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  • where did you buy your kit and how much was it? only place I can find them is Ebay and they go from $70 up

  • @Vacmasterthegreat I bought mine direct from AutoLoc. $70 is actually a good price as long as it is a quality kit. Some of the eBay kits are VERY poor, some are almost exactly what you get in the AutoLoc kit. It stands to reason that AutoLoc eitehr sells to a bunch of other people, or buys from a supplier that also sells to others. The AutoLoc kit is more than $70 for sure though, but at least there's no risk of ending up with junk.

  • Hey I have few questions. Is the universal power windows kit are good quality? Will it work when its -20 C outside? What about the motor it self? Does it brake often? Thank you

  • @davidk1625 A quality kit should be as good as OEM. AutoLoc advertises theirs as using "OEM quality motors" and they do seem to be high quality. As long as it doesn't freeze with ice, temperature should be no issue. Since the actuators are mounted between the door and inside, they shouldn't be prone to freezing though of course the window mechanism still could. Reliability will likely come to down how much of a quality install is done.

  • @aaroncake Well thank you very much for your information. I will install it next week, I hope everything will go well.

  • thanks soo much for all the help i got them working and its very nice

  • like it has a socket in the switch then connects to motor then just two wires left for power . something like spur it in the socket then connect wire to motor than power... 2

  • hi , another question...

    so the wire form the motor goes to the switches and then from the switches to power. i still haven't gotten it . but tomorrow i will have it.... like do i have to cut the wire and connect it to the switches .. or is it something like this > the switch connects to the motor then to the other motor then the switch goes to power .. like it has the connections already don't just put the motor on and the switch and then power I'm just trying to get it installed easier . 1

  • @appleipad123 If you are buying a kit, it will include a full wiring harness and instructions. You just connect the harness as per the instructions. It may be worth Googling the kit you bought to become familiar with the wiring before you attempt to install it.

  • I want this video on my VK4100 phone.

  • how long is this like about a foot I'm tALKIG ABOUT THE ACTUATOR THIS IS HOW MY DOOR PANEL LOOKS LIKE I DONT WANNA CUT I HAVE NO TOOLS LIKE THAT. THIS IS MY DOOR PANEL , 98 ESCORT > GO TO EBAY AND SEARCH FORD ESCORT DOOR PANEL IT WONT LET ME USE THE LINK .. THX HELP WOULD BE APPRC

  • @appleipad123 The actuator is about 18" long, and pretty flexible so it should fit on most door panels without cutting. I only made a cut for a more OEM like installation and so my inner door trim panels would sit flat without too much work. In most vehicles they should have enough adjustment to fit without making cuts.

  • where do you get power from can i do/  constant 12 volt then the other wire to ground

  • @appleipad123 Pull your power from a fused constant 12V source. Your windows will then operate whether the car is on or off. If you are adding a number of other electrical items, install an aux fuse panel connected directly to the battery (fused or with a breaker). Then the other side of your window harness goes to ground.

  • Awesome video man! I'm going to be doing this on my sedan soon, you make it looks easy!

  • so helpful

  • i plan on doing this to my fc very soon. power windows are so unappreciated these days. i like how your drill has headlights on it lol

  • @spectowin FCs are easy because all you need are the power window regulators from a model with power windows. They bolt right in. Then either use the factory switchgear or your own. And yes, my drill rocks.

  • This is a very good instalation vid thnx for making this!

    But i've got 1 more question, was the wiring to the switches and all hard to install? Or was it easy.

  • @Krikke000 I have not done the wiring yet but it will be easy. The AutoLoc kit comes with a full harness and a set of switches, as well as a wiring diagram. I'll be modifying mine a little but for most installations, no modifications should be needed.

  • why did u bother to fill in those with tin? once the cover goes over it no one is gonna see it.

  • @arklanbk A far more finished look, and to keep debris out of the actuator. It makes for a much more OEM style installation.

  • thank you for uploading this, great work btw, totally enjoyed it ... gonna work on a Mazda 626 1980' sedan.

  • Thank you for video )

  • So THAT'S what it looks like to use proper tools to get stuff done...

  • 30:15 lol

  • wait wtf bro, sup with the car? all that nice work for that piece of sh!t

  • @GeeksCreation The car is in the process of a full restoration. Traditionally, when restoring a car, one starts with one that requires a bit of work...

  • Monstrous hole.. my girlfriend -.-

  • anyone notice the lack of grinder guard ??

  • @pesomasagravedad Yep. I almost always have it removed for better access. About the only time I install it is when I'm grinding on a flat surface and thick metal. Notice also that I'm using a 5" grinding disc on a grinder designed for a 4" disc. :-D

  • @aaroncake I just grinded mine to fit a 4 1/2 inch disc.

  • BEST video about installing power windows!! Thanks!!

  • What is the tool you use to install the nutserts or rivnuts?

  • @yerboogieman Um, it's a rivnut tool. There are a number of different types. The little one I use is basically a collar that is held steady with a wrench and presses against the rivnut flange while the bolt is tightened to compress the rivnut. There are also tools available that look like a pop-rivet tool. A Google for "rivnut tool" will turn up a bunch of them. You can even make your own with a few nuts and washers.

