You problem with the Truck not running smoothly is the oxygen Sensor. A recommendation is change Sensor for ne if older than 40 K Miles. All a EiFi to the system.......
if you email me i will show you how to resolve your dilema in your next design, i will send you a drawing, i am working on somthing diffrent at present but i have spent 35 yrs in engineering and have a resonable mind, {advice} get a marker, and spend 90% of time looking at it and marking ideias, 3% time wiping marker off, 5 % time re drawing, and 2% building and drilling time. sit it by T.V, stair at it, think. LOL. it becomes easier...LOL. once drilled its hard to fill....lol... email me dude.
HI GUY nice job you done, just a comment or two, gas rises, you need holes at top of unit on plates to allow passage of gas, the holes you indicated near the bottom staggered as you say, would force water out of this location and it would be a gas reseviur, allowing sparks to be a possibbility, not nessisserily but still possible, keep holes to top, three holes in each plate, 1 hole exit for gas, but holes to top, no real need to stagger inner plate holes, N outer if .U. feel nessessery. ok.
I tried 1/16" and 1/8" gaps. For our booster, 1/16" was a problem. The gas would build up inside the cell, causing the water level to go down, and of course, the current as well. Using 1/8" solved the problem. Also, we use KOH now and that works really well... and we use 4 neutral plates between each charged plate.
To fix the issue with too much gas building up when using 1/16" gaskets, you could drill out a secondary exhaust port to relieve pressure and then run both exhaust hoses into the bubbler/reservoir.
According to Sid Young, who is now apparently working to one degree or another with EBN, 1/16" neophrene gaskets work quite well in a dry cell and amperage is kept within reasonable limits.
It's some kind of rubber gasket, it's 1/8in thick, made for this kind of application. I got them at a local True Value hardware store. They were in the section with the water filters, near the plumbing supply. They come in 1ft squares.
Right now I'm having trouble with there being too much resistance between the plates, even though my water is completely saturated with NaOH (drain cleaner, 100% lye, also from the True Value store). We are thinking that the gasket might be too thick.
For best results a gap of .050" to .065" works best you're at about twice that. You can get that gap to work but you need to get really high amps moving through your plates and that's hard to do with a single point of contact.
What about a gap size smaller than that? I bought some clear vinyl sheet from wal-mart, it looks like it's less than 1mm. Should make the resistance really small...
I don't think it is your gasket thickness I run 1/8" with great results. I would check the purity of your NaOH. And then check your power supplies, I had problems early on with my power supply and I switched to batteries and those problems went away. You can also try going to fewer cells by power lead placement on your plates and see what your results are then.
Fordenergy & SmartScarecrow, thank you both for you input. After reading SmartScarecrow's comments, I decided to put the holes in-line and try to use grommets like Fordenergy describes. Our grommets were too thick for our 1/8" plate gaps, so we tried to sand them down as much as possible. We still have them, but we will probably not use them, since they don't appear to fit well. We used a large drill bit to debur the edges of the holes, but hadn't realized it might help with the efficiency.
You can stagger the bottom hole side to side to overcome the grommet thickness. I had to do the same thing with my cell and it worked great. looking forward to seeing the final product.
I had current leakage with the 2 hole setup and mine were lined up top and bottom. I sealed the bottom holes with edms gromettes and the hole is now 1/8" I also beveled my top holes 30 deg from each side and that brought my efficency way up. Keep trying and let us know how you do.
here's a tip ... the current leakage is mostly at the INLET holes that are cut low ... there is very little leakage at the OUTLET holes that are cut high ... research the TERO RANTA design ... he used only one small hole high for both inlet and outlet ... was VERY efficient ... only reason I used upper/lower holes was to support pumping fluid at high volume ... otherwise, mine would be your basic run of the mill TERO knock off ... let us know how you do with it ...
I did try staggering inlet holes on one I did early last year but it did not seem to help the current leakage issue. What did work, was a slit piece of vinyl tubing inserted in the inlet holes. That worked pretty well.
If you must cut a lower hole for fluid leveling or whatever other purpose, make it a smallish hole no more than 1/4 inch, 1/8 inch is plenty. Again, only reason to go with holes as big as what I used is if you are going to pump mass amount of fluid through it ...
which way does the water passing through the cell travel?
MrRuzo214 6 months ago
You problem with the Truck not running smoothly is the oxygen Sensor. A recommendation is change Sensor for ne if older than 40 K Miles. All a EiFi to the system.......
