Thanks for the video. I'm just want to know if you can actually list the items that were used, like knowing the pipe sizes and other things used in the description box.
I think the trick to the weight displacement is to get the counterweights to be exactly beaneath the line of the camera and the hand. I believe that if you put the counterweights directly under your camera the balance will be more accurate. I still haven't tried it myself, I'm about to construct this design at home, but it's a good theory, hehe.
Both the Traxxas 1651 or 1951 U-joints can be used for the gimbal mod. The only difference is the length of the parts. You can also modify with male or female parts, so don't toss away whichever pieces you choose not to use. You may be making more for friends later, so don't toss the other parts out.
This is a nice modification and looks easy to make if you can locate the exact tripod for donation to the project.
* The Traxxas u-joint pins are not easy to install unless you know the trick.
Both the Traxxas 1651 or 1951 U-joints can be used for the gimbal mod. The only difference is the length of the parts. You can also modify with male or female parts, so don't toss away whichever pieces you choose not to use. You may be making more for friends later, so don't toss the other parts out.
This is a nice modification and looks easy to make if you can locate the exact tripod for donation to the project.
* The Traxxas u-joint pins are not easy to install unless you know the trick.
Great design. This was almost exactly the way I wanted to make mine, but your use of the tripod parts is fantastic. Do you remember what the model and cost of the tripod was?
@joshdoube Thanks. Targus is the company that makes notebook bags. I see now that your video did show the tripod pricing - sorry. So, I guess you had to see the tripod in person to know that it would fit the electrical conduit.
Did you manage to figure out how to distribute the weight so that there would be less swing? Is there a proper name for those type of washers? I'm thinking about how to make the arc more adjustable, which has been my only hesitation for using PVC piping.
@IIjanyII It's actually called "Conduit" and it can be found with the electrical supplies, because normally you run wire through it.
Specifically it's all 1/2 inch conduit pieces, because, if you saw during the quick assembly, you have to pry open the tripod pieces to get them to fit.
I've had trouble getting consistently smooth shots with homemade stabilizers. Thanks for the recommendation HeadofBEar, $38 is pretty damn good for the Cam Caddie I think I'll try one looks like a solid design.
Looks pretty good but I would never trust my DSLR on something I built at home. I've been using the Cam Caddie Scorpion. $38 and all my shots have been so much better since I picked it up a few months ago. It also allows me to attach mics and lights for night shoots.
I bought a Cam Caddie Scorpion, and it was a purchase I regret. It's OK as a regular rig, but worthless as a steadicam. Anyone considering this should just go online and look for demo / test footage. SHA-A-A-KY!
good project. but guys, if you're just patient at ebay, you can buy a steady cam just like this for 60$. Lensse MidX Camera Stabilizer. I got mine for 61$ from auction. yes, you can save money in making your own. at the very least, you'll be spending $25 for the materials in this, but that does not include the travel expenses, the hassle in designing and building, the hassle in looking for the parts. I support DIY's, but there's a less hassle way on getting this plus its more pro looking.
I'm working on the gimble right now; got the u-joint and the skateboard bearing but I'm not sure what to do for the handle to mount the bearing....any suggestions?
@unchanny you can use a flash light, just find one that will support baring. Or you can find a PVC pipe. I believe you can heat it up, but do research before attempting. Good Luck.
@unchanny GUYS NO NEED TO BUY THE SKATEBOARD BEARINGS AND PVC FOR GIMBAL. Go get a jumprope and typically the handle will have a bearing inside of it. I'll be posting a video in the next few hours and I'll show you what I'm talking about.
@theCRAZYartGUY I'm guessing the balance. Make sure that the U-joint in the baring is completely level. I also find when working with the steadicam it does help to keep some small pressure with your thumb. Hope this helps.
@theCRAZYartGUY u could grab the Cam Caddie off Amazon for $35 it easily supports my camera, both my LED lights, and a mic. I'm going to adda monitor and my independent setup is complete!
@VideoHelpProduction No problem. I believe you have a CLR type camera, so it may be difficult to balance. You may have to do some modifications at the top of the rig. Just try to distribute an = amount of weight so the center (weight wise) is the post where the tripod attaches. Hope this helps. And a heads up, it is not easy to find the balance, and don't think that the tubbing has to be straight. You'll have to tweak and adjust until you find the balance.
Nice design, sure i see a few tweaks but that will be the case for each user and each desired setup. The bottom line is, you did a great job. It functions well from the test video video shared. thanks. It was a great help, I am in the process of building my own now.
this has got to be the best configuration (for what i have available) that i've seen since i've got no metalworking tools at my disposal. i just got the Targus tripod and already have the working gimbal. i just need the frame, washers, mounts, bolts and a flashlight for the handle. cheers!
@DAHdeeism This might be pointless since your comment is 7 months old, but you can pick up a cheap $6 Jump Rope from Walmart that has bearings in the handle.
Sorry carlito, I do not have a parts list made up. Any large hardware store will have the majority of items. The taxxis piece can be purchased a hobby store that specializes in remote control cars. Good luck.
built a steadicam by your design yesterday for my T2i, but I don't know what I'm doing wrong.. I used your design almost to a T, but i cannot get it balanced for the life of me.. if it leans at all slightly, it completely falls to that side. everything i do to try to fix it is counter productive it seems.. any advice?
@Caglehead268 I was wondering how these pipes would hold up against a DSLR. I think the problem is going to be the top part used to mount the camera. I personally built my own steadicam using a t2i and I used a sliding plate and believe me, it helps tremendously! check out my video: glidecam vs diy steadicam and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Hopfully you answer my question, what kink of mount configuration would I be looking for if I wanted to slowly pan the veiw of the camera up. Watch some plane takeoff videos of mine and you can kindof see why I'm looking in to stabilization.
Possible improvement: Replace your grip with a coupling implement so you can attach it to any other rigs (e.g. shoulder harness, jib or dolly) you might build in the future. Adding a 1/2" bolt should not be rocket science, and you can attach your grip underneath if you want to shoot freehand.
You might also want to add a little more weight on the bottom end to combat the swaying in turns.
Great build! i will be trying to do my own in a few days. I found this universal joint made by the RC car company OFNA, it is full metal, might prove to be a little stronger OFNA #15100
also i have to ask, have you tried taking that onto a plane? i am going on vacation shortly and would like to take this along with me, but i don't check any bags, and words on that?
I have not traveled with the steadicam. I often wondered if that would be a security issue. I'm sure it would raise a few questions if you were to put in a carrie-on bag. Let me know how it works out, or I'll just watch for you on CNN.
Man, this is a great build. I have everything but the gimble assembly, and even without it (just balancing on a screw driver) I'm impressed. I used a broken mini tripod (from the dollar store) and was able to connect the head piece on pretty cleanly. Also, I didnt use the pvc clips you used. I used metal conduit hangers. They look nicer still cheap though and I thought the clips were kinda flimsy. Once I figure out my gimble, I'll probably do a write up on it and post a link soon.
nice. one little tip from an electrician- instead of using all the pvc fittings, you can just heat the one piece of pipe with a heatgun, or simply over an electric stove and bend it on a flat surface to any shape you want, then cool it off with a wet rag
Thank you so much for the helpful post. I copied your design, then tweaked on it by doing away with the 45* piece on the bottom and coupled on a straight piece about 2 1/2". I found this puts the bottom counterweight straight under the gimbal and camera. Seemed having the counterweight at the bottom being positioned behind the center of gravity of the gimbal and camera caused the rig to sway, tilt, and rotate excessively. Maybe this tweak will help your rig too.
@NguMeister I ALMOST thumb-ed that up because I enjoyed the comment... But then I saw the last sentence about asking for thumbs up and decided against it.
VERY cool video... one thing I noticed in the test footage is... it appears that you're getting a bit of a pendulum effect. (The rig starts to swing when you slow down or stop)
You can eliminate that by reducing the distance of the arch from the back plate (where you camera mounts) to the lower finishing weight... try around 10" and then lower the amount of weight on the lower arm to compensate for the reduced arch. That should eliminate the bottom heaviness and pendulum.
Thanks Josh for the video. I built one last night for my Sony Handicam and found the following: the clamps for the fender washer weights were only available at my local Lowes instead of Home Depot. Target had the tripod and the parts make it look factory made. Assembly is made easier with some PVC glue and a flat surface to pre-assemble. I added small screws to each joint and it's sturdy.
Gimbal is 3/4 inch PVC with a slight widening for the skate bearing (dremel).Super glue bearing in place.
Amazing! Yes It is still wobbly but nonetheless, urs is the best I've seen so far. Unlike those engineers' diy videos who have access to cutting machines, this looks like any normal person can do. Not saying it's easy but at least, we know we can make it from parts that are easily available.
Josh, thanks so much for taking the time and effort to put this together. I just finished using your instructions to build one of these for myself. I am very mechanically impaired and I was able to accomplish the same results.. I will now have to research weighting and how to adjust to best accommodate less wobble. Great Job! Thanks again.
Just wanted to let you know that I believe you may be using many more weights then necessary. You have so many weights below that you've had to add some to the top where the camera is. I have made them with conduit and it's almost balanced even before adding weights. If you exploit that, you can have a very light stabilizer which is really nice.
Good design because of the commonly available parts. I am going to do sometthing very similar. I don't love the shaved down shaft to fit the 8mm OD skateboard bearing so I am looking at bearings with slightly different OD.
Are your weights assembled with a small spring so you can push them around?
Excellent! You've just saved me a lot of money! seriously, your designed is possibly better than the original by virtue of its ability for pre-balance. I've played with the original and getting balance takes much time and practice. Yours seems to have a bit of pre-balance. I'm gonna try this, I'll let you know, thanks!
From watching you're video it looks like it's a little too bottom heavy. Try taking some weight off the lower arm or move it up. I think you'll find it wobbles way less when you start moving, you should be able to eleminate all wobble. Static stability is easy, people don't think about dynamic stability.
The gimbal design probably works and the whole thing does stabilize your footy but I think there's still work required on the weighing tweaking part. It still *wobbles* from side to side a lot. I think you need to practice more. But good job anyway!
Josh, thanks for the great tutorial. It was probably the easiest one to build on Youtube. It works pretty well when perfectly balanced, and that's where the problem lies. DIY steadicams take a long time to fine tune. Merlin, on the other hand, has precise controls for balancing for all axis, but it costs $800.
After many frustrating hours of trying to balance the DIY version, I finally broke down and bought a used Merlin. You got me interested in the whole project, however. Thanks.
Josh, thanks for the great tutorial. It was probably the easiest one to build on Youtube. It works pretty well when perfectly balanced, and that's where the problem lies.
To get it perfect, it takes a long time to fine tune. Merlin, on the other hand, has precise control for balancing for all axis, but it costs $800.
After many frustrating hours of trying to balance the DIY version, I finally broke down and bought a used Merlin. You got me interested in the whole project, however. Thanks.
Nice tutorial and well explained! That gimbal was the part that was giving me grief, and your video was the clearest I have found thus far on what to use and where to get it. Thanks!
The Merlin is very badly manufactured. There is a single screw that holds the body plate on to the first arm and it always comes loose, meaning that you always have trouble finding the perfect fulcrum. I have one. My Z1 is the heaviest you can use for it and the results are not great. Well, probably better if you had the Steadicam team with you to fix the problems. The Glide Cams look good but not seen one in practice. My advice is make your own. Also go get a Canon 5D -VivLaRevolution
I'm pretty sure the reason/reasons you are getting "wobble" is because you don't have the "Gimble" just above the complete rigs center of gravity.. did you set the drop time? it should be 2 seconds.. I'm betting you are bottom heavy.. that is where your "wobble" is coming from.. the weights are lagging behind the camera.. (CG will fix that) don't forget you may need to move the camera as well to get the CG right..
Thanks for the detailed video. Have you been able to eliminate the wobble? I built my own from your ideas, with a few minor changes, but the wobble is terrible on mine. I used a ball-joint instead of the gimble, which may be part of the problem, but that eliminated the need for the skateboard bearing and still gives me free motion. Not sure I like it though. Great simple design though, Thanks!
wow man verry impressive, even without the weights exact! the only part that didn't look like the real merlin was at 6:02. Just need one of these that will work with my dvx:)
A very informative video. I've watched a few other videos re: DIY steadicams and this one seems to be one of the more practical builds. It's a lighter weight and similar to the Merlin in its basic design. This may be my next project. Thanks for posting this video.
To assemble the u-joint you just need a flathead screw driver. The best way to do it is secure one end in a vice(if you have one) then place one post of the center piece into a hole. With the flathead you will then push the other post down into the other hole. You may need a hammer to help you "tap" it in. Does this explanation help?
Two ways to deal with rotation: repack your bearring with a VERY thick bearing grease (this will creat smooth drag, but veary upon temps). Or string and cross two rubber bands from the mount along the ujoint to the handle.
I think the reason its a little too wobbly is because the top is too heavy.
I would recommend removing the weights at the back of the camera and probably removing some at the front if it the back becomes to heavy or you could adjust the handle forward a little bit.