  • People like you must be rewarded.... Very nice video, nice instructions and nice quality..Thmubs up///////

  • @harindam Thank you! People watching is reward enough actually. Oh, also there are Google ads. ;-)

  • how do the switches work to reverse the poles for the up and down motion?

  • @idusclothing Picture a DPDT switch with contacts on the bottom like a 6 dice. Middle two are the fixed contacts which go to the window motor. Connect top right outer pin to lower left outer pin, then same for top left to bottom right (like an X). Connect 12V and ground to either the two bottom or two top pins. You've now configured a DPDT switch to reverse polarity on the motor. :-) Gets a bit more complicated with two switches per motor like OEMs do. FYI, Autoloc kit includes full wiring.

  • I did just that at Lowes and got a bunch of coooool reactions but no one who had seen them. finally found a place tho. ended up getting well nuts that replace the rubber gromets and hardware and look like they will work great too.

  • sorry I did think u said rivnuts in the video but since every store I have gone to has never heard of them I thought I had it wrong. I have been to like 5 fastener stores lol

  • @mike240se Ask them for "nutserts". Or, show them this video on your phone. :-)

  • thanks. what are those rivet looking nuts w/ threads called? they didn't know what I was talking about at Lowes or auto zone lol.

  • @mike240se As mentioned in the video, they are "rivnuts" or "nutserts". Probably not available in most automotive stores, but you can find them as well as the installation tool at the local fastener store.

  • btw how bad to not put in the extra brace u made if i cut the door ? i cant weld at lall.

  • @mike240se Not a huge deal. I put it in just for a more finished look and to keep junk from splashing from inside the door onto the actuator cables.

  • this helped me a ton. going to be installing these in a dodge ram 1500 this week. also picked up locking kit.

  • Great video....you inspired me to try this installation on my truck..

  • "If theres anything people hate, its a monstrous hole" Haha thats what he said..

  • LOL - "what do you have against billy mays?"

  • what did you say you used instead of self-tapping screws? Riv-nuts? Where can I buy  these thingies?

  • @FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR They are referred to as "Nutserts", "Rivnuts" or a few other names. Basically they are a rivet with threads in the middle. Most good fastener stores will sell them along with the tool needed to install. Or you can make your own tool with a bolt, a nut you've drilled the threads out of, and a few washers.

  • @aaroncake Thank you! I love to work on my truck - it's becoming apparent - I thought I was just "fixing" things, but now it's like I can't stop. As SOON as something breaks, I take every minute of free time fixing it.

    I want these on my windows, but my 1983 Nissan 720 has gone through 3 sets of gears so far. This is a common 720 problem, but I think I've fixed it good this last time. Maybe I'll do a video on how to fix the window gears some day.

    Thanks again!

  • @FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR Take a look at AutoLoc's website, because they may offer some universal window regulators that may fit your truck and replace the factory regulators. Most truck doors are flat so you might be able to use hotrod style regulators. Then you won't have to deal with replacing the gears so often. :-)

  • @aaroncake Thanks for the info. I don't actually have power windows right now. I power them up by hand. I wanted to get the universal kit, until my pocketbook said, "WOAH - $200 EACH!!!?"

    I'm really not fond of plastic gears either, since plastic breaks down faster than metal in most cases. I thought they made the gears out of plastic to make them plyable, but there's a spring for that!

    So, I'm trying to use different methods, like make my own kit if I can figure out how to make the gears.

  • @FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR Yeah, they are kind of expensive, but AutoLoc isn't kidding when they say "OEM quality". The actuators are very powerful and seem quite well made. Keep in mind that the 2 door kit comes with two regulators, a bunch of hardware and all the wiring for $210(on AutoLoc's website). If you subscribe to their news letter, they send discount codes all the time as well. Maybe there is a Nissan OEM regulator you can use that will fit?

  • @aaroncake so the kit comes with two systems, for TWO doors? I was under the understanding that it was just one. That might be worth the expense.

    Most of the time, when I do it myself, it comes out almost as nice as the pro kit, and needs adjusting later.

  • @FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR There are two actuators per kit, or if you get the full on regulators, there are two per kit as well. So it's not too bad. I wasn't really impressed much with the wiring harness but it is workable and no worse than most aftermarket products. The switches are pretty cheesy though so you'll want to use something else. Since my switches will be covered up I don't mind. As I'm sure you know, window regulators require a lot of adjustment to work smoothly. :-)

  • do you know that you really dont need to cut the door at all? that's why the unit is so flat and it will sink into the door panel, uh, old people, they always cut things for nothing.

  • @kalargyi If I didn't notch the door, the actuator cable run would have sat 1/4" above the level of the sheet metal. The result would have been that the door panel would not fit flat. As I installed it, no component of the actuator is above the level of the sheet metal so the panel still fits flat. It's the little details that make the end product go together so much better.

  • Hopefully going to attempt it with my car, although looks a bit daunting with all the modifications you need to make

  • Great vid, thanks!

  • What are those things you put in holes you drilled? I mean this metal rings you strew in with spanner and a power-drill.

