@Vacmasterthegreat I bought mine direct from AutoLoc. $70 is actually a good price as long as it is a quality kit. Some of the eBay kits are VERY poor, some are almost exactly what you get in the AutoLoc kit. It stands to reason that AutoLoc eitehr sells to a bunch of other people, or buys from a supplier that also sells to others. The AutoLoc kit is more than $70 for sure though, but at least there's no risk of ending up with junk.
Hey I have few questions. Is the universal power windows kit are good quality? Will it work when its -20 C outside? What about the motor it self? Does it brake often? Thank you
@davidk1625 A quality kit should be as good as OEM. AutoLoc advertises theirs as using "OEM quality motors" and they do seem to be high quality. As long as it doesn't freeze with ice, temperature should be no issue. Since the actuators are mounted between the door and inside, they shouldn't be prone to freezing though of course the window mechanism still could. Reliability will likely come to down how much of a quality install is done.
like it has a socket in the switch then connects to motor then just two wires left for power . something like spur it in the socket then connect wire to motor than power... 2
so the wire form the motor goes to the switches and then from the switches to power. i still haven't gotten it . but tomorrow i will have it.... like do i have to cut the wire and connect it to the switches .. or is it something like this > the switch connects to the motor then to the other motor then the switch goes to power .. like it has the connections already don't just put the motor on and the switch and then power I'm just trying to get it installed easier . 1
@appleipad123 If you are buying a kit, it will include a full wiring harness and instructions. You just connect the harness as per the instructions. It may be worth Googling the kit you bought to become familiar with the wiring before you attempt to install it.
how long is this like about a foot I'm tALKIG ABOUT THE ACTUATOR THIS IS HOW MY DOOR PANEL LOOKS LIKE I DONT WANNA CUT I HAVE NO TOOLS LIKE THAT. THIS IS MY DOOR PANEL , 98 ESCORT > GO TO EBAY AND SEARCH FORD ESCORT DOOR PANEL IT WONT LET ME USE THE LINK .. THX HELP WOULD BE APPRC
@appleipad123 The actuator is about 18" long, and pretty flexible so it should fit on most door panels without cutting. I only made a cut for a more OEM like installation and so my inner door trim panels would sit flat without too much work. In most vehicles they should have enough adjustment to fit without making cuts.
@appleipad123 Pull your power from a fused constant 12V source. Your windows will then operate whether the car is on or off. If you are adding a number of other electrical items, install an aux fuse panel connected directly to the battery (fused or with a breaker). Then the other side of your window harness goes to ground.
@spectowin FCs are easy because all you need are the power window regulators from a model with power windows. They bolt right in. Then either use the factory switchgear or your own. And yes, my drill rocks.
@Krikke000 I have not done the wiring yet but it will be easy. The AutoLoc kit comes with a full harness and a set of switches, as well as a wiring diagram. I'll be modifying mine a little but for most installations, no modifications should be needed.
@GeeksCreation The car is in the process of a full restoration. Traditionally, when restoring a car, one starts with one that requires a bit of work...
@pesomasagravedad Yep. I almost always have it removed for better access. About the only time I install it is when I'm grinding on a flat surface and thick metal. Notice also that I'm using a 5" grinding disc on a grinder designed for a 4" disc. :-D
@yerboogieman Um, it's a rivnut tool. There are a number of different types. The little one I use is basically a collar that is held steady with a wrench and presses against the rivnut flange while the bolt is tightened to compress the rivnut. There are also tools available that look like a pop-rivet tool. A Google for "rivnut tool" will turn up a bunch of them. You can even make your own with a few nuts and washers.
@idusclothing Picture a DPDT switch with contacts on the bottom like a 6 dice. Middle two are the fixed contacts which go to the window motor. Connect top right outer pin to lower left outer pin, then same for top left to bottom right (like an X). Connect 12V and ground to either the two bottom or two top pins. You've now configured a DPDT switch to reverse polarity on the motor. :-) Gets a bit more complicated with two switches per motor like OEMs do. FYI, Autoloc kit includes full wiring.