BTW: I have the same tripod so I'm gonna try this method :)
It's great dude, still a bit wobbly, I bet with a little more weight on the bottom or lower the weight on the bottom down more, should be awesome, also a little more drag on the gimbal, or a ball joint style gimbal with a rotational bearing inside it.
If you're really feeling plucky, maybe hit up an RC Shop and pick up a Gold-n-rod cable and attach it so you can make a rotation function too, one that you don't have to touch the actual assembly interrupting its balance.
I only put tape on the U-joint of the "gimbal" to reduce the sway. The tape around the Traxxis U-joint dampens the excess sway when moving. Hope that clears things up.
If you want to reduce the diameter of the part like the UJ component in this video, and want it to be concentric, try sticking it at its full length in a drill chuck and spinning it and filing it at the same time. You can then cut it to length: Poor man's lathe.
but i'd be afraid of fatgigue failure of the stressed brackets / heavy load of camera leading to failure and an expensive accident. I think this is a GREAT idea for smaller cameras but be warned before you buy a lot of washers etc and the tripod this is really too flimsy for heavier cameras. On that note if someone has found an effective way to stabilize a heavy ish slr (and not be afraid of the whole thing falling apart) could you hit me up? cheers
I think this is a really good idea BUT if u are trying to do this for a heavier slr camera such as a 7d its not realy sturdy enough. The tripod mount is too flimsy and the way the fittings don't really fit onto 1/2" pipe means you can either pare the pipe WAY back and try and get it on with the screw (inside the fitting the adjustment screw cuts into the I.D about 1/8"), or go with the suggested method of just squeezing it on...
I think he meant the Walmart tripod. Or he's just trolling. Cool idea using the leftover tripod leg.
I'm trying to build my own version too, did you manage to perfectly center the Traxxas on the skateboard bearing? Mine is slightly offset since I dremeled it by hand.
very cool idea for making a cheap merlin! i actually have a merlin and i can tell you the swaying you're seeing is due to too much weight at the bottom. the test is to put your camera on, swing the bottom so that the camera is 90 degrees and then let go. it should take 1-2 seconds to drop back to the regular position. it should kinda float back into place. if it drops faster than that, there's too much weight at the bottom. once you get that right it won't swing so much. great job!
i actually made this steadycam like a month back and it worked great for about a week but then i guess my camera is just a bit too heavy so everything kept going off balance until i finally got the right amount of weights...but then the tripod head broke right in the middle of a shoot..lol
i'm still working on some mods to make it fit my needs..but thanks!..great design
have you had any luck? I was starting to think the overall size of the unit is just too small to balance something as heavy as the 7d, even with a short light prime like the 50mm 1.8. The main problem seems the camera is so side-heavy that a tiny movement throws it out of balance without a really heavy counterweight
p.s I stay out at west harbour most weekends when I get back to nz I'd love to come meet up in titirangi and see if you could get it to work!
Still waiting for parts from ebay, and yes bit worried about the weight distribution up top. Mostly concerned with the reliability of the connection between the handle/gimbel/base plate though - dont want my 7D to hit the dirt. I'm working in middle east now, waiting for John to sort out our mental tax system before consider coming back. For the life of me I cant work out how these merlins could ever work with DOF gear like HDSLR, researching follow focus options now. Good fun though eh!
also something I found critical was try as hard as you can to keep the camera as low to the swivel point of the gimbal as possible, if your rig sits too high above the pivot point the moments created by the heavy camera (especially side to side) become a lot larger and extremely hard to balance dynamically, i.e they're alway falling over in one direction or another! Drove me nuts before I gave up
yeah I worked that one out already tanks. Bit worried about the side heavy issue - may be a show stopper for this lil guy although few vids around showing 5dm2 on merlin working ok so it must be possible.
i've noticed that you own a Canon HV30 camcorder and though my question has nothing to do with the steadicam construction, i would appreciate any answer.
Iam currently thinking on getting my first camcorder to shoot short films and there are two on my mind, both Canon: HF S100 (or S10) or the HV40. The latter has real native 24p but stores on tape.
Which one would you pick?
Btw, once i have the camera i'll make my own steadicam for sure so thnks for the vid, i checked WSCLATER, awesome too.
24p for sure... doesnt matter thats a tape... it will take a further time to copy movies from camcorder to pc and load up .. but the quaility si what you want and need .. (i think)..
Third question, in the top male part of the gimbal that fits into the tripod part, did you attach the male part some way, or is it loose and will come out as soon as you set the rig down??
In the video it is in loose. I have since then wrapped tape around the male end, it stays in fairly well. I also wrapped tape (medical tape) around the U-joint itself. That has reduced a lot of the smaller sway that it hard to balance out with weights. Good luck.
I would of suggested using surgical tubing or rubber bands around the joint as a more permanent fix. Nice work, smart way to save a couple hundred dollars!!
Josh, great idea. I'm trying one myself. two questions, first did you try and put any weights on the inside of the tube, like steel stot or something to stabize it? Second have you tryed making any type of vehicle mount for it, like for a mountain bike or car?
I did try a lot with the weights, I tried putting some on the sides and every way you can imagine. The way I have it now is no weight on the top and additional weight on the bottom. Side weights seem to increase sway. Your best bet is forward and bottom weights inline with the camera.
Thanks Josh. I made some changes to how the gimbal assembly mounts (same way as yours), but now I can't balance it at all! I think I'll need to increase the vertical length of the assembly. My camera is 3 lbs with the big zoom on it. Difficult to balance, to put it mildly.
Yeah 3lbs. is pretty heavy. You would really need a lot of weight on the bottom, more than a bolt full of washers would provide. I'm thinking maybe if you bought a T joint for the bottom part of the tubing and added two bolts full of washers...just thinking you need more weight on the bottom.
I think I have that same tripod. 50" targus from targert?
No way in heck I can get that fitting on the 1/2 inch conduit I have. At least not without really forcing it how did you get it on there? Brute force? Shaving down the outer diameter?
Heh, thanks. What I ended up doing was reducing the OD of the pipe at the ends and slipping it on :-). Worked like a charm.
I've never used one of these before, but, I am finding it difficult to get the camera to point where I want it to. i.e., I'll be moving in one direction, and then if I turn, the lens is still pointing in the same direction it originally was.
It does take some practice. I'm still learning. I would suggest using your thumb to move the camera the direction you want. A little pressure goes a long way.
Josh how to make the conduit mount?
Douchefilm 1 week ago
It's pretty good right now, but I am sure you can improve it. Thanks for sharing.
didanhtennis 2 weeks ago
As a suggestion I would add more weight, it seems it could still be steadier.
Enlazador9 3 weeks ago
Thanks for the video. I'm just want to know if you can actually list the items that were used, like knowing the pipe sizes and other things used in the description box.
2315MARCO 2 months ago
I think the trick to the weight displacement is to get the counterweights to be exactly beaneath the line of the camera and the hand. I believe that if you put the counterweights directly under your camera the balance will be more accurate. I still haven't tried it myself, I'm about to construct this design at home, but it's a good theory, hehe.
Good luck!
HitchElGrande 2 months ago
The u joints are usually expensive.
Shainkov 3 months ago
could you give me a list for all of the parts needed for this?
FreshAsphalt 3 months ago
@FreshAsphalt all the parts you need are in the video.
joshdoube 3 months ago
Both the Traxxas 1651 or 1951 U-joints can be used for the gimbal mod. The only difference is the length of the parts. You can also modify with male or female parts, so don't toss away whichever pieces you choose not to use. You may be making more for friends later, so don't toss the other parts out.
This is a nice modification and looks easy to make if you can locate the exact tripod for donation to the project.
* The Traxxas u-joint pins are not easy to install unless you know the trick.
a1930ford 4 months ago in playlist a1930ford's Favorited Videos
Both the Traxxas 1651 or 1951 U-joints can be used for the gimbal mod. The only difference is the length of the parts. You can also modify with male or female parts, so don't toss away whichever pieces you choose not to use. You may be making more for friends later, so don't toss the other parts out.
This is a nice modification and looks easy to make if you can locate the exact tripod for donation to the project.
* The Traxxas u-joint pins are not easy to install unless you know the trick.
a1930ford 4 months ago in playlist a1930ford's Favorited Videos
Can we get a less quick narrated build process?
ebb0246 4 months ago
Great design. This was almost exactly the way I wanted to make mine, but your use of the tripod parts is fantastic. Do you remember what the model and cost of the tripod was?
Kayko2000 4 months ago
@Kayko2000 The cost was around $15, and it was purchased at Target. The brand name is Targus, I'm assuming a Target store brand.
joshdoube 4 months ago
@joshdoube Thanks. Targus is the company that makes notebook bags. I see now that your video did show the tripod pricing - sorry. So, I guess you had to see the tripod in person to know that it would fit the electrical conduit.
Did you manage to figure out how to distribute the weight so that there would be less swing? Is there a proper name for those type of washers? I'm thinking about how to make the arc more adjustable, which has been my only hesitation for using PVC piping.
Kayko2000 4 months ago
@Kayko2000 I'm in the process of making one like this. Those washers are specifically called "Fender Washers"
ebb0246 4 months ago in playlist ebb0246's Favorited Videos
@joshdoube No, targus brand is carried at most major retailers I believe. I've seen a targus SD card reader at Walmart at least.
cyrax037 2 months ago
could write the measurements of the PVC pipe? pleaaaaaaaase XD ^^
IIjanyII 5 months ago
@IIjanyII It's actually called "Conduit" and it can be found with the electrical supplies, because normally you run wire through it.
Specifically it's all 1/2 inch conduit pieces, because, if you saw during the quick assembly, you have to pry open the tripod pieces to get them to fit.
ebb0246 4 months ago in playlist ebb0246's Favorited Videos
@ebb0246 thanks!!!
IIjanyII 4 months ago
So easy ! Thanks man!
eyeoftiger101 5 months ago
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I've had trouble getting consistently smooth shots with homemade stabilizers. Thanks for the recommendation HeadofBEar, $38 is pretty damn good for the Cam Caddie I think I'll try one looks like a solid design.
DraculaTeeth333 5 months ago in playlist Steadycam DIY / Homebuild stabilizer
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Looks pretty good but I would never trust my DSLR on something I built at home. I've been using the Cam Caddie Scorpion. $38 and all my shots have been so much better since I picked it up a few months ago. It also allows me to attach mics and lights for night shoots.
theHeadofbear 6 months ago
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@theHeadofbear
I bought a Cam Caddie Scorpion, and it was a purchase I regret. It's OK as a regular rig, but worthless as a steadicam. Anyone considering this should just go online and look for demo / test footage. SHA-A-A-KY!
Jacobianlas 4 months ago
good project. but guys, if you're just patient at ebay, you can buy a steady cam just like this for 60$. Lensse MidX Camera Stabilizer. I got mine for 61$ from auction. yes, you can save money in making your own. at the very least, you'll be spending $25 for the materials in this, but that does not include the travel expenses, the hassle in designing and building, the hassle in looking for the parts. I support DIY's, but there's a less hassle way on getting this plus its more pro looking.
TheConcept8 6 months ago
can this work with a gopro cam?
israelpinedo 6 months ago
I'm working on the gimble right now; got the u-joint and the skateboard bearing but I'm not sure what to do for the handle to mount the bearing....any suggestions?
unchanny 6 months ago
@unchanny you can use a flash light, just find one that will support baring. Or you can find a PVC pipe. I believe you can heat it up, but do research before attempting. Good Luck.
joshdoube 6 months ago
@unchanny GUYS NO NEED TO BUY THE SKATEBOARD BEARINGS AND PVC FOR GIMBAL. Go get a jumprope and typically the handle will have a bearing inside of it. I'll be posting a video in the next few hours and I'll show you what I'm talking about.
defnyung 6 months ago
i made something like this and the scateboard baring keeps making my steadicam sway left and right..... know how to get rid of this? thanks :D
theCRAZYartGUY 6 months ago
@theCRAZYartGUY I'm guessing the balance. Make sure that the U-joint in the baring is completely level. I also find when working with the steadicam it does help to keep some small pressure with your thumb. Hope this helps.
joshdoube 6 months ago
@theCRAZYartGUY u could grab the Cam Caddie off Amazon for $35 it easily supports my camera, both my LED lights, and a mic. I'm going to adda monitor and my independent setup is complete!
ObjectiveVision 6 months ago
Can someone PLEASE tell me what to do if when I hold the steadicam it spins
schproductions416 7 months ago
@VideoHelpProduction No problem. I believe you have a CLR type camera, so it may be difficult to balance. You may have to do some modifications at the top of the rig. Just try to distribute an = amount of weight so the center (weight wise) is the post where the tripod attaches. Hope this helps. And a heads up, it is not easy to find the balance, and don't think that the tubbing has to be straight. You'll have to tweak and adjust until you find the balance.
joshdoube 7 months ago
This thing doesnt work for DSLR's. Found out the hard way. Impossible to balance. 60 bucks down the drain.
rook2485 8 months ago
@rook2485 well its better than 800 bucks down the drain for the real thing
kurtrules100 7 months ago
Gotta say, I still use this design almost 2 years after building it. Thanks again for sharing your design!
trinkosol 9 months ago
Nice design, sure i see a few tweaks but that will be the case for each user and each desired setup. The bottom line is, you did a great job. It functions well from the test video video shared. thanks. It was a great help, I am in the process of building my own now.
