wrong! nobody clean an anchor the way this guy does. this is wrong. make sure you know the correct way before trying. it can be life or death. death sooner rather than later for this guy though.
this is stupid.. i never have the rope untied from me. usless i have not other choice.. i always feed a bite through the anchors tie a figure8 on a bite clip the to me then untie my original 8... and i never ever clip to snappy biners together! just asking for trouble
two non locking carabiners chained together can easily unclip from each other if twisted in the proper directions. try it... will that ever happen in this situation? probably not... but why tempt fate. why not girth hitch a "lifeline" to the harness with a locker? to save a few ounces?. jmho and also why not top rope off quick draws attached to the first ring on the bolt hanger? eliminate all the unnecessary links in the chain
What - this is crazy. I guess this guy is either a mass murderer, wants to kill himself or is just stupid. back to back quick draws to set up an anchor. Does he know about loading, gate opening and safety. You tube has a lot to answer for but put this into practice at your peril. MAD.
I use two slings attached directly to my harness, and go indirect to each bolt with a locker. Makes me feel a lot safer than the quickdraw method. Remember it is always better/less wear on the perma-gear to rappel down rather than be lowered down, especially down here in the Red River Gorge where the sandstone causes the ropes to eat through the gear pretty quick.
@erikkloeker Second the not lowering off the fixed gear. I was in RRG 4 weeks ago and just this last week and saw pretty experienced climbers lowering off the anchors instead of rappelling. Pissed me off since you can already see grooves developing on the gear because of this practice.
@ZeroContentSF Yeah it's a pretty big problem down here, even the stainless steel is no match for repeated lowerings, the sand gets in the rope and it becomes sandpaper.
I keep seeing this on YouTube.. Why would you use your belay loop when it takes 2 seconds to just clip it through your waist and leg straps. The belay loop is a single piece of protection! Clipping through where the rope runs is much safer, especially when you're at the top of your route doing shit with both of your hands.
@YouWill87 Never clip a carabiner to the two loops on your harness. The carabiner can become cross-loaded and if not it's basically guaranteed to be loaded triaxially. Belay loop is plenty strong (you trust it to hold you when you catch a lead fall, after all!)
I thought he explained it everything very well actually. Some of the videos I have seen on here have been dangerous, this was a great video. You're a good teacher man, keep it up :D
"Straight in?" "Back on you?" I think I'll stick with my standard commands of "Slack x feet" and "tension." If I never shout "off belay" Then I don't need to ask "back on you?" Your commands are ambiguous.
hmmm what about at minute 1:09 ??? you take the rope out? ------ then two points of contact!! would like to see a video with more redundancy and TWO points ALL the time....then into a position to rap down. Can you suggest another video using a sling instead of another draw for the direct?
One other thing though, when he clips his second quickdraw in is he not better off clipping to the one on his harness instead of the one on the left (is that the masterpoint?) just to equalise it out?
@lifeguard7 Actualy it is a re-threaded 8 but instead of following his working end back up at the end he's put the tail back into the knot, I can't figure out why though, it did look like there wasn't enough slack to put a stopper on after the 8 so that may be it.
@Velcan Its a way of stopping the figure of 8 from tightening up too much in hard falls. Its pretty obscure and not talked about too much. There isn't too much safety data on it and I wouldn't personally trust it.
@happynotnormal Oh, interesting thanks for the info. I agree though I don't think I'd trust it either really, plus (though I've not had a severe fall) I don't find it very hard to get a figure 8 out. Thanks again, Velcan.
I don't understand why he wants to do it that way, when there are those huge quicklinks in the chains. He could just thread a bight of rope through and then tie a 8 on a bight an clip that to himself, and after that untie the original 8 and pull the end through. Much safer way?