I did just that at Lowes and got a bunch of coooool reactions but no one who had seen them. finally found a place tho. ended up getting well nuts that replace the rubber gromets and hardware and look like they will work great too.
sorry I did think u said rivnuts in the video but since every store I have gone to has never heard of them I thought I had it wrong. I have been to like 5 fastener stores lol
@mike240se As mentioned in the video, they are "rivnuts" or "nutserts". Probably not available in most automotive stores, but you can find them as well as the installation tool at the local fastener store.
@FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR They are referred to as "Nutserts", "Rivnuts" or a few other names. Basically they are a rivet with threads in the middle. Most good fastener stores will sell them along with the tool needed to install. Or you can make your own tool with a bolt, a nut you've drilled the threads out of, and a few washers.
@aaroncake Thank you! I love to work on my truck - it's becoming apparent - I thought I was just "fixing" things, but now it's like I can't stop. As SOON as something breaks, I take every minute of free time fixing it.
I want these on my windows, but my 1983 Nissan 720 has gone through 3 sets of gears so far. This is a common 720 problem, but I think I've fixed it good this last time. Maybe I'll do a video on how to fix the window gears some day.
@FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR Take a look at AutoLoc's website, because they may offer some universal window regulators that may fit your truck and replace the factory regulators. Most truck doors are flat so you might be able to use hotrod style regulators. Then you won't have to deal with replacing the gears so often. :-)
@aaroncake Thanks for the info. I don't actually have power windows right now. I power them up by hand. I wanted to get the universal kit, until my pocketbook said, "WOAH - $200 EACH!!!?"
I'm really not fond of plastic gears either, since plastic breaks down faster than metal in most cases. I thought they made the gears out of plastic to make them plyable, but there's a spring for that!
So, I'm trying to use different methods, like make my own kit if I can figure out how to make the gears.
@FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR Yeah, they are kind of expensive, but AutoLoc isn't kidding when they say "OEM quality". The actuators are very powerful and seem quite well made. Keep in mind that the 2 door kit comes with two regulators, a bunch of hardware and all the wiring for $210(on AutoLoc's website). If you subscribe to their news letter, they send discount codes all the time as well. Maybe there is a Nissan OEM regulator you can use that will fit?
@FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR There are two actuators per kit, or if you get the full on regulators, there are two per kit as well. So it's not too bad. I wasn't really impressed much with the wiring harness but it is workable and no worse than most aftermarket products. The switches are pretty cheesy though so you'll want to use something else. Since my switches will be covered up I don't mind. As I'm sure you know, window regulators require a lot of adjustment to work smoothly. :-)
do you know that you really dont need to cut the door at all? that's why the unit is so flat and it will sink into the door panel, uh, old people, they always cut things for nothing.
@kalargyi If I didn't notch the door, the actuator cable run would have sat 1/4" above the level of the sheet metal. The result would have been that the door panel would not fit flat. As I installed it, no component of the actuator is above the level of the sheet metal so the panel still fits flat. It's the little details that make the end product go together so much better.
@PoProstuKarol They are called "rivnuts" or "nut serts". Basically, they are a rivet style insert with threads. A hole gets drilled, the rivnut inserted, then the tool compresses it against the panel, locking it in place. A very convenient way to add a threaded hole where needed without having to weld in nuts or bungs.
@StanleyMarcelin It's going to be possible, for sure. There may even be a bolt in kit (by AutoLoc or other manufacturers) depending on the year. Universal actuators like the ones in this video could always be made to fit but if there is a bolt in set available, go that route. Or, maybe power windows were an option for you year (or a similar year) and you could use OEM window regulators? They may bolt right in or bolt in with minor mods.
I was gonna complain about the eye protection, but after you botched that weld, I suppose you knew better the first time.
Also...laser? Hey man, go straight for the CNC!
If your video counts start going way up, blame my 2-year old. He found your videos in my iPhone's history and is now watching them like crazy. He will watch the exact same video for Sonic the Hedgehog for an hour straight, so...