  • @PoProstuKarol They are called "rivnuts" or "nut serts". Basically, they are a rivet style insert with threads. A hole gets drilled, the rivnut inserted, then the tool compresses it against the panel, locking it in place. A very convenient way to add a threaded hole where needed without having to weld in nuts or bungs.

  • i have a Pontiac Firebird couple. It doesn't have power windows, do you think it's possible to install power windows to it? 

  • @StanleyMarcelin It's going to be possible, for sure. There may even be a bolt in kit (by AutoLoc or other manufacturers) depending on the year. Universal actuators like the ones in this video could always be made to fit but if there is a bolt in set available, go that route. Or, maybe power windows were an option for you year (or a similar year) and you could use OEM window regulators? They may bolt right in or bolt in with minor mods.

  • Excelente video !!!

  • "what do you have against Billy Mays?"..... "everything".  haha, classic

  • awesome work on the vids man perfect will be waiting for part 12

  • Pathetic......just soooo pathetic. Dontate that thing to Kars for Kids and take the tax write off.

  • i like how the dremel was still on after cutting the bracket. LOL then you turned it off after removing the cut part. hahaha BOSS!

  • OHH awesome man! I just saw all you episodes and was fascinated... :O

    It's really good... I will be wacthing your progress...

    Keep it...I will be waiting...

  • I was gonna complain about the eye protection, but after you botched that weld, I suppose you knew better the first time.

    Also...laser? Hey man, go straight for the CNC!

    If your video counts start going way up, blame my 2-year old. He found your videos in my iPhone's history and is now watching them like crazy. He will watch the exact same video for Sonic the Hedgehog for an hour straight, so...

  • @smacksaw The funny thing is, there are a load of cheap imported mills on sale in places like Princess Auto and Harbor Freight. And there are inexpensive CNC kits available online. It would only cost about $800 plus the purchase of the mill to have a small CNC mill these days. I think you should worry more about your iPhone data plan! ;-)

  • I'm a fan of the longer episode size. Looking good!

  • @DocLondom Good to know. But I'm going to still try and keep each one at around the 15 minute level. I think that's the ideal size.

  • Dang it cakes your such a tease :P

  • You tacked the channel pieces in place without eye protection. That's 2 not-so-safe things in one video lol

  • @tsherwoodrzero True enough. Notice though that I closed my eyes. It's not proper, but quite often the easiest and quickest thing to do for small tacks.

  • I SMELL A 13B :D

  • @sh3lbot Does that smell any different than a 12A?

  • @aaroncake Just got back from my garage. They both smell the same :)  Love your work bud keep it up!

  • Long video, but very intresting project

  • That little rivet too is amazing, i love how it works.

    I really enjoy watching your videos they are really entertaining to watch and it's great to see how cars are built/restored from top to bottom.

    Keep up the great progress i can't wait for the next installment =)

  • Do you happen to know where you got that rivnut tool?? All of the ones I've found are crazy complicated or the regular rivet gun style. Yours is very simple an effective. If you recall where you got it I'd love to know....

  • @dirtymoe77 I purchased it from my local fastener store. They had it in stock. It is basically just a strong bolt, with a bushing that fits around it. You can probably rig something similar up with any old bolt of the correct size and then a matching bushing. Or get a nut and then drill the threads out. Put a washer between the bolt head and nut. I've installed a few that way and it works fine, but takes a little practice.

  • Thanks guy, I actually found one online like it. Took a bit of looking around but thank you!

  • loved watching it, wonder whats in the plastic bag ... hmmm.... didnt know it was so interesting to see how someone putting stuff into a door lol

  • You didn't paint the holes from rusting

  • @fppgames Which holes?

  • @aaroncake those you drilled out, but since you screwed those... thing in them it's probably not an issue.

  • @fppgames Ah, good catch! Looks like I forgot. I'll have to go back with seam sealer and make the area weather tight.

  • I don't mind the long video at all. Great work and amazing attention to detail as usual!

  • @1SWEETRX7 Thank you! I was worried people would find it too long. I'm going to try and keep things at the 15 minute level. Though the next one will be long as well. It turned out to be a bit more work than I thought to make the power window actuators fit nicely, but was worth it in the end. Now the interior door panels will sit flat.

  • AAron instead of using a Metal hammer you should use a Body hammer for Hammering Plastics. The Metal Hammer could Damage the Plastic the your screwed.

  • @darkblaze176 Yeah, I didn't have a plastic hammer so I just reached for the machinist's hammer. I used a lot of very light blows as to not avoid the plastic, but to anyone else I would certainly recommend using a plastic or rubber hammer. Or place a block of wood between the hammer and plastic.

  • NEXT PART <3

  • Cannot wait until the next part, here's hopeing it isnt in like two months :P

  • @Sneddz1 It won't be. I have all the footage now, I just need to start editing it. Since it is rather linear, it should be an easy edit. Though it is a busy time of the year for me (auto shows) I would hope that it will be posted in early March.

  • More Kraftwerk!

  • thats what she said!

  • im always learning something with your videos, keep up the good work!

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