wouldnt you get some crazy amount of bacteria going on in that. the transparent tanks would enable lots of activity, also many plastics have a much shorter life with uv exposure, including pvc.. I'm not looking to bash your work, just suggesting possible improvements
I believe your system may have significant energy losses. If you reduce it to a simple series of barrels with one low-level exit valve you will increase your water flow rate. Just some food for thought. Enjoyed your video, thanks for sharing.
that's 2" pipe. water flow is not an issue. It's done like it is to get maximum head and thus pressure. something I could not get with a series of barrels, at least not on the ground. having to build a support to get them up high and fit in the space available was out of the question. I find the larger tanks are much better than all the connections of the smaller barrels. having done both.
Connect fittings to the bung holes in the tank caps, or saw holes in the caps and hot-melt glue fittings into these. Connect the side-branch of a tee to each cap. Now string the four IBC totes together via the tees in the caps, and a couple elbows to make the bend from the top row to the bottom. The tee from the top of the last tank goes to the overflow. Tap each tank at its valve. No external valves are needed. Bruce Freeman 5/31/11
you need to leave a place for the air to escape when they are filling up or you get air lock and your tanks don't fill. also you don't want to have that kind of water pressure on capped tanks below, they will balloon out and cause troubles for you and you would never get that sealed well enough anyway.
If you use 2" pipe, that won't be an issue. The water can flow down one side of the pipe while the air flows up the other. Obviously the air does need someplace to go, but vents of that sort can easily be left in the system. Unfortunately, my own system is not yet complete. I did collect over 2000 gallons and maintained that through the season -- draining it only just before our October snowfall! -- but that was with kludged connections to the downspout, relocated manually.
nice job ! where did you find the barrels ? TKS
vid009 2 months ago
wouldnt you get some crazy amount of bacteria going on in that. the transparent tanks would enable lots of activity, also many plastics have a much shorter life with uv exposure, including pvc.. I'm not looking to bash your work, just suggesting possible improvements
cekiert 3 months ago
@cekiert they got painted black shortly after that video. you are right.
sunnyrasunny 3 months ago
I believe your system may have significant energy losses. If you reduce it to a simple series of barrels with one low-level exit valve you will increase your water flow rate. Just some food for thought. Enjoyed your video, thanks for sharing.
harpoon52 3 months ago
@harpoon52
that's 2" pipe. water flow is not an issue. It's done like it is to get maximum head and thus pressure. something I could not get with a series of barrels, at least not on the ground. having to build a support to get them up high and fit in the space available was out of the question. I find the larger tanks are much better than all the connections of the smaller barrels. having done both.
sunnyrasunny 3 months ago
im totaly jelous
BillBrasky7718 5 months ago
Well, I did something wrong in creating a "video" response illustrating my previous concept.
Search YouTube video PaqJTrE4G7U to see the pic.
(I couldn't even publish a live link here!)
freemab222 9 months ago
Very clever.
An alternative that uses less plumbing:
Connect fittings to the bung holes in the tank caps, or saw holes in the caps and hot-melt glue fittings into these. Connect the side-branch of a tee to each cap. Now string the four IBC totes together via the tees in the caps, and a couple elbows to make the bend from the top row to the bottom. The tee from the top of the last tank goes to the overflow. Tap each tank at its valve. No external valves are needed. Bruce Freeman 5/31/11
freemab222 9 months ago
@freemab222
you need to leave a place for the air to escape when they are filling up or you get air lock and your tanks don't fill. also you don't want to have that kind of water pressure on capped tanks below, they will balloon out and cause troubles for you and you would never get that sealed well enough anyway.
sunnyrasunny 3 months ago
@sunnyrasunny
If you use 2" pipe, that won't be an issue. The water can flow down one side of the pipe while the air flows up the other. Obviously the air does need someplace to go, but vents of that sort can easily be left in the system. Unfortunately, my own system is not yet complete. I did collect over 2000 gallons and maintained that through the season -- draining it only just before our October snowfall! -- but that was with kludged connections to the downspout, relocated manually.
freemab222 3 months ago
Looks very nice!
Do you have something buoyant in the dirty water pipe to plug it when it's full?
KagarBeardtooth 1 year ago
@KagarBeardtooth
no the crud settles in it, and it leaks out slowly. works pretty well for most rains.
sunnyrasunny 3 months ago
Very very nice
SasyBecause 1 year ago
using a 2" rubber pipe with band clamps. they sell them at Lowes, I think called rubber union.
sunnyrasunny 2 years ago
how did u make connection to valve on tanks? thnkxs. nice job.
telemarker77 2 years ago