MrGQuick 11 months ago
is there a way to make a dry/wet cell?
dohczc420 2 years ago
if you email me i will show you how to resolve your dilema in your next design, i will send you a drawing, i am working on somthing diffrent at present but i have spent 35 yrs in engineering and have a resonable mind, {advice} get a marker, and spend 90% of time looking at it and marking ideias, 3% time wiping marker off, 5 % time re drawing, and 2% building and drilling time. sit it by T.V, stair at it, think. LOL. it becomes easier...LOL. once drilled its hard to fill....lol... email me dude.
fuelban 2 years ago
HI GUY nice job you done, just a comment or two, gas rises, you need holes at top of unit on plates to allow passage of gas, the holes you indicated near the bottom staggered as you say, would force water out of this location and it would be a gas reseviur, allowing sparks to be a possibbility, not nessisserily but still possible, keep holes to top, three holes in each plate, 1 hole exit for gas, but holes to top, no real need to stagger inner plate holes, N outer if .U. feel nessessery. ok.
fuelban 2 years ago
I tried 1/16" and 1/8" gaps. For our booster, 1/16" was a problem. The gas would build up inside the cell, causing the water level to go down, and of course, the current as well. Using 1/8" solved the problem. Also, we use KOH now and that works really well... and we use 4 neutral plates between each charged plate.
renderrob 3 years ago
To fix the issue with too much gas building up when using 1/16" gaskets, you could drill out a secondary exhaust port to relieve pressure and then run both exhaust hoses into the bubbler/reservoir.
HHO4ALL 3 years ago
According to Sid Young, who is now apparently working to one degree or another with EBN, 1/16" neophrene gaskets work quite well in a dry cell and amperage is kept within reasonable limits.
Redox42 3 years ago
nice, u should kept the "handle" on the cutting board i think. :)
InventorGadget 3 years ago
lol
renderrob 3 years ago
Nicely built cell you have there..I'm in the process of building my first drycell ,Cant wait till its done ..
jdcmusicman 3 years ago
What are you using for gasket spacers.. and where did you get them??
gracetime 3 years ago
It's some kind of rubber gasket, it's 1/8in thick, made for this kind of application. I got them at a local True Value hardware store. They were in the section with the water filters, near the plumbing supply. They come in 1ft squares.
Right now I'm having trouble with there being too much resistance between the plates, even though my water is completely saturated with NaOH (drain cleaner, 100% lye, also from the True Value store). We are thinking that the gasket might be too thick.
renderrob 3 years ago
there is no sticker or brand name on the rubber squares. I would have to get the merchandise number for you. I will do that on my next visit.
renderrob 3 years ago
"64571" is all that they say on them, it's written in sharpie.
renderrob 3 years ago
RenderRob
For best results a gap of .050" to .065" works best you're at about twice that. You can get that gap to work but you need to get really high amps moving through your plates and that's hard to do with a single point of contact.
Good Luck and work safe
Hydroginist 3 years ago
What about a gap size smaller than that? I bought some clear vinyl sheet from wal-mart, it looks like it's less than 1mm. Should make the resistance really small...
renderrob 3 years ago
I don't think it is your gasket thickness I run 1/8" with great results. I would check the purity of your NaOH. And then check your power supplies, I had problems early on with my power supply and I switched to batteries and those problems went away. You can also try going to fewer cells by power lead placement on your plates and see what your results are then.
Fordenergy 3 years ago
or, you can try shower pan liner, @ HD.
pgpeachess 3 years ago
Fordenergy & SmartScarecrow, thank you both for you input. After reading SmartScarecrow's comments, I decided to put the holes in-line and try to use grommets like Fordenergy describes. Our grommets were too thick for our 1/8" plate gaps, so we tried to sand them down as much as possible. We still have them, but we will probably not use them, since they don't appear to fit well. We used a large drill bit to debur the edges of the holes, but hadn't realized it might help with the efficiency.
renderrob 3 years ago
I should also mention that we put two holes in each plate; one in the bottom corner, and one in the top corner.
renderrob 3 years ago
You can stagger the bottom hole side to side to overcome the grommet thickness. I had to do the same thing with my cell and it worked great. looking forward to seeing the final product.
Fordenergy 3 years ago
I will post a new video once the system is in the truck. Thanks again!
renderrob 3 years ago
I had current leakage with the 2 hole setup and mine were lined up top and bottom. I sealed the bottom holes with edms gromettes and the hole is now 1/8" I also beveled my top holes 30 deg from each side and that brought my efficency way up. Keep trying and let us know how you do.
Fordenergy 3 years ago
here's a tip ... the current leakage is mostly at the INLET holes that are cut low ... there is very little leakage at the OUTLET holes that are cut high ... research the TERO RANTA design ... he used only one small hole high for both inlet and outlet ... was VERY efficient ... only reason I used upper/lower holes was to support pumping fluid at high volume ... otherwise, mine would be your basic run of the mill TERO knock off ... let us know how you do with it ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago
I did try staggering inlet holes on one I did early last year but it did not seem to help the current leakage issue. What did work, was a slit piece of vinyl tubing inserted in the inlet holes. That worked pretty well.
If you must cut a lower hole for fluid leveling or whatever other purpose, make it a smallish hole no more than 1/4 inch, 1/8 inch is plenty. Again, only reason to go with holes as big as what I used is if you are going to pump mass amount of fluid through it ...
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago