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  • No I know never to come to your shop

  • You should have never told us WHY you're tearing it down because now I'm just irritated with you.. =/

  • Wow, you sure took the hard way taking that head off! lol. As for everyone talking about 7-bolts crankwalking, it's not as common as people think. And 7-bolts can handle just as much power as a 6-bolt with the right internals.

  • Awesome. great music who's the artist

     I like to see a video of the 420a head removal or whole motor, in 10 minutes

  • BAM! Right in the Favorites list. It has a moral and everything.

    >Click< Liked.

    This video is Jafro approved! d (ツ) b

  • call me names, try to put me down, i dont care, the GS, and RS (420a engine) are DSM!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • Hey guys, im looking at a 92 Eclipse with a 4G63A (I think) Is ther anything i should be aware of other than crankwalk...if that affects that motor?

  • @LynxOGrady cranks walk is very unlikly on a 1g DSM, I dont recall hearing of crankwalk on a 1g, only 2gs. Also a 92 has a 6bolt motor, which is a better versoin of the 4g63

  • I can see why you rebuilt that motor 5 times, LOL You like to take the hard way when removing heads huh?

  • in additoin to this do u knoe where can i get parts for the 4g63 i lost my oil filter bracket no one carries it no more not even the dealer if u find one please letme know... am puting the engine in next week soo i need the bracket asap........ please replay thanksss

  • I own a 93 DSm(4g63) 6 bolst rebuiding the engine, rebore it to 20tousnds oversize turbo piston crank, rods n everyting it feels soo fkn good to play wit it.. i love dsm but i would love to get a awd mine is the fwd which i dont really like my goal is to get the 400whp.............. great video mannn

  • I would have replaced that piston as well. In addition, that little indentation would surely throw off the compression ratio of that cylinder.

  • Also not a good idea to use an impact gun on the head bolts if you plan on reusing them. It puts unnecessary stress on them which can cause them to snap and/or stretch when retorquing them. Best to use a nicely size breaker bar.

    Great vid, none the less!

  • Ok, i have a 4g63 dsm. What is the 6 bolt thing ya guys talking about? I want to know which bolts are they.

  • know this question has nothing to do with the vid. but my 1997 eclipse gs. (4g63) has started to light up the abs light to me. it doesnt always get on. you can drive sometimes about 5 minutes and then it lights. where could the problem be??

  • wana give me your em and fpr? lol good work

  • Too slow we did it in under 8min in a evo 2 noob!!!

  • all 90 and 91 4g63 were 6 bolt. They switched to the 7 bolt in april of 92. As a general rule of thumb most dsm tuners (including me) use a 6 bolt for a "build". An ideal setup is a 6bolt/4bolt awd. A stock 7 bolt will not walk as often as people think as long as they are driven normally. southernutahauto is 100% correct about the crank walk. The 2g rods are weaker. A 6 bolt build done RIGHT will amaze you. Cheap 4g63 build only = good dyno numbers. save a rock.. throw a 420a.

  • I'm a little new when it comes to DSM's. I'm a Honda guy but I've really been getting into DSM's, tired of fwd. The main thing I'm concerned about is the 7 bolt setup in the 2g..I see alot of people goin for the 6 bolt setup..why is that, if I wanted to stay around the 250whp range would a 7 bolt be ok? Or is it not recommended?

  • @Xtraordinary70 7 bolt can easily handle 250 whp and you can get there without having to touch internals. The only reason why you'd possibly swap based on ur goal is if your crank is walking, otherwise run it. However, here's a warning ( and I believe any dsmer will back this one) once u start playing with dsms ur goal of 250 can easily climb to 350, 450, etc as u realize the potential that exist. If u mod right u can use most them on a 6 bolt if ur goals ever change and require it.

  • @southernutahautos Yeah agree. Backing you up on this one.

    I started off with a 270 horse power lancer evolution III RS (CE9A) but now, before I even know it, I ended up with a over 400 whp engine. Go figure. :D

  • Comment removed

  • @Xtraordinary70 Nice video. Looks like you did some of this the hard way lol. I don't ever bother pulling the fuel rail, intake or exahust manifold when pulling the head anymore, I just leave them all on and dissasemble on the bench. I leave the plugs in as well, no chance to drop something down into the engine. I don't run PS or AC and with my setup, I can have the head offf in 15 minuets or so if need be lol.

  • @Xtraordinary70 I"ll second this comment, I own a 90 6 bolt that started with a 300hp power goal and now im just shy of 600. But I now have thousands of dollars and years of work in it. My .02$ is that you will become addicted to DSM's and will not be able to look at any other car the same. To date my family and gf still havent found a treatment center to get me off of my boost addiction, its just something that happens when you own a 4G63.

  • You may want to double check before you go trying to get on peoples ass there pal....the rods in the 7 bolt ARE weaker and you can ask any DSM guru about that. That is why most DSM related workshops offer the 6 bolt rods for the 7 bolt engine. And no they can NOT hold the same amount of power. The 6 bolt is a better engine stock for stock. Just because you have a 7 bolt does not make it otherwise. And i dont recall saying anything about crankwalk. The 6bolt is a bit stronger period.

  • @Master7770 its not the strength of the rod, it just wasnt milled to machine specifications, so when it was fitted into the block, the thrust bearings would fail, causing premature wear and the crank will move a plate that will bash the crank angle sensor and the car will die.

  • @mustang517 What in my post made you figure I was relating rod strength to crankwalk? I already know what crankwalk is and what causes it. I was setting him straight with what engine is better stock for stock and that is the 6 bolt. It has stronger internals and can hold a good bit more power without upgrading anything.

