excellent video and outstanding installer. i noticed that you have on the floor full sheets but then you have a row of tile cut in half along the left wall. is it a better practice to cut the left and right side end rows of tiles versus only one row. i thought that was considered tacky?
@HomeAdditionPlus i hope no one already asked that question, but is it a bad idea to start the floor tiles before to wall tiles so water will slide on the wall and cant go between wall and floor tiles because wall tiles would be on top of floor tiles ? thank you ! excellent videos !
Good step by step instructions. I wanted to get your thoughts about some products to waterproof the shower. We usually recommend a waterproof wall backer like Wedi or Kerdi. For the joints we like to use urethane grout vs. standard sanded grout for improved waterproofing capabilities and for the base we like either a waterproof expanded or extruded polystyrene. What do you think of these products & approaches?
Hi great video but I have a question my shower has been gutted to the studs and floor the floor is concrete and sloped corectly but I'm not sure what to do next to the floor put on the membrane fill with mud and slope it then put thinset on top and tile thanks for any info
@bsl3216 If the pre-slope is already there, then all you need to do is install the membrane, add a final layer of mortar (maintaining the slope) andthen tile (using thinset for fastening the tiles). You didn't mention if the adjustable drain was in. I'm assuming it was.
What's the cost for someone to do this for me if I buy the tile, mortar, and backboard? It's for a shower size like the one you installed tile on. Thanks, any feedback appreciated. Looks easy but I'm not a hands on guy.
Hi I was wondering if you put any tile on the curb facing toward the shower or do you just leave it as mortar? If so is there any overhang of the tile that is on the top of the curb so you don't see the exposed mortar? How big would that overhang be?
Yes I put tiles facing toward the shower on the inside edge of the curb. After installing those tiles, I then put on the cap tiles on top of the curb so that they just over lap the edge of the side tiles running up along the curb edges.
Great video. Quick question: at the bottom of the wall tile, where it meets the floor tile, is it just a normal gout line, or a line filled with silicone or something?
Hi again....I have another question about installing the backer board.....I noticed that while using the power drill, when putting the screws in place....the backer board moves away from the studs, causing a space between the board and the studs......How do I avoid this problem?...Atfer removing the screw several times....I finally got it in place but it took alot of effort......I've watched so many videos and no one mentioned this problem, is it that I'm not used to handling the drill?....
Hi again...I realised after asking you the question about the original wall thickness....I was just looking at a bathroom similar to the way mine originally looked and I discovered that the tiled area in the BR....comes out about 1 inch past the above wall, is it necessary to do that?......because I'm thinking once I apply the thinset and marble tiles plus boarder,the tiled wall and the origanal wall will be about even....or should I bulid the wall back out entirely to cover the pipe area?.....
Its hard for me to fully understand what you are doing w/o a picture. It sounds like you're tiling the bottom half of the bathroom and that the original upper half finished surface sticks out a bit more than the tiled area. IF you want a flush tiled surface with the upper half of the wall, that sounds fine. However, in light of the pipe protrusion you may want to add that extra layer of 1/4" of backer board to hide it. Otherwise create a small boxed in area to go around the pipe.
Hi....still working slowly on the bathroom....in installing the backer board on the wall....I discovered that at the point where the original wall meets the area to be tiled at the point 3 1/2 ft. up,the oringinal wall is thicker by 1/4 inch or better, how do I make up the difference? add another 1/4 inch of backer board?....the 2nd question...behind the toilet area on the wall, there is a pipe that sticks out past the verticle studs in the wall, how do I cover that??....double the backerboard??
Hi....I have another question.....I bought a 5pc tool set by Robi....that had a circular saw ....reciprocating saw...etc ....the set included a drill...this is a cordless set....my son used it once to do a wood repair....the saw kept running out of battery power while he was cutting wood....the drill is also 18v....we only have 2 batteries....is the 18v enough power to use installing cement backer board continuously?......or should I buy another drill?....if so what voltage drill?........
It sounds like maybe the charger is not working well since both batteries seem to hold a charge for only a short time. This said, there is more energy required turning a blade through wood as there is so much more friction and torque involved.
I would try the drill out on the cement backerboard installtion first before either buying a replacement charger or new drill. I'd go with another 18V if I had to buy another one.
Hi...I ran into a problem...my bathroom was completely guted and the tub was replaced....the new tub is in place but it is about 1 inch shorter...so there is space between the studs and the tub edge...the question is...can I use a extra piece of cement board to cover the whole area so that it's even and nail it to the studs?...and then place a thiner cement board on top of that....because the edge of the cement board is supposed to fit over the edge of the tub to prevent water getting behind it?
