What you just measured was a full wave peak to peak voltage output and amperage draw. After doing your voltage x amperage math, you divide that factor by 2.8 to know True RMS. Don't believe me? Look it up or ask any seasoned electrician.
Or just buy a True RMS Meter. The clamps are True Meters but only true the amperage draw. So you're actually at about more like 1200 watts RMS. Between test tones and knowing the math, THIS is how companies give us specs.
@JonDeth Really?Ever heard the saying I'm a Master of Engineered Custodial Arts or a janitor if you want to be a dick about it? Your being that dick about it!Dude I have a CEET degree.I know what RMS means. ROOT MEANING SQUARE. I know the .707 rule for voltage. Company's spec given thou are cal. though in avg not RMS. Look, If you ever decide to go to a car competition, This is how they will meter your amp in the lines to make sure your in the right class to compete in. thanks for input tho
@mikehoncho119 the only one being a dick is you. I merely pointed out your mistake and you lashed out like a child. You measured peak to peak voltage and your "degree" is rather worthless since you clearly do not understand what that means.
You measured full wave voltage.
RMS is used to reflect reliable power in laymen terms. If you are at the peak of your power and need to demand more, where will it come from?
@JonDeth relax kid,The point was your being to literal. Not that your being a dick. Second I do this as a hobby, you have the time and want to build High current amps, go ahead. Yeah, your right in title should be how to clamp/meter. problem is for common purpose most all company's have rated what they are off avg not true calculated rms values, True Competition amps another story.
For common purpose clamp/testing is what the vid is for
@mikehoncho119 a kid is someone that tells outrageous lies and calls someone names for trying to steer them towards the correct path.
The best way to know your amps potential output is to hook it up to a oscilloscope while running a static test tone through the amp. I guess they didn't teach you that in college? lmao!
I'll actually be fair about this anyway. RMS is irrelevant in the power your amp is producing because it's audio. You want to know peak to peak.The speaker will never demand more power because it's a passive component and the final stage of the circuit cascade.
RMS power is only relevant in what the amp is drawing not producing. If a song comes on that's louder than the last and your amp needs headroom, ideally you have it set so it's running at RMS draw and can draw into peak occasionally.
@mikehoncho119 in fact if you are a college educated adult with an engineering degree, it's rather unlikely you would be using commercially built equipment let alone behaving with such immaturity. You measured your equipment's highest level of operating performance under ideal conditions.
So if you hit that cascade with a multiplier taking it beyond those peak to peak specs under ideal conditions, you'll cook it.
This is why RMS is important and you clearly do not understand that.
@SenorDennis had to go back and watch the video to see where you were getting that number... there's actually a decimal thats a little hard to see... you see 280... it's actually 28.0 amps
120.8 x 28 gave me like 3380 an some change for say at whatever freq that was(was a sweep)
120.8/28 gave me 4.2 - 1ohm wiring gave me a 3.2 box rise for that box I was running
So if im understanding you properly I multiply the numbers for rms the divide them for box rise? So if I divide and get say 2 then I add that to my current ohm load to get the ohm load the amp is seeing? Like my load is 2 ohms and if I add that 2 ohms box rise to get a final of 4 ohms right? Then the rms I get would be my rms at 4 ohms? Sorry im deciding on what amp to buy and im tryin to get all the specifics lol.
Update: my bad... with previos box yea I was getting 2900ish with my doors closed properly not much better than the 5.8 but was..... new box design an now down to a 2.5 ohm box rise wired to 1 ohm <- im awnsering loudsport here... it total an equal 3.5 at round 12.5v which when doing the math off the meters and if you look at Soundstreams manual I hit 3800 watts ruff. So what the books say they can do/ can be done but it's up to you to build the right efficient box with a low box rise
Yea,you should be using your max hold on the meters if you have one that has it but if you notice my multimeter at that time of the video didnt have a max hold so kinda just said whatever.
That's starting to get into sound dynamics, my back door was open to shoot the video an that changes up the way my box was loading.. So at the time to shoot the video. Yes..
No under normal ( back door closed) conditions I get 3.9 ohm box rise with around 3700ish watts. Your set up an car has alot to do with it too. Like I said. Box rise is a whole nother video.
You're still doing the math wrong.
What you just measured was a full wave peak to peak voltage output and amperage draw. After doing your voltage x amperage math, you divide that factor by 2.8 to know True RMS. Don't believe me? Look it up or ask any seasoned electrician.
Or just buy a True RMS Meter. The clamps are True Meters but only true the amperage draw. So you're actually at about more like 1200 watts RMS. Between test tones and knowing the math, THIS is how companies give us specs.
JonDeth 3 months ago
@JonDeth Really?Ever heard the saying I'm a Master of Engineered Custodial Arts or a janitor if you want to be a dick about it? Your being that dick about it!Dude I have a CEET degree.I know what RMS means. ROOT MEANING SQUARE. I know the .707 rule for voltage. Company's spec given thou are cal. though in avg not RMS. Look, If you ever decide to go to a car competition, This is how they will meter your amp in the lines to make sure your in the right class to compete in. thanks for input tho
mikehoncho119 3 months ago
@mikehoncho119 the only one being a dick is you. I merely pointed out your mistake and you lashed out like a child. You measured peak to peak voltage and your "degree" is rather worthless since you clearly do not understand what that means.