CAJUNNSC 10 months ago
nice turorial, thanx for the upload. regards Jan
everland69 11 months ago
what hobby store haas that Traxxas u joint thing?
NeonMoron 11 months ago
@NeonMoron Any place that specializes in R/C cars
joshdoube 11 months ago
this has got to be the best configuration (for what i have available) that i've seen since i've got no metalworking tools at my disposal. i just got the Targus tripod and already have the working gimbal. i just need the frame, washers, mounts, bolts and a flashlight for the handle. cheers!
DAHdeeism 11 months ago
@DAHdeeism This might be pointless since your comment is 7 months old, but you can pick up a cheap $6 Jump Rope from Walmart that has bearings in the handle.
ebb0246 4 months ago
You're a rockstar. Thanks, man... great tutorial. Soon enough... MacGyvering a Merlin will be commonplace.
MrHowardQuinn 11 months ago
Do these parts fit? Are they the right ones to secure? (Search it on ebay, because links are not accepted on youtube.)
Traxxas 1651 Half Shafts U-Joints Bandit VXL XL-5
Nikon Ni400 stativ CANON Tripod Sony Camera & Camcorder
McLe230 1 year ago
@joshdoube do you think i can get the part list
carlito231000 1 year ago
Sorry carlito, I do not have a parts list made up. Any large hardware store will have the majority of items. The taxxis piece can be purchased a hobby store that specializes in remote control cars. Good luck.
joshdoube 1 year ago
built a steadicam by your design yesterday for my T2i, but I don't know what I'm doing wrong.. I used your design almost to a T, but i cannot get it balanced for the life of me.. if it leans at all slightly, it completely falls to that side. everything i do to try to fix it is counter productive it seems.. any advice?
Caglehead268 1 year ago
@Caglehead268 I was wondering how these pipes would hold up against a DSLR. I think the problem is going to be the top part used to mount the camera. I personally built my own steadicam using a t2i and I used a sliding plate and believe me, it helps tremendously! check out my video: glidecam vs diy steadicam and you'll see what I'm talking about.
defnyung 11 months ago
Hopfully you answer my question, what kink of mount configuration would I be looking for if I wanted to slowly pan the veiw of the camera up. Watch some plane takeoff videos of mine and you can kindof see why I'm looking in to stabilization.
Thanks
Helicopterpilot16 1 year ago
Possible improvement: Replace your grip with a coupling implement so you can attach it to any other rigs (e.g. shoulder harness, jib or dolly) you might build in the future. Adding a 1/2" bolt should not be rocket science, and you can attach your grip underneath if you want to shoot freehand.
You might also want to add a little more weight on the bottom end to combat the swaying in turns.
Stoney3K 1 year ago
where the bloody hell do i get a gimbal? and what do i ask for?
tarrizzzzzzzzz 1 year ago
Great build! i will be trying to do my own in a few days. I found this universal joint made by the RC car company OFNA, it is full metal, might prove to be a little stronger OFNA #15100
also i have to ask, have you tried taking that onto a plane? i am going on vacation shortly and would like to take this along with me, but i don't check any bags, and words on that?
slowsword 1 year ago
I have not traveled with the steadicam. I often wondered if that would be a security issue. I'm sure it would raise a few questions if you were to put in a carrie-on bag. Let me know how it works out, or I'll just watch for you on CNN.
joshdoube 1 year ago 13
@joshdoube will do, if i am on the news i'll give you a shoutout hahah
slowsword 1 year ago
Man, this is a great build. I have everything but the gimble assembly, and even without it (just balancing on a screw driver) I'm impressed. I used a broken mini tripod (from the dollar store) and was able to connect the head piece on pretty cleanly. Also, I didnt use the pvc clips you used. I used metal conduit hangers. They look nicer still cheap though and I thought the clips were kinda flimsy. Once I figure out my gimble, I'll probably do a write up on it and post a link soon.
joeny1980 1 year ago
nice. one little tip from an electrician- instead of using all the pvc fittings, you can just heat the one piece of pipe with a heatgun, or simply over an electric stove and bend it on a flat surface to any shape you want, then cool it off with a wet rag
23tazika 1 year ago
use two males? thats gay
ImRedBlueGreen 1 year ago
Thank you so much for the helpful post. I copied your design, then tweaked on it by doing away with the 45* piece on the bottom and coupled on a straight piece about 2 1/2". I found this puts the bottom counterweight straight under the gimbal and camera. Seemed having the counterweight at the bottom being positioned behind the center of gravity of the gimbal and camera caused the rig to sway, tilt, and rotate excessively. Maybe this tweak will help your rig too.
grunner30 1 year ago
if you look up traxxas 1651 on amazon, you'll find that people wind up buying that and some bearings.
if you further look into it, you'll see people wind up buying the traxxas 1651, bearings, AND a flashlight....
hmmm thumbs up if you think this movie has anything to do with it.
NguMeister 1 year ago
That's too funny!
joshdoube 1 year ago
@NguMeister I ALMOST thumb-ed that up because I enjoyed the comment... But then I saw the last sentence about asking for thumbs up and decided against it.
loser23jtw 1 year ago
@loser23jtw I guess I was asking too much :)
NguMeister 1 year ago
Comment removed
hung22ny 1 year ago
@hung22ny I used extra 1/2" pvc (about 5 inches), and a copper connector piece( i don't recall the size) and press fit the pvc and bearings into it.
I've finished mine, but I have issues regarding side to side balance, I can get forward/back balance but it tends to swing side to side awkwardly.
NguMeister 1 year ago
VERY cool video... one thing I noticed in the test footage is... it appears that you're getting a bit of a pendulum effect. (The rig starts to swing when you slow down or stop)
You can eliminate that by reducing the distance of the arch from the back plate (where you camera mounts) to the lower finishing weight... try around 10" and then lower the amount of weight on the lower arm to compensate for the reduced arch. That should eliminate the bottom heaviness and pendulum.
Congiano 1 year ago
Thanks Josh for the video. I built one last night for my Sony Handicam and found the following: the clamps for the fender washer weights were only available at my local Lowes instead of Home Depot. Target had the tripod and the parts make it look factory made. Assembly is made easier with some PVC glue and a flat surface to pre-assemble. I added small screws to each joint and it's sturdy.
Gimbal is 3/4 inch PVC with a slight widening for the skate bearing (dremel).Super glue bearing in place.