@smacksaw The funny thing is, there are a load of cheap imported mills on sale in places like Princess Auto and Harbor Freight. And there are inexpensive CNC kits available online. It would only cost about $800 plus the purchase of the mill to have a small CNC mill these days. I think you should worry more about your iPhone data plan! ;-)
@tsherwoodrzero True enough. Notice though that I closed my eyes. It's not proper, but quite often the easiest and quickest thing to do for small tacks.
Do you happen to know where you got that rivnut tool?? All of the ones I've found are crazy complicated or the regular rivet gun style. Yours is very simple an effective. If you recall where you got it I'd love to know....
@dirtymoe77 I purchased it from my local fastener store. They had it in stock. It is basically just a strong bolt, with a bushing that fits around it. You can probably rig something similar up with any old bolt of the correct size and then a matching bushing. Or get a nut and then drill the threads out. Put a washer between the bolt head and nut. I've installed a few that way and it works fine, but takes a little practice.
@1SWEETRX7 Thank you! I was worried people would find it too long. I'm going to try and keep things at the 15 minute level. Though the next one will be long as well. It turned out to be a bit more work than I thought to make the power window actuators fit nicely, but was worth it in the end. Now the interior door panels will sit flat.
AAron instead of using a Metal hammer you should use a Body hammer for Hammering Plastics. The Metal Hammer could Damage the Plastic the your screwed.
@darkblaze176 Yeah, I didn't have a plastic hammer so I just reached for the machinist's hammer. I used a lot of very light blows as to not avoid the plastic, but to anyone else I would certainly recommend using a plastic or rubber hammer. Or place a block of wood between the hammer and plastic.
@Sneddz1 It won't be. I have all the footage now, I just need to start editing it. Since it is rather linear, it should be an easy edit. Though it is a busy time of the year for me (auto shows) I would hope that it will be posted in early March.
where did you buy your kit and how much was it? only place I can find them is Ebay and they go from $70 up
Vacmasterthegreat 1 day ago
@Vacmasterthegreat I bought mine direct from AutoLoc. $70 is actually a good price as long as it is a quality kit. Some of the eBay kits are VERY poor, some are almost exactly what you get in the AutoLoc kit. It stands to reason that AutoLoc eitehr sells to a bunch of other people, or buys from a supplier that also sells to others. The AutoLoc kit is more than $70 for sure though, but at least there's no risk of ending up with junk.
aaroncake 18 hours ago
Hey I have few questions. Is the universal power windows kit are good quality? Will it work when its -20 C outside? What about the motor it self? Does it brake often? Thank you
davidk1625 2 weeks ago
@davidk1625 A quality kit should be as good as OEM. AutoLoc advertises theirs as using "OEM quality motors" and they do seem to be high quality. As long as it doesn't freeze with ice, temperature should be no issue. Since the actuators are mounted between the door and inside, they shouldn't be prone to freezing though of course the window mechanism still could. Reliability will likely come to down how much of a quality install is done.
aaroncake 2 weeks ago
@aaroncake Well thank you very much for your information. I will install it next week, I hope everything will go well.
davidk1625 2 weeks ago
thanks soo much for all the help i got them working and its very nice
appleipad123 1 month ago
like it has a socket in the switch then connects to motor then just two wires left for power . something like spur it in the socket then connect wire to motor than power... 2
appleipad123 1 month ago
hi , another question...
so the wire form the motor goes to the switches and then from the switches to power. i still haven't gotten it . but tomorrow i will have it.... like do i have to cut the wire and connect it to the switches .. or is it something like this > the switch connects to the motor then to the other motor then the switch goes to power .. like it has the connections already don't just put the motor on and the switch and then power I'm just trying to get it installed easier . 1
appleipad123 1 month ago
@appleipad123 If you are buying a kit, it will include a full wiring harness and instructions. You just connect the harness as per the instructions. It may be worth Googling the kit you bought to become familiar with the wiring before you attempt to install it.