  • @Master7770 sorry for the mistake i met its not the strength of the crank, i didnt meant to say rod, i was just establishing we were on the same page. but yes, the 6bolt is deffinately the way to if your looking to make a good amount of power, safely, that is

  • i thought crankwalked was happening due to some sorry main bearing mitsu was using...until it all made sense, the crankshafts were machined to the wrong spec, thats y they were crankwalking...:-)

  • how can u tell the difference between a 420a and a 4g63 and which is a 6bolt and which is a 7bolt?

  • The timing belt on a 420A are on the passenger side, 4g63 the driver side (DSMs). Also, 420As are all 95+ Non-turbo (stock). 6 & 7bolt refer to the # of bolts on the flywheel of a 4g63. Generally 4g63 from 90 -94 are 6bolts & and all 95+ 4g63 DSMs (2g) are 7bolts. The differences between the 6 & 7 are more then the flywheel, but overall block design. look @ front cover, if the bottom is flat where it meets the oil pan it's a 6bolt if it dips down about 1/2 an inch its a 7bolt. Hope this helps

  • thx that helps alot

  • hey man... another diffrence that i have found is that the 420A engine dosent have a balance shaft ... its was put as a base engine for 2g eclipses ... i think its chrysler built  and was put in neons

  • @southernutahautos Yo 6 bolts are 90-92.5 .1G cars had 7 bolts if they were made after 92.5. Just helping out a fellow DSMER

  • how did that bolt get in there lol! scary!

  • i hate it when ppl say something in under 10 min and then they fast foward it

  • Like honestly. why 6 bolt? 7 bolts are stronger. is it because the 6bolt has a bigger bored head?

  • You don't have to worry about Crankwalk w/ a 6 bolt like you do w/ a 7 bolt.

  • What are crackwalks?

  • crankwalk is when the flywheel pulls away from the crank and causes the clutch to slip, i think lol...thats what i heard

  • if you've ever seen a clutch, pressure plate and flywheel assembled you'd know that's pretty much impossible for the flywheel to pull away from the clutch. If you'd read all comments it's pretty much explained. The main bearings prematurely wear & can also cause wear damage to the crank. the "walking" comes from lateral movement as a result of a worn thrust bearing.

  • thats what i was told about crankwalk

  • Im sorry, 7s are stronger? Sounds like you need to research buddy. I do like the fact the their heads are better designed which is why 7 bolts were still used on the newer Evos but the bottom end is NOT stronger.

  • 7s are stronger according to the book "MAX hp Mitsubishi 4g63". So i want to know about the 6 vs 7?

    I think putting swaping to a 6 will just cost a lot without much gain.

  • If your 7 isn't walking and you don't plan on building ur engine big, then yes, it could cost a lot without much gain.

    Just cuz a book say 7s stronger doesn't = proof. The fastest DSMs in the world all run 6 bolt. Magnus puts down 1400 hp. I think I trust them little more. A little more research will prove that book wrong.

    EVO is stil a "7 bolt" only because the # of bolts on clutch, but it was also REDESIGNED. it's not the same as a DSM 7bolt. The problem is with the oil squirters

  • Oh damn. Im planning on pulling 400hp out of my 7bolt . stroking boring and all of that. Will that be possable?

  • 400, yes possible, but if you're investing that kind of money IMO it's less expensive to eliminate the threat of crank walk. 7's oil squirters share the same oil journey as the main bearings. 7's use check valves that get stuck open and when under low pressure they rob oil pressure to the main bearings. When your at a light, Heavy clutch to hold that HP & low oil pressure excessive wear on mains is produced for lack of oil every time you start off. Then you end up rebuilding anyway.

  • Do a thorough check for crankwalk 1st if u plan to use the 7. Replacing the mains alone won't make it go away. Some actually plug up the squirters to assure pressure to the mains (I prefer my pistons cooled and lubed)

    Another critical ingredient to avoid crankwalk is proper clutch & plate selection, adjustment and disengagement. Performance clutches/plates = more pressure on the bearings with that extra holding power.

    Another plus with 6 bolt is 12mm vs 11mm head bolts. just use ARPs

  • 7 bolts are not stronger....they have thinner weaker rods and cant handle as much power on stock internals. Whoever told you that is full of shit. The 6 bolt can take alot more abuse than the 7 bolt can.

  • the 7 bolt block and the mains are way stronger, I have bare blocks sitting in my garage right now. the rods are weaker and the crank is also weaker. I heard you can use 1g rods in a 7 bolt. or you could put in some h-beams and a moly crank and call it a day.

  • Nice vid. I'm sure you learned your lesson.

  • sadly ;(

  • Takes me about 10 minutes REAL TIME to remove a head. Why did it take you 2 hours?

  • Sorry I call BS! 10 mins? What kind of car? In car or on stand?

    2 hrs w/ camera adjustments, etc. 90min of footage.

    Subtract working out of the cameras way, at times holding the camera in 1 hand while turning wrench w/ other, being clean & organized, + extra steps like fuel rail, battery, maft, etc & I could do it in 45 - 1hr.

    Time 4 entertainment sake.

    Please submit a vid of u taking a DSM head off in 10min w/o edits, REAL TIME.

    Otherwise BS!

    If ur going to lie, make it believable!

  • It takes me no more than 10 minutes to take off a head. I am not going to go pull my head and make a video just for you but if I ever need to pull my head, I will. My setup is alot easier to pull the head than most. I will break it down for you:

  • disconnect fuel lines from rail, unplug injectors, CAS, TPS, coil pack, ignition module, coolant temp etc. Crack cam gear bolts and slide off timing belt, disconnect upper rad hose, remove TB piping, remove 4 turbo bolts, remove head stud nuts, slide head up and off w. both manifolds in tact. Done.

    Even a bone stock 4g63 head doesnt take 2 hours.

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