DISLIKE. This guy may be a good climber, but he is NOT a good example of climbing safety. There are several things that could be done much better without the same effort. First, his life depends on that one quick draw attached the his belay loop (or donut as he calls it). Will that draw fail? Probably not, but don't tell me this is redundant. 2nd he clips his two draws biner to biner. Again, another no no. A biner to biner connection is more likely to unclip with twisting. This is the same
(continued) reason or similar to back clipping. Will he die? No. But the risk he adds is unnecessary. 3rd I could not get a real close look, but I'm pretty sure that was not a legit figure 8 knot. Looks like he tied an 8, then followed through with an over hand. It works, he won't die, but its just sloppy. What's even scarier is that he triple checked his knot! 4th Thing. The cold shuts (or open shuts) at the end of the video... way shady. If that's all you have, ok, deal with what you got. But
(cont 2 of 3) to top rope off these open shuts seems like tempting fate to me. I would use them for lowering only at last resort. So, to fix all these thing, just remember to 1) never put your life on only one piece of gear 2) connect two draws from biner to loop, not biner-biner. 3) know how to tie knots correctly and check them seriously 4) don't top rope off of cold shuts unless they are closed loops and in good condition.
@masonbiker01 (cont 2 of 3) In defence: 1) Tempting fate? Last resort? Arm chair comments, which indicate to me that you do little to no climbing. 2) Your third conclusive point contradicts your statement, "What's even scarier is that he triple checked his knot!" and you state that one should seriously check their knot. Explain? 3) I hope no offence is taken but you do not sound like a climber to me, your analysis is poor and made comments that are a sign of an arm chair climber.
@masonbiker01 (Continued) In defence: 1) Back clipping? system is loaded. Again poor analysis. 2) No comment on the knot, there are 101 ways to do it and not yours to question. 3) He tripled checked his knot? poor comment. 4) Analysis of the cold shut system is not informative, why is it shady?
@masonbiker01 In defence, 1) The system is loaded so there is no chance the "biner to biner" will unclip. 2) If you think that a biner with loading rates of over 2 tonnes is likely to fail under say 70kgs of a man, maybe you should think about another sport. 3) "good example of climbing safety" would not involve removing the rope from you harness but thread the rope through and form an overhand knot and attach a screwgate onto the overhand loop and then harness. Then untie the rope from harness.
Then you have the option of either advising your belayer to let you down OR you can actually rappel yourself from the belay side of the rope. It definitely works and it's a nice method without having to retie yourself in.
Another method I was told by an old climber by a sport climbing near me is to keep yourself tied and secure yourself to a link in the chain. Then advise your belayer to go off belay. Then take a bight of the rope and feed the bight thru both chains. Then feed enough through that you can tie an overhand knot in the bight (or as I prefer on overhand on a bight which creates two loops vs one). Anyway then attached that overhand to your harness with a locker or two or a locker and a non-locker......
Geesh, all the criticism the poor guy gets on here. Nothing he did was incorrect. Lowering off chains is only frowned upon at populated areas, and if people are responsible will replace the $2 worth of chains when needed. Quickdraws are just as strong as a daisy chain.
Why would anyone use quickdraws to anchor themselves into bolts? slings are cheap and at least one locking carabiner would make more sense to me. Not that this method would be terribly unsafe just that there are many safer ways that are equally effective for cleaning anchors.
I don't get it: do people nowadays not have enough money for a screwgate carabiner for toproping? it's lighter, saver, simpler and at least cheaper than using 2 quickdraws (even if you yuse 2 carabiners)......
Practically the first thing I learned as new climber was to NEVER top-rope or lower off the chains because of the wear it puts on the last link. I was shocked to see Chris Lindner lowering directly off of chains and bolts. He did show how to top rope off your own gear, so kudos there, but if I am the last climber, I always pull up the rope and rap down. Pulling the rope is far less wear and tear on the chains than lowering.
ehhh? that last "bolt" or whatever you call it looks VERY strange, and... NOT SAFE.
Btw, I understand there is a "climbing culture" in some places, where you try to take as less equipment as possible... but when I see you using 2 quickdraws to clip yourself to the rock, I must ask... wouldn`t it be easyer and safer to use a daisy chain tied to your harness with a screwlock gate carabiner on the other side? It`s plain simple, and with another carabiener you can adjust it for precise confort.
argh. please please please!! do not top rope or belay from fixed anchors. You should TR or belay from your own biners or draws, but only run your rope through fixed gear if you are rappelling from it. Then you can pull your un-weighted rope from the chains, etc. NEVER belay from fixed gear, unless you plan on coming back to replace it.
