Added: 3 years ago
From: snapfactory
Views: 108,946
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:
see all

All Comments (78)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Very informative!! Thanks!!

  • thank you! thank you! i've been searching all over online for a good tutorial/info on how to do what you described here. i was initially introduced to this concept thru a will crocket video, but he used auto mode. i just couldn't get things to work for me. your tutorial helped me get the results i was looking for. thank you!

  • is this shot in 5f/s? :D

  • yay! first 1 on 1 in hd! now can watch in full screen!

  • Good video, but what I don't get is that you say that f/6 is a good starting point, because you like that depth of field. When introducing the flash, however, you get f/10.

    What is more, you double your flash power, which gives you an even smaller aperture and then you decrease shutter speed to get a smaller flash percentage, but end up with a shutter speed of 1/20, which you say yourself is too slow. It has to be much better to decrease the flash power, right?!

  • Hi, i was just wondering regarding your L-358, what are the switch settings at the back set to?? from left to right what is up and what is down??

    thanks

  • fosho

  • caroline is a hottie.

  • Can one take professional photos only using a flash? Or does one have to use lightboxes, spots?

  • I just bought a Sekonic 308-8 after watching your video. Its a great meter !!

    I have one question if you can help. I took a reading of my subject and the 308 it gave me F10 , 25. When I look through my camera lens my camers meter is telling me that I am almost two stops under exposed !! When I took the shot with the settings the sekonic meter gave it was good. When I take the shot with the cameras settings it was bad. Whats going on here please?

    Paul

  • @pjos111 Well both of your devices are doing what they believe is the right thing. What you need to do is calibrating your light meter to your camera. And also if you want to be more precise, you have to calibrate your light meter to each of your lenses because f/4 on one might produce a bit brighter images and f/4 on another lens. Honestly I don't know how to calibrate your meter to your camera but there must be some tutorials online or ask a professional studio photographer. Good luck

  • What is the difference between this external meter and the meter in the camera? Is it not possible to achieve what you did with the external light meter with with the metering options in the camera?

  • @ziggy255 There is a huge difference between those two meters. Nope, It's not possible. Check out 'Digital Photography 1 on 1: Episode 2', I'm sure you'll get your answer.. :)

  • Mark, thanks for the tutorial.

    the window light expose at f6.3 while flash at f10. the flash should be 1.3 stop brighter at Megan's chin. then why does the meter say the window light balances with the flash light at 50% each? does anyone understand it? thank you.

  • @lamyeechiu window light + flash = f10. The flash is probably at f9. Not sure how the percentage is calculated though. Keep in mind flash outputs f9 light for 200th of the sec and window light outputs f6.3 for 1/60s

  • @lamyeechiu @lamyeechiu window light + flash = f10. The flash is probably at f9. Not sure how the percentage is calculated though. Keep in mind flash outputs f9 light for 200th of the sec and window light outputs f6.3 for 1/60s 

  • mark,

    not really sure why you chose to change settings to 50% flash/ambient...was that arbitrary?

    And if you wanted to shoot 1/60 and f/6 (without flash), why not change settings to match that when active flash suggested 1/60, f/10? (again arbitrary?)

  • I see that half the people here haven't found the amazing photographic secret of renting from you local camera shop, seriously its 10 dollars to rent out a light meter for a day.

  • Great tutorial all of them ! , If I'm using my Speedlite 580ex 11 and trying to balance Flash with Ambient Light,, and using a Flash Meter , Would I have to set the Speedlite on External Metering , Manaul Mode, think its Custom mode 05 03

    is which the iso and Av set on the Speedlite, #

    or am I totally confused !!

  • shaughz ,

    CM 5-3 is actually a thyristor setting on the EXII. It is actually an automatic mode, but so named manual since you can manually adust modes. It uses the flash meter on the Flash itself, and not the one in the camera (hence "External").

    Mr. Wallace is referring to the "Manual" setting acheived by using the Mode button on the 580. (The first "mode" is ETTL, and 2nd "mode" is "Manual", the 3rd mode is "Multi".

  • @mikewinburn

    Many thanks Mike, for your help on this one, Regards John Shaughz

  • £400 for a meter is a heck of a lot of dosh I just wonder if this is worth it for amateur use as you still state that you are taking test shots for each setting so why not set up to begin with the f stop you want use the TTM set to manual add your flash and adjust using the test shots that you are already going to be using with the light meter the results will be the same, and you will have saved £400 the only down side is the work rate drops which for an amataur is no great shakes

  • trackend ,

    yes, but if time is of the essence, and accuracy is of the essence, then the Sekonic is for you. If you favor "just experimenting with the settings until you get it the way you like it", then second guess a Flash meter.

    For example; at a basketball game, game finished, 3 minutes before next game, need to take a team pic, whats best Apeture, Flash, Speed at given ISO? You could play with it and hope to get it right, or you could just use the flash meter and get right 1st time.

  • GREATER IN HD thnx !!!

  • Either I don't get it or maybe I don't need a lightmeter, I just set up my camera the way I want it and shoot some test pictures first.

  • Hi Mark Technical Question, not sure if this has been asked already in all these comments, you have three different light sources with different colors: Fluorescence, Sun, Flash. How did you manage to balance all those colours? Nice work.

  • woodenchopstick ,

    florescent lighting would have been tamed with your selective chosing of either a custom White Balance, auto white balance, or florescent lighting white balance (that would correct the color).

    [Of course room light (overhead light) is part of ambient light as long as its continuous or constant.]

