distance from the exposing surface.
The whole thing can be connected to a timer to don't worry about accidental overexposure
nagyizee 3 months ago
@nagyizee What im more interested is in the schematics and the programming (code), i want to create one using an arduino chip and a H44780 LCD.
alexmartinez2000 3 months ago
@nagyizee Nu esti peste limita cu lm317, la 5w are nevoie de 1.6 amperi nu?
Felicitari pentru video arata foarte bine placile si statia de expunere. Mi-am luat un fel de "pebleo vitrea" pentru soldermask, dar pana acum nu mi-a iesit... (am vazut "picatura")
valiza123 1 month ago
@valiza123 Lm317 inca e in parametrii, am 1.2A pe el, ledurile merg cu 4.2V (8.4V in serie). L-am lasat functionand jumat de ora si temperatura pe chip a crescut la 75*C. Probabil ar trebui un heatsink mai mare dar am vrut sa-l tin low profile.
Pentru soldermask incearca lacul de la tekro.ro (e la accessori circuite imprimate), eu sunt multumit cu acesta.
Numai bine,
Arpad
nagyizee 1 month ago
great vid i would love the shematic or pcb design for the uv timer.
if this is possible.
modheadify 5 months ago
Thank you so much
Very informative video :)
B4IRUTUARU16 7 months ago
Thanks :-)
nagyizee 7 months ago
Great tutorial. I would appreciate if you tell us what product did you use for the final coating. It wouldn't be possible to create a mask to coat just the vias and not the pads? Anyways, very professional result and really interesting.
TCPCruscottoSuperpiu 7 months ago
Very nice. I really like your exposure lamp you made. Looks real good. Where do you source the solder mask laquer? I have had dificulty locating anything like it.
Th3Su8 7 months ago
@Th3Su8 I think it's more practical to use the Dynamask film you can buy it from octamex.de
TCPCruscottoSuperpiu 7 months ago
Thanks, :-)
I got my lacquer from a local electronics shop in my country, it has no brand or something.
but you can try to search at farnell.com, and search for solder mask or solder resist
nagyizee 7 months ago
@nagyizee That laquer is Positiv 20 which is a product in Kontakt Chemie (electrical/electronics) line from CRC Industries. I have that same stuff in my fridge along with SK10 flux.
refa42 7 months ago
@refa42
We were talking about the green solder mask lacquer, the positiv20 is the photoresist, and I also have it in the fridge :-D
nagyizee 7 months ago
@nagyizee sorry I got photo and solder resist mixed up. Seeedstudio has solder mask inks. I'd link it but this doesn't allow urls.
refa42 7 months ago