Quickdraw here, quickdraw there.. oh, did I mention the quickdraw already?
This is a unsafe and totally unprofessional way of doing it.
Awful..
Lachsfilet 1 week ago
wrong! nobody clean an anchor the way this guy does. this is wrong. make sure you know the correct way before trying. it can be life or death. death sooner rather than later for this guy though.
rshamman 3 weeks ago 2
so none of this is really..."wrong" but it's surely not right...or smart.
t64169 1 month ago 2
sneeze unclip ... shit AHHHHHHHHH
Berzerkdj 2 months ago
this is stupid.. i never have the rope untied from me. usless i have not other choice.. i always feed a bite through the anchors tie a figure8 on a bite clip the to me then untie my original 8... and i never ever clip to snappy biners together! just asking for trouble
grubwestatron 3 months ago
two non locking carabiners chained together can easily unclip from each other if twisted in the proper directions. try it... will that ever happen in this situation? probably not... but why tempt fate. why not girth hitch a "lifeline" to the harness with a locker? to save a few ounces?. jmho and also why not top rope off quick draws attached to the first ring on the bolt hanger? eliminate all the unnecessary links in the chain
zodiac272 3 months ago
What a fucking ridiculous way of threading. you Mad son?!
woody0606 4 months ago 2
Great vid very helpfull
everettlamborn 4 months ago
What - this is crazy. I guess this guy is either a mass murderer, wants to kill himself or is just stupid. back to back quick draws to set up an anchor. Does he know about loading, gate opening and safety. You tube has a lot to answer for but put this into practice at your peril. MAD.
flubertin 4 months ago 5
Nice video. My only concern is that it's a good practice to let the belayer know you're going back on them before you unclip.
510han 4 months ago
I thought it was a very good video.
spinocchio 4 months ago
Self-anchor through belay loop is fine. Biner to biner is crazy.
Bonerboy2011 5 months ago 2
@Bonerboy2011 Biner to biner IS crazy... especially triaxial loading the one.
SupronDu 4 months ago
I use two slings attached directly to my harness, and go indirect to each bolt with a locker. Makes me feel a lot safer than the quickdraw method. Remember it is always better/less wear on the perma-gear to rappel down rather than be lowered down, especially down here in the Red River Gorge where the sandstone causes the ropes to eat through the gear pretty quick.
erikkloeker 5 months ago 2
@erikkloeker Second the not lowering off the fixed gear. I was in RRG 4 weeks ago and just this last week and saw pretty experienced climbers lowering off the anchors instead of rappelling. Pissed me off since you can already see grooves developing on the gear because of this practice.
ZeroContentSF 3 months ago 2
@ZeroContentSF Yeah it's a pretty big problem down here, even the stainless steel is no match for repeated lowerings, the sand gets in the rope and it becomes sandpaper.
erikkloeker 1 month ago
I keep seeing this on YouTube.. Why would you use your belay loop when it takes 2 seconds to just clip it through your waist and leg straps. The belay loop is a single piece of protection! Clipping through where the rope runs is much safer, especially when you're at the top of your route doing shit with both of your hands.
YouWill87 5 months ago
@YouWill87 Never clip a carabiner to the two loops on your harness. The carabiner can become cross-loaded and if not it's basically guaranteed to be loaded triaxially. Belay loop is plenty strong (you trust it to hold you when you catch a lead fall, after all!)
Lagrangianification 5 months ago
hahaha wow. please fall
DMoncayo04 6 months ago
I thought he explained it everything very well actually. Some of the videos I have seen on here have been dangerous, this was a great video. You're a good teacher man, keep it up :D
poeticmelodies 6 months ago
"Donut" -- it's called a belay loop BRO.
awquity 6 months ago
I have seen better and saver ways doing this.
Simply selfanchor yourself to the belay, then take a big loop of rope, put it through
both chains. Then tie a Figure of eight on a bight on the loop you pushed through the
chains and connect it to your belay loop with a locking biner.
So now your anchored 2 times - 1x your short fix and 1x the climbing rope.
Then you can untie the basic tiein-knot and pull the rope back through the chains.