Sire743 1 year ago
Can't wait to see it! Just make sure that you have your balance adjusted before you glue.
joshdoube 1 year ago
@Sire743 you can use ballbearings for the gimbals..
it's smooth.. isolates the unit well.. try to see my design,
glidecam type.. thanks
DIYfilmaker 1 year ago
THX for posting
Bluepulli 1 year ago
Amazing! Yes It is still wobbly but nonetheless, urs is the best I've seen so far. Unlike those engineers' diy videos who have access to cutting machines, this looks like any normal person can do. Not saying it's easy but at least, we know we can make it from parts that are easily available.
stopitsiak 1 year ago
This is awesome!!!
I am planing on making two.. since there are two major kinds of Steadicams.
Yours is the best stabilizer DYI I have found yet!
AWESOME!!!
jldunsmore 1 year ago
where I can get the "Traxxas"?
MrAntotonio 1 year ago
Josh, thanks so much for taking the time and effort to put this together. I just finished using your instructions to build one of these for myself. I am very mechanically impaired and I was able to accomplish the same results.. I will now have to research weighting and how to adjust to best accommodate less wobble. Great Job! Thanks again.
lowbar77 1 year ago
Just wanted to let you know that I believe you may be using many more weights then necessary. You have so many weights below that you've had to add some to the top where the camera is. I have made them with conduit and it's almost balanced even before adding weights. If you exploit that, you can have a very light stabilizer which is really nice.
meusikman21 1 year ago
@meusikman21 try to see my stabilzer.. aluminium laightweight..
low mode..tnx
DIYfilmaker 1 year ago
I like the "WTF!?" look on the kid at 5:42
CDFfilms 1 year ago
man i cant balance mine at all, how do u do it? my camera is like 1.16 lbs, urs is wat, i think 1.3, please help me
SmpleFilms 1 year ago
cool, thanks man i think im gonna try and make the one you built. ROCK ON DUDE.
dbzgt545 1 year ago
How much does the whole thing weigh (without the camera)? And that U-Joint (#1651) looks a bit puny to me - or is it fine enough?
Nice stuff though :)
DSpeedtouch 1 year ago
Good design because of the commonly available parts. I am going to do sometthing very similar. I don't love the shaved down shaft to fit the 8mm OD skateboard bearing so I am looking at bearings with slightly different OD.
Are your weights assembled with a small spring so you can push them around?
quadbravo 1 year ago
love it
TheLukepetty 1 year ago
Any suggestions for try'n to put a Canon 7D on that bad boy. Assembled everything only to find out the Canon Camera was was to heavy.
Also I found a flashlight at Home Depot to hold the bearing, works great!
13twentythree 1 year ago
where did you get the conduit clamps I cant seem to find it? please let me know thanks
5sunny01 1 year ago
I search around and I think your tripod is Targus Extendable Tripod - 50" (TG-5060TR) em I right?
phete010 1 year ago
@phete010 it is. I stopped the vid at 1:12 and captured the still. It matches the photo on Target's site. You got it.
quadbravo 1 year ago
hi..can you post what brand/model of the tripod you used..thanks!
phete010 1 year ago
hi, can you post the part number or model number/brand of the tripod that you used?
phete010 1 year ago
cool design for the stedicam. The test footage looked amazing (I felt like the camera was flying.) How much does it cost to make?
MusicBySav 1 year ago
Excellent! You've just saved me a lot of money! seriously, your designed is possibly better than the original by virtue of its ability for pre-balance. I've played with the original and getting balance takes much time and practice. Yours seems to have a bit of pre-balance. I'm gonna try this, I'll let you know, thanks!
TheWarRoomInc 1 year ago
hi, which one is better to use? Traxxas #1651 or Traxxas #5151, thanks
interArchtive 1 year ago
From watching you're video it looks like it's a little too bottom heavy. Try taking some weight off the lower arm or move it up. I think you'll find it wobbles way less when you start moving, you should be able to eleminate all wobble. Static stability is easy, people don't think about dynamic stability.
helianimal 1 year ago
The gimbal design probably works and the whole thing does stabilize your footy but I think there's still work required on the weighing tweaking part. It still *wobbles* from side to side a lot. I think you need to practice more. But good job anyway!
dangtienanh 1 year ago
Very good idea! Congratulation! I'm Orlando José. I live in Brazil!
orlandojosemachado 1 year ago
cool design-----is that conduit metal or plastic ? you never said which in the video
sasktank 1 year ago
@sasktank it is PVC conduit.
joshdoube 1 year ago
@joshdoube polly vinal carbonite
TheLukepetty 1 year ago
@sasktank electrical NMT schedule 40, super cheap and very common at any home depot, just walk down the isle where you would find electrical parts,
in some cases i would look around for fittings there to make up for harder to find bits like the handle
MigamixFX 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@sasktank you can use ballbearings for the gimbals..
it's smooth.. isolates the unit well.. try to see miy design,
glidecam type.. thanks
DIYfilmaker 1 year ago
Josh, thanks for the great tutorial. It was probably the easiest one to build on Youtube. It works pretty well when perfectly balanced, and that's where the problem lies. DIY steadicams take a long time to fine tune. Merlin, on the other hand, has precise controls for balancing for all axis, but it costs $800.
After many frustrating hours of trying to balance the DIY version, I finally broke down and bought a used Merlin. You got me interested in the whole project, however. Thanks.
voelkerb 1 year ago
Josh, thanks for the great tutorial. It was probably the easiest one to build on Youtube. It works pretty well when perfectly balanced, and that's where the problem lies.
To get it perfect, it takes a long time to fine tune. Merlin, on the other hand, has precise control for balancing for all axis, but it costs $800.
After many frustrating hours of trying to balance the DIY version, I finally broke down and bought a used Merlin. You got me interested in the whole project, however. Thanks.
voelkerb 1 year ago
Nice tutorial and well explained! That gimbal was the part that was giving me grief, and your video was the clearest I have found thus far on what to use and where to get it. Thanks!
LorenScott69 1 year ago
I built a $12 version (you both have stabilizer and tripod) link is here ʎıp8ız/ɯoɔ˙ןɹnʎuıʇ//:dʇʇɥ (turn upside down to see link)
ChillToTheBones 1 year ago
very good! will go to the local DIY shop tomorrow to do this. Thanks so much!
jon625 1 year ago
The Merlin is very badly manufactured. There is a single screw that holds the body plate on to the first arm and it always comes loose, meaning that you always have trouble finding the perfect fulcrum. I have one. My Z1 is the heaviest you can use for it and the results are not great. Well, probably better if you had the Steadicam team with you to fix the problems. The Glide Cams look good but not seen one in practice. My advice is make your own. Also go get a Canon 5D -VivLaRevolution
TheCutClub 1 year ago
any updates on ur steadicam???
r0guerats 1 year ago
very nice macgyver style!
IndiaWhiskeyHotel 1 year ago
Ever think of using a different type of conduit clamps?