aaroncake 1 month ago
I want this video on my VK4100 phone.
acharylee77z 1 month ago
how long is this like about a foot I'm tALKIG ABOUT THE ACTUATOR THIS IS HOW MY DOOR PANEL LOOKS LIKE I DONT WANNA CUT I HAVE NO TOOLS LIKE THAT. THIS IS MY DOOR PANEL , 98 ESCORT > GO TO EBAY AND SEARCH FORD ESCORT DOOR PANEL IT WONT LET ME USE THE LINK .. THX HELP WOULD BE APPRC
appleipad123 1 month ago
@appleipad123 The actuator is about 18" long, and pretty flexible so it should fit on most door panels without cutting. I only made a cut for a more OEM like installation and so my inner door trim panels would sit flat without too much work. In most vehicles they should have enough adjustment to fit without making cuts.
aaroncake 1 month ago
where do you get power from can i do/ constant 12 volt then the other wire to ground
appleipad123 1 month ago
@appleipad123 Pull your power from a fused constant 12V source. Your windows will then operate whether the car is on or off. If you are adding a number of other electrical items, install an aux fuse panel connected directly to the battery (fused or with a breaker). Then the other side of your window harness goes to ground.
aaroncake 1 month ago
Awesome video man! I'm going to be doing this on my sedan soon, you make it looks easy!
bigblockvista 1 month ago
so helpful
appleipad123 1 month ago
i plan on doing this to my fc very soon. power windows are so unappreciated these days. i like how your drill has headlights on it lol
spectowin 1 month ago
@spectowin FCs are easy because all you need are the power window regulators from a model with power windows. They bolt right in. Then either use the factory switchgear or your own. And yes, my drill rocks.
aaroncake 1 month ago
This is a very good instalation vid thnx for making this!
But i've got 1 more question, was the wiring to the switches and all hard to install? Or was it easy.
Krikke000 3 months ago
@Krikke000 I have not done the wiring yet but it will be easy. The AutoLoc kit comes with a full harness and a set of switches, as well as a wiring diagram. I'll be modifying mine a little but for most installations, no modifications should be needed.
aaroncake 3 months ago
why did u bother to fill in those with tin? once the cover goes over it no one is gonna see it.
arklanbk 3 months ago
@arklanbk A far more finished look, and to keep debris out of the actuator. It makes for a much more OEM style installation.
aaroncake 3 months ago
thank you for uploading this, great work btw, totally enjoyed it ... gonna work on a Mazda 626 1980' sedan.
taradathm 3 months ago
Thank you for video )
KAIDGERZ 3 months ago
So THAT'S what it looks like to use proper tools to get stuff done...
richgilb 3 months ago
30:15 lol
brownbassplayer 4 months ago
wait wtf bro, sup with the car? all that nice work for that piece of sh!t
GeeksCreation 4 months ago
@GeeksCreation The car is in the process of a full restoration. Traditionally, when restoring a car, one starts with one that requires a bit of work...
aaroncake 4 months ago
Monstrous hole.. my girlfriend -.-
GeeksCreation 4 months ago
anyone notice the lack of grinder guard ??
pesomasagravedad 4 months ago in playlist More videos from aaroncake
@pesomasagravedad Yep. I almost always have it removed for better access. About the only time I install it is when I'm grinding on a flat surface and thick metal. Notice also that I'm using a 5" grinding disc on a grinder designed for a 4" disc. :-D
aaroncake 4 months ago
@aaroncake I just grinded mine to fit a 4 1/2 inch disc.
yerboogieman 4 months ago
BEST video about installing power windows!! Thanks!!
carking777 5 months ago
What is the tool you use to install the nutserts or rivnuts?
yerboogieman 5 months ago
@yerboogieman Um, it's a rivnut tool. There are a number of different types. The little one I use is basically a collar that is held steady with a wrench and presses against the rivnut flange while the bolt is tightened to compress the rivnut. There are also tools available that look like a pop-rivet tool. A Google for "rivnut tool" will turn up a bunch of them. You can even make your own with a few nuts and washers.