Then simply let your partner lower you of.
Climb Safe!
evanescence1984 7 months ago
"Straight in?" "Back on you?" I think I'll stick with my standard commands of "Slack x feet" and "tension." If I never shout "off belay" Then I don't need to ask "back on you?" Your commands are ambiguous.
rh32793us 7 months ago
hmmm what about at minute 1:09 ??? you take the rope out? ------ then two points of contact!! would like to see a video with more redundancy and TWO points ALL the time....then into a position to rap down. Can you suggest another video using a sling instead of another draw for the direct?
DerekEvilsizor 7 months ago
no!!! Chris no es la forma !! sorry !
fedezambrano2007 8 months ago
One other thing though, when he clips his second quickdraw in is he not better off clipping to the one on his harness instead of the one on the left (is that the masterpoint?) just to equalise it out?
Velcan 8 months ago
@lifeguard7 Actualy it is a re-threaded 8 but instead of following his working end back up at the end he's put the tail back into the knot, I can't figure out why though, it did look like there wasn't enough slack to put a stopper on after the 8 so that may be it.
Velcan 8 months ago
@Velcan Its a way of stopping the figure of 8 from tightening up too much in hard falls. Its pretty obscure and not talked about too much. There isn't too much safety data on it and I wouldn't personally trust it.
happynotnormal 8 months ago
@happynotnormal Oh, interesting thanks for the info. I agree though I don't think I'd trust it either really, plus (though I've not had a severe fall) I don't find it very hard to get a figure 8 out. Thanks again, Velcan.
Velcan 8 months ago
I don't understand why he wants to do it that way, when there are those huge quicklinks in the chains. He could just thread a bight of rope through and then tie a 8 on a bight an clip that to himself, and after that untie the original 8 and pull the end through. Much safer way?
tnenonen13 9 months ago
DISLIKE. This guy may be a good climber, but he is NOT a good example of climbing safety. There are several things that could be done much better without the same effort. First, his life depends on that one quick draw attached the his belay loop (or donut as he calls it). Will that draw fail? Probably not, but don't tell me this is redundant. 2nd he clips his two draws biner to biner. Again, another no no. A biner to biner connection is more likely to unclip with twisting. This is the same
masonbiker01 9 months ago
(continued) reason or similar to back clipping. Will he die? No. But the risk he adds is unnecessary. 3rd I could not get a real close look, but I'm pretty sure that was not a legit figure 8 knot. Looks like he tied an 8, then followed through with an over hand. It works, he won't die, but its just sloppy. What's even scarier is that he triple checked his knot! 4th Thing. The cold shuts (or open shuts) at the end of the video... way shady. If that's all you have, ok, deal with what you got. But
masonbiker01 9 months ago
(cont 2 of 3) to top rope off these open shuts seems like tempting fate to me. I would use them for lowering only at last resort. So, to fix all these thing, just remember to 1) never put your life on only one piece of gear 2) connect two draws from biner to loop, not biner-biner. 3) know how to tie knots correctly and check them seriously 4) don't top rope off of cold shuts unless they are closed loops and in good condition.
masonbiker01 9 months ago
@masonbiker01 (cont 2 of 3) In defence: 1) Tempting fate? Last resort? Arm chair comments, which indicate to me that you do little to no climbing. 2) Your third conclusive point contradicts your statement, "What's even scarier is that he triple checked his knot!" and you state that one should seriously check their knot. Explain? 3) I hope no offence is taken but you do not sound like a climber to me, your analysis is poor and made comments that are a sign of an arm chair climber.
owain1916 9 months ago
@masonbiker01 What is wrong with biner-to-biner? Biner-to-hanger is worse than that, but you do it every time you lead (if you even climb)
1694kyle 9 months ago
@masonbiker01 (Continued) In defence: 1) Back clipping? system is loaded. Again poor analysis. 2) No comment on the knot, there are 101 ways to do it and not yours to question. 3) He tripled checked his knot? poor comment. 4) Analysis of the cold shut system is not informative, why is it shady?
owain1916 9 months ago
@masonbiker01 In defence, 1) The system is loaded so there is no chance the "biner to biner" will unclip. 2) If you think that a biner with loading rates of over 2 tonnes is likely to fail under say 70kgs of a man, maybe you should think about another sport. 3) "good example of climbing safety" would not involve removing the rope from you harness but thread the rope through and form an overhand knot and attach a screwgate onto the overhand loop and then harness. Then untie the rope from harness.
owain1916 9 months ago
@masonbiker01 You always have ONE rope attached to you....is that a lack of redundancy?