GaryASherman 1 year ago
It looks like it says Targus 50 inch. I can;t find it at any place near me (N. Cal.) but a quick search shows Radio Shack may have it!
Targus TG-50TR 50" Tripod
Model: TG-50TR | Catalog #: 16-264
$15.99
kmccall 1 year ago
I'm pretty sure the reason/reasons you are getting "wobble" is because you don't have the "Gimble" just above the complete rigs center of gravity.. did you set the drop time? it should be 2 seconds.. I'm betting you are bottom heavy.. that is where your "wobble" is coming from.. the weights are lagging behind the camera.. (CG will fix that) don't forget you may need to move the camera as well to get the CG right..
Yefatbastard 1 year ago
Thanks for the detailed video. Have you been able to eliminate the wobble? I built my own from your ideas, with a few minor changes, but the wobble is terrible on mine. I used a ball-joint instead of the gimble, which may be part of the problem, but that eliminated the need for the skateboard bearing and still gives me free motion. Not sure I like it though. Great simple design though, Thanks!
Kunk35 1 year ago
NIce vid
iKeithb 1 year ago
how much did it all cost?
and do you have a part # for the u joint?
kono993 1 year ago
Hey Josh, is that a SUNPAK tripod? If not whats the brand and where did u buy it from. Thanx
purp13 1 year ago
very cool...you should sell these things. The things you think are "Simple" are tough for others who have no skill at this trade :)
I'd be interested in buying.
rtkiiiprod 1 year ago
very good
see also:
Youtupe or Google Video
B5FMTjcF2Ng
or
KOSyOxP0FE4
or
oAYRvOst7LQ
or
T97353qAd5U
youwiko 1 year ago
Test Nr. 2
watch?v=B5FMTjcF2Ng
youwiko 1 year ago
wow man verry impressive, even without the weights exact! the only part that didn't look like the real merlin was at 6:02. Just need one of these that will work with my dvx:)
redtail5 1 year ago
0$ Steadicam from junk
see youtube
watch?v=B5FMTjcF2Ng
youwiko 1 year ago
A very informative video. I've watched a few other videos re: DIY steadicams and this one seems to be one of the more practical builds. It's a lighter weight and similar to the Merlin in its basic design. This may be my next project. Thanks for posting this video.
gphiproductions 1 year ago
Having a bit of a problem assembling U joint. Apparently there's a tool involved. How did you put the U joint together?
viclis11 1 year ago
To assemble the u-joint you just need a flathead screw driver. The best way to do it is secure one end in a vice(if you have one) then place one post of the center piece into a hole. With the flathead you will then push the other post down into the other hole. You may need a hammer to help you "tap" it in. Does this explanation help?
joshdoube 1 year ago
@joshdoube or try using a blow dryer, heat it a lil bit until the plastic is soft (not too soft), then viola. ;)
bstunt 1 year ago
@viclis11 Go to Google and search on "Traxxas universal joint FAQ". First link provides directions.
quadbravo 1 year ago
Two ways to deal with rotation: repack your bearring with a VERY thick bearing grease (this will creat smooth drag, but veary upon temps). Or string and cross two rubber bands from the mount along the ujoint to the handle.
mkell21 1 year ago
I think the reason its a little too wobbly is because the top is too heavy.
I would recommend removing the weights at the back of the camera and probably removing some at the front if it the back becomes to heavy or you could adjust the handle forward a little bit.
BTW: I have the same tripod so I'm gonna try this method :)
noojra 1 year ago
It's great dude, still a bit wobbly, I bet with a little more weight on the bottom or lower the weight on the bottom down more, should be awesome, also a little more drag on the gimbal, or a ball joint style gimbal with a rotational bearing inside it.
If you're really feeling plucky, maybe hit up an RC Shop and pick up a Gold-n-rod cable and attach it so you can make a rotation function too, one that you don't have to touch the actual assembly interrupting its balance.
WillowFox 1 year ago
Dude, awesome vid/idea!
leifthor415 1 year ago
Very nice...I would like to try this for a 5D MKII.
niswangermorgan 1 year ago
You said that after joining and assembling all the pieces, you wrap tape (medical tape) around the joint (pipe) to reduce the oscillation.
This is because you use several tubes and then makes the connection between the tubes.
What would happen if you use a entire piece to replace the tube U-shaped?
Maybe a metal. A metal bar flat U-shaped?
Have you tried this?
augustomkm 1 year ago
I only put tape on the U-joint of the "gimbal" to reduce the sway. The tape around the Traxxis U-joint dampens the excess sway when moving. Hope that clears things up.
joshdoube 1 year ago
Parts made in Taiwam !!!???
doong8888 2 years ago
haha cute baby!
jordankade1 2 years ago
If you want to reduce the diameter of the part like the UJ component in this video, and want it to be concentric, try sticking it at its full length in a drill chuck and spinning it and filing it at the same time. You can then cut it to length: Poor man's lathe.
dewexdewex 2 years ago
but i'd be afraid of fatgigue failure of the stressed brackets / heavy load of camera leading to failure and an expensive accident. I think this is a GREAT idea for smaller cameras but be warned before you buy a lot of washers etc and the tripod this is really too flimsy for heavier cameras. On that note if someone has found an effective way to stabilize a heavy ish slr (and not be afraid of the whole thing falling apart) could you hit me up? cheers
sammy646464 2 years ago
I think this is a really good idea BUT if u are trying to do this for a heavier slr camera such as a 7d its not realy sturdy enough. The tripod mount is too flimsy and the way the fittings don't really fit onto 1/2" pipe means you can either pare the pipe WAY back and try and get it on with the screw (inside the fitting the adjustment screw cuts into the I.D about 1/8"), or go with the suggested method of just squeezing it on...
sammy646464 2 years ago
pretty good except it seems to sway.
bestSVMS 2 years ago
wow awesome
apriswajaya 2 years ago
Same tripod I had...
Thatfatguyfrommars 2 years ago
Not bad but it could really use more mass and two handles
JonDeth 2 years ago
thanks, nice work
Galzorec 2 years ago
I think he meant the Walmart tripod. Or he's just trolling. Cool idea using the leftover tripod leg.