Yes you will need to ad some type of filler. You possibly could consider adding an extra layer of backerboard or even plywood. Alterantively, you could just attach firring strips / strapping to the 2x4s, though you may need to rip your own with a skill saw or table saw to the desired thickness.
If I use the 1 by 1 tile sheets on the ceiling of the bathtub instead of the marble 12 by 12's ....it's a lot lighter in weight....and because of the mesh backing..... maybe it would stay in place??.....or would I still need to apply something flat against it until it drys?....or is there some type of fast drying thinset to use specifically for applying ceramic tiles to the ceiling??......
I enjoyed the video......I will start tiling my bathroom with in the next week.....but I really need to know how to apply the marble tile to the shower ceiling.....I haven't found a video that covers that yet.....so I'm thinking that if the bottom row of tiles need to be taped until dry...so my guess is I should do the ceiling first.....and maybe use a peice of cement board cut to fit the ceiling....and cover the tiled ceiling with it and anchor it against the 3 untiled walls of shower til dry??
I have never installed tile on a ceiling but your plan sounds reasonable. You may want to visit .thetiledoctor website to see what they say on the subject.
Always use a thinset mortar when using any type of tile in a wet area. Use the same techniques shown in this video for installing tile in a shower regardless if it is Porcelain or Ceramic tile.
excellent video and outstanding installer. i noticed that you have on the floor full sheets but then you have a row of tile cut in half along the left wall. is it a better practice to cut the left and right side end rows of tiles versus only one row. i thought that was considered tacky?
djkingpersia 1 month ago
@djkingpersia Since the tiles are so small (2"x2") you really can't see the difference.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 month ago
@HomeAdditionPlus i hope no one already asked that question, but is it a bad idea to start the floor tiles before to wall tiles so water will slide on the wall and cant go between wall and floor tiles because wall tiles would be on top of floor tiles ? thank you ! excellent videos !
shoyur 3 months ago
ceiling ???
th3inquisitiv31 4 months ago
Good step by step instructions. I wanted to get your thoughts about some products to waterproof the shower. We usually recommend a waterproof wall backer like Wedi or Kerdi. For the joints we like to use urethane grout vs. standard sanded grout for improved waterproofing capabilities and for the base we like either a waterproof expanded or extruded polystyrene. What do you think of these products & approaches?
glassblockinfo 8 months ago
Hi great video but I have a question my shower has been gutted to the studs and floor the floor is concrete and sloped corectly but I'm not sure what to do next to the floor put on the membrane fill with mud and slope it then put thinset on top and tile thanks for any info
bsl3216 8 months ago
@bsl3216 If the pre-slope is already there, then all you need to do is install the membrane, add a final layer of mortar (maintaining the slope) andthen tile (using thinset for fastening the tiles). You didn't mention if the adjustable drain was in. I'm assuming it was.
HomeAdditionPlus 8 months ago
What's the cost for someone to do this for me if I buy the tile, mortar, and backboard? It's for a shower size like the one you installed tile on. Thanks, any feedback appreciated. Looks easy but I'm not a hands on guy.
renedelafuente123 9 months ago
@renedelafuente123 It depends upon the size of the shower, but expect to pay at least a couple of grand.
HomeAdditionPlus 8 months ago
great video. Thanks
wagner03mustang 9 months ago
Hi I was wondering if you put any tile on the curb facing toward the shower or do you just leave it as mortar? If so is there any overhang of the tile that is on the top of the curb so you don't see the exposed mortar? How big would that overhang be?
brynda01 1 year ago
Yes I put tiles facing toward the shower on the inside edge of the curb. After installing those tiles, I then put on the cap tiles on top of the curb so that they just over lap the edge of the side tiles running up along the curb edges.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 year ago
Great video. Quick question: at the bottom of the wall tile, where it meets the floor tile, is it just a normal gout line, or a line filled with silicone or something?
TheStumpBoys 1 year ago
I used grout
HomeAdditionPlus 1 year ago
hello
awesome video ,
i was wondering - when are u using a hot mop if any ?
thank you
yossi5867 1 year ago
Hi again....I have another question about installing the backer board.....I noticed that while using the power drill, when putting the screws in place....the backer board moves away from the studs, causing a space between the board and the studs......How do I avoid this problem?...Atfer removing the screw several times....I finally got it in place but it took alot of effort......I've watched so many videos and no one mentioned this problem, is it that I'm not used to handling the drill?....