aaroncake 5 months ago
People like you must be rewarded.... Very nice video, nice instructions and nice quality..Thmubs up///////
harindam 5 months ago
@harindam Thank you! People watching is reward enough actually. Oh, also there are Google ads. ;-)
aaroncake 5 months ago
how do the switches work to reverse the poles for the up and down motion?
idusclothing 6 months ago
@idusclothing Picture a DPDT switch with contacts on the bottom like a 6 dice. Middle two are the fixed contacts which go to the window motor. Connect top right outer pin to lower left outer pin, then same for top left to bottom right (like an X). Connect 12V and ground to either the two bottom or two top pins. You've now configured a DPDT switch to reverse polarity on the motor. :-) Gets a bit more complicated with two switches per motor like OEMs do. FYI, Autoloc kit includes full wiring.
aaroncake 6 months ago
I did just that at Lowes and got a bunch of coooool reactions but no one who had seen them. finally found a place tho. ended up getting well nuts that replace the rubber gromets and hardware and look like they will work great too.
mike240se 6 months ago
sorry I did think u said rivnuts in the video but since every store I have gone to has never heard of them I thought I had it wrong. I have been to like 5 fastener stores lol
mike240se 6 months ago
@mike240se Ask them for "nutserts". Or, show them this video on your phone. :-)
aaroncake 6 months ago
thanks. what are those rivet looking nuts w/ threads called? they didn't know what I was talking about at Lowes or auto zone lol.
mike240se 6 months ago
@mike240se As mentioned in the video, they are "rivnuts" or "nutserts". Probably not available in most automotive stores, but you can find them as well as the installation tool at the local fastener store.
aaroncake 6 months ago
btw how bad to not put in the extra brace u made if i cut the door ? i cant weld at lall.
mike240se 7 months ago
@mike240se Not a huge deal. I put it in just for a more finished look and to keep junk from splashing from inside the door onto the actuator cables.
aaroncake 7 months ago
this helped me a ton. going to be installing these in a dodge ram 1500 this week. also picked up locking kit.
mike240se 7 months ago
Great video....you inspired me to try this installation on my truck..
SJFijianRick 7 months ago
"If theres anything people hate, its a monstrous hole" Haha thats what he said..
DAIN542 7 months ago
LOL - "what do you have against billy mays?"
FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR 8 months ago
what did you say you used instead of self-tapping screws? Riv-nuts? Where can I buy these thingies?
FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR 8 months ago
@FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR They are referred to as "Nutserts", "Rivnuts" or a few other names. Basically they are a rivet with threads in the middle. Most good fastener stores will sell them along with the tool needed to install. Or you can make your own tool with a bolt, a nut you've drilled the threads out of, and a few washers.
aaroncake 7 months ago
@aaroncake Thank you! I love to work on my truck - it's becoming apparent - I thought I was just "fixing" things, but now it's like I can't stop. As SOON as something breaks, I take every minute of free time fixing it.
I want these on my windows, but my 1983 Nissan 720 has gone through 3 sets of gears so far. This is a common 720 problem, but I think I've fixed it good this last time. Maybe I'll do a video on how to fix the window gears some day.
Thanks again!
FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR 7 months ago
@FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR Take a look at AutoLoc's website, because they may offer some universal window regulators that may fit your truck and replace the factory regulators. Most truck doors are flat so you might be able to use hotrod style regulators. Then you won't have to deal with replacing the gears so often. :-)
aaroncake 7 months ago
@aaroncake Thanks for the info. I don't actually have power windows right now. I power them up by hand. I wanted to get the universal kit, until my pocketbook said, "WOAH - $200 EACH!!!?"
I'm really not fond of plastic gears either, since plastic breaks down faster than metal in most cases. I thought they made the gears out of plastic to make them plyable, but there's a spring for that!
So, I'm trying to use different methods, like make my own kit if I can figure out how to make the gears.
FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR 7 months ago
@FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR Yeah, they are kind of expensive, but AutoLoc isn't kidding when they say "OEM quality". The actuators are very powerful and seem quite well made. Keep in mind that the 2 door kit comes with two regulators, a bunch of hardware and all the wiring for $210(on AutoLoc's website). If you subscribe to their news letter, they send discount codes all the time as well. Maybe there is a Nissan OEM regulator you can use that will fit?
aaroncake 7 months ago
@aaroncake so the kit comes with two systems, for TWO doors? I was under the understanding that it was just one. That might be worth the expense.
Most of the time, when I do it myself, it comes out almost as nice as the pro kit, and needs adjusting later.
FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR 7 months ago
@FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR There are two actuators per kit, or if you get the full on regulators, there are two per kit as well. So it's not too bad. I wasn't really impressed much with the wiring harness but it is workable and no worse than most aftermarket products. The switches are pretty cheesy though so you'll want to use something else. Since my switches will be covered up I don't mind. As I'm sure you know, window regulators require a lot of adjustment to work smoothly. :-)
aaroncake 7 months ago
do you know that you really dont need to cut the door at all? that's why the unit is so flat and it will sink into the door panel, uh, old people, they always cut things for nothing.
kalargyi 9 months ago
@kalargyi If I didn't notch the door, the actuator cable run would have sat 1/4" above the level of the sheet metal. The result would have been that the door panel would not fit flat. As I installed it, no component of the actuator is above the level of the sheet metal so the panel still fits flat. It's the little details that make the end product go together so much better.
aaroncake 9 months ago
Hopefully going to attempt it with my car, although looks a bit daunting with all the modifications you need to make
casper123 10 months ago
Great vid, thanks!
casper123 10 months ago
What are those things you put in holes you drilled? I mean this metal rings you strew in with spanner and a power-drill.
PoProstuKarol 10 months ago
@PoProstuKarol They are called "rivnuts" or "nut serts". Basically, they are a rivet style insert with threads. A hole gets drilled, the rivnut inserted, then the tool compresses it against the panel, locking it in place. A very convenient way to add a threaded hole where needed without having to weld in nuts or bungs.
aaroncake 10 months ago
i have a Pontiac Firebird couple. It doesn't have power windows, do you think it's possible to install power windows to it?
StanleyMarcelin 10 months ago
@StanleyMarcelin It's going to be possible, for sure. There may even be a bolt in kit (by AutoLoc or other manufacturers) depending on the year. Universal actuators like the ones in this video could always be made to fit but if there is a bolt in set available, go that route. Or, maybe power windows were an option for you year (or a similar year) and you could use OEM window regulators? They may bolt right in or bolt in with minor mods.
aaroncake 10 months ago
Excelente video !!!
parisiwilliams 10 months ago
"what do you have against Billy Mays?"..... "everything". haha, classic
mdobilas 11 months ago
awesome work on the vids man perfect will be waiting for part 12
Qwertyplum69er 1 year ago
Pathetic......just soooo pathetic. Dontate that thing to Kars for Kids and take the tax write off.
bstnguy9 1 year ago
i like how the dremel was still on after cutting the bracket. LOL then you turned it off after removing the cut part. hahaha BOSS!
kentdoNEthing 1 year ago
OHH awesome man! I just saw all you episodes and was fascinated... :O
It's really good... I will be wacthing your progress...
Keep it...I will be waiting...
jefa1234 1 year ago
I was gonna complain about the eye protection, but after you botched that weld, I suppose you knew better the first time.
Also...laser? Hey man, go straight for the CNC!
If your video counts start going way up, blame my 2-year old. He found your videos in my iPhone's history and is now watching them like crazy. He will watch the exact same video for Sonic the Hedgehog for an hour straight, so...
smacksaw 1 year ago
@smacksaw The funny thing is, there are a load of cheap imported mills on sale in places like Princess Auto and Harbor Freight. And there are inexpensive CNC kits available online. It would only cost about $800 plus the purchase of the mill to have a small CNC mill these days. I think you should worry more about your iPhone data plan! ;-)
aaroncake 1 year ago
I'm a fan of the longer episode size. Looking good!
