Steve House and Vince Anderson: Gear for Nanga Parbat...

[AndrewFreschetta]

That's a good idea with the Tibloc for simul-climbing!

[liquids1987]

anyone knows wich sleeping pad is he showing on the video???

[pikeflyfisherman]

@liquids1987 Think its a Thermorest NeoAir !

[pikeflyfisherman]

@liquids1987 Apologies, its not a Neo Air. It is a Thermarest though, not sure of the model !

[CowboyKeN19]

I the fact that PATAGONIA is all about eco friendly but Steve House left his trash on over the mountain.. nuts and biners is understandable but leashes for his tools, prob left at the fire ring...

[TheKidMarmaDuke]

@CowboyKeN19 He said he left them in Pakistan, not on the mountain, he needed them for the descent too so I doubt he littered them. And guaranteed he didn't have a "fire ring" with no fuel around and situated on the side of a mountain.

[TheMuddymax]

How about a drinking Bottle and some food and Fuel????????????

[cwporterUCSD]

Assuming that you wouldn't ever have a hammer on an alpine route, how would you "hammer" your pitons?

[CowboyKeN19]

@cwporterUCSD your ice tools have a hammer..

[bilagahni]

@cwporterUCSD did you see the nob on the back of his ice tools? That is the hammer.

[ludzikmarudzik]

I think nuts are bit lower...

[YuureiInu]

Why he's not using petrol stove? I thought they're more fuel efficient, especially on high altitude.

[cmalchik]

Way over my head. :[

[ttljournal]

Ricoh GR1v camera ...

[mbgriffi]

What is the brand of stove?

[reddesert99]

stove is an MSR windpro.

what's impressive is how there's nothing super techy in the gear bag, except maybe a custom sleeping bag and titanium pins. it's just all really well thought out.

[Directissime]

@mbgriffi

MSR Windpro, a winter mountaineering must have !

Far better than a fuel stove !

[fanat1c]

Im curious about what tent he used. He doesn't talk much about it.

[chopinsmith]

Black Diamond Firstlight

[Geogoddess]

seriously - nice walk-thru. did not know that little trick about turning the fuel canister upside down. have to hand it to you- there is not alot of wiggle room in that gear bag. much was done with little. well played, sir!

I am looking forward to reading your book this winter, with the snows outside and my own climbing boots drying fireside.

[chopinsmith]

The trick with the stove is well known for high altitude climbers using gas canisters. If you use a standard lightweight stove (like the pocket rocket) and it's cold/at altitude, the stove burns off the propane and leaves the butane behind. With a remote canister stove with heating pipe and with the canister upside down, the butane/propane mix burns much more evenly, and you can cup your feet around the canister, or wedge the canister in an inner boot or wrap in in a warm sock to warm it.

[pirzifox]

wow, never saw such a good explanation for almost everything interesting you need.

Thx a lot

[reddirtg]

I didn't read anything about Steve & Vince spooning in any of the trip reports?!?

; P

[oe2kb]

The first thing I think about is rope. Not just prior to a climbing expedition but all the time, morning, noon & night. I LOVE rope...it's kind of a hobby of mine, 'has been since I was a kid. I don't believe it had too much to do with the fact that my parents tied me to the bed each night when they went out drinking -- EVERYONE did that! You should see my collection of rope off-cuts! I pick them up at the top of crags - they're really easy to cut from ropes that I find hanging over the edge...

[armstrongw5]

hey steve, petzl recommends using biners with an oval cross section when using tiblocs. if you need any other tips, let me know. can i get that piolet d'or from yous? jk.

[sliamese]

haha but if you'll find ovals get cross loaded way easier and hurt the poor rope!!

[shk253]

Steve House is considered to be the best active high altitude alpine style climber by Reinhold Messner... No wonder! This guy is amazing! 60 hours nonstop on Denali!!!

Alpinists are badasses... Unreal.

[steffi178830]

exactely...just read an interview where he said that he lost some 8kgs during the ascent and was not fully recovered for more than half a year... also I like his attitude towards "clean climbing" (alpine style) and gimmicks he is considering taking the spirit out of climbing... he´s very straight about that... little bit my personal hero that guy :0)

[playdrums]

damn informative. learned a good bit from this.

[DeepSouthBuilder]

Sick. Steve your a fvcking madman. i was rolling my eyes at every last item. How the hell do you do it? Anyone that hasn't read their account of this climb needs to get on it. Crazy stuff.

[mclaren855]

Excellent.........