I'm trying to build my own version too, did you manage to perfectly center the Traxxas on the skateboard bearing? Mine is slightly offset since I dremeled it by hand.
ktpro 2 years ago
I used the female end of the traxxis with 8mm bolt. it cuts a decent thread and proved impossible to pull out by hand.
nztitirangi 2 years ago
very cool idea for making a cheap merlin! i actually have a merlin and i can tell you the swaying you're seeing is due to too much weight at the bottom. the test is to put your camera on, swing the bottom so that the camera is 90 degrees and then let go. it should take 1-2 seconds to drop back to the regular position. it should kinda float back into place. if it drops faster than that, there's too much weight at the bottom. once you get that right it won't swing so much. great job!
curiousthree 2 years ago
thanks...made one two...
i guess the balance was off....
your test worked!!!!!!!
thanks
mfs2 2 years ago
nice, maybe you should place some weight on both sides of steadicam to stabilize it's left/right movements
Yunneck 2 years ago
I was wondering what kind of tripod did you steal all of your parts from and where did you get the compression clamps for the weights?
ILLCTRBroadcasting 2 years ago
I "borrowed" the parts from a Targus tripod I purchased at Taget for $15. The clamps are just plastic conduit mounts purchased at Home Depot.
joshdoube 2 years ago
Love the BreakBeat!
adler723 2 years ago
i actually made this steadycam like a month back and it worked great for about a week but then i guess my camera is just a bit too heavy so everything kept going off balance until i finally got the right amount of weights...but then the tripod head broke right in the middle of a shoot..lol
i'm still working on some mods to make it fit my needs..but thanks!..great design
sk8ersick666 2 years ago
i ordered a hefty plate and base for mine - hopefully strong and rigid enough for 7D and short prime.
nztitirangi 2 years ago
have you had any luck? I was starting to think the overall size of the unit is just too small to balance something as heavy as the 7d, even with a short light prime like the 50mm 1.8. The main problem seems the camera is so side-heavy that a tiny movement throws it out of balance without a really heavy counterweight
p.s I stay out at west harbour most weekends when I get back to nz I'd love to come meet up in titirangi and see if you could get it to work!
sammy646464 2 years ago
Still waiting for parts from ebay, and yes bit worried about the weight distribution up top. Mostly concerned with the reliability of the connection between the handle/gimbel/base plate though - dont want my 7D to hit the dirt. I'm working in middle east now, waiting for John to sort out our mental tax system before consider coming back. For the life of me I cant work out how these merlins could ever work with DOF gear like HDSLR, researching follow focus options now. Good fun though eh!
nztitirangi 2 years ago
also something I found critical was try as hard as you can to keep the camera as low to the swivel point of the gimbal as possible, if your rig sits too high above the pivot point the moments created by the heavy camera (especially side to side) become a lot larger and extremely hard to balance dynamically, i.e they're alway falling over in one direction or another! Drove me nuts before I gave up
sammy646464 2 years ago
yeah I worked that one out already tanks. Bit worried about the side heavy issue - may be a show stopper for this lil guy although few vids around showing 5dm2 on merlin working ok so it must be possible.
nztitirangi 2 years ago
this is the best video I ever seen, you explane all.
THANKS A LOT!!!
malouni95 2 years ago
Agreed - great job and best diy option so far on tube and vimeo. wel done!
nztitirangi 2 years ago
this is the best one, the other ones look too complicated.
I am waiting for my GY-HM100 to be delivered and then I will do one like this
ilenses 2 years ago
Very well done tutorial, cute baby and great test shot.
poprocz 2 years ago 2
Thank you.
joshdoube 2 years ago
great music on your test shot!!!
MaghoxFr 2 years ago
hi,
i've noticed that you own a Canon HV30 camcorder and though my question has nothing to do with the steadicam construction, i would appreciate any answer.
Iam currently thinking on getting my first camcorder to shoot short films and there are two on my mind, both Canon: HF S100 (or S10) or the HV40. The latter has real native 24p but stores on tape.
Which one would you pick?
Btw, once i have the camera i'll make my own steadicam for sure so thnks for the vid, i checked WSCLATER, awesome too.
MaghoxFr 2 years ago
24p for sure... doesnt matter thats a tape... it will take a further time to copy movies from camcorder to pc and load up .. but the quaility si what you want and need .. (i think)..
Skoda120TDi 2 years ago
So Good Design ^.^
sky33free 2 years ago
Third question, in the top male part of the gimbal that fits into the tripod part, did you attach the male part some way, or is it loose and will come out as soon as you set the rig down??
MrKeithTownson 2 years ago
In the video it is in loose. I have since then wrapped tape around the male end, it stays in fairly well. I also wrapped tape (medical tape) around the U-joint itself. That has reduced a lot of the smaller sway that it hard to balance out with weights. Good luck.
Josh
joshdoube 2 years ago
I would of suggested using surgical tubing or rubber bands around the joint as a more permanent fix. Nice work, smart way to save a couple hundred dollars!!
TSTds 2 years ago
Josh, great idea. I'm trying one myself. two questions, first did you try and put any weights on the inside of the tube, like steel stot or something to stabize it? Second have you tryed making any type of vehicle mount for it, like for a mountain bike or car?
MrKeithTownson 2 years ago
I did try a lot with the weights, I tried putting some on the sides and every way you can imagine. The way I have it now is no weight on the top and additional weight on the bottom. Side weights seem to increase sway. Your best bet is forward and bottom weights inline with the camera.
joshdoube 2 years ago
Thanks Josh. I made some changes to how the gimbal assembly mounts (same way as yours), but now I can't balance it at all! I think I'll need to increase the vertical length of the assembly. My camera is 3 lbs with the big zoom on it. Difficult to balance, to put it mildly.
trinkosol 2 years ago
Yeah 3lbs. is pretty heavy. You would really need a lot of weight on the bottom, more than a bolt full of washers would provide. I'm thinking maybe if you bought a T joint for the bottom part of the tubing and added two bolts full of washers...just thinking you need more weight on the bottom.
joshdoube 2 years ago
I think I have that same tripod. 50" targus from targert?
No way in heck I can get that fitting on the 1/2 inch conduit I have. At least not without really forcing it how did you get it on there? Brute force? Shaving down the outer diameter?
trinkosol 2 years ago
It'll fit. You need a flathead screwdriver to pry it open and just work it in. Once it's on you won't need glue or any screws.
joshdoube 2 years ago
Heh, thanks. What I ended up doing was reducing the OD of the pipe at the ends and slipping it on :-). Worked like a charm.
I've never used one of these before, but, I am finding it difficult to get the camera to point where I want it to. i.e., I'll be moving in one direction, and then if I turn, the lens is still pointing in the same direction it originally was.
trinkosol 2 years ago
It does take some practice. I'm still learning. I would suggest using your thumb to move the camera the direction you want. A little pressure goes a long way.
joshdoube 2 years ago
Hey! I have that tripod! But mine broke. :(
sonicballer8888 2 years ago
Woah! When You were moving the gimbal around, it looked like the camera was floating!
0:14 - 0:16
sonicballer8888 2 years ago
great job congrats!!
pigsote 2 years ago