DocLondom 1 year ago
@DocLondom Good to know. But I'm going to still try and keep each one at around the 15 minute level. I think that's the ideal size.
aaroncake 1 year ago
Dang it cakes your such a tease :P
Grappler130 1 year ago
You tacked the channel pieces in place without eye protection. That's 2 not-so-safe things in one video lol
tsherwoodrzero 1 year ago
@tsherwoodrzero True enough. Notice though that I closed my eyes. It's not proper, but quite often the easiest and quickest thing to do for small tacks.
aaroncake 1 year ago
I SMELL A 13B :D
sh3lbot 1 year ago
@sh3lbot Does that smell any different than a 12A?
aaroncake 1 year ago
@aaroncake Just got back from my garage. They both smell the same :) Love your work bud keep it up!
sh3lbot 1 year ago
Long video, but very intresting project
Russell042 1 year ago
That little rivet too is amazing, i love how it works.
I really enjoy watching your videos they are really entertaining to watch and it's great to see how cars are built/restored from top to bottom.
Keep up the great progress i can't wait for the next installment =)
HEKTIC458 1 year ago
Do you happen to know where you got that rivnut tool?? All of the ones I've found are crazy complicated or the regular rivet gun style. Yours is very simple an effective. If you recall where you got it I'd love to know....
dirtymoe77 1 year ago
@dirtymoe77 I purchased it from my local fastener store. They had it in stock. It is basically just a strong bolt, with a bushing that fits around it. You can probably rig something similar up with any old bolt of the correct size and then a matching bushing. Or get a nut and then drill the threads out. Put a washer between the bolt head and nut. I've installed a few that way and it works fine, but takes a little practice.
aaroncake 1 year ago
Thanks guy, I actually found one online like it. Took a bit of looking around but thank you!
dirtymoe77 1 year ago
loved watching it, wonder whats in the plastic bag ... hmmm.... didnt know it was so interesting to see how someone putting stuff into a door lol
sjaakiepot 1 year ago
You didn't paint the holes from rusting
fppgames 1 year ago 2
@fppgames Which holes?
aaroncake 1 year ago
@aaroncake those you drilled out, but since you screwed those... thing in them it's probably not an issue.
fppgames 1 year ago
@fppgames Ah, good catch! Looks like I forgot. I'll have to go back with seam sealer and make the area weather tight.
aaroncake 1 year ago
I don't mind the long video at all. Great work and amazing attention to detail as usual!
1SWEETRX7 1 year ago
@1SWEETRX7 Thank you! I was worried people would find it too long. I'm going to try and keep things at the 15 minute level. Though the next one will be long as well. It turned out to be a bit more work than I thought to make the power window actuators fit nicely, but was worth it in the end. Now the interior door panels will sit flat.
aaroncake 1 year ago
AAron instead of using a Metal hammer you should use a Body hammer for Hammering Plastics. The Metal Hammer could Damage the Plastic the your screwed.
darkblaze176 1 year ago
@darkblaze176 Yeah, I didn't have a plastic hammer so I just reached for the machinist's hammer. I used a lot of very light blows as to not avoid the plastic, but to anyone else I would certainly recommend using a plastic or rubber hammer. Or place a block of wood between the hammer and plastic.
aaroncake 1 year ago
NEXT PART <3
supremewhip 1 year ago
Cannot wait until the next part, here's hopeing it isnt in like two months :P
Sneddz1 1 year ago
@Sneddz1 It won't be. I have all the footage now, I just need to start editing it. Since it is rather linear, it should be an easy edit. Though it is a busy time of the year for me (auto shows) I would hope that it will be posted in early March.
aaroncake 1 year ago
More Kraftwerk!
R0kket 1 year ago
thats what she said!
ColbOCon 1 year ago
im always learning something with your videos, keep up the good work!
infinite7z 1 year ago