LADYAQUARIAN42 1 year ago
Hi again...I realised after asking you the question about the original wall thickness....I was just looking at a bathroom similar to the way mine originally looked and I discovered that the tiled area in the BR....comes out about 1 inch past the above wall, is it necessary to do that?......because I'm thinking once I apply the thinset and marble tiles plus boarder,the tiled wall and the origanal wall will be about even....or should I bulid the wall back out entirely to cover the pipe area?.....
LADYAQUARIAN42 1 year ago
Its hard for me to fully understand what you are doing w/o a picture. It sounds like you're tiling the bottom half of the bathroom and that the original upper half finished surface sticks out a bit more than the tiled area. IF you want a flush tiled surface with the upper half of the wall, that sounds fine. However, in light of the pipe protrusion you may want to add that extra layer of 1/4" of backer board to hide it. Otherwise create a small boxed in area to go around the pipe.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 year ago
Hi....still working slowly on the bathroom....in installing the backer board on the wall....I discovered that at the point where the original wall meets the area to be tiled at the point 3 1/2 ft. up,the oringinal wall is thicker by 1/4 inch or better, how do I make up the difference? add another 1/4 inch of backer board?....the 2nd question...behind the toilet area on the wall, there is a pipe that sticks out past the verticle studs in the wall, how do I cover that??....double the backerboard??
LADYAQUARIAN42 1 year ago
Hi....I have another question.....I bought a 5pc tool set by Robi....that had a circular saw ....reciprocating saw...etc ....the set included a drill...this is a cordless set....my son used it once to do a wood repair....the saw kept running out of battery power while he was cutting wood....the drill is also 18v....we only have 2 batteries....is the 18v enough power to use installing cement backer board continuously?......or should I buy another drill?....if so what voltage drill?........
LADYAQUARIAN42 1 year ago
It sounds like maybe the charger is not working well since both batteries seem to hold a charge for only a short time. This said, there is more energy required turning a blade through wood as there is so much more friction and torque involved.
I would try the drill out on the cement backerboard installtion first before either buying a replacement charger or new drill. I'd go with another 18V if I had to buy another one.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 year ago
Hi...I ran into a problem...my bathroom was completely guted and the tub was replaced....the new tub is in place but it is about 1 inch shorter...so there is space between the studs and the tub edge...the question is...can I use a extra piece of cement board to cover the whole area so that it's even and nail it to the studs?...and then place a thiner cement board on top of that....because the edge of the cement board is supposed to fit over the edge of the tub to prevent water getting behind it?
LADYAQUARIAN42 1 year ago
Yes you will need to ad some type of filler. You possibly could consider adding an extra layer of backerboard or even plywood. Alterantively, you could just attach firring strips / strapping to the 2x4s, though you may need to rip your own with a skill saw or table saw to the desired thickness.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 year ago
Love the videos!....they have been really helpful.....Thank you for sharing......
LADYAQUARIAN42 1 year ago
If I use the 1 by 1 tile sheets on the ceiling of the bathtub instead of the marble 12 by 12's ....it's a lot lighter in weight....and because of the mesh backing..... maybe it would stay in place??.....or would I still need to apply something flat against it until it drys?....or is there some type of fast drying thinset to use specifically for applying ceramic tiles to the ceiling??......
LADYAQUARIAN42 1 year ago
It may stay in place using the small tiles, however I would be prepared to hold the sheets in place with something.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 year ago
I enjoyed the video......I will start tiling my bathroom with in the next week.....but I really need to know how to apply the marble tile to the shower ceiling.....I haven't found a video that covers that yet.....so I'm thinking that if the bottom row of tiles need to be taped until dry...so my guess is I should do the ceiling first.....and maybe use a peice of cement board cut to fit the ceiling....and cover the tiled ceiling with it and anchor it against the 3 untiled walls of shower til dry??
LADYAQUARIAN42 1 year ago
I have never installed tile on a ceiling but your plan sounds reasonable. You may want to visit .thetiledoctor website to see what they say on the subject.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 year ago
Which one is better to tile the ceiling?... Thin set or Mastik?
How can I tile a shower ceiling with porcelain 18x18 tiles ?.. Should I use the Thin Set or Mastik?.. Thanks for any help you can give me..
God Bless
Harley C
BarrerasPlayas 1 year ago
Always use a thinset mortar when using any type of tile in a wet area. Use the same techniques shown in this video for installing tile in a shower regardless if it is Porcelain or Ceramic tile.
HomeAdditionPlus 1 year ago