The Alpine Equalizer Demo - New

[badkid73]

It's not redundant 3 ways. If one part of the dyneema cord snaps, you're toast.

[Superjakopine]

Hm, bei einem Faktor 1 Sturz in den Stand könnte es bei all den Knoten am Karabiner zu einer Schmelzverbrennung kommen. Würd ich so nicht mehr machen....

[JesusNo2]

Lots of money wasted, old system was never broken. ALSO this guy didn't use screw gate on all but on wire. If you make instructional videos, even with a disclaimer that this isn't perfect, don't do it unless you do it right!

[JimboWizbo]

Is each anchor independent? Will it still "auto equalise" after clove htiching?

[millermatt5087]

i feel like if one of those anchors broke out and the cord broke then it wouldnt be redundent? because it looks like u depend just on that alpine equaliser, and so idk im new to climbing.. so im not sure??

[gimmysan]

I bought a paor of these and will be sending them back. While they are well manufactured (as you would expect from a great company like Trango) the basic concept behind the product is flawed. The device suffers from terrible extension issues and the "fixes" they suggest result in a non-equalized anchor. Great idea but you are better off building an equalette and save the money for something else. Just my .02 worth.

[wburgboy75]

When you tie clove hitches, is it still dynamically equalized if there's some movement? By the way, this is quicker and would cost about the same as it would to do it with dyneema slings and a few biners. Good setup, but he failed to mention the best setup which would be to tie extension limiting knots. That way you could still get full equalization and minimize shock loading if one of the pieces failed.

[ruckmaknight]

fake and gay did he died

[josh084479]

Nothing a long runner can't do....

[sinky101]

seems like an expensive way to ensure that your anchors aren't independent.

[betterbeelmo]

it has an atvantage and disatvantage.. if u now that ur anochor point is gonna move a lot, from the left to the right.. it stil divides the force on the anchorpoints.. but if one break outs, u will have a bigger force on the 2 other anchor points.... thats the disatvantage.... so i think the choice will be more ur own..

and never forget there is always a other situation in the rock.. no place is the same.. so addapt to it..

[davervr6]

As soon as you place that nut and lean back on the system it will only be pulling on that nut, until it pulls out which it likely would.

[WorldClimb]

A single placement fail will shock load the others. Not a good idea.

[tattysmith]

total gimmick. Thats not a substitute for using your rope and an HMS for anchors. Or as versatile as a piece of static rigging rope. Just one more piece of kit to haul up a crag. Much like the cordelette

[hockey9678]

bsalak you will alway want to equalize your anchor points just to be safe even if its a bomber anchor because if one pops then you would be able to get down safely

[furiouspaul]

I really hope no one is taken by this 'invention'. What happens if one of the placements pops out? The whole anchor would slip, and since its made of dyneema (static) it will probably rip the other placements out with it or even break your carabiners. I would strongly suggest that people use a sling and equalize their placements with an overhand knot. Also, you will save yourself whatever daft price they are charging for these things.

[Ggabes826]

@furiouspaul However if you are climbing multidirectionally with an overhand knot you put all the weight on one anchor point and leaving the other 2 useless, i do agree though tht if one point fails it does shockload the entire system which could be problematic at best

[500846]

@furiouspaul did you watch the whole video??

[bskalak22]

If you have a bombproof anchor do you need an equilizer?

[BewareOfOranges]

most ppl will tend to use at least 2 anchors, ones just asking for trouble :-)

[jamsee88]

Couldnt you do the exact same with a 240 sling?

[Bizzaz420]

Seems that it can't self equalize while maintaining a no extension configuration. Personally I feel like no extension is of primary importance, and hopefully you don't really need it to self equalize much. I really don't see how, even with the clove hitches, the other two pieces wouldn't shockload if the other popped. It's a cool idea and probably useful in a lot of situations but I just don't think it can replace a cordellete or webollete set up,

[csuwehling]

this is a fun toy, but one of the downsides is dyneema and spectra are static materials which means in the event of a fall, the materials don't absorb the forces, instead they redirect to your pro, increasing the chance of failure. but this is the same with cordelettes, nylon runners and cords are about the only anchor materials that absorb much.

[ltj999]

The length of webbing/cord etc. used in an anchor is so small compared to the length of dynamic rope used that it makes any force absorption done by runners or cords negligible.

[csuwehling]

If your 5ft out on lead with no pro in and take a factor 2 fall directly onto your anchor tied with a typical 20 foot cordelette I don't see that your argument is valid. Yeah if your leader is a ways out with pro in, but its those short falls that create the biggest impact forces.

[54spiritedwill54]

thats cool !

[ajmoir]

So how is this better than cordelette or webolette?

I used to use a cordellte but went with webolette due to bulk and weight savings.

Also to make the equalizing serene why not the usual big overhand not of all three stands?

I remain to be convinced this is an improvement over simpler set ups.

[csuwehling]

Read John Long's Climbing Anchors book, the 2nd Ed. He talks about how tying the knot doesn't actually equalize an anchor. Check it out, very informational.

[ajmoir]

I've read both of John's anchor books, as well as most of his others. Plus freedom of the mountains, I'm no rock wizard but I get by.

My question was not about equalizing but the redundant, no-extension bits. Without the knot this looks like it would shock load if one of the anchors failed. Also, if the thing is cut does the anchor not completely fail, invalidating the more than one point of failure rule.

Just seems a poor replacement for webolette.

[micahisaac]

so when one piece blows it shock loads the system?

[foobargorch]

yes, but you should probably be able to tie off the right and left sides (not the middle) about two inches from the rings, like a normal cordelette anchor

[ZeidOrgorum]

I was actually very skeptical of this device until I watched the demonstration. Excellent video.

[climber123boy]

I already knew how to use one of these, but this video was really cool and informative. thanks for posting

[SandSnip3r]

thats really cool, i want one'!

[rldeckers]

nice