  • Thanks for the video. However, I still did not understand the point. What does the flash % tell us ? I mean, can we not just adjust the aperture and see what the resultant picture looks like ? I guess I am trying to understand the value of Sekonic to flash estimation process. If I eventually have to guess the % that I need, then is it not prone to user error ?

  • Let's say you are shooting outside and you want to balance your exposure with the ambient light; having a light meter to sort that out for you is a plus. Simply put, it can also expedite your workflow.... a lot!

  • sridhar125 ,

    yes you could continually adjust all the modes and settings and see what results :) the wonder of technology right?

    The Flash meter allows you to have a repeatable process, and quickly tells you how to adjust all the settings of Tv Av ISO simulaneously once you know the percent of flash/ambient.

    I've discovered its all about what YOU the artist wants to portray, and subjective in final results.

  • What can I say, excellent video. Very well explained.

  • Is a light meter useful for landscape photography? Or is it only for studio photography (which I'm assuming would include outdoor portraits, etc.)?

  • @terramar111 Hand held lightmeters are applicable in ALL types of photography. I use my L-358 in the incident (versus reflected, like an in camera meter does) about 95% of the time. The L-358 is a tremendous meter for all applications. I use it in the studio as well as on location.

  • Nice video. I need to learn how to use a light meter.

  • Nice clear explanations. thank you

  • Just the video tutorial i was waiting for. thanks for sharing this.

  • Love the videos

  • Mark, you are a true Guru, combining your knowledge and the presentation skills, it just makes the whole video watching an enjoyable learning experience. Thank you.

  • I've always learned a lot from you when I watch your vids. This was exactly what I was just looking for on YouTube. You nailed just what I needed to learn. Much thanks!

  • Hi Mark. Love your work man, I really do. I am a videographer and bought the 1D MIV to try on video. From that came me stumbling across you material on the Sekonic site. Subsequently I bought the L-358 and Mini + 2x TT5 Flex and 580 Ex's. I 'owe you one' because now I learn more about pic shoot my video work is becoming so much better. Many thanks. Kindest regards - Jack

  • I really want to thank you for your great work on lightings, I've really enjoy your videos and the quality of your work and delivery, I wish I could attend 1 or 2 of your classes; shame I'm in London which almost render it impossible.

    Keep up the good work.

    Many thanks.

    Lami

  • Great video this has helped me a lot, I am really going to have to buy one now, instead of relying on the cameras in built meter reader. Thanks Mark

  • Cool. Super helpful. Wish Sekonic offered actual instructional videos like this rather than labeling their infomercials as such.

  • thank you very much for this tutorial!

  • Very good.

    But couldn't you lower the ISO (thus reducing noise) with a slower shutter speed or more flash power?

    Even making the aperture a bit bigger might of enabled you to lower the ISO.

  • Comment removed

  • Comment removed

  • very informative! iSAW power!

  • Do you have to correct for the fluorescent above the model or does the flash with a higher kelvin over rule the bulbs?

  • Comment removed

  • Thanks for the great video. But I must say that I liked the very first photo that you took overall.

  • Great video. very useful.

  • Great Video, but ISO is not pronounced 'eye-so'. You speak each letter like "eye" "ess" 'oh" I-S-O.......

  • Considering ISO is an acronym, Eye Ess Oh is probably right; but does it really matter? We know what it means however it's said.

  • Would you call the home security company "ADT" like an acronym or spell it out....i agree that everyone knows what it means when said "eye-ess-ohh" but the correct way to say it is "I-S-O" most people say it so quickly that it sounds like its being sounded out

  • Very helpful. Thanks a lot!

  • great set of videos. Much obliged

  • Haha.. whoa... Caroline! I've shot Caroline before. She is very nice. She lives in Arizona but makes the occassional trip to L.A. which is where I shot with her.

  • ...I absolutely love your video lessons, but what's happen with "I like f/6.3" original statement? Where did it go and why??

  • great tips... :) now I have to spend more money haha thanks.

  • love your videos. it's hard to find lessons in english out here in japan. you're a lifesaver!

  • great you guys are posting vids again. You guys give such useful information. Can't wait for the next set please if possible try to post some new stuff soon. Your vids are excellent training tools

    Thanks

    Desmond

  • Thanks for a great video! However...

    Shutter speed doesn't affect amount of light from the flash because flash happens very rapidly. The only way to affect flash exposure is by changing the aperture. When you were slowing down the shutter, the light meter was reducing your aperture, which resulted in more ambient and less flash.

    So the end result is exactly as described, only difference is that technically flash exposure was affected by smaller aperture :)

    Please correct me if i'm wrong.

  • great videos, but why is it that in most of your videos when you fire a flash, you don't usually see it on the video?

  • This is a problem with the shutter speed of the video camera. Usually the flash fires between frames so it doesn't show up in the video. But the flash is actually firing. :)

  • ok I thought it might be something like that.

  • @snapfactory What plays a bigger factor is your video settings, when you produce a youtube video with 24 fps or lower, chances are that in that EXACT tick of time the flash fires, it happens that it was removed by your software or production tools.

  • Always great videos...

    -Rome

  • Good to see you're posting videos again!

  • This helps tremendously! Thank you for your tutorials - they are the best!

  • I actually prefer the 20% balance - any higher and the ambient light (which is beautiful) takes the backseat too much.

  • Very well explained - thank you.

  • great video. thanks for putting it together.

Loading...
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more