1694kyle 9 months ago
Continued......
Then you have the option of either advising your belayer to let you down OR you can actually rappel yourself from the belay side of the rope. It definitely works and it's a nice method without having to retie yourself in.
MrSteltz 9 months ago
Another method I was told by an old climber by a sport climbing near me is to keep yourself tied and secure yourself to a link in the chain. Then advise your belayer to go off belay. Then take a bight of the rope and feed the bight thru both chains. Then feed enough through that you can tie an overhand knot in the bight (or as I prefer on overhand on a bight which creates two loops vs one). Anyway then attached that overhand to your harness with a locker or two or a locker and a non-locker......
MrSteltz 9 months ago
Geesh, all the criticism the poor guy gets on here. Nothing he did was incorrect. Lowering off chains is only frowned upon at populated areas, and if people are responsible will replace the $2 worth of chains when needed. Quickdraws are just as strong as a daisy chain.
tisakson 10 months ago
Awesome Video! Helped Me Out Alot!!!!!!!!!!
chadludwick 10 months ago
Why would anyone use quickdraws to anchor themselves into bolts? slings are cheap and at least one locking carabiner would make more sense to me. Not that this method would be terribly unsafe just that there are many safer ways that are equally effective for cleaning anchors.
jtnorg 10 months ago
WTF figure 8 was that???
lifeguard7 10 months ago
@lifeguard7 yeah it looked like it was only half re-threaded didn't it?
Velcan 8 months ago
Very nice demonstration and advice. I enjoyed watching it. Thanks for sharing you knowledge.
JamesPliny 1 year ago
I don't get it: do people nowadays not have enough money for a screwgate carabiner for toproping? it's lighter, saver, simpler and at least cheaper than using 2 quickdraws (even if you yuse 2 carabiners)......
bikeclochard 1 year ago 8
@bikeclochard couldnt agree more, this is a daft way to climb
thomaselgarsmith 1 year ago 11
@bikeclochard This chap is sponsored by petzl. So the nice big petzl draws are great.
happynotnormal 8 months ago
@bikeclochard hess not topropping hes lead climbing
mtnhiker94 2 days ago
@mtnhiker94
yes but he says around 0:45 that two quickdraws are a good setup for toproping, and I disagree.
bikeclochard 2 days ago
fucking sport climbers...
fenix990 1 year ago
Practically the first thing I learned as new climber was to NEVER top-rope or lower off the chains because of the wear it puts on the last link. I was shocked to see Chris Lindner lowering directly off of chains and bolts. He did show how to top rope off your own gear, so kudos there, but if I am the last climber, I always pull up the rope and rap down. Pulling the rope is far less wear and tear on the chains than lowering.
brooskoch 1 year ago
i dont think that you should put beaner to beaner !! that is a good way to fall when you stress the beaner
kipperwave1313 1 year ago
ehhh? that last "bolt" or whatever you call it looks VERY strange, and... NOT SAFE.
Btw, I understand there is a "climbing culture" in some places, where you try to take as less equipment as possible... but when I see you using 2 quickdraws to clip yourself to the rock, I must ask... wouldn`t it be easyer and safer to use a daisy chain tied to your harness with a screwlock gate carabiner on the other side? It`s plain simple, and with another carabiener you can adjust it for precise confort.
kusterLR 1 year ago
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mtnfun37 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
argh. please please please!! do not top rope or belay from fixed anchors. You should TR or belay from your own biners or draws, but only run your rope through fixed gear if you are rappelling from it. Then you can pull your un-weighted rope from the chains, etc. NEVER belay from fixed gear, unless you plan on coming back to replace it.
hardcorebikrx 1 year ago
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hardcorebikrx 1 year ago
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hardcorebikrx 1 year ago