You measured full wave voltage.
RMS is used to reflect reliable power in laymen terms. If you are at the peak of your power and need to demand more, where will it come from?
Point blank, you're wrong.
JonDeth 3 months ago
@JonDeth relax kid,The point was your being to literal. Not that your being a dick. Second I do this as a hobby, you have the time and want to build High current amps, go ahead. Yeah, your right in title should be how to clamp/meter. problem is for common purpose most all company's have rated what they are off avg not true calculated rms values, True Competition amps another story.
For common purpose clamp/testing is what the vid is for
mikehoncho119 3 months ago
@mikehoncho119 a kid is someone that tells outrageous lies and calls someone names for trying to steer them towards the correct path.
The best way to know your amps potential output is to hook it up to a oscilloscope while running a static test tone through the amp. I guess they didn't teach you that in college? lmao!
JonDeth 3 months ago
I'll actually be fair about this anyway. RMS is irrelevant in the power your amp is producing because it's audio. You want to know peak to peak.The speaker will never demand more power because it's a passive component and the final stage of the circuit cascade.
RMS power is only relevant in what the amp is drawing not producing. If a song comes on that's louder than the last and your amp needs headroom, ideally you have it set so it's running at RMS draw and can draw into peak occasionally.
JonDeth 3 months ago
@mikehoncho119 in fact if you are a college educated adult with an engineering degree, it's rather unlikely you would be using commercially built equipment let alone behaving with such immaturity. You measured your equipment's highest level of operating performance under ideal conditions.
So if you hit that cascade with a multiplier taking it beyond those peak to peak specs under ideal conditions, you'll cook it.
This is why RMS is important and you clearly do not understand that.
JonDeth 3 months ago
how many rms are you subs?
zigzag4200000 4 months ago
@zigzag4200000 2000 watts RMS
mikehoncho119 4 months ago
@mikehoncho119 exactly 2k RMS, huh? right
gnarlycs 1 month ago
@SenorDennis had to go back and watch the video to see where you were getting that number... there's actually a decimal thats a little hard to see... you see 280... it's actually 28.0 amps
120.8 x 28 gave me like 3380 an some change for say at whatever freq that was(was a sweep)
120.8/28 gave me 4.2 - 1ohm wiring gave me a 3.2 box rise for that box I was running
Subs=Crossfire FTW!!!
mikehoncho119 4 months ago
280 amps??? What kind of subs are you running
SenorDennis 4 months ago
@xXjaketotheman737Xx
the dividing of the numbers from your meter = then minus wiring an thats your box rise... was still a little confused when I made the video.
Multipy your 2 metered numbers an that your RMS
hope this helps
mikehoncho119 7 months ago
So if im understanding you properly I multiply the numbers for rms the divide them for box rise? So if I divide and get say 2 then I add that to my current ohm load to get the ohm load the amp is seeing? Like my load is 2 ohms and if I add that 2 ohms box rise to get a final of 4 ohms right? Then the rms I get would be my rms at 4 ohms? Sorry im deciding on what amp to buy and im tryin to get all the specifics lol.
xXjaketotheman737Xx 7 months ago
after 3 mins i explain what to do with the meters... are you sure you finished watching the video
mikehoncho119 8 months ago
You didn't show us the numbers to multiply and do you have to close the doors to get the exact rms readings?
BROOKLYNBEAST226 8 months ago
Finally simple explanation
TAYSEXTREMEPITBULLS 10 months ago
Update: my bad... with previos box yea I was getting 2900ish with my doors closed properly not much better than the 5.8 but was..... new box design an now down to a 2.5 ohm box rise wired to 1 ohm <- im awnsering loudsport here... it total an equal 3.5 at round 12.5v which when doing the math off the meters and if you look at Soundstreams manual I hit 3800 watts ruff. So what the books say they can do/ can be done but it's up to you to build the right efficient box with a low box rise
mikehoncho119 1 year ago
Yea,you should be using your max hold on the meters if you have one that has it but if you notice my multimeter at that time of the video didnt have a max hold so kinda just said whatever.
mikehoncho119 1 year ago
shouldnt you set them to max hold so it will actually pause the numbers for you?
jesseadkins187 1 year ago
have you txested your xxx at 1 ohm? thats what mine will be at once its warmer out. and after box rise?
thanx and check out my vids
loudsport 1 year ago
That's starting to get into sound dynamics, my back door was open to shoot the video an that changes up the way my box was loading.. So at the time to shoot the video. Yes..
No under normal ( back door closed) conditions I get 3.9 ohm box rise with around 3700ish watts. Your set up an car has alot to do with it too. Like I said. Box rise is a whole nother video.
mikehoncho119 1 year ago
Yes an no. That's almost a tuff one to awnser
mikehoncho119 1 year ago
ok so by those calculations your getting abour 2800 rms at 5.8 ohms
splaudio1 1 year ago